love it, that was awesome, I run a cnc lathe at work, never even thought about knurling on it, we use the manual lathes for that. I can totally see how a higher production job would make use of cnc knurling, and I honestly didn't even know that was possible!
Great video guys! When I did knurling on parts at my old job (which was a lot Haha!!) during setup, I did a skim pass on the material such as you did, and for example a 1" diameter turned down to .985---after that I took our knurling tool (which had the same knurling wheels as what you have) and lightly touched off on the O.D. of the part (.985) and hit X diameter measure button and entered the .985 and then hit enter. From there in my program I would write for my knurling tool to enter rapid in Z-.100 to get started and feed down to X.965'ish , depending on material your knurling and visually check the knurl finish. One trick I learned was to watch the amount of pressure on the X axis as it was knurling and put that note in the program for future runs. Usually for stainless my X axis pressure was around 25-35%. For aluminum it was much less, usually around 10%. I forgot to mention, that I ran a HAAS SL20 and SL30....not sure if other CNC lathes have that feature of X load pressure.
Right on time. Just knurled my first part last week. I was apprehensive at first but after all the fussing and worry , it wasn't so bad. Your way of setting the offset is much simpler than what I went through. Thanks for the tips and great video!
Subscribed because of how clear, and informative this video was. I have no CNC machine, but I thoroughly enjoy learning new things. Keep up the great work.
Hi Tyson, Many thanks for sharing. A very detailed explanation of knurling on the HAAS Lathe. Showing us the setup hows, and whys was very helpful. John
Nice! . A different way of touching off. Still got the same results. I generally run the spindle slow and move the knurl tool down till it starts spinning on a known diameter and call it that diameter. Also I run the neural off the edge and the z until it stops spinning and I call that z0. Let It go from the door today I guess that's from me running manual for years. All depends on how you program it but that was a great tutorial thanks for showing everybody. you, your dad, and the whole company are doing a great job for the industry. And there's always more than one way to do it! keep thinking outside the box it's what our industry needs to succeed.
Woah! One of the beautiful Knurl I've seen. Definitely a class tutorial this was.. And the Boom was Broken already! Nobody could say Bhoom like Titan, have a nice day to you too Tyson of CNC....
Excellent video! It's clear and concise and all around very well presented. I really appreciate what you guys are doing, it's a huge help to people who lack proper job shop training.
Chamfers front and back will make the part look a lot better. You should also emphasise the feedrate used as this is important to the quality of the knurl based on the type of knurling tool.
I had two main questions and that one one: 1. Isn't feed rate important - and doesn't it need to be a factor of something - i.e. like the dimensions of the knurling tool ?? Does it need to by in-sync with the rotation, like when threading? 2. Does it need to be synchronized - if you're doing multiple knurling passes - like with threading?
@@Bkgoodman11 Hi Brad,1. As a rule of thumb a feedrate on softer materials can be as much as 0.020" , less on tougher materials. It therefor does not need to be in sync. The depth of cut can be up to 1/2 the depth of the serration in the knurling wheel. 2. I always try to get to depth in one pass ( on finer knurls), but if you need to take multiple passes, leave the feed engaged and reverse the feed direction.
I have been taking the academy classes for over a month now. With the Fusion software, I figured out how to make convex and concave surfaces. Titans program is so addictive.
Great video Tyson. I have a question. I am an old school machinist. I was trained in trade school in the early 80s on manual lathes. Knurling was one of those things that sometimes didn't form the beautiful diamond your part did since the knurl rollers aren't synchronized. Sometimes we would get a cross knurl or double knurl, where one roller would make the correct pattern, but the other roller would roll in a double pattern where it basically cut the other half of the diamond in half. Make sense? How do you consistently get that perfect pattern?
Nice video! Thank you for posting it! 2 quick questions: 1. What is the hand of that tool? Left or right? I’ve been shopping for one and it seems like it would be a left hand tool you want....or an upside down right hand tool...... 2. Are you using beveled wheels or straight edge wheels? Thanks again for the the great video!!
This is so cool. Thanks so much for showing that on a cnc ! I’ve only ever done it on a manual machine! Looking forward to trying it on our st-30!!!! Great job man! Keep the lathe vids coming ! That’s my machine of choice to !
Awesome. Should have also showed the live tooling milling the flat that was on the part. I've only used a knurling tool once and had to wing it but make due, this video is helpful.
Loved the process, but you should learn how to use an adjustable spanner/wrench. You should always tighten towards the floating jaw to avoid straining the tool.
It’s funny when I was first taught knurling by and old timer who only programs longhand and is way out of the current time he made it sound like it was way more difficult then it was. I mean he got into the pitch of the knurl, found out how many perfect pitch lengths would fit into a circumference to determine how deep to make the knurl, it was like and hour explanation of unnecessary math just to make a handle lol
You got an ST30 Y, would be way easier to use the Y travel for the tool measurement...and it´s more accurate to touch off one of the knurl wheels one the part or your probe arm
Cool video. But I am accustom to gears. If gear spacing between teeth is not careful matched they will clash. How does the tool maintain the correct distance between knurled lines?
Great video, i just finished a run of 9000 knerled pins today great timing on the vid. was currious how well that tool you used in your video might compare to the style ive been using. My tool is not adjustable and i have to use a live center because of the amount of pressure in x i neen to get a knerl. What id like to know is by using the tool over center line of the part what kind of loads are you looking at. Would be nice if i could get rid of having to center drill and use the tailstock.
Hey, Thanks for making it look like flawless. How can we cross knurled perfectly on tapper parts, I mean those parts which are in conical Shape ? Thanks.
Where do you get the precision .250" shims? I've seen you guys use them multiple time before and I can not find them. I tend to use a 1-2-3 block, but a .250" shim would have some value in some situations.
Your really taking to this video production game and improving with each! Your going to give your old man a run for his money someday but need to work on the BOOM a bit :-)
wow, great video. so I just ran 280 stainless parts with similar feature sizes and it took 4 minutes for just the knurl tool path. are the wheels HSS? Cobalt? What brand knurler? What SFM and IPR? Our knurler was not straddle type like yours and the wheel weren't concave either (our were beveled).
Hello! tks for the content! Do you have especific parameters of rotation and pitch for knurling on CNC machine? I need to knurling Diameter 25mm and 28mm. Are weitgh lifitng bars with 420mm knurl. Do you have tips to me?
Where are all those Z offsets taken from is there an absolute zero taken from somewhere on the machine, the minus number seems to increase the nearer you move the tool to the chuck? Interesting video thank you
I was never good at math, but 0.985 - 0.030" diameter digs into the material .015", not 0.030. I still don't understand how the two cutters line up. Is the z feed speed critical? In my head if the diameter of the cutter divided by the number of ridges on the cutter isn't some multiple of the diameter of the part then your cuts won't line up after you make a few rotations. Is this true?
Ok, Is it possible to knurl an piece that is not perfectly round for instance how do they accomplish knurling the front and back straps of pistol grips?
i like it sharp for better grip. these knurling should be on all knobs for car radio ....it will look solid and for car break pad and accelarato pad..it will sell...
I was wondering if that program would be saved for further use and also just like in object oriented programming can one program inherit from another program? for example if I have one part with 1 or 2 variations can I make a "parent" part file and 2 "child" part files which inherit most of their instructions from the parent file?
We have a 3/8 dia stock, we are trying to do a straight knurl with a double knurling tool like yours using the same SFM and feed but the splines look pretty bad
