Replacing the bushing and seal on a th400 output shaft housing. Also, how to make a slip yoke work using a truck th400 with a center bolt bolt-on yoke. Yoke is a Sonnax T3-32431CBHP from Jegs.com
Hello lockedinmyownhead in your posted video about replacing the rear seal and bushing of a transmission why did you freeze the bushing and heat up the housing in order to put the bushing inside the housing properly? Also does it matter if that process isn’t done does it have any effect on the replacement of that bushing cause I’m trying to get my mother’s van rear transmission seal replaced with the bushings so she can drive her van again and we had someone else do the job but he never took that step to replacing it and even know it was replaced her van now is making a weird squeeling sound when it is driven now and we don’t know why cause it never made that sound before replacing that seal. So just wondering if the person that we had replace it for us did it properly or not. She has an 89’ gmc bivouac conversion van that she won’t ever part with so we need it running properly in order for us to move like we need to as well to get my mother around like needed cause she is disabled.
No it doesn't matter how you get the bushing in there as long as you don't damage anything. Some things are a press fit which most bushings should be. Heating one part up expands it and cooling the other part contracts it which is usually just enough to get one part to fit inside the other and when back to normal temp they will stay that way. If the bushing turns or is loose it will wear away at the housing and the bushing and usually cause a big leak. A squeel could be anything.
my mustang has lots of play in the tailshaft and leaks trans fluid. I think Im going to have to do this to fix it. How hard and how much time would this take. can I take the tailshaft housing off without pulling the trans?
I have done this, but not on a mustang so details might vary. I dropped the driveshaft, then [with the car on jacks] setup a bottle jack under transmission pan with a board to distribute weight. I then removed crossmember. Easing down jack about 1" allowed me to get at topmost housing bolts easy, and slide the housing clear of output shaft without the floorpan clearance stopping the show. Never touched motor mounts and tranny stayed bolted up to the motor. I used a screw type jack so that hydraulic problems couldn't sneak up and ruin my day - comes in handy sometimes trying to get things up to an exact height/work in tight corners too. I have to say I am VERY glad I did this maintenance. Not only was my seal weeping, but the bushing was looking to become a conical shape, and... the weep hole that lets transmission fluid drop in/vent out betweeen seal and bushing to feed lubrication was about 90% blocked. Dug that crud out [never did figure out what it was] with a screwdriver and some gasket picks, then cleaned housing completely before new bushing and seal went in. If you got anywhere near a wobble, you're gonna see clutch material in the pan most likely. Hope you caught it soon enough, and cheers!
