for #3 just try a standard pregerminated process - for fescue its 5 days with 2 daily water changes. mixed with milorganite for easier spreading. Its the only way to go if you want to guarantee germination on expensive blue label seed. I redid my parents front lawn with Ryan Knorr's elite Tall Fescue. With the pregermination process. Grass come out in 2 days. On the Lawn Forums, for KBG its the only way, since you can control the 21 day germination period - do it indoors in august - and do a fall seeding by september
@@TheLawnReview it went well. Temps kept hovering around 50F for the month of april that slowed the growth. Two weeks ago I hit it with a round of Scotts starter fertilizer, fungal control which really pushed a flush of top growth. This weekend im gonna do an application of PGR (plant grown regulator) to reduce the top growth and focus on root development. Its an el nino summer, any growth in the plant should focus going down - Especially with TTTF which is know for its deep roots
Being in middle Tennessee as well I’m curious how you manage your mowing and irrigation. They say that tall fescue is a cool season grass and clearly the summers are not cool here, I know that that generally means that it grows in spring and fall, but does that mean that you cut back on cuts in the summer? I know I certainly would appreciate that information! Also, I am planning a small renovation of my side yard this fall and I’m curious what your favorite seed is? I saw you used Scott’s in this video, but I’ve also seen Penningtons in your previous videos, do you have a go to? I have some Penningtons currently but I don’t really have any brand specific loyalty.
Hey Chewbert! Thanks for the comment and question! Very timely question as I’m about to put out a video on this next Sunday. But I’ll go ahead and let you know what I do, a great way to keep your lawn green throughout the summer is obviously consistently mow high (with tall fescue turf) because taller blades means longer roots. But longer roots doesn’t necessarily mean deeper roots. You’re going to have to water regularly but infrequently and for very long durations starting about early June. I water once or twice a week early in the morning for about 45 mins per zone. Ends up being a good bit of water and time. But those good soaking waters will help draw those roots deeper into the soil. So the real secret is combining mowing high and long waters once or twice a week. Watering everyday will actually hurt you in the long run if you’re not trying to keep new seed alive. Sorry if that seemed like a stream of consciousness… it was hahaha. I like Ryan Knorr’s stuff. Or GCI turf. Both those guys put out REALLY high quality stuff which will help with the aforementioned steps!
@@TheLawnReview cheers man! Yeah I can do early waters, that would work fine! I am familiar with mow high, that’s also a good tip! I appreciate the other bigger lawn tubers but honestly Ryan Knorrs stuff feels pretty elitist and every video he makes he recommends products or hardware that costs many hundreds of dollars so he’s more of “more than just a hobby” kind of RU-vidr imo 😂
Kentucky blue takes weeks to germinate under ideal conditions...toilet paper added not so sure...maybe one of those cheaper grass seeds may have germinated quicker, usually annual seed which is just for color and nothing else
I've done the spiral mow, thinking the same thing about cutting down on time. You do need to be careful to not push down on the mower handle or you get an uneven cut and it doesn't look so good.
He already knew it was stupid. It wasn’t his idea to do that. He was following the TikTok videos, were you not paying attention and watching the premise of this whole video?
the open chute is just dumb, dangerous, dirty and covers your feet with dirt...now if they had a deflector to kick out to the side like my EGO does, then I would say he had something but the stick across the opening to keep the door up is plain wrong
#2 Wut?? Charles and dad Winston need to stick to fish and chips. Folks have been mowing bag off, hatch closed to “transplant” the blades for half a century, but without the risk and mess.
