Yeah and they are better than Crosshead/Phillips head screws. And slipping with hex screws is easy. And don't get me stated on slit heads/shoulder head screws I've eliminated all of them at home.
Don’t knock torx screws just because you lack the tools. They should be looked at as a welcome upgrade as they are fundamentally better than hex or Phillips.
People complained so much about stripping bolts on Clubsport Pedals. Switching to Torx is the best thing they could to. Anyone complaining can go kick rocks.
I'm not sure changing the head is the solution there. The real issue is they come from the factory done up so tight and with excessive amounts of loctite on them that you can destroy a screwdriver handle trying to undo them. (I know, because I did.) They just need to fix their assembly process. It's perplexing why they've done them so tight / used so much loctite, as well, since things like the pedal face screws are not in a situation where they need to be tight or will have any forces applying torque to them. They aren't going to come undone by themselves if installed with only moderate force, so I don't know why they do it. (Maybe the side ones are different, but it doesn't explain the face ones.)
@@jmurr357 As a person that has come from years of experience removing screws from vintage Japanese bikes most people do not understand just how helpful an impact driver can be for breaking screws loose without damaging the screw heads even phillips head! You can buy a cheaper impact driver for less than about $15 and with one well placed sharp rap most of your too tight, stuck or hard to get loose screws are now a piece of cake! One of the best additions anyone can make to their tool set.
yay you survived the edit marathon!! great work again, a solid maybe you say, think i need to find a stage coach to "borrow" from . informative and fun , top marks sir nice.
@@ChrisHaye I'm listening while I'm at work and I got a notification for the CSL DD video from Boosted Media, then your back-to-back videos came not long after so I was like "Aw shit, my notifications are gonna be flooded. 😂"
May the Lord bless my hustle. I genuinely need these pedal set as well as the CSL DD. Great video Chris. Loved the smoke😁. I cannot buy you coffee yet, but I'm not skipping any ads. Quality stuff.
I don’t understand how you don’t have way more subs like I get sim racing is a niche market but your video quality is so high that even if I wasn’t interested I’d probably still watch
Can't wait to upgrade later on this year. I'll be coming from a G29 wheel, logi pedals, shifter, VR headset and playseat challenge. Has been an absolute blast with this setup but I'd love the higher quality of a DD wheel.
I'm wondering this too, also hall sensors are so much better than potentionmeter sensors, practically maintenance free. I have to spray contact cleaner into my pots once in a while to get rid of the jittery pedal input.
Reviews on new Fanatec hardware always seems great and give you the "I wanna buy it now" kinda feeling. Looking for the same review after one year of usage (in the case you succeed to reach that long). Anyway, thx for sharing
These look like a reskin of the old one, except the old CSL Elites have steel pedals, with removable rubber pads. Just get the load cell brake if you didn't before they discontinue it.
@@youdontneedtoknowmyname4417 Nicht jede Kreuzschraube ist eine Phillipskopfschraube. Gibt ja noch mehr Profillarten als Phillips. Ist eher sowas wie bei uns im deutschen zu sagen gib mir mal das Zewa.
Thank you for taking the time to review this new pedal set. Surprising they sent them out with out the load as per rumor if they can ship a load cell pedal set for $ 200.00 I have to think they are going to fly off the shelves. Lastly is it possible to put a stronger after market spring in the throttle ?
A definite maybe. That about sums up my feelings on these pedals. I was considering them to replace my CSLE LC pedals, but I think I am either going to hold out for a set of CSP V4's (if it happens) or go further up market. I have a little more time on the current CSLE LCs so I am not in a rush.
Great video as usual Chris! You've made it an artform. That said, I do wish they came with loadcells as standard, as they are the golden standard of sim racing brake performance ( of course forgoing hydraulics only accessible by those with the thickest wallets and supply of brake fluid - I hope I get there one day ). It'd be a stretch to wish for loadcell brakes to be standardised across most brands, but I see how haul effect sensor pedal sets allow pedal sets to be sold at more budget friendly price ranges.
Hey Chris, was the throttle spring as light as the CSL Elite pedals or is it an improvement? I never went for the CSL Elite pedals due to the bad load cell design and the weak throttle spring. Cheers
Torx is becoming more and more common as well. Especially in the automotive world, torx is a necessary bit. I think people just gotta suck it up and just spend the extra small bit for a torx bit.
Old but i just replaced my elites for these they are way lighter and way more comfterble for the sock brigade the baseplate is also slightly shorter so my feet fit more on the edge of the plate to press the pedals way more comfterble than the elites imo My only complaint is the mounting points changed and im using a fantec setup on a wheelstand pro for a g29 there was literaly nowhere to put hardware and the pedals are held in place by a tight web of zipties all because i dont want to spend another $150 us on a new stand that i probably wont have space fore
Most people should have Torx at home. A set of bits isn't that expensive and Torx is simply the best screw head there is. They almost never strip, require no downward force to keep seated, and have well standardized sizing.
I mean the fact they are a high resolution pedal compared to the t3pas I have now is enough and currently doing research on what base and wheel I want to go with these. T3pas are low res and you can see it when watching telemetry.
Not so sure the squeaking is just down to being preproduction, given that my V3 throttle is squeaking so loudly that someone else noticed it over voice chat and immediately knew what it was :D
Awesome vid as usual! I always hear the load cell brake does the most to improve a player's sim racing performance. If you had to give a percentage how much this current brake pedal would help your 'game' compared to a load cell what would you estimate?
Good and fair review. On one hand it sounds interesting on tge other hand I have a moddable T3PA-PRO set. Guess it depends on the cost for the LC Version. On the brake mods for potentiometer pedals have you ever tried the 3drap brake mods? They have quite a decent lift off feel. Same as the GTEYE sorings for the Logitech G Series.
Great video. Just curious as I’m considering buying into the fanatic ec eco system. As I’m starting from scratch the price looks like it’s starting to mount as the cost of the pedals a wheel and obviously the new fanatec dd motor. How much would all this cost together?
I have trhustmaster t128 and i am planning to buy playseat evolution pro. Should I upgrade with these pedals and csl steering wheel gt and csl dd? My budget is 800 eur.
How does the spring weight on the clutch kit compare to the brake pedal? Since the brake can be repurposed as a clutch, does that mean they have the same spring?
Does anybody know how to fix a fluctuating load cell brake??? I just opened these and this issue was already there 😭😭😭 it gets worse as I turn down the pressure sensitivity, if anyone knows how to fix it please help.
I think I’m gonna upgrade to these pedals from my CSL elite pedals for the sole reason that they use Hall effect instead of pots. Already have on pot dying on me after 6 months of use
You can buy, cheaply, conversion kits to Hall Sensors for the current CSL pedals. Quick bit of GoogleFu and you'll be golden (and have a better bit of kit, tbh...).
Hello Chris, hey guys! I bought the G29 and I loved it, started with it my sim racing exp., but I wanted to know from you something that I was told, I was said that if I slow down the feedback force in the wheel (like in GT Sport on PS4 or the Logitech app on PC) it can broke or ruim the wheel engine, like when you put super loud sound in a weak audio output, is that true? Do you have any advice to make the wheel last longer? I hope you understand my message, eng is not my strong or first language. Cheers
Would you use these pedals with no rig? Need a "mobile" setup because I travel a lot but dont know how or If I could make them keep in place, especially when braking. Thanks!
Why is impossibile to know when the load cell pedal will be available? I order the csl dd but I can't order the new pedals. Now I can order the new pedals payng the shipping coast again and later, when the load cell will be available, i have to pay the shipping cost again.
What a shame to point out torx screws as a negativ thing. 🤔 Torx is the best. Fanatec even provided a tool, so whats the point here??? I dont get it. Its just amazing that they use Torx instead of hex, they should get a reward for that....🤗
The first thing I did with my Elite LC pedals was remove the sponge & add another block. It made the LC work 100% better. But compromise is that there is hardly any travel. How would this solution work in this situation tho?
Im quite new in simracing, currently i have T150 pro and im considering to order that new CSl pedals. I assume that i will have to also order that Clubsport USB adapter to connect pedals to my PC. If so, Hall sensor will work only on 8bit (like older csl when connected via adapter), and not on 12 bit?
Not sure about the bitrate actually, that wasn't covered in teh documentation I have. I'll go back and check that one. As for the adaptor, yeah it's either that or wait for the Load-Cell upgrade, which comes with USB connectivity.
A little confused. If one were to get the loadcell, they wouldn't need the wheel? I ask because (like may others) I'd rather upgrade pedals before wheel.
if you get the loadcell brake pedal then you can just use the non loadcell brake that comes standard with the csl pedals as your clutch pedal. If you are on PC then you can use the CSL loadcell pedals with any wheel from any brand.
So at 4:01 he says they only connect to a Fanatec wheel base, dumb question, but does that mean you cannot use it with any other brand that isn't Fanatec??
Yes you can use the clubsport v3s. Not sure why you thought you couldn't. And yes you can mix match hardware such as shifter assuming you are on PC and have the necessary adapters to ensure they plug into the PC rather than into the wheel base
So, if you have a Fanatec Wheelbase, you can just plug it into there, with the provided RJ12 cable. The wheelbase then connects to the PC via USB. If you aren't using a Fanatec wheelbase, then you will need an RJ12 to USB adapter box, which Fanatec makes, or, once the Load Cell kit comes out, that will feature a normal USB connection (most likely Type B).
I would buy these, since they are Hall sensors and not potentiometers. Then wait for the CSL Pedal LC kit and move the old brake over to make it a 3 pedal system. Kind of like a "budget" V3 pedal set. And if price is any indicator, the Elite LC Kit may even be more expensive than the CSL LC kit, when it comes out. I bought a set of these pedals as backup to my V3's. I'll add the CSL LC kit when it becomes available.
I love this channel but I will *not* stand for this Torx slander! Maybe I'm going a bit far but personally I'm of the opinion that everything should be either E-Torx or Torx (depending on the fastener in question). Hex is too easy to mess up, and don't even get me started on Phillips
@@ChrisHaye would somewhat suck if it isnt but wouldnt surprise me, recently found a LC kit for cheap so if it isnt compatible i can prob resell them for most of what i paid, cheers
@@DonutTV The older CSL Elite pedal set is still a good pedal set and if you have those I would not upgrade to the "new" Elite pedal set. I still have a set of those that I keep as a back up in case I ever have a problem with the clubsport v3 pedals and have to order a part or something. If you want to upgrade from the original Elite pedals and stay in the Fanatec eco system the Clubsport V3 pedal set with the load cell brake is a great upgrade. Yes they cost more but the quality of the construction in my opinion definitely justifies their higher price point.
Oh sorry, first he says later on that he didn't try the LC yet and second everyone is free in his choices and I shouldn't have said "mistake" but "suggestion" for example.
At this price point, they're going to be out of stock for the near future. The value is there, if the build quality is up to snuff. Sneaky of Fanatec to make them Fanatec compatible ONLY out of the box. It'll definitely push most people into buying a Fanatec wheel or upgrading to Load cells.
i love that there budget option still costs close too 1000 dollars. its 350 for the base. then 200 for a wheel then 200 for pedals. then 200 for a shifter then 200 for an e brake.
Bro did he really just knock torx? Does he not realize the past issues lol man oh man what a thing to say because you don't have tools lol I think it's the smartest thing they did tbh and the sensor of course but I love these pedals I can't wait to get my hands on them lol also that rubber stopper is way better then past it actually gives lol but I will buy the load cell when it comes out I just think these pedals are nice man lol I'm not going to fork out the money for v3 lol
Not knocking torx my dude, it's clearly superior. Just saying that higher quality fittings would have been my preference over changing to a less accessible fastner. Every other manufacturer manages it.
Chris, Question if i were to buy the Clubsport pedals V3 would i be able to remove the clutch pedal. push the brake pedal to the left further away from the Excelerator and just have the two pedals on a more expensive set for aesthetic reasons? i only play F1 games on my rig, these new two petals sets look cheap and dingy Pease HELP!!
![Testing the new Fanatec CSL Pedals [First Look]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
