The $8 Tweeter! Best Budget DIY 2-Way Tweeter? | Dayton Audio TD20F Tweeter Review 

i dont understand, what is the difference between hard dome and soft dome tweeters?

Thanks so much! That means a lot. Thats exactly what I'm trying to do. Thanks for watching!

Dear Edward I am personally thankful to you for sharing such a valuable information. Love from India.

Thanks for watching!

I'm glad youre getting some value out of them! Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

I wil! Thank you for watching!

I study Electrical engineering and your videos have teached me things in would never learn at Uni

Thank you! Yeah, I learned a long time ago to ignore people. Also the "hide" button is my best friend. Thanks for watching!

@@KirbyMeetsAudio how does the hide button work? I once left a neg comment to record-o-logy about a toy Elvis record player being crap, from there on he hasn't replied or liked my comments since, he probably has put me on the hidden list or he ignores me. He once said we don't engage with the trolls

Thank you!

Agreed! The tests will get better with time. Thanks for watching!

Awesome! I'm looking forward to the build, your channel is great.

I was going to add a similar response , then I saw yours :-). Yes, the THD graph should give a pretty good idea of how low the tweeter can be taken. Off-center measurements of both the tweeter and the woofer will give a good idea of where the crossover point should be (the point being to find the frequency where the dispersion of the tweeter and the woofer are a decent match). For one meter measurements (used for x-over design), best approach I've found is to use a 1.25 meter rod and to use it to make sure there is NOTHING within 1.25 meters of the device being measured (it being mounted on a four foot stand), and another meter rod to make sure the distance between the device and the mic - easier to use rods for this rather than pulling out the measuring tape :-).

This is a great idea for a video! I'll do this for sure. Thanks for watching!

Same with Aus

@@enbee_ash6740 Fellow Aussie, I got the micca speakers on Amazon Prime for $88 with this type tweeter

Use soundimports they are pretty good

A more controlled environment is coming soon! I don't think thats the case. The hump is mostly coming from the baffle setup I was using. All the low frequencies you see are much lower than the amplitude of the high frequencies coming from the tweeter. Thanks for watching!

You totally can, but I didn't set up these tests with that intent. I would have done them differently if that was my goal. I'm going to redo these tests when the enclosures are finished and compare the difference in the crossover I came up with using the FRDs provided compared to me own. Thanks for watching!

That's kind of what I meant. I realize you're doing these tests for display purposes. I think it might be good to point out that you can use this data for something practical, other than just saying "hmm, that's nice. I like that driver."

Agreed! Building a better space right now. Thanks for watching!

I'll be doing a video on this soon, but I don't know of a way to design around salvaged drivers other than just guessing or using something like the DATS system. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! yes I've been just using aligator clips and testing how each driver sounds and "grouping" them. I made a 2.1 in a box a few years ago for my grandpa's pc, using 2 PC speaker drivers and adding a salvaged car 4" woofer below as a LFE. Sounded quite good for being basically made from scrap wood and salvaged components.

the micca 8 ohm tweeter uses 3.3uF

The micca tweeter is 8 ohm, Dayton is is 4, it can replace, add a 3 ohm resistor

Haha! Nice. The overall diameter difference? The main reason is the full-size tweeter uses a ferrite magnet to move the dome rather than neodymium. Ferrite speaker magnets are much larger than neodymium so they need the space. Thanks for watching!

Right gotcha dude. I was just wondering about the overall housing size difference.. FYI Thanx to you, i now have the courage to convert my vintage pair of Bang & Olufsen TV speakers to use them as front speakers for my 5.1 surround system. Meaning they need new cabinets instead of the plastic cabs they were made in :) Thx again mate :)

elCaxi1971 , it's not only the 1/4 inch difference but it's mostly the baffle mounting plate is why there is the difference you mentioned.

Sure! Designing a 3-way system is just more complicated than a 2-way. Thanks for watching!

Kirby Meets Audio I think the only thing that is more complicated to do would be the crossover for the midrange-driver.... But i think for that i could use a bandpass filter (i don‘t know the english word for bandpass)

No, thats not how 3-way systems are designed. Here's a good article to get you started: www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Tutorial/DesignBuildCrossover/

Kirby Meets Audio thank you very much for the fast response. I‘m going to read trough the text and looking at your „speakerbuild get started video“ a second time

You are actually correct, the term is bandpass in english as it denotes the use of a highpass and a low pass filter to create a band of frequencies. So in a 3 way, the Woofer is filtered using a Lowpass, the Mid range is filtered with a bandpass and the high/Tweeter is filtered with a Highpass filter.

Are you talking about a coaxial? Everything in speaker design is specific to the components used. So if you replace the woofer in a store bought speaker, the crossover is no longer designed for that driver. Maybe you'll get lucky and it'll sound great, but theres really no way of knowing unless you do the calculations first or someone has already made the swap in their system.

right basically using higher grade components of the same parameters or close but using higher quality parts. would i see a substantial increase in sound quality .im very green to all of this just trying to learn what would work and whats not worth trying i guess.

but on the concentric part of the post that would be completely seperate request.

If you're talking about crossover components on a store bought budget bookshelf speaker, yeah, you'll probably hear a difference since most of those systems use really crapy components on a PCB behind the terminal plate. If you're talking about the drivers themselves, reference back to my first comment, you probably wont find higher quality components with the same TS perimeters. And I don't know what you're talking about with concentric speakers. Most speakers are concentric. Do you mean coaxial?

ok i have a misunderstanding of concentric i basing my interpretation of concentric on the Tannoy style speakers how the tweeter is placed inside the mid driver or woofer pleases excuse my ignorance.

Misleading? When did I say the bump was from the tweeter alone? Of course the bump was caused by the baffle, any changes from just moving the mic back will be caused by outside influences.

Fully agree!

Thx for the reply man! :)

Today, all the DYI within audio is just an expensive hobby. You will never get cheaper than with used speakers/amp/whatever form well known brands/marks. Not even with less than 10$ per woofer/tweeter.

Sorry for the long post and the blablabla. No need to read it, just had some spare time and thought i'd give as much info as i could? hehehe My point is, i don't mind used things, but i'd rather have it all new. So if it doesn't work or has issues, it's my fault, not some other guy that "scammed" me by selling me some broken crap. And there comes the whole price thing. New speakers with brand name, 500$. New speakers without brand name and needs some diy, 250$. DIY (do it yourself, but i think it was just a typo, and no my writing isn't perfect, it's just that i made that same typo many times myself) :P But yeah it's not cheap, and it takes time, time is money, in theory... Used products are obviously "the way to go" if you find the right seller. After looking around the internet for a bit over 6 months now and finding some good sites with good products that aren't too expensive. I still feel like it will end up being cheaper, even with the time spent making them. But i'm no expert, neither in one thing or another :P I've just always seen really good products being... not just expensive, but really expensive. But since most of us just use a pc or a phone connected to an amp and then speakers, most of us won't hear the difference between a 2000$ setup and a 500$ one (other than the fact that the 2000$ one will most likely be able to play louder without distortion etc...). But building something that sounds like 2000$ seems to be possible with around 700$ and some "spare time". From what i can see and find. I make my own usb/hdmi cables, i make my own light systems in my house from parts that i buy myself, switches, "control panel" with light, fans, or whatever, and if i had to buy some "fancy" brand thing that can do the same, i'd usually end up paying at least twice as much and way more to get it installed. Obviously, i can't build a tv or an oven :P But you get the idea i think. Right now i have a pair of Cerwin Vega speakers (really like them) with a Sony receiver that i got for under half the price and it all looks, and sounds brand new (otherwise i wouldn't have bought it). It would have cost me over 1000$ for these things new. After looking online, i think i could build something with as good sound quality for around the same price i paid for these (around 400$). The thing is, the ones i bought, were used, the ones i would build, would be new... but for the same price. (And some spare time), and like i said, if they break (buying used ones) i will feel like i got scammed, if i break the ones i built myself with brand new parts, i'll just see myself as an idiot :P Once again, i'm no expert, but when i look at 2 things that seem to be pretty similar but one cost 3 times as much if not more, i just start asking questions. And big companies have machines to build their stuff and they have lower taxes if any taxes at all for that matter, so i just don't get why prices are so insanely high, 250$ of material assembled by a machine ends up at +1000$ retail... that just seems like an insanely high margin of profit to me, for... close to no work? Then again i live in a country with some of the highest taxes. And many things that i could buy in the US for 1000$ will be close to 2000$ where i live. A 80,000$ car in the US would cost close to 250,000 here... even if it was produced just 500 miles from where i live. So yeahhhh :P Maybe one day i'll come back here and post a video of my setup, the one i will build some day when i know enough about it, and have the time and money for it. I love these things, and if i can save some money while getting as good of a result, then it's even better. I guess taxes on finished products make things expensive here. I don't know, maybe i should go look into that so i can understand the, why when and how. Ps: when i say similar quality, i'm not going to go to "best buy" and buy a "2000watt" subwoofer for 80$ and then say "hey i also got 2000w but i only paid 80$ and 800$" Quality on such cheap things is just crap ;)

Oh...I mistyped DIY...sorry...it was early in the morning... Yes, you are right with your opinion. I was pointing out different aspect. We are all kind of freaks with twist to improve our technical stuff. I have personal experience of having difficulties to sell my own quite good DIY bookshelves. Being DIY, even providing lost of measurements/graphs was not enough to push price at least to sum price of components w/o box. And it did not happen once and as components I am now considering to use are not cheap at all, it is more profitable to buy something branded what will keep at least some price over the years Maybe the situation in your country is different, but where I live anything what is DIY is considered as crap no matter what.

Thats the name of the product. bit.ly/OmniMic

My bad, sorry