Today we test fit the chassis & body | VW Beetle Restoration This 1965 Beetle was forgotten in a field in South Georgia for 40 years. Let's bring it back to life. ctmoog
كل شيئ بالعمل والجد والمثابرة رائع مثل هذا العمل. يقول الله سبحانه وتعالى "اعملوا فسيرى الله عملكم ورسوله والمؤمنون" وفقكم الله واصلوا هذا مهم جدا تحياتي من مدينة الحسيمة المغرب
I seen a lot of people use contact cement to tack down the rubber seal to the floor plan before putting the body on. Though it is an extra step, and it takes a day or so for the contact cement to set in, it seems to work for many out there. You did an excellent job with this bug.
Glad You popped up as I am in a similar project . ( funny how that happens) Just recently rejoined the body and chassis on My 69 vert . Thought it went pretty well until I put the doors back on. Had to do some adjusting on the mounts but finally got it. Just part of process I guess. These convertibles are flex sensitive. Any way,have fun! 👍👍🇺🇸
All is looking so good CT ! I like that off white /beige painting so much ! The side bars in beige looks elegant 👍 The only thing I 'd like is sanding the tank, because all looks so nice and clean inside But this is my persnal impression .
I don't know if you have given any thought to the finish for the car yet, but if you have not and plan to keep the patina on the car, a product I have seen used on a few other channels is something called pappy's patina, its a wipe on clear that protects the original finish. Another one comes from vice grip garage called shine juice. Looking great and glad to see it all coming together!
Great job CT, tank is very clean inside, to preserve, you should clean up and spray externally. Can’t wait to see the fender headlight replaced and repaired. Good work keep going and don’t be too mean with the paint !
Well watching you work gives me the motivation to continue ... I just got a 1966 VW Beetle myself yesterday Nov 4/23 I took all the interior out, engine does not turns on and it has not been driven for 5 years, a customer of mine even gave me an engine with lots of extra parts, so this is going to be an experience cause I'm a tool man and not an active mechanic nor a body man as well. I'm almost retired and at 66 years young doing all this work together with my son it's going to be an adventure. Today I pressured washed the whole bug, inside and out and to my surprise the whole floor has been "Cannibalized" with just a plain thick metal floor so yes lots of rust and wrong welds all over on both sides, it's a big, big mess ... But hopefully I'll get it done , slowly and learning daily as I progress. Thanks for your videos and hoping to continue following and learning from experts on VW Beetle's Regards
I would clean up the fuel tank. Unless you can coat the rust to stop it from progressing any farther. I have a 1970 red convertible that needs some work but it runs great. Thanks for all your hard work.
Looks great CT. The height seems a bit excessive. Did you replace the spring plates in the front end and the torsion bars in the rear? I noticed when you put the rubber body mounts on the front end the lower mounts were perpendicular to the opening. That might prohibit the front end from sitting flat, which will affect the height and even how the doors sit. Also, is there any play in the front end if you bounce on the front suspension? Any give? Might be worth exploring if the trailing arms don’t move when you bounce on them. With the engine in the car it will be a little lower in back… but it seems just a bit high. Maybe it will settle with the body back on? Regardless just awesome.
Since you know about suspension, can I put Gas A just shocks for better support because weight on the rear and also witch shock should I put on front to ride nice and work well with whati I got a complete oem suspension.
On your gas tank, I'd put rubber(weather stripping) around the edges of your tank to keep it from squeaking. And replace all rubber (if you can). And you should coat the bottom of it because of all 5he weather it's going to be put through.
Looks good just like that. I’d be tempted to buff out what’s left of the paint and rub some boiled Lin seed oil or some other similar stuff into the rusted areas. Mike FN probably knows the best approach. Fun car
Loving this build. Coming along really nice. I would paint the dash and make the interior look perfect while maintaining the exterior patina. I’ve seen a few like that and personally they look really cool.
I love these videos, I'm rebuilding a 74 bug of my own and these videos are a tone of help... you should test that sending units float seeing as it's plastic and could have holes from age and the continuity of the sender to see if it's sending a signal...
Looking and lining up fantastically! All your hard work in aligning things carefully has paid off. I hope you didn’t forget the two rubber bushings for the body on the rear shock towers. West Coast Metric has all the rubber doodads for good prices and great quality. Re the height it will settle lower once you install the motor and drive it a bit. I would keep the ride stock and the original wheels and hubcaps to stay with the patina theme. You can find a new headlight bucket just like the Duckman installed on a Super Beetle.
It's come a long way! Looking good. At this point I'd be really tempted to do the rest of the body work and paint it rather than leaving the patina. I might even go so far as to make a Herbie.
Man she’s looking good CT.! I can believe how great that gas tank looks inside! I would say lower the front a few more inches. And boy she’s gonna look sweet!👌🥰👍 lol 😂 by the way! I was browsing on the video through your garage! And I noticed on top of that steel locker you have a 50-60s Nylint Michigan crane! I have one exactly like yours in my garage shelf!👌😂👍
It's almost looking like a car! Well done. So much progress has been made since the days of Rusty. 👍 While I'm not expert, I did learn to drive in an old Beetle, and I'm pretty sure the chassis is sitting up way too high. IIRC they had around 2" clearance to the fender, maybe a bit more.
Hey mate you're doing so well, you should be so pleased with yourself. Well done! 1.You asked about the front - it is quite high at the moment, but will settle down when you get things like the tank fitted. Get the car going first and then thing about lowering it further. Isn't your front beam adjustable? 2.Yes there's a lot of play in the steering, it may need a new steering box. 3. In my humble personal opinion the perfect new running boards look quite odd next to the rusty patina panels. It's your car to play with, but I'd think about dirtying up that shiny chrome strip if it were mine. Likewise the fuel tank - a good coat of something like Hammerite on the bottom will protect it (nobody can see it anyway), and as for the top - inside your trunk is all new and painted, so I think a dirty old fuel tank would look wrong. If it were me, I'd give it a good sanding down to clean and smooth it then paint it satin black. 4. There's a big rectangular gasket to go between the fuel tank and the body. 5. You can get a headlight bowl (bucket?) as a separate item, new. Just weld it into your old fender.
Memang sudah cantik sangat. Yang ada karat tu memang boleh di kikis dengan kertas pasir. Jika sudah tiada yang tidak rata boleh sahaja tutup dengan semen kereta. Tapi, saya nampak sudah cantik sangat. Bagus benar tukang membena semula kereta ini
I really like the almond color. You should let go of the patina and rattle can it in almond. The almond color looks very good next to the running board.
Before you take the body off, you might do the work to the doors and fenders to get a better match body and paint. I think you have something to be proud of and think it would be cool to drive it to the up coming car show.
I don't know why you would leave the bottom of the fuel tank rusty even if you want to keep the patina look on the parts you can see. The bottom of the tank will not be visible and it would be only sensible to rustproof and paint it to retard further deterioration and potential leaks.
Looks great. Excellent series too. Wouldn't it be best to treat the rust on the gas tank exterior with rust stabilizer at the very least? Maybe coat the bottom with Por15 or the like and coat the interior too?
Hi those nails look like carpet tacks to me. Yes looks great way to go keep it up . A magician could not have done their tricks any better than U did good job . If U want to leave the tank rusty try and sea if their is a clear rust protective spray so that it does not get any more rust , it's looking good . Latter
Looking good CT. The front and rear will settle a bit once everything is in the car and you start moving it around. get everything in the car before you start adjusting the height.
Last one I did we used windshield sealant to glue the seal onto the chassis in the right shape and place. You can also use a loop of dental floss though the hole in the seal lift it a tiny bit the pull on the floss to move the seal at each bolt hole until it lines up.
I wasn't expecting to wake up to Christmas morning, that thumb nail should pull in 10,000 views, Merry Christmas🎄and here's your gift Matt Armstrong 911 GT3🎁almost a quarter million views, good job.
That restoration is surely going great! The front and rear suspension seem to be too high though. There should be a space of, at least, a couple inches between the fenders and the wheels. That's my experience with my 1970 bug, at least. However, after changing that steering box, fitting the gas tank and checking the shock absorbers, you can give it a look again and adjust the front suspension, if necessary. Way to go!
weather stripping could be seam sealed (glued) in place on frame first or fastened with self-tapping screws with thin flat washers. So many ways to do place prior to joining to body.
Being that's a gas tank, I would knock off as much rust as you can then put rust converter over that tank. Was me, I would at least put primer paint on it after doing the rust converter. It's a gas tank and any leaks could be hazardous being it flammable.
While you had the tub suspended above the floor pan lining up the rubber seal i had a thought. How the hell would do that with out a crane ? Stick the seal to the floor pan or body first ? . Hey the beetle is coming along so good.
If you're certain that the steering play is not attributable to any other worn components, the steering box itself has adjustment screws to take up slack between the wormgear and roller etc.: "If none of the above faults are found, check and, if necessary, adjust the steering gearbox in the following sequence: The play between the worm and the roller; The axial play of the worm spindle; The axial play of the roller." You can find instructions online.
It looks good coming together I wish I had a shop like that I had to do everything outside. Plus I was I had to have a emergency operation and I let this so called body man paint it and I never seen more runs and orange peel in my life. I could have given my son the gun to paint and he would have done a better Job. Question I have for you is when you get the mortor in can you show how to change the aliment of the rear end. Mine are sticking in like your just more. When I got the bug it was good but once I removed everything and he put it back on the frame he had changed the engine out and when he did he pulled the rear axle off. So either he had to mess it up. I would be scared to take it on the road. I have to put a new harness in as well. But can you show how to align the rear wheels so there correct. Keep up the good work. I am always watching what you do.
