Are there any quality books to read and learn suspension layout and mathematical 2 dimensional layout as well as adjusting and designing caster camber bumpsteer elimination. That you recommend. I'm a total noooob to this stuff but its very interesting.
Despite you saying the look of jig welds doesn’t matter, you still make good welds even in that. That’s the mark of a true craftsman & exemplifies why I can’t get enough of these vids.
Here's a some tips on the machining: 1) For steel, get yourself a gallon of dark sulfured cutting oil, for aluminum, use Mineral Spirits. Both are available at Home Depot, but might have to mail-order gallons of oil. There needs to be a film of oil continuously throughout the cut, not just dripped on once or twice. 2) There's a couple ways to apply cutting oil: it's more wasteful, but very easy if you use a chemical-resistant spray bottle, the kind with an adjustable nozzle. You just need a thin stream. Or, you can use a magnetic parts bowl and a cheap one-inch "chip brush" to keep the surface oiled. You kind of need both - the spray bottle works better for parting cuts. 3) Parting: A) Parting tools need to be precisely on the lathe headstock axis! B) never ever use a center when parting. C) parting requires *A LOT* of oil. D) part at low RPM and higher pressure. E) You want a curl, not a bunch of chips. F) Break the curl off -- don't let it ball up in the cut! G) Google how to sharpen cut-off tools and keep'm sharp, a dull cut-off tool will break because it can't cut the full width of the blade. 4) Drilling - always use a pilot drill the same width or bigger than the center web of the larger drill bit. 5) In general, get a reprint of HTRAL! South Bend's How To Run A Lathe. They're dead cheap and a classic for beginners. Read it twice a year for 3 years!!! You'll learn something new every time.
Hey man, you've taught me how to tig weld at age 65 and I'm even starting to take some welds out in public. Actually spending more time welding than tungsten grinding now and I thank you very much. Your a smart guy with your brain wired for fabrication and design. And you know what else ? I think you love doing what you do and you're having a blast everyday, and that my friend is the way to live a life. Take care.
Bro you are the man I’m from nsw australia I own a 1996 Mitsubishi Lancer 1.5 5sp manual turbo (turbo manifold and figment was all done and made by myself) I’m 19 years old and a second year apprentice boilermaker majority of the time I’m just making things for the mines but I also make some smaller scale stuff with sheet and all that bit of tig but mainly mig at the moment but I will be definitely following this build considering just last night I was searching around for awhile for after market lca’s and couldn’t find a single thing definitely going to give this a go not many people would be able to say this but I was following and understanding every step you took and for being from a country that is based on metric I feel I did pretty well haha
Learned drafting a few years before AutoCAD for the PC was created, so graphical layout was how I learned. This is absolute gold - the theory behind the work is SO helpful. Thank you again!!
Same here! I took some kind of drafting course in school (pencil and paper. Or vellum) every year from 7th grade til I graduated in 1980. Then I took my machinist trade at a local company. Later (in 1992) my company sent me to the local Jr. College to learn AutoCAD. Did that for 14 years designing industrial computer housings. I LOVED designing something in (virtual) AutoCAD space and then sending drawings out to machine shops, having all the finished parts come back and come together into an actual, physical thing THAT ACTUALLY WORKED! Most satisfying thing I have EVER done!
Dude, this is some gold for someone who wants to get into hobby fabrication, you took something that could be dry and had to understand and made it click in a 24 min video. Thank you.
Part-off tools can be tricky. Some things I’ve learned: 1) make sure they’re on-center. Use a small piece of, say, sheet brass shim, and pinch it between the tool and workpiece. It should be straight up-and-down… 2) you need a good rigid setup. 3) steady flow of cutting oil or similar. Ideally, a steady two or three drop per second. 4) a fresh edge on the tool helps. You’ll wish about a 5 degree angle on the tip, *so that when you part a piece off, it will minimize the side of the “nubbin” on the part.*
A trick we use on measuring center to center on bolt holes, you pick left or right which way your going to measure it. So you measure off the left of your bolt hole, measure across it to the left of the other bolt hole your measuring to. As you can do the same from the right depending on the space you have some times. If you have two transfer punches that will fit the holes you insert that point up and measure from point to point.
Holy crap those words and terms and numbers are just flying at us, haha. That's a lot to catch in one watch, pretty overwhelming. BUT, and this is important, it's all precious information and if you have to back it up to catch it all you owe it to yourselves to do it. Once you get all the info written down or whatever, then you can process it better, then watch it one more time and you'll start to catch on to what he's doing, when he's doing it, and why it's being done. That's when you start to learn what we're all here to learn. And he teaches it good.
High speed steel and carbide parting tools require a flood of coolant, chucked close to the headstock and no center when parting steel. Aluminum wont show as much of the chatter and binding but it's still there.. get some cutting fluid in a spray bottle and douse your parting channel after taking your live center out and you wont bind the tool and break it. Also noticed on another video you are facing and center drilling your part inches from your chuck. To make sure you have an accurate center and to not brake tools, chuck the workpiece up as close to the chuck as you are comfortable, face it, center drill it and then pull the piece out to re chuck for working on the side. Good informative videos brother. Keep it up!
Thanks for the tips. The biggest problem I have is the spindle bore is tiny. Not much fits through it so I'm kinda stuck dealing with it. The chuck is really worn out as well which I still need to replace.
@@TheFabricatorSeries I feel your pain, my lathe at home is a small bench with a tiny bore, another option is getting a steady rest to throw on and will keep your run out to a minimum. That's what I do and it gets you close enough. Do you have any review videos on the everlast multi process machines? I'm ready to move on from my antiquated dialarc and 250 Miller and would love to see your thoughts on the everlast acdc stuff if you have any.. new to your channel and haven't had a chance to look yet.. lol
I can see your chuck has a bunch of runout. You might just want to regrind the jaws. That would probably make it more than good enough for what you do. You can do it with a dremel or die grinder and a small stone. Plenty of YT videos to show you the basics.
Great work!! Your parting tool broke because you had a centre still engaged. As the parting tool became deeper into the cut the long axis of the part, being pressed by the tool in the Y axis, bent and trapped the cutter as it entered the workpiece. This bound the tool and broke it. Always release the centre when parting, Cheers, Richard
@@iBLOODBATHproduction always fun when jackasses that know nothing other than what they learned in a classroom nitpick details and try to one up people teaching others how to actually do things. Richard could have called it the unicorn axis and the meaning would still be perfectly understood by anyone.
This is fascinating to me. Thank you so much for taking the time to go through it. Not dry at all, and I was captivated from the get go. F the haters, they’re just looking for shit to jerk it to. Never ceases to amaze me how folks can get angry about such minutia.
Every machinist in the world has the odd parting tool fail. Like some other guys have said, back off the tailstock, plan the job so you can part as close to the chuck as possible and use the least amount of tool stick out that will get the job done. Some lathes like parting, some don't. Great videos. Thanks
lets first say i'm not a lathe expert , but wat i learned in class was that when using a parting tool make the cut wider then the parting tool , basicly dig a shallow groove come back out move the tool slightly to the side and move in again depending on how deep you need to go do this a couple of times moving side to side while going in , this prevents the tool getting stuck in the groove when the cutting edge gets hot or the part cools down after oiling it
If a part is hanging way out of the chuck, I'll use tailstock for the bulk of the material but back it off before it's through. Parting blades are finicky and just a wee bit of misalignment and they break. Best use is close to chuck, and you're right.
And if it is heavy and hanging out, don't part all the way off. Part down to a 3/8" or 1/4" shaft left, and just chop thru that with the hacksaw. Gives you a better chance to catch the part too, rather than having it drop in the chip bin and possibly get dented.
I found the switching measurements quite funny as a guy at work used to measure in both on the same measurement Used to get “ cut me a bit 18” and 8mm “ so 266mm total
I love your work, this channel and how simple you make fabrication look. The only thing I would like to see is a video of fabrication that doesn't involve a mill, CNC or anything a typical homeowner wouldn't have. I'd even let you come to my house with just your hood and safety gear and fab anything you'd like with what I have.
Very informative. I had been considering buying tubular control arms for my 1990 Z32 300ZX but, after watching this series so far, I'm sure I can fabricate them myself for less and with the satisfaction of knowing I did the work myself! Thanks Justin, keep up the great work.👍💪
Great stuff man. Been a mechanic for 15 + and Fab isn't my strong point. Very helpful for the visual learner. Appreciate you taking the time for this video
Just for future reference what you built is a fixture, a Jig is some thing that guides or locates a tool a fixture is some thing that holds/locates the work. love your videos keep up the good work!!
this dude is fucking amazing!! paying attention to his work and listening to his theory it gaves me the chills and it motivate myself to start working on my own projects...thank god for persons like you that helps us all becoming better technicians every day i salute you!!
I put an Opel Gt front suspension underneath my 1980 Chevy Monza that I drag race and I had to make upper control arms. I wish your videos on this suspension project would've been around when I was doing this build. It definitely would of helped me out A LOT!! Keep up the awesome work and PLEASE keep cranking out vidjas :)!
Anyone that doesn't get into or love the design, layout and jig making of a project is not a real fabricator! We all have our own ways that we geek out on a project and the more you concentrate on the design of a project the better it will weld out. It is awesome to see how other people solve problems!
Honesty, that's a new approach on RU-vid! (Admitting your skill level at machining is fantastic, I wish more people would follow your lead.) Love your work. The technical is what most of us are here to see, keep it up. Don't worry about the haters. Your tig skills are absolutely amazing, I keep thinking if I watch it often enough something might transfer to my brain... no luck yet. How about doing a video with NYCCNC guy. Your welding and fab skills with his CNC knowledge would be amazing!
Love 2-D layout that's how I learned 19years ago still use it to this day. But like you said it is a pain in the ass to have to explain it to someone else
good to see a video where a person actually knows what they're doing , lots of fab vids on RU-vid are really hard to watch all the way through... been fabbin 46 years now , good to see younger people learn the trade...yeah , me too , not a machinist , only do the EZ stuff
Great video. I really enjoy watching videos of actual fabrication, not just laying beads. I do have one suggestion. When you back out your lathe cutting tool, always back it away from the material first. It is a good habit to get into. If you were making the bushing out of steel, going backwards with a carbide insert can cause it to chip, rendering it useless. It only takes that one time to bite you. Hope you show more on A.O. Smith welder.
This is excellent. I do just enough fabrication to prove how bad I am at it, and I learned a good deal from this video alone. I look forward to watching the rest of your stuff.
Your explanations would put a few of my EE undergrad professors to shame. Great work! Also, that was a great point about CAD. It's an invaluable tool, but I (and others I've seen) have sometimes spent more time futzing about with the software than it would have taken to sketch the part on paper (or your work bench) and just use good old geometry to work out the rest. A control arm isn't a head - it doesn't have to be within 1e-3 inches. (I also love my CNC router, but sometimes the table saw is a better, although less entertaining, tool.) It's great to see a smart guy, with great presentation skills, making go-fast parts. I'm glad I stumbled upon your channel.
Absolutely love this video Justin, fabricator and hotrod enthusiast and I learn a ton from these. Technical is good for this audience, your viewers I'd wager are above average or they wouldn't be able to tig worth a damn
I noticed a guy machining a really fancy part for a customer where the customer drawing had all the measurements in inches and all the tolerances in hundredths of a mm.
7:33 I do things like these with an angle grinder while it's still on a lathe. I just cut a groove for the disk to slide into and throw the spindle in reverse. Works like a charm.
Quick machining tip never part off while the live center is still in can cause the part to jam when cut off and bad things happen just let the part fall and part off as close to your Chuck as possible love the videos
In the general remark you made about measuring the distance between basically any hole centres, you are measuring between the inside "edges" of the holes and adding the 𝘳𝘢𝘥𝘪𝘶𝘴 𝘰𝘧 𝘣𝘰𝘵𝘩 𝘩𝘰𝘭𝘦𝘴. You said "add the diameter of one bolt hole" but that only applies if both holes are the same diameter. Nitpicking, yes but someone might miss the distinction. P.s. You have an excellent voice for this type of commentary; you could easily get work in the field if you get bored making stuff.
Just a heads up man, stop parting off with the tail stock in use. When it breaks through it's going to kink and break tools. Instead, after all the work is done on the part, move it back towards the chuck with minimal stick-out and part off there. You can use a pen or anything that will fit into the ID to "catch" the part as you're parting off. Keep up the good work man, love the vids.
A lot of people are mentioning not to use the tailstock when parting, in addition to that slow down the SFM/RPM significantly. i usually go to the slowest setting. been out of practice for a while but thats what i learned in school.
Thank you for this video. Been trying to learn this stuff the hard way and this has helped clarify a lot of silly issues I’ve run into when trying to do this kind of thing. Really enjoy your show. Been watching since season 1 when you were working out of your garage. Keep it up!
I’d say 20+ times the word Jig. Yea the definition is hard but people are interested in your work so comprehension may suffer some due to excitement of something new to many. To me I understand this technique layout and fab work is elementary but exhausting to others. That why we have you. But most important your narration while doing makes it understandable to all. That’s amazing. It took me years and hard work to learn what you make simple, and now-a-days you make it a snap. Me personally could not explaine what I am fabbing, I just do the work and get my pay check that’s my thank you.
Generally you do not part off between centers to prevent exactly what happened to you. Enjoyable vid, good work. Oh, and a Fixture holds the work, a Jig guides a tool (and can hold the work as well). If it guides a tool, its a JIG. If it holds the work, its a Fixture.
One thing I didn't hear you mention is that the side projection needs to be modified based on the angles of the top. Basically you need to cut the length of the hypotenuse + bend consumption for the tails to meet at the tube at the same spot. The same goes for the angle of the top and bottom planes with reference to the side plane.
This is awesome content sir, if you continue to have button strokers playing finger war about your work, I say forget those guys man, your the pro- keep doing you sir. I've always liked your consistency and work and the worst possible situations you recreate. I'm not a great welder but I love seeing your work and projects I will be subscribing to suport your work here soon keep up the awesome work
Layout might be boring, but great to learn the process from a pro. Drawing out even for a mental picture saves material, consumables and labour...three of you most expensive costs IMHO nice vids Glad I subscribed
Just found and subbed to this channel tonight and love the content man! Extremely helpful when someone goes into detail explaining the proper course of action and/or procedures involved in doing the respective work correctly. Was always intrigued by fab work and finally at a point where I can afford the time & costs associated with learning how to do it myself. Thanks for taking the time to teach us newbies how it's done! lol
If the strut pocket is slightly larger than the oe size, it wouldn't matter as long as it stays on center with the original. This would still ensure that the strut won't bind in it.
Incredibly great work 😍You should try lower or raise your carbide tip to center and your surface will be alot nicer. Try to up the speed on the lathe. You should get yourself a speed chart aswell if you dont have one, I got a good one if you want. Another thing is that you should not use your good caliper as a scraper. Ps. Paint with a blue thick marker on your surface before scraping so your marks are easier to see. Just some tips if you want😁👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome work! Really well done video, love the explanation. Just to clarify one thing though - a 1" difference on a suspension strut bolt hole will net slightly more than 1" drop at the wheel. It depends on the ratio between the strut mount and stub-axle/knuckle mount to the chassis mount. Some cars (like the lancer/mirage) have a very small motion ratio (0.9:1 or something), while others (Tacoma front, for example) have a much larger ratio (0.75:1) which means a 1" mount drop on a Tacoma will net closer to 1.5"-2" at the wheel. It's worth working out for the vehicle you're setting up. ;)
Awesome videos man, very well explained. Have helped me out a lot already and haven't even tried any welding after watching the videos, can't wait to test out some new stuff. Thanks alot!
Do you think you'd ever explain engineering a extended control arm? I really enjoyed seeing how you explained designing a factory dimension control arm.
Love your vids, love your work. Very informative, no blithering time wating drivel like other vids. I've picked up a lot of skills from watching you work. Keep it up Justin. Thanks!
The number of times you said jig: the right number to describe what you are doing. Plus abouty 3 at the end there that you didn't need to say. :-) The difference between a jig and a fixture is whether your instructor wore a suit or not.
With small tolerances, jumping between metric and imperial, you can get in a mess: Use only metric measurements if you're working on a metric car. My buddies who own vintage american cars have inch-tools for them and when working on the European or Japanese daily drivers they use the other set with metric tools. Be especially aware of the Whitworth threads on old British bikes and cars.
p.s. fuck the haters, jig is 100% acceptable. Fixture is technically a part OF the vehicle. In a machine shop a fixture is installed into a machine to hold semi complete pieces of work. The fixture is non-movable. fixed in place, i.e. so your datum(s) {work offsets} don't change. Jigs are moveable, you can flip them over etc, i.e. arent "fixed" 25+ years experience as a welder/fabricator ;)
It's funny that I just went through this this past week on my rear suspension LOL In the end I forgot the hiem joint seal washer (seal it) so I had to take an extra .100" from each side. My hiem joints are also in standard and all the bolts are metric but I have the same mentality as you when it comes to units. It's all the same haha
The easiest way to measure centres bro is to just measure from one side of a bolt hole to the same side of the other hole. I really wouldn't bother with the maths using the hole size. I'm a carpenter and this is how we measure the centres on rafters and things, a task which we can do hundreds of times a day
I would love a tfs goodie gift. However im not going to focus on how many times you say jig or fixture. Because as a young professional fabricator, (ss tig mainly for food plant) i learn alot from watching you. Especially when you demonstrate the details like this, and the fab end of things. Lots of people can learn to weld. Not as many can fabricate. So they bitch and moan about trivial things like jig or fixture. (Even modern welding literature state that the words are interchangeable.) Good on you brother for being able to brush off the whiners and create good content for those of us who appreciate it.
