I was looking at rear camber arms for my 3 a few months ago. I ended up getting the MPP arms after comparing all of those arms cause of the quality, look and ease of adjustment. I’m glad I did, I’ve been very happy with them. I wish this video had come out a few months ago, it would’ve helped make my decision quicker and easier.
Megan racing metal was not welded properly (not enough heat to penetrate the metal to create a weld, it was barely hanging on). I installed the arms about 40 days after I bought them. Didn't notice anything. Started doing the alignment the next day and noticed it's coming apart. Megan Racing said this after 30 days. There is no warranty. They didn't even bother to tell me not to drive the car.. Imagine if a customer hears, "we won't replace it under warranty" then they drive the car, the wheel locks up and they crash on a highway. It's insane not to warranty the part because of improperly welding, but it's even more crazier to not mention a single thing about do not drive the car for safety reason. I'm surprised this company is in business.
We will not be selling Megan parts. Only took a chance on this because people cringed at spending $395 on legit camber arms when their lowering springs were only $350. Well, lesson learned. You get what you pay for.
@@zevcentric I bought the MPP. 1 week later it broke in half. I emailed you just now with photos. I can't post links on RU-vid. "You get what you pay for" is...largely false. Price and quality frequently have only a loose correlation in the modern manufacturing world. Rather, it's a balance between cost, quality, and time/service.
We installed Megans on over 20 vehicles and MPP's on probably over 1000 model 3's/y's. I can only tell you the Megans were absolutely horrible due to them failing that it's not even a comparison. In this case you get what you pay for. I never had a problem with MPP but 100% of the Megan arms failed on customer vehicles that we pulled them off the website entirely. Did you watch the video? The quality of the MPP sealed spherical bearing and the other materials used is on a whole different level. You can't compare a $150.00 steel part to a billet piece of art like the MPP arm that's made in Canada.
I have a set slightly used we can offer you as well as a new set. They use jam nuts and spherical bearings that aren’t sealed. MPP is still the easiest to adjust and have a quiet bearing for the long haul.
@@zevcentric I'm in TN. What arms do you recommend for longevity, comfort and easy adjustment? I'm ok with the more expensive ones, I rather buy once. I don't want to take the wheels off if I don't have to. Some alignment shops will give push back on that.
@@reviewsandstuff4447 please email us and we'll link you to recommendations on our website. LMK what all you are looking to purchase so I can package things together. I know you've asked for advice on several items. It's best we see the whole picture to build a cohesive plan.
@@zevcentric In this video, this appears to only be the upper rear camber arm, so do you adjust the front upper arm as well? In theory, you cannot adjust the rear camber properly without adjusting the rear upper front arm?
@@TweakedGSX that is correct. This is rear camber arm which is centrally located on the knuckle. Replacing the other rear arms isn’t needed for that reason. Plenty of factory toe adjustment. I think you are referring to the toe arm. The front upper control arm doesn’t have much camber gain when lowering a model 3 or Y so isn’t “required” to reduce uneven tire wear.
@@IDontGetGassed my guess is lack of inventory and support? Redwood also operates as Sakebomb tuning RX7, S2K’s etc. their Redwood brand is a side gig with what seems like minimal focus.
The redwood arm is not a sealed spherical end like these other ones. It has its merit but I would say Redwood and SPL would be a better comparison tbh. @@IDontGetGassed
sorry I didn't see this. I think Redwood and SPL are a better comparison since they both share similar bearings. One of them uses jam nuts while the other uses pinch bolts and clamps.
The arm is aluminum and the tie rod is stainless. They already put anti seize on the treads but you will want to make sure you put more each season to prevent them from getting stuck due to mineral deposits that can cause surface rust.
Still uses a jam nut but they use high quality bearings. Biggest difference is that the bearings are not sealed and need to make sure if the adjustment rod is nickel plated that it doesn't develop surface rust if you're in salty or snowy climates. The arms are beautiful though. Those are the only things to take into consideration.
