Had same problem, tore block apart and found that mahindra had only put two shims in, the mechanics manual shows that there is supposed to be four shims in block. Called mahindra dealer, who then called mahindra. They stated that the normal home owner didn’t need tractor to run at peak performance for normal home owner. I think they didn’t it so they wouldn’t have a lot of warranty issues from somebody over using the tractor. I ordered shims and fixed, it does better now
i have never had trouble with the permatex thread sealer like that....i use on hydraulic fittings with no problems.....odd. i have a couple frame cuts stuffed in the back of a box truck....door opening is narrower than the axle hubs....it was interesting getting it in there. there are not light for sure!
I think you have to let it dry overnight to seal. Same thing happened to me when i put it on fittings on air brake fittings.most jobs i don't have time to let it sit overnight so i just use teflon tape or gasoila thread sealant thats good for all sorts of petroleum liquid and says rated up to 10,000 psi .I had better luck with them. Look into gasoila pipe thread some good stuff that serve you well.
Here's something to think about. This is an example. Let's say you have a 4" diameter cylinder with a 1½ diameter push rod running with a 3000 psi system. If you apply hydraulic pressure to the push rod side of the piston, it will have less force than applying hydraulic pressure to the other side of the piston. You lose surface area of the push rod; in this example, 12.5 sq in vs 7 sq in on the push rod side giving you about 56% of the capacity. You might try this as an experiment: Flip the hydraulic cylinder(s) end for end (push rod facing up) to see if you have a better lifting capacity. It may not be possible if there are mounting issues that will prevent this experiment. You still want to stay within the lifting limitations due to structural issues.
Hydraulic cylinders have more power extending than retracting. The orientation of the cylinder wouldn't matter. It has to extend to lift regardless of whether it's upside down or not.
I have a mahindra 5145 that the hydraulic actuator messed up, the replaced it and now it seems weak to lifting/ tilting the bucket. idk if it's adjustable like yours is or if it's just gotten an air bubble after they replaced it.
The hose and the to tractor connection are good. What about the gauge itself. If it's a bottom of the market piece, the threads can be out of round and not seat square...Leak! Like a Craftman 5/8 wrench is a wrench too, but Mac or Snap On grab true, less knuckle trouble when you working in close space sometime.
Hi there! Don't know if someone mentioned this previously, but hydraulic fitting threads are not, NPT. They are close, and can often be fastened together, but will leak if mismatched. Ran into this many years ago on a home-built log splitter. Thanks.
Hydraulic NPT fitting are NPT unless you are trying to mis-match JIC or ORB fittings. I started working on bucket trucks 53 years ago and fittings have not changed since I started. There are, however, cheaply made fittings that are threaded with worn out dies and taps. Always try to buy quality name brand fittings. Thread tape is the only way to go on hydraulic fittings. Paste thread sealers just cannot withstand the pressure no mater if the have Teflon Paste fibers in it or not. Hydraulic old will dilute most plumbing and automotive thread sealers. The trick with Teflon tape is to always leave the first thread exposed, with no tape on it. When replacing a fitting you must clean, remove, all of the existing pipe tape (and I mean all) before installing the replacement fitting. I use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to clean the male fittings and an O-ring pick and plumbers fitting brush to clean the female fittings. If we don't do our work correctly we can't expect acceptable results.
Did your adjustment work? I understand you increased the pressure measured by the gauge, but can you now lift the heavy truck clip you were trying to lift?
I’d love to know the same although I think even with increasing the pressure the FEL pistons are cheap and weak! Probably will only make a small difference in lift capacity to get it back to the pivot point spec but with the added weight of the bucket it may be at the same issue. Tractor specs are bullshit without factoring in the bucket or forks weight in. Like who the hell is going to use a front end loader without the attachment that it came with?! Why have one to being with.
Ok I never tried this one :) thanks for coming over to my talk on America but youtube is just dickered this month as I can see comments but some like yours I cant respond to. Cheers bud.
Permatex thread sealant is good for air line fittings. Hydraulic stuff, there is a greenish colored compound that works well. I've heard it called blue block, where I work we started using gasolia thread sealant and it seems to work well.
I primarily use the blue monster sealant anymore for everything. But as mentioned prior to this post, a bad fitting will leak unless you use some filler as in teflon tape.
I always use 2 to 3 wraps of teflon tape and keep it off the first thread or two. It is not to seal the joint...it is for lubrication and eases tightening which seals every time for me.
what different HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT FLOW RATE 50 LITERS and 38 Liters? how best? what different ? i don understand why the same tractor have 38 liters and 43+50 LITERS. work fast or what....
My 2017 2538HST is just a weak! The dealer checked the pump pressure for the loader and said it was in specs! Looks I got sold a tractor full of shit! It’s a horrible tractor all the way around! Their videos about do more pull more lift more are bullshit! Hydrostatic power is also weak! I’ll never buy that brand again! The sad part is I did my homework and compared all the numbers and still got a junk tractor!
@@markcole6475 is there any way to find out what the actual psi range of the cylinders are? I don’t want to damage anything. I’d also like to know what the pump pressure should be set to.
@@josemejia6645 I’ve been told 3000 psi is the danger zone for most tractor hydraulics in this category ….like compact and sub compact tractors . My compact tractors have been factory set around the 2000 psi range! Little under to a little over! I’ve set 2 of my tractors to 2500 psi and haven’t had any problems . No blown hoses or seals or any seepage from joints or seals. Granted I don’t use max pressures all the time but on occasion I do need that extra lift power! I’ve see no official max ratings but most people say to keep pressures 2500 or less.
@@josemejia6645 I just did some searching on google and found some factory specs on PSI ratings for the L series tractors. 2349 PSI seems to be the common factory specs from kubota! Found multiple manuals saying the same thing! I’ve got mine set just a tad under 2500 psi….. When I picked up my 3902 HST it was set just under 2100 psi….. I believe these are set low for safety reasons for those people that don’t use ballast on their tractors or know when to use ballast!
Pushing pressures to or over max PSI doesn't sound like a good idea. "I don't know... I think", etc used in conjunction with high pressure hydraulic systems doesn't sound like a good way to be safe or prevent premature hydraulic system failure.
Enjoyed your video, very informative. As for the leaking gauge connection use Teflon tape avoiding the first two threads then apply the liquid sealant. The tape and the liquid sealant combination provide greater sealing and prevent galling of the threads when making and breaking connections.
