I have found several instructional videos for the boost leak mod and the waste gate actuator adjustment. I have to say that this video is, by far, the easiest to follow. I followed this video for both mods on my 2013 Abarth 500 and was shocked at how much difference it made. I have VERY little turbo lag now. Thank you for such a well done and easy to follow video. Keep up the good work.
Holy crap, this is one of the funniest home mechanic videos I've ever watched, AND I actually learned something. Just picked up Abarth #2 and I may have to do these mods myself. Any emissions issues with the Boost Leak fix?
Great DIY video " fat man" i specially like your tests after the mods, i've been a tester all my life ( aircraft engines ) and i need to see numbers, good job !
In italy and in Europe fiat dont use a multiair turbo on 500 abarth ....but use a motor t-jet turbo .....140 cv or 160..or 180 cv this motor is more strong and durable than multiair turbo
Love your videso, so informational. I do have a question about your injen intake. I know you don't have it installed anymore, but I was wondering if you had any "whistle" sound under full throttle? I installed mine about a week ago and have the whistle is extremely loud. I checked for intake leaks, and re did the install, put hose clamps on everything I could. The noise is still there. Any suggestions?
I never had anything like that. Hard to imagine what it could be. It’s not turbo spooling whistle is it? If you’re used to stock, turbo noises will be a little louder. Another idea would be to see the difference between full throttle on the road vs full throttle out of gear in the driveway.
You can't hear it under full throttle in neutral. And I don't think it's just the turbo spooling up, it's a very high frequency whistle. It's really annoying actually.
Very nice video. I need a small guidance. My Abarth convertible 2013 - is stuck at 144kmph..A US model and appear a limit specified in the ECU. Can this be changed, if yes then how?
The limitation should only be with the top down. This is supposedly to protect the top from flying off. Top up, you should be going all the way tp 135mph.
From one fat middelaged heavy breathing man to the other: Great video👍Thanks! I installed a cheap tuning box from TMC Motorsport in the UK that works great - (plug and play) Have to try these free mods during the winther - thanks😊
The man on the Road Thanks! I’ll be doing a bunch of supporting mods next week, and then I’m going with open flash tablet for the tune. Old fat racers of the world, unite!
@@EveryOtherFridayOff are you tune the car with the OFT? I've been thinking about tune mine but I haven't take any decision, if I'm going with either oft or tork or speedmotive or eurocompulsion, why would you like more OFT,
Felipe Lopez: This is a horribly controversial topic in the Abarth community. I think you can get a general agreement that a true ecu tune is going to be better than any piggy back tuner. So that leaves eurocompulsion, Tork, and OFT as the generally agreed “best” options for the North America, multiair Abarth. The animosity between Fans of Tork vs fans of EC is really bad, with almost every discussion turning into a flame war. It’s generally agreed that OFT is making less power than the other 2. However, I chose OFT because it has some capability for me to mess around with the tune myself (I won’t do better than a pro, I’m just curious). Not being involved in the flame wars was appealing to me also.
@@EveryOtherFridayOff that's right and I wonder why OFT doesn't have more support, I want to get OFT but I read they have just two tunes, I'm looking to get a few more HP and the car run smoother, are you planning to make a video during and after the tune?
Dude, this video was EXCELLENT! I am enjoying researching the abarth right now as i look at daily drivers that i can occasionally autocross. Right now im considering this abarth and the velociter n. The quality of this video was uncommon, you did a great job. Do you still have your abarth, and if you could go back in time would you still buy it?
ThePreppersBunkerOutdoors I still own and still love the Abarth. I would absolutely buy again. If you are looking to buy the best autocross car, then there are probably better choices if winning is what matters to you. With an Abarth though, you get a great deal on the best sounding, Italian, most ridiculous car on the grid. I love that I get to drive a crazy little race car to work.
Hello, I recently bought a used 2015 500 Abarth. I was intrigued by the fact that my turbo intake downpipe (the plastic square pipe) was missing a tube on the side, and the other tube was broken off. This led me down a rabbit hole of trying to figure out how to fix it, and it led me to this video. Can you help me figure out what my engine bay is missing? I took a video of my engine bay without the airbox where I try to compare what you show in your video after 4:57 against what I have. What I have it completely different, I can't even see the parts you interact with. Could you take a look at the video of my engine bay? (unlisted video) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q4EylqRsxqM.html
Definitely seems like you’re missing something. I believe a couple of the forums have a nice cad rendering of the back of the engine with the evap parts highlighted. I’d start there for a good definition of stock, then figure out what you have hooked to what
Look at the boost between the initial run and 2nd run...that 2nd run it's on boost longer at a solid 15 and the 3rd it bumps to a 16 and still holds. Interesting it stayed on boost longer even with the IAT higher on 2nd run vs 1st run.
Mattias Filander the Venturi is hooked to the charge side of the turbo. The compressed charge from the turbo is what is being used to drive the Venturi. So it is literally a boost leak being plugged
Mattias Filander The Venturi creates a vacuum which is used to draw fuel vapor from the EGR canister. On most cars, normal crankcase vacuum is used for this. On our cars, which stay in boost for long periods, it was thought not to be enough. This mod eliminates the Venturi, and plugs the egr directly into the intake
Yours is the only vid where the wastegate actuator doesn't get disconnected from the wastegate then turned by hand; never knew it could be done just twisting it like that.
So I'm sitting here trying to figure this out. As you can see on the video, there wasn't a whole lot of difference in what pressure actuated the wastegate. Logically my description has to be backwards, right? Opening sooner should leak easier and be slower. But that is what I said, and I'm faster. I tried re-watching the guage in the video, and I honestly cant tell if my description was right. The simplest explanation is that I got the description backwards in the video, and the WG is opening a little later (at a higher pressure). Its been so long, I'm not sure if I screwed up, or if there is something I'm missing. The only reason I'm not going to jump on "I got the description wrong" is that I wasn't trying to over-preload the WG, just bring it to factory spec. So while counter intuitive, I may have just made an extremely smart engine "happier" rather than cheated preload to avoid a WG leak.
Hi I was wondering for the turbo actuator is it 13mm on a 2016 abarth as well cuz I heard they changed the turbo !!! So now I’m very curious to check mine just want to make sure it’s the same thanks
Like all your videos! Got a question about the EGR mod. The EGR use manifold vacuum under low torque request(throttle almost closed). This is how emission is reduced upon cold start. During wide open throttle, manifold has no vacuum but boost, EGR valve should stay closed, so you won't lose any boost. I don't know much about this but I can't see when could you lose boost without this mod. Can you shed some light?
@@mcappleish can you explain it to me? I bought a used Fiat 500 Abarth and the EGR tube is suspiciously missing. So I want to know if I should buy the missing parts and return to stock.
Wow what a very well done video! I’m only halfway into it and I’m impressed.you should have more subs for sure.thanks for taking the time to do this thorough test.subscribed! Looking forward to digging into your other videos and I haven’t even purchased an abarth yet.currently my hot hatch is a mk7 gti
I used this: Tefen Nylon 66 Hose Fitting, Wye, Gray, 3/8" Hose ID (Pack of 10) www.amazon.com/dp/B006OGBS96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Bnjpd6xtdVEDY With 3/8 Id fuel hose.
The vacuum is driven by a Venturi. The Venturi is driven by boost. That boost travels through the Venturi, and is dumped into the intake. That boost going into the intake instead of the engine is the “leak”. In this mod, that leak is plugged, so the boost leak is plugged, but now the vacuum is gone. We hook up the EGR to the intake, which has some vacuum when you are off boost. So for most city driving, that works well. For long highway trips, you are sitting in boost for a long time, and that can generate P1CEA codes when a vacuum is not detected often enough
@@upstatetyler2380 Well, I still haven’t found anyone who has had any actual problems from the code. And the performance gain is actually significant. So if occasionally resetting a code is worth the gain to you, do it. If not, don’t. To me it’s worth it.
Great installation vid! I noticed on the forums you eventually got a p1cea cel from the boost leak mod. Did you manage to get it fixed with a new intake or a different check valve/location?
Savvy I cleared it a few times. Since going to the ATM fender well intake I haven’t had any. I have an upcoming mod for a way to close the boost leak without any codes, but it’s not free. I’ll be trying that out in a few weeks. Seems to be people with lots of highway time who are most likely to get the code
@@EveryOtherFridayOffThanks for the lightning reply! As long as the code doesn't affect anything, clearing it (if it shows up) once in a while is no big deal. Looking forward to your newer vids and the gains you got from the true CAI + FMIC.
@@EveryOtherFridayOffOh one more question about the waste gate adjustment. I see on the forums that people suggest adding 4 to 6mm preload. Is that something you recommend? Or just make sure it is the 13mm factory spec.
Savvy Factory was good enough for me. If I added more, I would expect an immediate gain. But I don’t understand the long term effect. My guess is that the ECU compensates after a while. I should test that sometime
@@EveryOtherFridayOff Yeah, I might try out an extra 4mm when I have time to do the mod. Getting an oft soon as well. Are you in the oft Abarth Facebook group? There's a couple members there doing better and quicker tunes than shiv.
When adding extra horsepower to cars, you should also consider if the transmission and engine can handle the added horsepower. But this Fiat is smaller and lighter than most cars so that maybe be a great opportunity to add some more horsepower. my car is a little bigger than the fiat 500 with 98 horsepower and i think its fast enough for me, had it been bigger and heavier then i think it would have been slower.
At the time of this video, I had a garbage product that came with the car. I doubt it was any better than stock. I have since moved to an ATM fender well intake (see intercooler video) which is much better.
I had to clear the check engine light twice, hasn’t been back for a long while. I have a ridiculously over complicated method that I will be showing in the future that probably isn’t worth it but should be completely check engine light free.
Please show the method to eliminate the light. My is reoccuring and it drives me nuts. Do you remember the code you were getting? I want to be sure the code is from the upgrade. Thanks
Yes. For me it’s basically no codes until I do a lot of highway driving, at which point, I get it. I’m working on an overly elaborate fix, hopefully for spring
Now you have the ole wheels turning, (l0l) so the system is sensing an evap flow/leak? Soooo, being this is an evap code it shouldn't derate or cause any performance issues?
@@laplantski Right. Code is from not enough vacuum. If the evap canister was completely blocked off or seeing no vacuum at all, it would eventually fuel soak and be destroyed. I don’t think this mod actually risks that, but since our vacuum is coming from the intake rather than the Venturi, it’s not consistent enough for the ecu. Especially sitting on a little boost for long periods on the highway
@@EveryOtherFridayOff Hello, first off I want to thank you for posting all of your DIY videos on the Abarth, they have helped me a ton! Also I was wondering if you have an update on that overly elaborate fix for the boost leak mod that won't cause any CEL's and if you are also planning to post a video on it? Thanks.
I did this mod and my car ran for about 16 seconds then a loud blow happened and now no boost. Worked it back to factory and still no boost. Something bad has happened because of the re-route around the Venturi actuator
Are you sure you are back to factory? Sorry to hear you are having problems. I haven’t heard any issue like this before. Fiat500owners.com has helpful people and information on loss of boost pressure troubleshooting. A loud pop sounds like a hose popping off. Unfortunately, quite a few connections you need to check are pretty hard to get to
Every Other Friday Off a few hours of searching returned no answers for where the boost leak could be. I’m thinking it has to do with one of the tubes I was touching/ working with. In the video, you have an OEM “T” fitting with two ends capped off. This line runs straight from the intake manifold, if I’m not mistaken. To me, I think it popped off the intake plenum leaving a large hole for boost to leak out of. I’ll have to check again tomorrow to make sure all the lines are plugged. Car not throwing codes. Extreme limp mode. Will not go past 60mph. Very loud whining noise upon acceleration, like running an open turbo
That would be the most simple explanation. That “oem t” is the Venturi. That line should be the only charged line you were messing with. Unfortunately, battery and battery tray need to be removed to get to the far side. Good luck, sorry you’re having problems. I’d love to hear back when you get it fixed.
Every Other Friday Off from my research, it doesn’t seem like that’s where the problem is. The line I’m talking about routes directly to the back of the intake plenum, at a 90 degree bend (not the line to the air intake ducting). I have also removed the battery tray before and can confirm that the charge pipe is in 100% functioning condition, as well as the lines that lead to the charge pipe underneath the battery tray. They are all in good shape. I still haven’t been able to get back around to it, but I still believe my error to be that line that routes off the back of the intake plenum. Kind of hard to see, but very easy to feel with ur hands. I will get back to you on Monday with more research. Do you have a more direct method I can reach you at? This problem is really eating away at me. Would like to know ur thoughts.
The wastegate has a single airline running to it. Disconnect this, plug in your own airline to the wastegate. I added a tee to this line. On one side of the tee, I hooked up an accurate pressure gauge (1 psi matters). The other end was hooked to my compressor. I used a spray nozzle on the compressor so I could give quick blasts of air
If I recall, the EC instructions do not tie the EGR back into the intake, but just leave the exhaust open through a filter. That seems less good to me. The EGR needs a vacuum to evacuate it. The intake isn't always vacuum, so its not perfect, but still seems better than atmosphere. What I showed was the Tork version. I think this, along with using a Y rather than a T, is less prone to check engine lights.
@@EveryOtherFridayOff awesome and does it have to be a y fitting ? Because it's hard to find in San Antonio. I have to order and by the time because this whole coronavirus stuff going on... If no to a t fitting why not ? Just wondering
The y theory comes from a long thread on fiat500usa forum. The idea is that a smooth flow is going to reduce check engine lights. I ordered mine from amazon. The small power gains should be identical with a t, but the thinking is that check engine lights will be more frequent.
@@EveryOtherFridayOff hey I really appreciate you communicating with me last questions . What size of hose did you use ? And will this be good as a Y ? www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB2638
I don't have enough miles on it to say, and I haven't heard that. I would think the bigger concern would be going lean under a "higher" boost. However, peak boost really didn't change much, the boost just came in sooner. So I imagine the ECU is handling AFR's as normal. I can't think of how else this would affect AFR's. Anyone else have an idea?
