Great videos Boss. Recently came to this conclusion myself after working on getting 1-3-5. More efficient to work on finger strength separate from pulling strength. Easier to progressively overload pull-ups and hangboard sets and then combine the too every now and then on the campus board to check progress. Also W chainsaw man reference
Dude!!!! You're a legend! I've been applying your training principles (2x week moonboarding, 1x per week pullup training session) for the last few weeks and I sent my projects outdoors yesterday! Keep doing what you're doing!!! Love your content :D
I was considering to start a campus board routine - so this video just came in the right moment, i'll stick to hangboarding :) thanks for the detailed information and get well soon!
For the OAH / pully... Your shoulder is maybe more taxed for stability therefor lacking ability for max strength. Good video on the 147. Would be interesting to follow up on that later in terms of your moonboard goals. I am able to do 158 and mostly don't see the takeover to these weird moonboard sidejumps and crossovers.
I think I just got accidentally lucky with my training with regards to campusing. I first saw Magnus years ago doing 1 finger front levers and one-arm pullups so when I got into climbing I spent all my 'extra' training on weighted pullups, front levers and one-arm pullup training. I could already do muscle ups so my power was pretty good. By the time I started doing some campus training I could already basically do like 1-4-5 for free. I don't really train on it too much, but I did 1-4-6 easily a while back. I think I could probably get 1-4-7 simply because now I can do like almost 100% BW with a weighted pullup, one-arm pullup and 10 second front lever hold, so you are absolutely right those things should be the focus. I also really want to stress what you said about body tension. I am currently like a V7-V8 climber and the biggest improvements I have made is when I started doing moon boarding training regularly.
After experimenting with training the last couple of years, I’ve come to similar conclusions. Personally, I believe my finger strength lags well behind my pulling strength (especially when you consider how quickly one could improve pulling strength using weighted pull-ups, etc.) and therefore my time is best spent currently on training methods that focus more on finger strength and technique - board training and OUTDOOR BOULDERING! Thanks for the great content boss ❤
Hey Boss, was rewatching this video and had a question: you were able to 1-4-7 on the “fat jug” campus rungs, but could not on the smaller ones. Your conclusion was that your fingers were lagging behind, but the rest of the video talks about how you really just needed the OAP and once you had that you unlocked it for free. But this doesn’t make much sense to me: say you unlocked the OAP but your fingers didn’t get stronger. Wouldn’t your pulling force still be limited by your fingers? So wouldn’t it be more accurate to say the thing that unlocked it was just getting stronger fingers? Or do you think that even with fingers as the limiting factor, higher pulling power will still somehow translate to more force on the wall? Curious to hear your thoughts!
For your max hang routine at 11:44, you say 3 sets holding for 7-10 seconds. Are there multiple reps, or are you doing 1 rep per set then waiting 5 min? Thanks for the video btw - I've been climbing for about half a year so it's really helpful to hear what you wished you'd done in hindsight. Hope you're feeling better by now!
Sorry another comment lol your approach of building strength first (weighted pull-ups, max hangs) and then applying that strength to power training (campus board) is consistent with the training science employed for many other sports
honestly I agree with you, I had similar progression on the campus board, and once I hit my hand so hard on it, so i just stopped using it, and then 9 months later ( 1 year of climbing) we were messing around, and I did 1-4-6, and I was mindblown, 1 week later, i did 1-5-7.5, and it wasn't even a big deal since it didn't change anything about my climbing other then knowing that I can campus stuff if I have to.
@@bobbob22146 idk, i just climbed a lot, I will notably say that it is not just about the hands, there is quite a lot to do with core strength and springyness of the body like when you do à muscle up.
Thanks for the video! I'm on my way to campusing and i find this very useful. I think one of the biggest benefit from campusing is the contact strength training. And you cannot get it so well from hangboarding or moonboarding.
I'd argue you can get campus strength and power more efficiently by campusing on a spray wall and using different types of holds. Also I think that moon board will help a lot haha. cheers
Nice video man! I also see most progress in my climbing when Im doing max hangs/ weighted pull-ups, interestingly i mostly hang on 20mm edge, do you think there's a difference hanging 15mm to 20mm?
so i fundamentally disagree with OAP for 1-4-7. i can do 1-5-8 on 20mm rungs, cant do a 1 arm, not even remotely close. this being said, i can 1 arm hang 20mm with 5kg added most days. so im probably making up for total lack of pull strength with good fingers.
We are all made different. Personally I get stronger fingers by campusing, not deadhangs. Anyway, I find your point of view very sad: you are filled with regret and "wasted time" I hope you will learn to be proud of your achievements, and enjoy the road to reach those goals.
Hey Boss, love your videos! I’ve just started climbing 6 months ago and I’m really enjoying it: I had a background of calisthenics training before I started (could already do one arm pull-up, front lever) so I’ve been able to progress to v4/soft v5 pretty quickly. However my finger strength is nowhere near that level yet (cannot really even hang on a 20 mm edge yet). How would you recommend training my finger strength to catch up? I’m wary of using a hangboard at this early stage, but I’m also not sure if climbing v3/v4 will translate to the much smaller holds of v5+, where I’m just getting completely shut down at the moment.
There's a lot of mixed opinions online of when to start hangboarding. I started climbing in February 2020, which was when the pandemic hit and I did not have access to gyms. So I started hangboarding around March 2020. I think it honestly doesn't hurt to start early (unless you are still youth), which Lattice Training seems to agree with as well. Make sure to be adequately warm up before hangboarding (climb probably for 30 min-1hr before), and when you first start, start very slow! I would recommend training the half crimp because it is so versatile ("Half crimp is king"). Back in March 2020, I would train with an open hand grip and I didn't see a big progression in my climbing until my friend suggested the half crimp. At first, you don't even need to hang with feet off the floor, just as much as you can comfortably handle while standing. It will be pretty difficult to get used to and you will feel very weak. But after a couple weeks, you'll see a big difference in your half crimp and will be able to hang off of it, and it's gradual progression from there. Hope this helps.
I notice you have different shoes (Tenaya Iati, MR Drone HV and at least another one). Can you make a video about your search for the perfect climbing shoe? I had an extensive journey, and am curious about your thoughts on this. Thanks for the video btw!
Maybe I have an idea why you lost finger strength ass you switch to one arm hangs. You could look up the term bilateral defecit and than change the weight.
Amazing video. I just wanted to point out one thing. To me it looks like you are hardly generating any momentum for both pulls on the 1-4-7, even when you finally got it. I know people much weaker at pulling than you that can do 1-4-7, because of momentum generation and explosivity. A great example is Kyra Condie, she has lots of campus board videos on her IG.
Hey man. Love your videos. Honestly some of the best climbing training content on RU-vid. You are thorough and direct. Most importantly, you empathize deeply with other intermediate climbers going through the struggle it takes to improve. This is why I was so disappointed to see that anime clip in the video. It is flatly sexist. It both objectifies and others women’s bodies. Objectifies: it suggests women’s breasts are an achievement to be reached. Others: it suggests that breasts are worth nothing after the achievement. How do you think a lover would feel about this? This kind of rhetoric about women is everywhere. It doesn’t happen to men as much. How would you feel if you and your penis was talked about like that all the time? Seriously. Think about it. Sex is more than an expression of achievement. Sex is part of deeply experiencing another person. This video makes that part of women, which makes available that experience, an abject object. The video isn’t good for men watching either. Sex is also about experiencing yourself. In suggesting the lack of deep affecting in sex is “wise,” it bars men from experiencing this affection. But, again, much worse, it bars women from the conversation entirely. I would say be careful with anime. It’s rife with these conservative “truths” wrapped in “edgy” content (their teeth, etc.). But really, just a simple request from someone otherwise benefiting from your videos: keep that stuff out. I realize it was supposed to be a joke. It’s not funny. It doesn’t help climbing. It doesn’t help the world.
