Test Webasto Thermo top C, Z, Z/C Diesel Petrol Fuel burning parking heater testing and diagnostics. 

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uFjV6FST8Hw.html

+Karl Allitt Excellent Karl - Glad it's working well and you found my video and info useful.

Hi John. The pump isn't self priming and will need a little help, but once it's working it should be obvious that it has good flow. The fuel side, have you also installed the dosing pump (what you can hear clicking in the video) and primed that too? If the glowplug/flame detector doesn't get to a certain temperature within a set period of time then the unit will shut down and go in to lockout mode. You'll need to use the Webasto diagnostic software to unlock the unit again. The software also allows you to prime the water pump and the fuel pump too by running them independently of the rest of the unit itself.

mitchellmoxo Hi Mitchel. If you search for one from a Rover 75/MG ZT CDTi, Freelander 1 diesel, BMW E46/E39 diesel then those are the ones off the top of my head that will run independent of the canbus signal from the vehicle ECU. You'll need the Thermotop C/Z parking heater (as opposed to pre heater) as these ones have the built in pump to circulate the hot water.

Paul Simon great thanks I have brought one from a rover 75 so hopefully it will be ok! Thanks

mitchellmoxo Not a problem. The one I used is from a 75. Any issues then drop me a DM.

Hi Paul, I've saw your videos, thank you for share your knowledge! Do you remember some other newer models that doesn't require the car ECU? I've found some rover 75, but didn't look fine. I have a Ford transit RV, and I'm trying to use it with a heat exchanger to get hot water, I've bought a thermo top evo from a Passat B8 but couldn't make it work, I think that maybe need to purchase the T91 remote control, but I want to play safe. Thanks!! Luis

Off the top of my head, I can't remember which other versions will work without the CAN signal from the car. There is an aftermarket PCB available for the Thermotop that replaces the original one and allows you to use it without the car ECU - I found it on eBay after a quick search: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aftermarket-controller-ECU-for-Webasto-Thermo-Top-Z-C-E-PETROL-/161936241617

typically 0,6L/hour

Matthew Helliwell That is a car heater. I think it is not the best device for your business.

+Karl Allitt Hi Karl. The wires connect as follows. You only need 4 wires from the Webasto to make it run as just providing power to the 2 pin plug will not show anything (Even though the control unit will have powered up internally) 2 pin plug - Red and Black: +12v (Red or Purple to Pin 1) and ground (Black or Brown to Pin 2) - Connect these to the battery via a fused supply. Ensure the wire you use is heavy enough to support the current required to start and run the heater otherwise it will lose voltage and the heater will go in to failure mode. 6 pin plug - As follows: Pin 1 - Start/Run - Connect to a 12 volt supply to start and run the unit. It will run whenever there is 12 volts at this pin. Pin 2 - Diagnostic via K-Bus interface (do NOT put 12 volts to this wire as it may damage the Webasto control ECU) Pin 3 - Optional outside temperature sensor (Not required to run the heater) Pin 4 - 12 volt Output to switch on cabin heater van via a relay (Not required to run the heater) Pin 5 - Not used - Goes to optional accessory (Not required to run the heater) Pin 6 - Positive output to dosing pump (Connect to the pump and then the other wire from the pump to ground) So in summary. To run the heater you only need to connect the feed to the 2 pin plug, 12 volts to pin 1 on the 6 pin plug and then connect pin 6 to the dosing pump (This provides a 12 volt supply to the pump at a frequency of up to 5Hz and will make the pump turn on and off up to 5 times a second depending on required fuel input). If you are having trouble with the heater, you can download the Webasto Thermotest software from the Webasto website. Connect pin 2 of the 6 pin plug to any good quality K-line diagnostic interface and then you will be able to read any faults stored and clear them too and check the unit for functionality. Hope that helps!

What exactly did you repair on them mate? And where did you manage to get an aftermarket control board from?

Yes they can I have one running my swimming pool

@@madmax_ro There were some bad resistors under the vibration absorbing adhesive that fixes the capacitors to the PCB. The adhesive was slightly corrosive, apparently, and corroded the solder on the tiny surface mount resistors. I got an aftermarket one on ebay.

@@gerryr1893 I'm not sure why my reply doesn't show up. But did you use one from a BMW? Because other heaters from other car manufacturers have different software. As far as I understand, the VW/Audi ones can be triggered like that, but the BMW ones cannot, at least without being connected to the car's CANbus. They can't even be triggered with the Webasto software. Trust me, I've gone through about 6 of these. They all give the same error (something about OE network communication error, or something). Also, unless you have extremely expensive electricity or extremely cheap diesel, heating a swimming pool with diesel will always be significantly more expensive. These heaters are only about 60% efficient to make matters worse.

@@NickDittes any chance of sending me more information on anything you experienced so far? Thank you for your answer!

Auto skonto

simplicity946 On average it uses about 1 to 2 litres a day as once up to temperature, the burn rate is throttled back. Webasto consumption figures in the handbook says something along the lines of 1 litre an hour. The installation I have it in now (See my other videos) uses it as a heater for my garage/workshop and it is controlled via a simple wall mounted thermostat - very much like your household central heating systems.

I can confirm 1-2 liters of diesel for VW Van T5. If the inside is up to temperature, it throttles back. Half the energy is consumed for heating up first half hour or so, other half is consumed for keeping the temperature ~23C for the day. It throttles back significantly.

It seems to be a 900 L/hr inline pump which can circulate coolant (or just water) in/out of a bucket. In a more engineered environment one would close the system and use an expansion vessel (also from a car) to prevent any dangerous pressure buildup due to water expanding when heated. The expansion vessel can also be used to fill the system. It looks like the pump (to a certain extant - drawing water from 2 floors down would pose a challenge a suppose) is self priming as well...

No pump sucks also

+Andrew Polson With the air filter unit on it's a lot quieter. The Thermotop Z/C is a common fitment on canal boats and such like too.

Have you made sure that the wiring you are using is thick enough? It needs to be a minimum of 2mm squared for each core for the power supply as the unit draws a lot of amps on start up for the glowplug. if that is all good, then here are the pinouts for each plug: 2 pin plug - Red and Black: +12v (Red or Purple to Pin 1) and ground (Black or Brown to Pin 2) - Connect these to the battery via a fused supply. Ensure the wire you use is heavy enough to support the current required to start and run the heater otherwise it will lose voltage and the heater will go in to failure mode. 6 pin plug - As follows: Pin 1 - Start/Run - Connect to a 12 volt supply to start and run the unit. It will run whenever there is 12 volts at this pin. Pin 2 - Diagnostic via K-Bus interface (do NOT put 12 volts to this wire as it may damage the Webasto control ECU) Pin 3 - Optional outside temperature sensor (Not required to run the heater) Pin 4 - 12 volt Output to switch on cabin heater van via a relay (Not required to run the heater) Pin 5 - Not used - Goes to optional accessory (Not required to run the heater) Pin 6 - Positive output to dosing pump (Connect to the pump and then the other wire from the pump to ground) So in summary. To run the heater you only need to connect the feed to the 2 pin plug, 12 volts to pin 1 on the 6 pin plug and then connect pin 6 to the dosing pump (This provides a 12 volt supply to the pump at a frequency of up to 5Hz and will make the pump turn on and off up to 5 times a second depending on required fuel input).

TNX for the answer. For connection I just twist the wires for testing. I though it will be enough. But nothing hapends. Here are some pics. I will make proper connection and try again. i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg231/mlisicak/diagnostic_zps8cfaqsam.jpg First I connect pin 3 on 6 pin connector to start, then I realised that is 1 pin.. i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg231/mlisicak/20160601_160057%201_zpsk1rmkpyp.jpg i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg231/mlisicak/webb2_zpspr4crwb7.jpg

You might have damaged the PCB control module by connecting the wrong wires. Might be worth while taking it to a specialist for testing.

Hi Paul,have you any contacts to repair PCB,s, thanks Tom.

All you need from the donor vehicle is the webasto heater (obviously ;) ), dosing pump and wiring plugs. Thankfully they work as "stand alone" units if you get a Z or C unit like I have.

Switching with a thermostat is easy as you are only controlling a 12v feed to the "start" wire. Have a look at my other webasto videos where I have installed one in my workshop for the central heating in there and use a cheap mechanical thermostat from Screwfix to control it.

I assume the dosing pump is the thing attached to the heater which makes the ticking noise ??

Sander that's correct. A lot of people forget to acquire that part when fitting these units to other things.

Hi Paul, does a webasto also do varying degrees of heat output ? And if so how can this be controlled ??

EUROREPAIRS Yes, but it requires different software on the controller and some mechanical changes inside it.

I adjusted mine by running the system up to temperature, then moving the CO adjustment slider in the software until the blower fan was running above 100% then moved it back until it was running at 98% under full load - This is how other people seem to set theirs and it worked for me with no excessive fuel consumption or thermal tripping.

Hi Davey. Sorry for the delayed reply, if you private message me your email address then I'll send you a link to the Webasto website to download it.

Hi Paul! Can you pls send me also the software or the link where I can get this software? :)