You're selling yourself short Mr Marion. Your videos are great. To the point. No flashy junk. That test applies to all trailers with electric brakes. Both my cube tailer and boat trailer have electric brakes. Thanks for the knowledge. Am gonna pick up one of those meters. Next videos suggestion. How to check your brakes and even change a wheel using blocking under one axle? No jack no problem. All you need is a few lengths of 2x6 or wider. Still think Ram should be sponsoring you. I bet you've sold a hundred Cummins 2500s. Adios from Canada.
Thanks again Marion for all the great information you bring our way. I have to share a brake experience of my own. This past week, I had all 4 brake assemblies replaced. The assemblies come as a complete unit, backing plates and all. For sure a nice way to go, "plug and play" so to speak... When I picked up the trailer, I quickly realized the trailer brakes were basically non existent. The RV shop could only think to now replace the drums as well to ensure the new shoes were making even contact. Well, coincidence would have it that while at the shop, they were moving the trailer with their truck and the brakes worked! What the heck I thought, something wrong with my 2016 Ram. Sure enough, the voltage to the trailer brakes was almost nothing (even at full gain). Then the light went off in my old worn out brain and I checked the onboard trailer settings. For whatever reason, the setting was changed to Heavy Electric/Hydraulic. Apparently, in that setting the output is very low, only enough to send a signal to the electric/hydraulic actuator mounted on a trailer with hydraulic disc brakes. So, once I changed it back to light electric, all is well again. All this to say, if you ever experience a similar situation, have a look at the settings first. Dave
So there's more to the story. Today my friend and I did some voltage checks at the trailer. All of these readings are at full gain, manual control. On my 2016 Ram, the voltage on "heavy electric" setting, we read 7.5v at the trailer. On "light electric" setting, we read 9.5v. Wow, more voltage on light setting than on heavy. Now we hook up to my friend's new GMC 3500, we read 13.5v! I'm thinking holy crap, something wrong with my truck. So I look around a little bit online and discover that the Ram applies reduced voltage at speeds less than 30mph. So now we hook up a set of wires from the trailer brake lead on the trailer to inside the cab so we can check with a meter while driving. It's true, the moment we got over 30mph the voltage increased to 12.5v! Never saw the 13.5 as we did on the GMC, but I guess that's the way it is. Absolutely craze... Dave
I delivered new travel trailers for a couple years and you'd be surprised how many come out of the factory unable to deliver adequate current to the brakes. Some builders will use too small wire and poor connectors to save a dollar per unit.
Note - this is a good way to test any trailer with electric brakes, 5th wheels, landscape trailer, horse trailer, car trailer, etc. Easy way to do it shown here, Thanks Mr. Blair.
Good idea to check this, Hope it never needs to get used but will be good to know it’s working if it is ever needed. Just checked mine. Each drawing about 3 amps. Can you show how your breakaway cable is routed. Mine was wrong. Woven through one of the chains, and is about a foot longer than the chain.
All good info keep it coming I'm on the coast in our trailer watching trailer tips from Marion. Looks like you need to put a plug in your brake adjustment slot.
I just got a replacement breakaway cable, the coiled type. It's interesting to me that there is little discussion about the proper length that it should be. It seems to me that the cable should be slightly shorter than the safety chains. If the trailer were to be disconnected from the truck (for whatever reason), I want those brakes to come on quickly. Not after the safety chains fail. Perhaps I'm wrong and there are different opinions about this. Dave
Marion, another good video. What is the maximum amperage rating of your meter? A very quick although inaccurate way to test brake magnets is with an inexpensive pocket compass. If brake application pulls the needle toward the hub, you at least know the magnets are getting power.
I watched you video and found it very helpful. However I noticed that the amp you switched the position from white, when you first started, then red, then back to white. Which do we use.
@@MarionBlair what if i plug it in from the house? Its sitting on the street next to my house...on a 5 degree slope😬...will it hold it in place better?
It doesn't look like this one is available since Sears closed down. It's a Craftsman. However, if I would get another one I'd get the Fluke. It's a little pricey but Fluke makes the best. There's probably a dozen others to pick from that aren't quiete as expensive. www.lowes.com/pd/Fluke-Fluke-302-400A-AC-TRUE-RMS-CLAMP-METER/5001438837?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-google-_-lia-_-106-_-electricaltoolsandtesters-_-5001438837-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=CjwKCAjwo4mIBhBsEiwAKgzXOFah407AOrTcD_vQy-drCleIu7TAgocAIJWNa00wWYIEBuBtp0g-hBoCoTMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
