Might I say Eric O you are one heck of a mechanic! That's a dying breed, to find someone to do the magic you do. I wish I didn't live such a distance from your business. I've only been subscribed about a week, like what I see. I also subscribed to your other channel as well.
Great to see you test that. Most people just replace the sensor without testing it. I had one mini van I worked on a while back. The motor mount was broken and it pulled on the wires breaking one wire inside of the insulation causing that heater circuit code.
Cool vid. I just worked on a case today '13 Genesis Coupe with same code. Did same test. Turned out Ecm went bad. Did not control heater properly. Thanks Eric O. for all the good tips and videos.
Eric the tips you provide a great and the videos are even better. I am a 20 year mechanic w/Toyota but I watch the videos on all makes and models because your explanations on the theory and operation are thorough and folks can understand the process we go through each day. I even have new trainees look at some of them because seeing is believing and you do a great job. Keep up the good work and best wishes from down south a bit in Maryland.
Now that I've gotten my Quick Tip Tuesday on a Monday, what am I going to do the rest of the week? There's nothing to look forward to! Oh, the humanity! (Thanks, Mr. O!)
Nice job, I have only one problem, your links for tools dont have the proper items in the description. Outstanding thou. Keep up the awesome work you do! God Bless
I usually check the heater circuit with a volt meter but i like the light it's a good idea...apparently it is possible to teach an old dog new tricks...lol
Super!! The Vantage Pro is a super tool. I was looking at my comm lines on my 06 Frontier with my old Vantage 2400 If it was good enough for Keith for three years, its good enough for me.
The next AFR you get with a good heater, but failed output, could you do a video with the Autel & Pico, so we get an idea about current output & how to test AFR's
Thanks for the tip. Not sure what vehicle you are working on (assume a Toyota) so my question is - “Is the P1135 code indicating an Air Fuel Sensor heater circuit response fault common to all vehicles, or just toToyotas and their ilk?” I ask because on Fords and Lincolns, for example, this code is for an intermittent fault on Pedal Position Sensor Circuit A, while on some others this code is for a “fuel timing servo malfunction.” Inquiring minds want to know what you know. Thanks again for this tip and for the practical demonstration of the usefulness of the test lights you showed us how to make last week.
Thanks for the tip Eric. Question about the Vantage. Do you like it because it's faster? Only asking because I have a Verus Edge but I find the vantage handy if just doing electrical.
My Verus just sits collecting dust. It is the biggest waste of money a shop can spend. I do like the Vantage because of the size and of course my Pico :)
South Main Auto Repair well that's a bummer. Guess I'll have to wait until it craps out. It was an expensive piece but I think it was before I knew what a Pico scope was. Had I known then what I know now I would have a solus/some other reputable scan tool and a Pico. I' still a novice with a scope/multi meter but I can test charging systems pretty well now thanks to you.
Hey Eric thanks so much for this video,wonderful job! I wanted to ask you about my own Toyota Camry it's in need of its timing belt and I purchased the Dayco timing belt and water pump kit. I know from other videos you've mentioned that this isn't the best kit to get and you've recommended the Aisin brand kit. I'm unable to return the Dayco kit so the question is do you recommend using any of the components at all? I'd like to change the timing belt at the very least. do you recommend switching out the original water pump for the Dayco pump or just do the timing belt? what's your recommendation if all I have is the Dayco kit. Thanks
Great video. Hey, I am retired and going to look into getting a project antique tractor to fiddle with. If you were going to replace your model H, what would you be looking for? Thanks.
that rock and roll playing in the background could hear a word you said you head bangin mechanic AFR should be call AFRT in this case if you get me meaning.
you have been using the Autel alot recently. any reason why? knowing what you do with yrs of experience, what would be your scan tool if you could only afford one?
I'm not familiar with the AFR circuit name? I know cars have oxygen sensors to regulate the fuel air ratio. Why did the test light go out when the engine was raised off idle again?
AFR is fancy for O2 (Air fuel ratio sensor) or wide-band O2 and some call them. The light went out because there was no longer a need for the heater to be on OR the ECU recognized the wrong resistance value (my light) and turned it off :)
Hey Mr. O, couldn't find out how to message you. Got a question. Can I troubleshoot missfires using O2 readings? I'm using torque pro and an Elm32 as I didn't have a fancy scan tool yet, and my '99 GMC Sonoma has been missfiring. No codes yet but the missfire is noticible, engine shakes and so does my stick, you can hear it missfire sometimes also. O2 data shows voltage drop spikes in primary O2 voltage on and off idle, sometimes almost down to 0v. I'd send you a screenshot of the data, bit again, can't find out how to message you. If I'm correct, I think I have a clogged or bad fuel injector. Engine vin is 4 if that helps any. Thanks!
To get the best idea how a misfire affects fuel trims and O2's try this. When the car is running good, unhook a plug wire and watch your o2's. Tell me what you see. Then when it is running good and unhook an injector, then tell me what you see on ft's and O2's. I think you will find and misfire will send an O2 near zero if there is no combustion. It is a good experiment I think you should try. There is a lot to be learned from it. Long story short though I would not feel comfortable making a call on a misfire based on O2 readings alone...
South Main Auto Repair I'll give that a try. But if I understand the operation of O2 sensors correctly, a lack of spark, or rather, a missfire caused by a bad coil pack, would give a high voltage spike due to unburnt fuel generating voltage on an O2 sensor. And a missfire caused by a plugged or faulty injector would cause the O2 sensor to read low voltage due to all air and no or too little fuel hitting the O2 sensor creating little to no voltage. But is this correct, and is it reliable? I guess we'll find out the next day or two. I'd replace all injectors as part of preventative maintenance as it is an electromechanical device, but they're too expensive for that.
All except for once cylinder made a noticible difference just by ear. But I can't get to the injectors to unhook them while it's running, I need to take the intake manifold off. I already put new ignition components in when I first got the truck. Due to the behaviour of the oxygen sensor I'm leaning for a bad injector.
Isnt the sensor supposed be within a specific temperature before checking resistance? From my experience temperature will affect the resistance reading.
Yup! That was my baby but had to sell her over a year ago. Needed a truck to for work. Really wanted to Coyote-swap her in the future. I may get another one later on with a lot less miles because the interiors do not age well at all.
eric…..I get the testing.... and a good tech needs to know.... but in the real world on a Toyota blow a sensor in and move on! I have worked at a chevy dealer 25 years and independent for 9 years
Sensors are almost $200 for an OEM AFR. I will never just blow one in when it takes 2min to be 100% positive :) It is not my money I am spending so I like to be correct. Test, don't guess!
eric your are a great tech I have seen many.... I cant argue.... at chevy we were never taught how to use a scope and you ace it! we worked from the gut first.... like jim the car guy I guess old school... I have so many made up wire crap in my box im getting the kit from ace wave if it is in your store ill get it there
It is to bad they didn't have a scope for you guys, takes a lot, errrr all of the guess work out of it if you ask me. How did they have you diag'in CAN and other data network problems? They are impossible with out a scope IMO.
years back the cams machine was like junk didn't last long the tech I then the tec 2 and a dvom and a headlight to load and scope on a rope can line was around 4 to 5ish volts it averaged and just whos not talking
G.M. made the Pico 4425 an essential tool 4 or 5 years ago.They also taught scope diagnostics 30 years ago at Chicago GM training center.GM also has the Data Bus Diagnostic tool,which is downloaded to your PC like GDS 2. Pulls voltages from ALDL through MDI to display on screen.
Carlos ------Eric is using the meter in the Ohm or Resistance Mode, only to check the AFR Heater. He showed the resistance of a know good part,that car had a failed or open heater, thus your Zero Ohm's The 12 plus volts is Only for the Heater,he used a lamp to check for power to the heater, not the actual voltage to it.
Personal preference but I find the multiple tips videos hard to follow. I believe the only thing he could add if he didn't already would be similar videos with more information.
