I have one of these but never dared to use it for more than facemilling large pieces. Those DOCs are pretty crazy, thanks for trying so that I don't have to x)
Nice tool, I just bought one for my round column Mill/drill. At $35 for the tool and shank, you really can't complain. One thing to keep in mind if you are buying one of these with an R8 shank, the drawbar threads come in several flavors. I use a 7/16th drawbar and a 10mm one for some shanks. I bought one of these shell mills and didn't notice that it came with a 12mm drawbar thread. PITA, now I need 3 different drawbars. It turns out that it's cheaper to buy a new shank (the right size) than it is to buy a new drawbar. Live and learn.
I ran into this problem a few times also but I just made my own draw bar whenever i needed . Its so easy to make a draw bar I couldn't imagine waisting the time or money to order one .
I have a similar one, that I use pretty much just for cleaning up rough stock. Get the mill scale and chewy rust off things, taking advantage of the chinesium inserts rather than abuse my good tooling 😀
Welcome to the world of indexibles! It is a world apart from using endmills but keep up the effort man. After watching the video I wanted to give you some info in case it helps. -For a small mill like you are working with, Ive found its best to keep the radial engagement high (70%-90%) and the DoC low.. maybe start at .025" having more than one insert in the cut at once helps smooth out vibration and increasing the amount of time in the cut also improves insert life. -SFM. you should be between 500 and 700 SFM on aluminum which would put you around 1000-1300 RPM for that cutter. When you spin too fast, the amount of heat you generate in creating the chip leads it to melt a little, even with coolant. melty aluminum sops up spindle torque and leaves awful surface finish. -Looking at the purplish hue of the inserts, they appear to be coated, maybe TiAlN.. if so, you may be working against yourself. TiAlN is great in steel but since aluminum is a large component of TiAlN coating, aluminum chips tend to weld to the aluminum in the coating. Alumium specific inserts would be ideal but ive had great luck with TiN coated inserts that I've honed to a sharp edge with a diamond stone. Hope this helps.
I really have nothing useful to say but it’s Friday and I can’t seem to shut up. 😁 This is why I sent my small mill down the road quite awhile ago. It had no balls. I bought a 3hp Comet run on a Huanyang VFD and never looked back. Don’t get me wrong, the little mill served its purpose, but I got tired of it bogging down on even medium cuts. In the long run the full size Comet wasn’t much more money.
Honestly I don't have a cnc machine, just a grizzly lathe & a drill press. Lol we've all used those inexpensive eBay finds to help us get the job done. I work mostly in peak, delrin & some acrylic, there's been many a time where I've used those endmill bits in my lathe or lathe lol.
If you are going to cut that aggressive you should be using an end mill holder instead of that 3/4 collect and more HP. I have one those facemills and it works great.
In "real" (not home-gamer) machining, facemills like this are used all the time for roughing shapes with the side of the cutter. You can only step down the length of the insert, but they are very effective at removing a lot of material quickly. You could do this on a hobby-size mill, but you need more HP/rigidity than his machine has.
This demonstration had me upset ...to test the capabilities by useing it as an endmill eh, but i couldn't stop watching it preform. Then the comment its about feeling like a badass..all worth it 👍👍 ,Subscribed
Check out ZCC for CHICOM carbide. They're cheap, not the cheapest, and they're good, not the best. I know some real, full-time machine shops, customers of mine, that use ZCC inserts almost exclusively because they've taken the time to figure out how to run them and get at least half as much life out of them as other inserts that cost twice as much or more. Not all, not even many, but some. There's a rumor, and I absolutely have no idea whether true or not, that ZCC operates in a former Sandvik facility. Story goes that Sandvik decided to build a new facility elsewhere and Chinese interests bought the old facility and hired up as many of the workers as they could. Again, not saying this is true, nor am I suggesting that, if true, it's up to the quality of Sandvik.
Just found you and loving the channel! You got yourself a new subscriber :) I'm a fellow creator myself and would love to do a joint live stream just talking reselling!
Grizzly G0704 claims 1 hp/ DC motor but what I've seen here this machine delivers 1/3 HP at the spindle. And you're playing with cold rolled steel. I think if the metal was any grade stainless the 704 would be a painfully wrong choice to buy for my first mill.
Just a thought, could you help us beginners by comparing the low cost cutter with the same cutter in top performing "pro" grade? I'm just starting to invest in machine shop equipment and tooling, and I need quality results for prototyping my inventions drifting about in well worn gray matter. I don't have deep dollars, but if there is a substantial performance increase for a top pro tool then I'm inclined to dig deep and not waste resources on Ebay cheesy. I've watch a few of your vids and think we probably were sprouted from the same pea pod. THANKS YOU, YOU'VE BEEN A GREAT ISPERRATION FOR ME TO GO FORTH AND BIULD MY CRAZY IDEAS. Every Bud in my circle thinks I'm wasting my money...money my inheritors should have to buy more beer.....LOL, but true, sort'of.
you need way more rpm, you need to spin it like crazy, I use 3500rpm on a 63mm face mill , on a 50mm face mill you need way more than that, low rpm means it does not cut that well and instead of cutting the material away it pushes the material which puts a lot of force on the cutter and the machine
Also not true, your RPM is in relation to your feed rate and ultimately depth per tooth. You want lower RPM for a smaller motor, not higher. With that RPM and feed rate, the cutter doesn't even have a chance to bite into the material, all it does is heat it up.
I would not recommend using any sort of coolant when working with carbide insert tooling. It can create stress in the insert that may Lead to decreased life of the tool
