TESTING LEE R.E.A.L. BULLETS IN A LYMAN GREAT PLAINS HUNTER 

Great info, Garrett!

I have a LEE REAL mold in .45 and had similar issues at first till I switched to soft lead from air rifle and .22 lr range trash and added to the charge 10-15grs. The base of these bullets has to expand up on firing to fully grab the rifling. Those that key holed show little rifling marks on the lower rings. A waxed wad or nitro card might help the bullet base from being burned in the process.

I have had good luck with the Lee R.E.A.L bullet. 1 in 48 twist. .54 cal Lyman Trade Rifle. Using Tripple Seven.

Wouldnt upping the powder/muzzle velocity make it spin faster/stabilize better?

Just caught your live stream! Loved it. Weak signal kept me from jumping into the comment stream. Make your own us how to have what the system tries to restrict! Love, Peace and Awareness precious spirits!

You’ll need a faster twist with that long of a bullet. But, you may find tighter groups if you use a wad under the bullet and up the charge. Try the shorter Lee real and a wad or thick card under the bullet with that rifle.

I had a CVA Mountain rifle. I used Lee Real bullets, it shot fairly well with 90 grains of 3f.

Best thing for big heavy chungus lead nuggets is a slower twist and a slower explosion so they have plenty of time to wind up. 1:66 is classic but modern powders push a bit better so, have you tried? Random number. 1:56? It will be whatever you would also shoot ball at. For different reasons requiring similar pyhsics. I am brand new to BP Blastersticks. But, I grew up a boyscout not far from gettysburg, and i fancy myself a napoleonic era gnome-like creature. - I speak cannonade. "Jes Suis, Gnomepoleon! Apportez plus Canon, Mis Amis!" I only know enough to say that, and, "Jes Suis, (Always) Gnomepoleon! (Have to say it), je dois Empruntur Le Garson." Lead is not a smooth metal, not at all. And it flakes.. REAL bullets, as i understand. Are intentionally fat so they seal well. Lube dat biatch. Did you? Maybe and i missed it and/or you said in a different video. Happy hunting mang.

Try the the old TC ( THREAD SPOOL) type bullets ...have had real good luck with those. ( maxi something or other I think ...my brain is not pulling it up right now)

I thought at one time the. "Fast" twist was 1:28 and slow ( RB was 1:60) *edit* you did mention the 1:28 .....sorry

I wish my Traditiond 32 cal would shoot the maxi balls. Keyhole bad.

Don't know didn't catch I did have issues but a felt wad was the answer to the 310 grain real

Should rest forearm on shooting bag

That's unfortunate

Well, I guess you got to keep on buying guns until you find one that likes these bullets. :)

two things I know that can make this difference is a felt wad under the bullet and using a good lube in the grooves.

My goodness, what a mess. How does it shoot with a round ball? Ethan from I love muzzleloading just did a video comparing conicals and a round ball in a .50 TC Hawkin and the round ball did really well.

I used Lee REAL bullets many years ago in a Hawken rifle with a 1:48 twist and found their accuracy to be fantastic. I recently was shooting a Pedersoli Gibbs .45 cal rifle with 550gr postel pointed bullets and they were keyholing at 50 yards. The twist is 1:18. The problem I eventually found was that the bullets I was casting were far too hard and would would not bump up to the rifling when fired. I changed the lead to tin ratio to 30:1 and the problem instantly disappeared with accuracy changing to what it should be. The twist you are using should easily stabilise the LEE Real bullets. Are you using pure lead? If not try casting some pure lead bullets and see if that helps at all. If that works, then try bumping up to 30:1 lead to tin and if that works, stick with that ratio. I feel for you because I knew my load should work with the twist I was using but in the end it was the hardness of the bullet that was the problem.

I thought a lower charge would help. Maybe try a PRB as a data point.

KEY HOLES mean too slow I have a GPH with peep sight, 1oo gr ffg 320 maxi balls 3" at 100 bench '--

Just my opinion here.. muzzleloading has taught me to calm down and stay on the sights even after the shot. the lock time is slow, and getting rid of the old habits developed from "bad form centerfire shooting" has greatly improved my groups.

You are going the wrong way ...twist induced instability is fromm not enough rpm ......increase the charge ....not decrease. Also bump up and rifling engagement will improve ....I shoot reals over about 100 grains of 2F in a 50 cal.

I tried these bullets in a Lyman GPR. Very loose in the bore. Couldn't hit a 2 foot square piece of cardboard at 30 yds. I've seen videos of folks shooting these well.

I used lee real bullets in my 54 caliber renegade but I only fill the mold to two rings and sand the bottoms shoots they don't seem to keyhole.4 in groups at 75 yards might help

That's a fine Southpaw Hawken, Garrett! I'm sorry to see the bullets weren't up to the task.

Looks like those rounds need to go back in the pot for casting something else.

First of all, you don't want a hard bullet so use 2% tin / lead. And I think you need to at least try a larger powder charge. Like at least 80 gr and try 90 too. Also, having read and watched videos suggesting a wad between powder and REAL bullet I tried it with a hard card and groups tightened up a bit but still weren't satisfactory. A friend suggested a felt wad saturated with 50% beeswax and 50% coconut oil (melt them together and soak the wads, lift then out and spread on aluminum foil or a old cookie sheet) and I keep mine in a diabetic test strip capsule (used to use a 35mm film canister but those went away with the dinosaurs). These lubed wads made a big difference on accuracy and made cleaning the rifle easier too. Since there's a bit of oily factor on this lube I don't leave my gun loaded overnight anymore out of caution but I kerp meaning to test if it would cause miss fires someday. Never have had one on day of loading though.

I have the same rifle left hand . I shoot the 425 grain minnie ball lyman that has a hollow base.. that expands and grabs the rifling. So accurate with 110 grains of FFF. I see the mold for sale for $99.

I have tried Lee REAL bullets in both 50 and 54 caliber with very poor results. I gave up on them and melted them back down for round ball bullets.

Very good and honest study I look forward to further testing. I have quick question. With my Uberti replica of the Model 1875 Remington in .45 Colt. I cannot get through more than 2 cylinders of 5 shots each with Lee 200 gr RNFP bullets well lubricated over 30 grs black powder before it becomes too fouled to cycle and the cylinder pin becomes all but impossible to pull out for cleaning. Do you have any suggestions to make it more compatible to shooting black powder? Doris J

I have had lousey results in my .50 untill I crumpled a patch, put it over the powder, then set the bullet. the shots tightened way up. Try that.

You need to shoot upwards of 400 grain bullets and a 1 and 32 twist is what I found out with mine 385 something like that I found that the Maxi balls work really well in my rifle

Try going up in charge. May not be bumping up the bullet enough to fill the bore

I had problem, until I used a wool wad between the powder charge and the projectile. Also I had to use 80 grains of blackhorn

Some say 30-1 tin mix to stop stripping of narrow bands. Some say less lube on bullet shank. Or base lube. Who knows???

I have had good accurate results with the Hornady 385 grain Great Plains lead hollow points in my rifles, one with 1:48 twist and the other has a 1:28 twist. Thanks for the video.

Great video, I have the LEE Double 320 grain R.E.A.L mold. Does awesome I felt wad mine. I get better accuracy out of the felted VS the non felted.

Have had very good results with the R.E.A.L. bullets in my CVA/Traditions 1/26 twist. Last outing was only 25 yds but was consistently keyholing my shots. 60Gr of Pyrodex RS. Black powder is stupid expensive in Canada so is saved for special occasions. Don't judge me.

And, back the powder back down. 60gns tops, 40gns bottom. THat and a crumpled patch under the casting.

My LEE Mold say 320gr. Boolit does well in my TC Hawken 1:48" twist.

I have the 50 cal mold and 320 grains. The best accuracy I found is tumble powder coating with a super thick coat and no lube. I can put five shots in one big hole at 50 yards with 60 grains of Pyrodex powder. No powder coating and lubed the best is about 4” groups. They need to be powder coated to increase the diameter for a tight seal and best accuracy.

Yoo-ho-ho. Hold up? A fast twi- Never Mind, Lyman is just using cheeking marketing. A "Great Plains" Anything Rifle, Period Speaking. Would have been biiig. Like, 64 calibur at least to bullseye a buffalo. And, they blew buffalo away. 😅 I DIGRESS. I was just excited cause im looking for a special kind of big-bore. Please, continue.

I tried again and found out that my time, and powder is short. That is why I would not give my Lee real mold to someone that I didn't like, it would just be to mean you know now frustrating it is sighting in a gun, and it is not you causing the error. I have 4 different muzzleloaders they all agree they don't like this bullet lubed or not, and felt wad over the powder ,049 round patched ball at 50 yards they will have a 1 inch hole on a good day , They also like the 420 gn no excuses bullet in . 503 and .504 diameter. I have watched, I love Muzzleloading and he has taken a lot of the inaccuracy out of his Lee real bullet. I didn't have the same results

You’re resting on your barrel instead of the forehead that’s not helping your accuracy either.

Try buffalo 9/16 heavy wads lubed yet?

I have found the .50 cal LEE REAL and the LEE mini ball both work great in my CVA Optima Rifle and Pistol and pretty ok in my vintage CVA Hawken and Mountain rifle. They work moderately well in my Traditions Flintlock. So I thought that I'd try a .54 cal REAL bullet mold and am disappointed. They work fairly well in my old T/C New Englander but in my vintage Cabela's (Invest Arms, Lyman) it is anybodies guess as to where they will hit. It could be the bullet alloy I used as it was not entirely pure lead but they were unpredictable. Mind you I have a very small stash of the old Hornady .54 cal Great Plains bullets that work very well in the Cabela's (Invest Arms, Lyman) but I'm trying to conserve those for hunting purposes. Good REAL bullets requires a complete fill of the mold cavity so that the ridges are each peaked and sharp. If you look in the mold you can see each ridge comes to a sharp peak. Slightly rounded ridges or easy dropping from the mold indicates undersized bullets, not "good enough" or just lucky. If the alloy is not right, the temperature of the mold isn't right or the alloy just right, they will not completely fill ever so slightly and the ridge will have a very slight rounded appearance. They will also drop from the mold as soon as you open it, requiring no tapping. The LEE REAL completely relies on these ridges to grip the rifling and stabilize. Some guns are more tolerant to under sized REAL's and others are not. After I cast I go back through and look at every one ad separate them into piles for my different guns or to melt back down. If you put a caliper on an "easy dropper" bullet, you can see as much as a .002 to .005 under size on the ridges.

You can always melt them down

do you see that much of a burn dif?

Chronograph will tell you a lot.

Yes I bought a 50 caliber mold, and I had great expectations, but unfortunately my results or very poor, so I've got a box of 50 caliber real Lee bullets , soon to be melted down yes my great expectations soon diminished

Traditions kentucky w/ 1:66. Twist 80 grns 3 f at both 50 and 100 yrds shot great.

My 1:48 twist hawken didn't like light powder charges with the Lee REAL's. Shot about like yours with 60 grain charges where the PRB's shot really well. They liked being seated right on top of a stout 90+ grain charge of Pyrodex P. No overpowder wads, lube cookies, or anything. I have now real blackpowder, Swiss 2F, and Schuetzen 2F that I need to test out for the upcoming hunting season. Even have some 1.5F I thought about trying for gits and shiggles.

If you don't mind me asking. But where did you get your powder horn? I'm looking for one just like yours. Same size and shape with brass spout on the end.

Theres a bullet maker called No Excuses bullets out of UT, try some, they come pre-lubed and put a felt wad under it. They have various weights. Even T/C maxiballs are crap, the bases need to be perfect. Find a good bullet and stick to it. Sabot bullets are illegal in a lot of states. I prefer heavy lead.

I have shot the Lee Real and it was not nearly that bad. Not as good as factory Great Plains but plenty accurate out of a TC Hawken and Renegade. Something is completely off about that combo.

Do you lube the REAL bullets

I had the same results

I had the same problem..until I realized I was not getting fully formed ribs all the way to the base of the bullet...keeping the mold good and hot before pouring made the ribs fully formed and accuracy was great afterward.....

I’ve had similar results out of the Lee Real Bullets too. I enjoyed the video.

One of two things if not both. You're not putting a wad between your charge and projectile. Without a gas gas check you're just having gas escape around the projector. Secondly have you measured your bores lands and groves? What lead type did you cast your lee real bullets from? The lee real bullet is oversized unless you're using the incorrect lead mixture, too hard of lead or your mold temperature isn't correct and your bullets aren't filling out. I shoot lee Conicals as well as Lyman great plains Conicals from a 1:24 twist .54 cal hawken with great accuracy. I will state they like to be lubed in my experience (not bore butter) and placed over a felt wad which is a bit larger than what your groove diameter is.

Melt them down into something else

I love REAL bullets .. they are made for SLOW twists...they are extremely accurate in barrels designed for round balls... In your test you are doing exactly the opposite...