I think I could see his point. I think he meant it doesn't really show anything of value - we knew the Makita was more powerful from the previous test, so what the point of putting them against each other?
Exactly! The B & D does the job... I have pretty identical one, except it has a keyless chuck. At the price, excellent... second battery on charge while the first is in use covers most disadvantages.
Same here, I got the drill on Black Friday at Walmart, for home DIY it's been perfect. I bought the driver later since I wanted to share batteries before they changed the design. I'm not a house framing pro so they have been more than fine.
@@democracyforall about 300 watts or something like that a think for 15 amps think makita has a 30 amp fuse so a think makita is way more powerful about 500 /550 watts
I’ve had that exact black and decker impact for years. Love that thing. Dropped it in water buckets and dried it out, thrown it. It got sprayed with brake clean then set on fire. Left outside Still works perfect to this day. Love that thing. Also that metal on the front is just plastic.
I have both tools. I started with the B&D(paid $35 open box) when it first came out. I've driven many of screws with that B&D until I was able to afford the Makita. The B&D still runs as strong as it did the first day, but it will never be on the same level as a Makita. I fell in love with Makita with its size, balance in weight, and the amount of power & torque delivered. I've owned and used a lot of different brands and havent found one that works as well for me as the makita. Thats with all the makita tools across their line up i have found to be top notch. So of course putting a B&D up against a makita is unfair as one is for home use and the other is for pro use, and they are obviously manufactured & priced accordingly.
I actually go the opposite direction. I believe that swearing or cursing is just another tool in my vocabulary toolbox. Yes, I have a plethora of non-curse words in my repertoire. However, there is a time and a place for such words.
I can predict what will happen to: * drill bits - going to become blunt a lot faster; * bits - either warp or break; * dremel - depends on how cheap, probably similar to what you just saw (if it's really poorly made you might see the chuck or motor failing); * cheap saw blades in my experience come blunt out of the package (may depend on what saw you mean); * imo safety glasses would be hard to test, but i guess the cheaper kind would scratch/fog way more easily.
Cheapest safety glasses wouldn't be that hard. I'd recommend the "safety" as priority for testing. A good example might be shooting at them with a nail gun. The good ballistic glasses from co's like Oakley are very good at taking shrapnel and such. I'd be interested in the cheaper options' capabilities.
For safety glasses, get a multi-pack or something, and step up the tests until you get constant failures, then apply to the good ones. I'd do a scratch test first, get a mohs hardness test kit, record what hardness it takes to scratch. Next would be impact test, start with a 2x4 and wack the glasses once on each lens. Then step it up to small hammer (ball peen perhaps?), then a larger hammer, then the mini sledge, if they're still intact, full sledge. Then on fresh glasses, drive fasteners into the lenses, nail gun, 16 penny nail, construction screw driven in with hammer. Then maybe a solvent and corrosive test, does it stand up to brake cleaner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, etc.
I have a whole set of these Black & Decker tools (drill, impact driver, saw, etc.) and use them heavily in a city living situation. I would say they're solid for 1.5 - 2 years and then you'll start seeing a lot of failures and issues (if you use them heavily). For a regular home owner, you'll see more life out of them.
Thanks. This is the information that I wanted (after watching three vids). I get Black & Decker tools for free and just wanted to know if they are worth the bother or would they breakdown after a few months of lighter home use.
CODY CODY CODY READ THIS !!!!! You can turn off the noise on the makita charger. place the battery on the charger imediatly take it off the slider on the charger will change the sound if you depress it down each time you slide it down it changes the noise/song there are about five different noises/songs but the last is no sound at all! let me know if it works for you!
He drilled the screw too close to the edge of the piece of wood, so the mentioned piece of wood split before the screw got deep. Then he drove the screw farther from the edges to see the B&D with an actual challenge, and it buckled. The Makita drove it through, like it was supposed to and the wood splitting at the very end tensioning had nothing to do with it's victory.
Yet, during the second drilling of the B&D, he already damaged the wood in such a way that the makita had an easier time drilling the screw head deep into the wood.
I’ve had that same impact for 2-3 years now and it hasn’t failed me yet. I’ve built a chicken coop, tree house for the kids, and done countless stuff with it inside the house as well. It’s held up just fine.
You can change the sound setting on the Mikita charger. Plug in the battery twice, really quick, and there are actually like 10 different sound settings. One of them is just silent. Took me a while to figure that one out!
The 2 extra volts is pure marketing. Here in Europe they're just sold as 18V because that's what they are. They have 5 cells of 3.6V nominal, but when fully charged the peak voltage is about 4V, and that's what's quoted in your area.
20v and 18v are no different. All 18v batteries are 20v out of load and 18 in load they’re both literally the exact same. The reason all Stanley black and decker tools say 20v is because another tool manufacturer owns the rights to 18v so anyone who puts 18v on their tools has to pay royalties to them. So the tools that say 18v are just telling you what the voltage is in load and the 20v tools are just what they are out of load, but they’re both 20v out of load and 18 in load. Also you’re seeing sparks in the black and decker because it is a brushed motor and that’s the brushes rubbing up against metal. The Makita is brushless so there is no metal to metal rubbing so no sparks. All brushed motors will create those sparks. Hope this helps.
In the uk there’s no such thing as 20v dewalt range it’s all 18v but it’s exactly the same as the 20v just different branding think the 20v is only in North America
The wood test was innacurate due too the first bolt putting strain on the wood, when the second screw is driven in the wood splits and reduced to torque needed to fully drive home the bolt. good test and lot to be said for the cheaper option.
@@santroff5050 I noticed the same thing. Any one with woodworking experience knows to stagger the placement of fasteners to prevent splitting. Plus driving that size lag is asking for splitting.
I'm in the company of pros. Right off the bat I knew that second screw was going to split the wood when he drove it into the same line of grain as the first. And also that the first bolt was "prying the door open" for that second bolt to gain full entry. Would like to see an accurate test performed by someone that isn't bias to the Makita. Still it was an "E" for effort😊
I used that B&D to remodel my house. I was ignorant on impacts when I purchased it. It did a wonderful job. I had to have 2 batteries charging at a time. 1.5 years later when i was finished the remodel it still worked. It gave up the white ghost many times and it still works and is still my go to tool even with my dewalt dril and driver I got for my birthday sitting unused.
The wood split while the Marita was driving in the lag, making it a bit easier on it to complete the drive. It was not quite a fair test. But i can say from experience, out of 9 B&D drills and impacts i have purchased, 6 of the motors went bad in under 1 year.
ant3695 no, but now that you mention that... im not asking cody to change what he did, i just wanted to point it out for people really wanting this info. I would also recommend B&D tools, but know they are cheaper, and a bit lower quality. I have had many, because I like the variety of tools that can be used with the same batteries, i have at least 20 batteries now.... lol
8:47 The sparks inside is from new brushes. My Makita drill also had that in the beginning, it's normal and it means that the brushes don't have seamless contact with the commutator. The irregularities in the contact grind away after some usage.
I have a B&D orbital sander and the thing terrifies me lol. I'll flip it on sometimes and it's RPMs are way out of wack. Then I have a cordless string trimmer that seems to work okay with light duty use.. so.. not sure how I feel about them. I'll always have a soft spot for anything Makita.
Brendan Stanford I don't know if it's cause black and decker now owns dewalt. If they've made that their profesional line or what. But b&d electric tools aren't any good. They're hand tools are still pretty great. (It's Stanley black and decker).
He should have tried to drive that bolt that the B&D couldn't with the makita. That would've shown if it had more power. Or drive in 10 bolts each and the decide.
Love the kitty in the background wondering what’s going on he’s come thru a few times and the noise doesn’t bother him one bit! Love my Makita drills never been disappointed
My Makita can drive a 10 inch screw into a wooden block and take the (impact wrench-tightened) lug nuts off of my tires, so I wouldn't worry too much about the "fairness" of this test.
if the wood breaks, it is easy to screw, in the first attempt black and decker screwed because the wood broke, the second try not ... when makita screwed, the wood broke, is not a fair comparison.
Felix Böge Yea funny he complains about the fan but doesn't acknowledge the fact that the makita charger will charge a 3ah battery in about 15 minutes while the b&d takes an hour to charge a 1.5ah. Makita has the fastest chargers on the market, the fan is definitely required lol
Makita has the best thermal protection of all brands. I've worked as a solar installer in socal for 7 yrs. and toasted most of the others. Batteries get sapped from hot rooftops and Sun exposure. Makita batteries also recover faster and survive 15+ft drops.
I've been running the Porter Cable 20vL outfit (first gen) (3 drills, c-saw, rec saw, a-grinder) for about 8 years and i couldn't be happier. Gives me everything i ask from them I'm a homeowner....not a contractor, however, I've put the sawzall/ rec-saw through literal hell and it still chuggin along like a champ
Cody, Ryobi is owned by the same company (Techtronic Industries) as Milwuakee, AvE also said that Rigid is made in there Techtronic's factories but I can't find anything on it.
Rigid might be made there? but it's owned by Emerson industries, not tti from what I can find on Wikipedia. TTI ownes Milwaukee and Ryobi. Based in Hong Kong. DeWalt, Porter cable, Black & Decker are owned by Stanley and US based.
R.D. K I know that Ridgid is owned by Emerson. Someone who is reputable (AvE) said that TTI's factory makes tools for Rigid. I just can't find anything else on it and thought that someone might have better luck finding out than me.
Johnny Utah old comment but I love my Milwaukee grinder so much I couldn’t resist. Going on 2 years of being welded into my vise and various other tortures and it’s still my best grinder
I'd like you to compare a cheapo with an expensive one. Then with the amount of money for the expensive one, how many cheapos (for the same money) it can destroy.
The noise from the makita chargers is the fan which is essential to cool the battery while it is being charged. The batteries charge at such a high temperature that cooling them down will make the life of them much longer
I use the Makita impacts daily to put couplings on pipe every day at work. It’s a well made tool and tough. It takes falls from scissor and boom lifts, ladders and scaffold and gets back to work in almost every case. I don’t mind the singing charging stations, personally. Battery life is pretty good as well. It’s pricey, but you get your money’s worth out of it in my opinion
Lol. True and a funny observation. Not sure I'd have Cody build my deck without giving him specific instruction after seeing him split that block by running two bolts along the same grainline, but I would trust that he respects weapons enough not to accidentally fire one off😋
I have to say, I'm a hitachi guy. All my hitachi tools have proved themselves time and time again. Love the test but I'm gonna stay with my favorite. This tends to be a ford, dodge or chevy argument :). Wise men and women on all sides of the conversation.
I love my hitachi gear too it's not China made from tech industry's like Mikita royobi ect ... japan is where quality is at and that's where hitachi is made
guys i wanna beg to differ. im in the UK, run a music/video studio and a small woodshop. i own the impact and hammer drill set from b and d...and they've never stalled never failed and i get a full mornings use out of the batteries..better still the batteries take less time to charge than to run down so i never get left with no juice. its all about horses for courses. i use these on my family's clinker build antique boats and converted steel horsebox food truck too.... i love them. each to their own ay! keep up the vids man. peace
have to say, first time i have ever seen or her of your videos. just kind of stumbled across them, but you actually do some valid, educational, informational, stuff.. Keep up the good work. I love them!!
Yeah I kinda raised an eyebrow at that comment I have Hitachi tools at work but have Makita for my personal tools. I have no issues with the Hitachi tools they work well haha way better than anything Black and Decker I know that!
In Germany Hitachi is a premium brand. Comparable to Makita, DeWalt and Milwaukee. But i think those are sold as Metabo(the Light Green ones) in the us.
I bought a small’ish Black & Decker lithium-ion drill once and the motor burnt out (let the smoke out) the first time I used it, I was drilling a screw into wood and it stalling and the motor fried. I returned it and bought a little DeWalt 12v combo kit with a nice little drill and small impact driver….. I still have it today, the batteries are still strong even being in my super hot/super cold garage. I use that impact driver for everything! Working on my car it will twist lug nuts off and I’ve mounted MANY flat screen TV’s with it putting lag bolts (with pilot holes) into studs. The last TV I mounted (huge 75’ screen) broke a brand new lag bolt in half when the bolt hit something hard as I was driving it in. Great little impact driver, VERY strong.
Hey great videos but after watching a couple comparisons you have made mention of 18V vs. 20V. They are the same thing... just depends and where on the discharge curve you take the number. As far as I've seen as I've seen so far they all use 18650 Li-ion cells which have a rated voltage of 3.7V but can be as high as 4.2V fresh off the charger. Basically both use 5 cells in series in their packs and the larger packs parallel an additional 5 cells for the greater capacity and obvious size. So the difference 18V vs. 20V is just marketing.
Your Makita is brush-less the black and Decker is brushed. that's why its weaker the battery is 20V but brushed motors aren't as efficient as brush-less.
Lithium Ion Cells have about 3,7 Volts each. So if you put a couple together, you get about 18,5 Volts with 5 Cells in parallel. But, if fully charged, a Cell holds up to 4,2 Volts. And if you look closely, the cheap ones battery says "Max 20V". So they are clearly cheating here, they also use the 5 Cells but call it 20 Volts, due to them being 4,2 Volts each when fully charged (which would actually make 21 Volts). The Makita one with its 3 Ah propably has 10 Cells, 2 packs of 5 Cells (5 cells in parallel for the 18 Volts and 2 of these packs for doubling the Ampere hours to 3 Ah, instead of 1,5 Ah)
@@flippingdrummer Agreed. Keyword though; for the price. Ryobi makes good stuff for the price, however, build quality is obviously lower to compensate for the price. Like internally might be more similar, but the outer body is much cheaper. I haven't worked with much from Ryobi because I abuse my tools and I know Ryobi couldn't take what I would be putting it to the test for, but for lighter work, Ryobi has got my approval. For real abuse though, I've found Ryobi to not being able to take it. So on a job site, I could easily go through Ryobi easily, if you're looking for basic housework, don't see why not. DISCLAIMER: I do know Ryobi has made some significant changes and bringing on more products, just haven't worked with them enough. Their older stuff, maybe like a year or two old, that's where the above applies.
dfgdfg I guess this is a more practical layman's review. But if you're interested in that you might want to look at the 'Popular Mechanics' magazine. I got mine when I was 11 and I've loved it for all three years I've had it!
T.T.G Krydder or watch AvE on RU-vid, this video is like a children's version of his content. He breaks down tools to really reviews them down to the bits.
why the hell are people taking this so seriously? while he is "testing" them, he is primarily just messing around. only a moron would think that he believes this is a proper and extensive testing on the tools..
Im a carpenter and I use a ryobi cordless circular saw sometimes. It always works great. The key is getting the Lithium Plus batteries because it drains the normal ones quickly. But cordless circular saws work wonderfully as long as you use them properly. I also have a Makita worm drive and it is obviously no comparison. Because actually craftsmen dont expect tools to do more than their purpose.
Well with lithium batteries wether its fully charger or half its still going to send the exact same output until its entirely dead. Thats the best part about lithium unlike the nickle or nicad batteries they run slower and slower until its dead but lithium is 100% until the end haha
Volts aren't directly connected with power. It's actually volt and ampere multiplied (Watts) that determine how much energy the tool actually draws and then there is efficiency and the gear ratio. So often more volts mean more power but there is a lot more to it.
The 20 volt rating is actually quite a lie when you consider that both 18v and 20v tools are at 20v when under NO load. The voltage drops instantly when put under load so the 18v rating is the actual true voltage you can expect from both 20v and 18v rated tools.
it all came down to the bigger battery of the Makita (3AH) VS the smaller B&D one (1.5AH). the amperage of a battery not only mean the time it last but also the more continues power it provides, while the voltage only gives the max speed of it.
I scrolled down to find this comment. Given a common discharge rate of 10c means that the Makita battery will provide 600 watts, while the B&D battery is only capable of providing 270 watts. Try to find a like sized battery and try the test again.
haloboy777 I agree. Put a 3.0 ah battery in the B&D and redo the test. Also comparing a brushless impact with a brushed impact. Not a fair fight for the B&D in my opinion.
@Wranglerstar The burning electronics smell is likely due to the brushed motor arcing and burning out, the Makita wouldn't have that smell since it is brushless, same reason as to why the B&D had lights on the inside. From the brushes arcing.
I stand corrected, I never knew that Makita made a brushed drill, all the tools I have seen and own are brushless, and I didn't even realize that they made a brushed version until I went to their website and scrolled all the way down. The more you know...
in 2016 I bought the last two tool Porter - Cable 12 volt cordless drill and impact driver set at Lowe's here in Canada. They were no longer going to sell 12 volt Porter - Cable tools. I wanted just the drill because it had been highly rated in tests on a contractor's tool test website. I got both for a fantastic $ 100. I have never seen as good a deal. I had no idea what an impact driver was for, and so I sold it after much difficulty for $ 35. I wish I had kept it ! The drill is FANTASTIC ! Nice and compact with loads of torque and great speed. Great batter life, too. I read that for general household use 12 volts is enough. You don't need 18 or 20 volts. A contractor will, though. Now I am hearing that Stanley - Black & Decker who own DeWalt. Porter - Cable, and Black & Decker are going to discontinue the Porter - Cable line. They plan on merging it into their Craftsman power tool line which they bought when Sears went belly up. DeWalt is their premium "contractor" brand, Porter - Cable is their mid range line, and Black and Decker is their budget line. Thirty years ago Black and Decker corded drills, and Skills corded drills were good rugged tools. Today, not any longer. Skil I am not sure about but Black and Decker tools are JUNK !
LOL, I bought my Black+Decker impact driver (my first) on Thursday... Its 18v (Poland), and I tell you that was well money spent. Be aware B+D is now DIY guy tool... as Stanley Black&Decker makes (in my country) this type of "ladder" of power tools: DeWalt; Stanley; Black+Decker; P.S. DeWalt battery don't work with B+D (1 more pin) Stanley battery could work (I think) because they got two additional pins which you can remove...
I have been using a used Black + Decker impact of the same model for over 2 years now 5 days a week removing about 20 screws a day, changing the battery about once a month. I have dropped it from 4 to 5 feet high to the ground 10 to 15 times and it is still going strong. I use 2.0 AH batteries on mine. I think it is money well spent. And yes Black + Decker and DeWalt are made by Stanley Black and Decker