Testing Rebuilt Tractor Hydraulic Cylinders 

Hahaha, I wish I would have started my RU-vid channel sooner. I did a lot of work on the tractor and it would have made some good videos. Thanks for watching!

I have another video where I rebuilt the cylinders. You might want to use some kind of sleeve to compress the rod seals before putting it in the cylinder. That way you can really tighten the nut on the end of the rod, and it won't be so much of a fight getting it back together.

Nope, from what I understand, any air in the hoses or cylinders is forced into the hydraulic fluid as small bubbles which are then carried back to the sump where the air can escape.

It sounds like maybe your hydraulic valve is only acting as a one way valve, not allowing fluid to flow back into the sump. It might need a rebuild but I'm not sure.

This is the only tractor I've ever operated so I don't have anything to compare it to, in terms of steering. I've heard of people adding power steering to these older Ford tractors but I haven't looked into it myself. You can adjust the front and rear tire widths which might result in slightly easier steering but I'm not sure. Let me know what solution you come up with for your tractor. Thanks for watching!

Take the bucket off the front and see how it steers. It's not a whole lot heavier than an 8N without a loader, but just dropping the bucket is a lot of the front weight. You can also have something heavy on the back to take weight off the front. My tiller is enough to make it too light and need front ballast. Back blade might be about right. If you already have the PS unit and installed it I would love to hear how it went. I have a new-to-me 860 and 8N. Selling the 8N and want to get the 860 running like new.

Thanks Matt, it was my grandfather's tractor. It's definitely worth trying to rebuild the cylinder yourself. If you get stuck or run out of patience, you can always take it to your local hydraulics shop.

Is your loader supposed to operate with the same lever as your rear lift or does it have its own lever? On mine, with the valve under my seat pushed in, I can operate the rear lift. If I pull the valve knob out, it diverts the hydraulics to the loader cylinders. I use the same lever to raise and lower the rear lift and the loader but I can't move them both at the same time. It sounds like your valve only holds the loader pressure when closed (pushed in). It's like the hydraulic fluid isn't be diverted to your loader with enough pressure. I'm not sure what the problem is but If you rear lift works and can lift heavy implements then maybe the hydraulic valve under your seat, needs to be rebuilt. It could have some bad seals/o-rings.

@@Mikeattempts Thank you for your help. I ended up purchasing a selector valve like you have, and rebuilding the hydraulic pump, Hopefully it does the trick.

@@landanwarren5394 That'll probably resolve your issues, let me know how it goes.

There is enough room on both sides to access the engine. You can also remove the the hood and grill, you just have to lift the pieces up and over the loader frame.

How do u bleed the air out of single acting cylinders

@@guypatts494 From what I understand, under pressure, any air in the cylinder forms tiny bubbles in the hydraulic fluid and is returned to the sump where it can escape. So, that's the long way to say they bleed themselves. :)

Nope, this was my grandfather's tractor and it had the loader when I got it. There is a metal label riveted on but I'm unable to tell who the manufacturer was.

Yes