TESTED | Best High Speed RC Ball Bearing Oils 

Those are some good ads for sure - thanks!

Thanks for the comments! I had considered a downhill rolling test, but didn't know how to make it repeatable.

Thanks for the nice words, and glad this was helpful. I'm the kind of person that just has to try things for myself to figure them out. Thanks again!

Thanks for the feedback!

Glad to help!!!

Unfortunately, I don't have this type of equipment. Results would be interesting for sure!

Thank you for the kind words!

Thanks! I really tried to not over oil the bearings. Most bearings only got 1-2 drops in them.

Great! Glad this was helpful!

Glad to help Pete! Thanks for the kind words!

Thank you very much!

Great tip!!! Thanks for sharing.

Nice! Thanks for the feedback!

Thank you!

Thanks for the insight!

Great! Thanks for the insight!

Awesome! Glad I could help!

Great idea - I really appreciate the thoughtful answer with truly a better solution! The bearings and oils have mostly been given away at this point. I could see doing this all over again though. Curious if any new oil or bearing technologies are "around the corner".

Ah great - thanks!

Thanks for the tip!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for the tips!

That sure sounds cool! I'll have to look it up.

Thanks! Yes - these were actually the same bearings, just all of the same type.

Oh my bad have you ever tried fast eddy bearings?

It was the tube the bearings came in.

Thank you!

Glad it was helpful!

Good idea! I like that. Obviously, you can see I was trying to find a consistent method for spinning.

Thanks!

Thanks! I would at least suggest starting with these!

Interesting! I would be curious what the results show!

@@RoadsideRC Hmm, maybe I’ll do a video on it cause I see no dirty rc bearing lube tests, I’m sure there’s some way that’s better than factory in making bearings last longer in dirt =)

@@travispratt6327 It’s simply not feasible to perform ‘dirty’ bearing tests, as you mentioned. This is because unless you start with a pure, unadulterated substance to use as your dirt (obviously actual dirt can’t be used as it would have enormous variation from one scoop to the next, having different proportions of clay, sand, soil, etc), get the exact identical amount which has been weighed on a digital scale measuring to 0.01g accuracy and mix the sand or whatever you use into the same amount of each lubricant you’re wanting to test. Then you have to figure out a way to mix all the oils with your dirt but so that each is as close to identically mixed as possible, somehow pack that crud into the bearing, put the seals back on and then start testing. Oh, did I forget to mention that you had also better brush up on your chemistry because some oils or their additives might react with your choice of dirt. If this occurs, that oil can not be included as you’ve changed it at a chemical/molecular level in some cases, depending upon how reactive the oil might be. As I’m sure you can now understand there are just SO many variables with the kind of testing you want that unless you have a huge budget to spend on your testing procedures, you just won’t be doing any form of scientifically sound tests. It’s not something for the faint-hearted, takes hours and hours, if not several days and is boring and laborious, especially if not being paid to do the testing.

@@aaronperelmuter8433 All I’d have to do is simply use the bearings and run enough tests to have a big enough sample size to be able to draw conclusions that certain lubricants generally last longer. The variables don’t matter as long as the sample size is large enough with the same varying terrain. I’d also not want to remove any contaminants that may interact, or limit the dirt to only one kind of dirt, these wouldn’t give real world conclusions.

@@aaronperelmuter8433 That said, it would probably take a minimum of 10 rounds of running the bearings till they failed for each lubricant to even get a semi-accurate result, and is too much time and effort for me.

Thanks for sharing! Maybe I will pick some up.

Thank you!

Thanks for sharing!

@@RoadsideRC you can visit SKF store ask them for the big book of bearing it includes everything about bearings (engineers point of view)

I'll have to check it out!

TriFlow was huge in the early 2000's when I was flying nitro helis. Good product and I still have it laying around.

These oils would not be good for gears.

@@RoadsideRC thank you for saving my stupid ass from ruining a new tt02 diff.

Great question. I don't have a way to test just the bearing itself. Note - I did notice that just cleaning them itself was a HUGE improvement. However, using the right oil did help. Can you build a test rig with your roller coasters and do a similar test to what I did? How far the coaster goes with each oil? Something like that.

@@RoadsideRC yh I might try some tests. how ever I need to buy a good amount of bearings first, the coaster cars we use have 12 bearing for just the front car, then 6 on eatch car after it. so I would have to test sets of 12 bearings all at once, so testing 5 types would mean preparing about 60 bearings lol

Hmm. Good question. None of them had enough play for me to notice.

All of these were roughly the same price. Yes, I assume they would be good in fishing rod bearings. There was no warning against water use.

Thank you! Trying to provide some value!

That is wild! No bearings ever last that long!

Thanks!

Glad it was helpful!

@@RoadsideRC like the way you did with results that mad sense

Sorry, I did not test cleaning specifically.

@@RoadsideRC did you use a shock mineral oil to clean them? Does it matter which kind? I‘d like to order some but there are different numbered mineral shock oils so wanted to ask first.

@@muaythai193 I used a generic mineral oil from the hardware store for cleaning. Nothing special.

@@RoadsideRC Thanks! Crazy that when I asked around nobody cleans new bearings. One thing that could’ve been done in the test is have uncleaned bearings oiled as a comparison to cleaned oiled ones.

Sorry - a different usage for sure!

You might be right, and I did think about that. I picked the ProTek bearings, as they are supposed to be high quality. Even with that, there was still some noticeable variation between the bearings in the pack. That is also why I calculated the difference between cleaned and oiled for each bearing. My concern with using the same one repeatedly was any change induced by "wearing-in" the bearings that folks refer to. I guess doing A-B-A testing would help eliminate that some.

@@RoadsideRC breaking in bearing require the bearing to put under load. Free Wheeling shouldn't have enough load as its only carrying a wheel. Plus you do have lube in it which will lesson any type of wear.

I wanted to do that, but didn't know HOW to do it.

@@RoadsideRCI hear you. Neither do I. 😢

I didn't do anything specific for balancing

I did not, as I had not seen many folks suggesting it. Do you use it?

@@RoadsideRC I use it all the time, for many uses. It works well as a cleaner AND lubricant.

It is the best way I could come up with. What would you suggest?

@@RoadsideRC that is more complicated. Like liberty oil was made for clocks for example. How well the oils do against dirt and water. How good are they to protect against rust? How long before the oil just flushes out? What good if after a few packs the bearings are just dry and locked up?

Do you have any suggestions for testing? I recognized all of those questions, but only have so many resources available to me. This is what I could create in my garage. I'm happy to hear suggestions of how to test it better.

Thank you!

I almost tested it alongside these!!

That seems much thicker - have you had good results from it?

Thanks for the tip!

@@RoadsideRC its not a tip im not even sure if its good lol

@@RoadsideRC but it works good for me

Ha! Only one way to find out!

@@RoadsideRC Actually, there are several ways to find out. The most glaringly obvious of them is the simple fact that _every_ oil you used had very similar viscosities, and none are anything like as horribly viscous as is car engine oil - regardless of its rating and/or brand. Car engines have to perform under incredibly punishing conditions, hence why they need to start out so thick and viscous, so that by the end of the 10,000 or 15,000 or 20,000 miles when it’s due to be replaced, it still retains some ability to prevent metal on metal contact, even though by then it will have been heavily watered down, taken on loads of metallic particles and shavings, absorbed various acids and carbon and soot from the combustion process and so on. Don’t use car engine oils in your rc bearings, it’s a terrible idea and you’d be better off leaving the original grease that they’re sold with. Essentially, engine oil is half way to being a grease especially when compared to the very thin, low viscosity rc bearing oils. After all, grease is nothing more than oil with a thickening additive, very often either lithium or molybdenum.

Lấy làm tiếc. Google dịch không hiểu.

I'm all ears as to how I did it wrong!

Thanks for the feedback!

🤣 Come on man. It's a youtube video. Not a scientific paper submitted to some RC Car Journal. You're taking this wayyyyyyy past logical at this point. What's the point in being so critical of a youtube vid that's already meaningless? 🤣🤣🤣🤣 #CalmDownBuddy Not reading #AllThatCrapByU, either. Talk about a wall of text. Try hitting enter twice after every few sentences. It makes what you write much easier to read and you don't come off as someone with the writing ability of an 8 yr old.

@@J.C... True, I guess I just wanted to share my experience. 😃

@@J.C... True, I guess I just wanted to share my experience. 😃