Thank You very much. Good explanation. Can You tell me exactly what the delete of the second inner ring at the stator does? And what does the plug with the 3/8 screw? What is this hole exactly for?
That is done to dual feed the direct clutch to increase its holding force . Aftermarket shift kits do this with a plate on the case in front of the valve body, but it is prone to leakage . Removing the ring and blocking the return port is the best way to dual feed the direct clutch. The transmission in the video is still doing great behind my turbo 6.0 street car. I daily it all summer and it runs 6s in the 1/8 at 3500lbs with all stock internal parts.
Awesome tips Sam, i will be building 2 TH 350s this year.. the one in Candy Kane and the one thats going in Candy Kane with my 481 Nitrous engine.. Ill be watching this again.. Thanks Brother
My trans has stock type clutches and is still working after two years of abuse. It is my opinion that the sprag and center support will break before burning up a clutch. Also, don't remove the 1-2 accumulator spring. The shock of the shift will kill the case lugs at the center support . I have seen a lot of case failures where th350s break at the bell housing, and I wouldn't want to subject one to much more than 600 lb ft in a vehicle over 3,000 pounds.
I run a THM 350 in a 74 Monte Carlo at a local figure 8 track. It's a short 1/5 mile track. All I need is 1st gear. Do you have any tips on how to make my trans last longer?
I just tried to rebuild my first turbo 350 and have a problem, and hopefully, you can help. Here is my problem. The transmission's 1st gear is not working - meaning that when put into drive, the transmission starts in 2nd gear and then shifts to 3rd, when selecting 1st Gear - manual, the wheels do not move - the transmission acts as if it is put into park, but when taken out of 1st gear and put into 2nd wheels turn, and so on to 3rd. neutral and reverse works fine and so does park. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
The modifications outlined in the video, including dual feeding, the direct clutch will help the longevity of the transmission. I would need to know a lot more details like the vehicle's weight, the power your vehicle is making and how much weight you're towing, and how often. The weakest link and a turbo 350 is the case lugs holding the center support, in my opinion. It's also important with any automatic to control the temperature of the fluid.
Howdy from western Colorado! My pickup is a 1972, GMC 3/4 ton, 2wd with a stock 350 motor and a TH350 tranny. I mostly use it for hauling firewood, a large cab-over camper, and pulling a stock trailer. It has started to have a shifting problem lately so it may need to be rebuilt. Thanks again!
If it has been doing well, I would freshen it up dual feed the direct clutch firm up the shifts and install an auxiliary trans cooler, and it should be fine.
Hi Sir... Awesome Video and I subscribed and liked ! Quick Question? If i set it up for full manual shifting through the governor and VB, do i have to hook up the MODULATOR valve to a vacuum line for proper pressure?
No on a th350 it doesn't even need hooked up, most people just block off the cable hole. I will do a video about removing it tomorrow and how to plug the case. Also you can dual feed it without removing the center seal.
@@WhiteTrashMotorsports I bought a plug for it just wasn't sure I wanted to wire it down thinking I might do it wrong. Thanks for you awesome content. Hit me up by email for the ecu programming.. I need your address to send it to you!
All good my friend, if you lock it pulled out it won't shift out of second, there is a 2 stage valve first pulls easy and 2nd requires a harder pull. I leave mine unhooked and just manually pull it down to 2nd to pass.
