The Artillery Sidewinder X2 is not a Magic Missile (but it's pretty FAST). 

My X1 is still going strong.. I did manage to snap the lever, and had a ribbon cable frizzle. So yeah those spares the machine came with were put to good use.

The unused plug is probably for the Z stop sensor. I upgraded my X1 for auto bed leveling by attaching the stock sensor that used to sit right there to the print head, and now the cable sits at the same location, unused. It's likely that they used the same motherboard or other components from the X1 and just left the cable in place if somebody wanted to mount the sensor there.

When I bought my X2 there were maybe three reviews on RU-vid (because the printer had only been out a couple months), this was perhaps the first in-depth one and it cemented my decision to buy a X2. Now there are quite a few, I've been using mine quite a bit, and I've been helping a lot of newbies on the Artillery3D subreddit. I have uncovered several issues involving the X2, especially some involving newbies. I posted this screed on another RU-vid video last night, I figure I might as well post it here too.. 😁 Maybe it'll help someone. --- I've had one of these since 11-11 (yeah, the sale) last year, and it's been great. Yes, it does have problems - I'll address the few you've mentioned. Lack of Preheat - actually it DOES have Preheat, just not one with pre-sets. It's under Tools -> Heat, then you press the "+" button a bunch of times to get the nozzle or the bed to whatever temperature you want. Lack of removable bed - a removeable bed is something I decided I could not live without. Fortunately easily fixed. Spring steel? Why? Get some IKEA 300x300 mirror tiles (a box of four for USD6) and use small binder clips to clip them to the bed. Yes, you either have to keep them absolutely fingerprint-free or use glue stick (I use glue stick, having been doing this with my old printer). Don't like bare glass? Get a A3 sized polycarbonate, you can get a 310x297mm sheet from it. 2mm or 3mm should work. You need to thoroughly scuff the surface with 200 grit sandpaper. (Just got one today, I'll be testing it out soon). Actually, acrylic/perspex/plexiglass seems to work as well, and it might even be possible to get this to work without heating the bed. Again, experiments on the way. OR you could do what Angus suggests and get a sheet of G10/Garolite. Spring steel? Costs too much money, I think.. OK, on to a problem you haven't discovered yet, but has been carried over from the X1. The firmware doesn't work with M0 and M25 (the "pause" commands), so the "Pause at Height" feature in Cura doesn't work. You can still pause the printer manually using the touch screen, but it IS a pain and I'm looking forward to someone coming up with a fix for this. There are workarounds, but so far they only work if you're running Octoprint. By the way, I don't use the filament runout sensor - it's a major pain in the neck to use, especially if you're swapping filaments. I just stuck a 2 inch piece of filament in it. If I need it I'll use it, otherwise it's not needed. Is this a good printer for newbies? I think it is. I've been hanging out on the Artillery3D Subreddit, so I've been observing problems that have been cropping up again and again for newbies. None of these is particular to the X2 (and also the Genius Pro), they're germane to all 3D printers. Or, in the case of one of the problems with 3D printers equipped with a ABL sensor. The first problem is.. newbies often have trouble getting the filament to stick. Most of the time it's simply that they've set the nozzle too high. In the case of the X2 (and other ABL-equipped printers) this leads to another issue. How do you adjust nozzle height??? I've been 3D printing since 2017, I'm used to adjusting the bed using the little bed wheels (not so little in this case..). Nozzle too high? Loosen the wheels a tad, this raises the bed. THIS DOES NOT WORK WITH THE X2!!!! It took me a while to figure this out.. With the X2 if the nozzle is too high, you have to use the "Z Offset -" button (under Tools -> More) to lower the nozzle. Once you have it to where you want it (I'd suggest setting the nozzle to printing height using the Manual Leveling menu - use Position 5 before setting the height with a piece of paper as a gauge) make sure you save to EEPROM. Why is this the case? Older printers had a Z axis stop switch mounted somewhere on the frame. This was fixed. Move the bed, this changes the nozzle height. The X2 uses the ABL probe as the Z stop reference. Once it senses the bed, it then sets the nozzle height RELATIVE TO THE BED using the stored Z Offset value. Adjust the bed up? The printer STILL sets the nozzle the same height from the bed. This confuses people - not just newbies, but experienced printers like myself who've never used ABL. You use the manual bed leveling to set the nozzle just right, and after you start the print, the nozzle is STILL too high. This leads to another problem at least 4-5 people have had on the Subreddit - the nozzle jamming into the bed when you home Z. This is one of two things. If the Z Offset is too low, the printer will try to lower the nozzle lower than the bed. How does this happen? In most cases it's a matter of someone tinkering too much - they disassembled the hot end, either because they wanted to see what was inside, or they got this idea that you had to do so to change the nozzle, or they believed someone who told them they absolutely HAD TO HAVE an all-metal heat break, or their printer wouldn't be cool. And when they reassembled it, they assembled it with the nozzle sticking down too far. What's the fix? Probably use the "Z Offset +" button - hit it 20-30 times. Then home Z again, see if it hits the bed again. If it does, repeat. If it doesn't, then set the nozzle height so that it's correct, using the paper. And then, save to EEPROM, of course. Oh yeah.. this leads to another problem (which IS particular to the X2 and the Genius Pro) - the ABL sensor probe can fall out. It's happened to me, and to a couple of others. If it does, the next time you home Z the printer will try to drive the nozzle through the bed. The fix? Stuff it back in there. Use some force, make sure it's in all the way, or you might find yourself with a HUGE Z Offset. What if you've lost it? You can print one. Believe it or not, there's a couple of them on Thingiverse. It doesn't really matter if they're not round, they do work. It's just a plastic rod - I measured mine. 1.8mm diameter, 15.4mm length. You could also go to a model railroad supply store and buy 2mm diameter styrene and cut it to length (I mean, if your printer isn't printing because you're missing the rod, you can't print one either, no?). Artillery should throw a half dozen of these things in the parts bag - it's only a few cents worth after all.

On my X1 the striations were almost completely solved by tuning the extruder steps and flow. Another important part is to make sure the bed v rollers are tension properly so the bed does not fluctuate while moving.

I love to see that they've added a leveling sensor. The bed on my X1 is just ever so slightly cupped. It took me forever to figure out why I wasn't getting good bed adhesion. I ended up adding a flexible build plate where I shim the center up with 6 strips of aluminum foil.

Wait - am I to understand you printed a 300mm tall model at 0.15mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle and it still only took about 40h? I'd consider that a win. Impressive!

I have an X1 that I absolutely love. I bought it largely based on your reviews. I was looking forward to this review ever since they announced the X2. I'm really happy with what they've done with it, and also pretty amused that after all of the work I put in to get mine upgraded, it now just comes like that out of the box lol

Could this be a positive pattern with Chinese printers actually listening to reason going forward? I sure hope so. But i agree that there is always a limit to a design and the Volcano style hotends are meant to push a lot of plastic. Because of that they are best suited for big nozzles or fast printers like a CoreXY or a Delta. Hats off to Artilary for having the guts to not only improve but to trust an honest reviewer to give an unbiased opinion. Thanks again Angus for all you do for the community of people who depend on you.

I've got an X1 and it's been great as has my experience with Artillery customer support, even during COVID. I did a few mostly cosmetic upgrades but by far the best one was to fit a Wham Bam flex plate. Adhesion is fantastic and if in a hurry there's no need to wait for the bed to cool down. I have seen many instances of chunks coming away from the bed and although I never had that problem the Wham Bam is far superior in my opinion. I'd buy an X2 without hesitation but I really don't need to as my X1 still does everything I need an FDM printer for.

Would love to see you take it apart and tweak it, Angus!

Hi Angus, I wanted to say thank you. because of your channel I finally decided to get my own 3D printer. Funny enough it’s the first artillery sidewinder printer. I’m currently using it to design my first battle bot

Hi Angus 👋🏻 Great review as always. Be keen to see those Z screw brackets removed and the benefits of them. I do like the metal brackets ‘round back for the stronger stability considering there’s a kilo or 3 of pla wobbling around on the top like a marionette 🎭

I've literally spent months trying to get rid of those striations on my X1, and came to the same conclusion: lighting and material are crucial to how the model looks. So I decided it wasn't really worth pursuing it further. One interesting thing I noticed: I started getting horrible z-banding when I replaced floating mounts with normal anti-backlash nuts. So I went back to the original mounts. Rigid mounts work well only if everything is true and straight. My z-rods are fairly straight, but the machine does not really allow adjustment of motor mounts and top bearings, and they are far from being perfectly aligned with each other.

I found the following settings best: 220 degrees extruder 65 degrees bed a light coat of hairspray. And DONT FORGET .To enable compensation for auto-leveling, add M420 S1 Z10 after G28 in starting Gcode

The unused plug is for the Z axis end stop but it's not needed because of the ABL. My Ender 3 V2 looks similar because there's plugs on both ends of the wire and didn't want to cut it :)

In my farm I have four X1's that have thousands of hours on each printer. I only print with PLA and PETG so your experience my differ. I did buy one aluminum tension lever and it is still in my spare parts box unused. I have never cracked or broken a tension lever so I must be doing something that others are not. As far as ribbon cables I have had only one failure of a print head cable at the print head end, I do not use any form of support or clamp on the cables. However, I believe the failure was operator error more than a poor design on the makers part. I have a tendency to place the bottom of the cable in the slot then rotate it into position and I believe that caused the failure. I really like your reviews Angus they are on point and seem not to be influenced by whoever sent their product in for review. Thank you for all you do for the Makers of the world, good on you.

I was a bit disappointed to see that sidewinder have removed a Z stepper driver. They've still got dual Z motors, but they're run off the same single driver, as opposed to two drivers on the X1. Which means no more z-axis auto align, which is a shame especially now they ship the printer with a bed probe.

It's referenced in the manual It's a stop switch that can be installed on the vertical support next to the plug It can also be used as a replacement stopper button on the horizontal support

I've had the v1 for 3 years now with ZERO ribbon cable issues. The only thing that broke was the plastic lever on the extruder, which I easily replaced by an aluminum one for $5. Don't be lazy, use glue on the bed for best results.

My Prusa i3 Mk3 has been serving me well for 3+ years now and I expect it to continue for years more, but I'm still fascinated to see the 3D printing solutions from other manufacturers/designers. The Voron 2.4 that Thomas Sanladerer built was quite something, especially its print speed. Looking forward to the release of the Clearance Castle STL, what a novel method of testing printer accuracy.

Been keeping my eye on the sidewinder for a while, thinking of picking one up as my second printer and upgrade from my ender 3 pro, especially since I print a lot of tpu.

To another channel they said the plastic vertical frame is because it's because the plastic is flexible. And that makes some sense: You don't really want a rigid structure there that you need to adjust with screws or whatever, when the "rectangle" is already defined by the two right angles on the base mount. You already have to adjust the X rail to slide smoothly up and down...

Angus: This video has nothing to do with any kind of weaponry Also Angus: *Attacks camera with demonetization hammer*

I will say I got the sidewinder X1 and it was the most reliable printer I've ever used

My first 3D printer was the X1. One of the many things I learned from it is that the weight of the filament spool helps to cause and magnify Z wobble . The first thing I did was to move the spool off the top support and on to the desk surface. I also slowed down the print speed (when printing taller prints over 30-40+mm tall) which seemed to help. I haven't tried any of the Z angle brace solutions as of yet, but that's probably something that next on my "To Do List". Thank You for the review!

Love the channel, reviews and information. Always learn something, thank you from a long time subscriber.

I have an X1 and is my go-to printer. I have upgraded it to a Hemera extruder and added stabilizing rods for the Z height but other than that I love the printer. I'm glad, and a little envious, about the enhancements that they have made with the X2. I have thought about adding a bed levelling sensor but with the glass bed it is almost unnecessary. Loved the review Angus and keep the videos coming.

Yes, please test the removal of the Z couplers! Thank you!

X1 review after 9 months: My x1 still goes strong after 9 months of use, i didn't break the lever yet but i did bought a metal replacement just in case. One thing i did that i will advise against is to remove the hot glue from the board connectors. I did it and with the vibration the fan of the motherboard unplugged and almost burn the stepper drivers. The glass in the center after a lot of print did slightly where out so this is one thing you must be aware but it's still works. I did bought some extra rollers when the factories ones will wear but still didn't change them. I did fit a bl touch clone and works great. I used the led wires from the head so it was like it was intended to be installed The flex cables didn't show any problems, but i did print a support part in the head just in case. The same with the heater, the first print of the printer was a cable strain relief for the main voltage cable. I could make a video if many people are interested.

Hi Angus , I have an X1 and agree that the top rail should have remained , however I did modify the spool rollers to accommodate two rolls side by side which enables a easy change. I drew it up in fusion 360 and I am old. It also creates more room to put the filament through that pesky sensor , which has saved me a couple of times now. Cheers from Perth

Angus I just purchased the X2 and I'm sorry to say, I've had nothing but trouble, the bltouch clone broke, so I fixed it with a toothpic. But artillery was kind enough send another, It also stops mid print with no error code, it makes a horrible ca-chunk noise when z hopping, I've ordered some anti-backlash nuts, I love my x1 and have printed some beautiful things with it, but the X2 is leaving me discouraged. I love 3d printing and I'm a loyal fan of this channel, but please go back and take another look at this machine, maybe please consider doing a follow up video on it. Thank you my friend for all the wonderful knowledge you shared. : )

I make big prints and eventually all my X1s have had the beds die on them after months of constant use. This X2 is really interesting by taking on the bed cable issue.

My X2 is ordered and on its way looking forward to the PS profile.

Cant wait for the X2 profile! I love my X2 so far the one issue I need to fix is dimensional accuracy and warping. The warping may just be a problem with proto pasta htpla

I'd love to see some more of the calibration castle! Seems so cool!

After having my cr-10s for a while before the X1 came out, I was admittedly a little jealous. Lol. Even with a bunch of mods on my cr10s, I admired how quiet and well built (for the most part), the X1 was for the price. Happy to see they’ve done some really great work for the x2. Only thing that kinda bugs me is the glued down build plate. If I ever need an extra printer, I’d likely get this. 🙂

Wow, that bed heating 👍🏻👏🏻

Im printing some large xy parts but not high. If you need a good build volume printer without printings ABS or any little bit more techy filament, then this printer is glorious. Be aware, if you are reading this, check your cables, since mine burned emediatly when i printed 1st part, cables for one of the ventilators. Otherwise very good printer.

Angus had lots of fun making the demonetisation robot bit

Both my x1s have had no problems mechanically other than I didn't clean the bed one time and it blobbed up real bad on the nozzle and u use both quite regularly no ribbon cable or lever problems.

are we going to ignore angues the sick trousers that hes got on. and z banding test yes

Sidewinder also happens to be the name of a type of buggy.

Just bought this machine after a struggle with the cr10v3. Enjoying it so far.

Hey, Angus, how about a tour of your JP-8080 and rack-mounted friends? :)

With regards to surface finish: have you run multiple prints of the same test part to check if it's the hotend or the z assembly? It's worth checking out before doing all the work to swap out their fancypants custom z axis bits. But then swap them out, because it would be unfortunate if the machine's junk without their proprietary, possibly-unobtainable parts in the future. (For anyone who doesn't immediately see what this test does: If it's the hotend, the banding should be inconsistent between prints, but if it's the lead screws, it should be repeatable. Changing materials or print temperatures should also affect the hot end more than the mechanicals, which may be helpful to suss out which it is, without needing to disassemble and reassemble the machine. This is not only faster and easier, but also lower risk of screwing up during reassembly. Stuff like this often isn't designed for maintenance, needing little tricks to get everything to line up when you put it back together. And often, the people who designed it don't even know this: the assembly line crews have to figure them out, and share them with new people during training via a whole "oral tradition." Humans are gonna human.)

I really hope they offer a upgrade kit for the X1. Like the new Z screw guides and the 32bit board. I picked up a Genius Pro and yes the upgraded part are very much worth it.

Thanks for the update Angus. Great review. I love my x1. A lot of my friends who have other printers seem to have issues with their printers.

@3:37 Back in the day, "Creepy Crawlers" were popular for a short while. You had a liquid that you put in molds, then baked in the oven...yum! It was actually not meant to be eaten but I'd be willing to bet one of the contributing factors to their demise was that some kids did.

I like the human fur on Angus' head 🥰🥰🥰

Firearms RU-vid here. Don't demonitize my boi here, he isn't one of us, SPARE HIM!

Watched this video again and I’m still enjoying that X1 from the Tippi tree giveaway! I bought a new extruder for it, only $50 after I messed up a repair.. killed the extruder trying to replace a filament gear.

looking forward to the new clearance tests. Looks like a pretty nice out of the box printer.

Angus, I really love your content! Great review. I have bought a X2 a few days ago and cannot wait to get it. I think it is a little bit sad, that they did not go for a aluminium heatbed this time. So this is something I will change for certain.

Yes, solve the uneven extrusion problem Makermuse! All SWX1 users suffer from it... Try with a regular heat block to see what happens

With the lines in the print there are ways to buff that out by adding something I forget what on top then sand away thus making it smooth and flat

Have an X1, have had it for years, still have that original tension arm. I'm of the opinion that its snapping is user error. Just use the change filament function in the menu and it won't be an issue.

Great video as always :-) Im quite shure that the design @16:00 is a design I have seen from Alex Kenis some years ago Thanks for sharing your expirences with all of us :-)

Yes it is the z stop sensor but due to having the auto bed leveling they remove it. So its the same wiring harness as the X1. Thanks for sharing Angus.

That's a pretty attractive price for such a large printer.

1:50 MM: Shielded plugs are nice the USA: *Audible confusion*

Stock artillery nozzles are, not great. Good volcano nozzle and a titanium heatbreak is a must on these. That improves things quite a bit.

The couplers definitely cause banding, because they allow the x-bar to move slightly up/down. Or at least on my Genius. You can bolt the lead screw nuts directly to the x-bar, but first make sure they're not moving (i.e., that the lead screws are straight).

The bed does not heat up quickly, as glas is not very heat conductive. The temperature sensor is in the silicone heater, so the temperature you see in the display has nothing to do with the temperature of the beds surface. Same as with the X1. With Flir pictures of the surface you would see here also a very uneven heat distribution. So do not start the print on the original bed as soon the printer measures the desired temperature reached, but wait some extra minutes. Definitly the bed should be changed to a fine milled casted aluminium one (as many did on the X1)

I am actually getting similar "good print in one light, bad print in another angle" on my nearly stock Ender 3 - and I don't recall it doing this before, so I am trying to figure out what might be causing it - so I would definitely like to see if swapping the couplers out does anything on this printer, if you can solve it - then maybe we can translate that fix to other machines too - and it makes the X2 quite a bit more desirable once that is solved. All in all it looks like an amazing evolution of the original X1 though - and quite well made. Hope it can live up to the expectations though.

I love my X1 but I do wish it had ABL. This is tempting. Yes I know I could add ABL but last time I did that on my cr-10 it was a total pain and I dont wanna mess with it. But the biggest thing for me on going with the X1 originally was the AC heated bed and how quiet it is. Seriously I love this machine. I gave away my CR-10 and i3 mega once I got the x1. Every now and then I still wish I had my i3 mega as it was really nice for when I had lots of stuff to print or ABS prints (being smaller it was easier to enclose) but the sidewinder handles them well even without an enclosure.

I've got my sights on this as my second printer. The other contenders were the Sapphire Plus and the Bluer Plus, but I think this has the best mix of features, plus it's got a long track record from the large number of X1s that have been in long term use. Strange, the heat-seeking missile NEVER came to mind when I heard "Sidewinder", it's always been the snake (after which the missile was named). I wonder how Australia ended up with that design of wall plug - the rest of the Commonwealth uses the British style plug. As far as alternate print surfaces go - a lot of people have added magnetic beds and/or sticker sheets to their X1s. With the X2 it should be VERY easy to just clip on 300x300mm sheets of your new favorite G10/Garolite sheets to the existing bed - no need to move the Z end-stop even, since there's auto bed levelling. For me, a local 3D printing supplier sells 300x300mm Garolite sheets, or I can get 300x300mm polycarbonate, or if I wanted to go back to plain glass with/without glue stick IKEA sells 300x300x2mm mirror panels, four in a pack for USD6. Just use binder clips - just get some MUCH SMALLER ones than the ones you used in the G10 video. (I'm just hoping the bed really is 300x300mm and not oversized..) There's a guy who uploaded a video about the mirror panels - he says as long as you never, never, never, never, NEVER, NEVER touch the surface PLA will stick to it - he likes to print very large, flat models (I think for D&D rooms) and they come out with a perfect, mirror-smooth underside.

While generally favorable, I think you were a little harsh on the X1. Apparently Artillery improved the tension arm at some point - I have three X1 machines running quite a lot and have never had issues with the stock tension arm. Regardless, the X1 is a terrific base printer and an awesome printer after a few minor upgrades. A better heat break and nozzle that reduces the melt pool, replacing the set screw set heat break holding system in the main plate with a 17mm helicoil and a threaded heat break increases thermal contact to the cooling fan and fins and increases control over that melt pool. Lastly, a fulament aluminum bed (more even heating and integrated magnets) with their dual textured plate and I can print anything! Yeah, I put $300 ea into three $300 printers but they're lights out awesome reliable and I'll challenge any $600 printer to a print-off.

funny enough, i have a 0.25mm nozzle on my X1, and I'm currently running a 5 day and 12 hour print, not tall, just a lot of parts for a 1/10th scale Aston Martin f1 car, and so far 31 hours it everything is perfect, this is also around 700 hours of print time without a bed cable strain relief piece, i plan on making one eventually, but gotta time crunch to get this model kit done for a birthday

not bad! don't forget a wall brace, 4 this machine!

I have two X1 machines, only mods are hotend-extruder combos, on one i have Hemera and on other LGX with Mosquito magnum. Reason is just what you said, inconsistent extrusion and frequent jamming (I run them 24/7 and only use quality filament like Prusament, Filamentum...), soon I will get couple X2 machines (beside Vorons I am building) and i don't even mind that LGX+Mosquito is more pricier than whole printer as it works like tank (beside my Prusa machines which are great but much smaller in print volume). Great review, I really enjoy your content!

Looks like some sensible incremental improvements. Wonder if they sell the parts for the changes to upgrade the X1? Hmm..

Angu5 flexing his music making gear.

the imperfection details in large models is due to the nozzle or at least in my case, I put a E3D nozzle and it solved the issue.

1:36 They added this so that you can add an Endstop switch if you don't like the ABL Sensor to be the endstop

I would love to see a test video of the X2, seeing the effects of different parts alongside this control video would be really helpful!

I got lucky and bought the first 3d printer i could fine.. the x1 and i love it i don't even watch the first layer anymore i plug it in and pres start and go to bed super reliable once you get it going. would def recommend adding another fan though I would get this one but imma go resin as my next one

Good review, put review in the title. Your video is the first review that was a review and not just an unboxing. LOL you know how the other power plugs look like, how else would you know if they did send the right one?

Impaling my creativity is so Vlad the Impaler 👿 💪💪💪

if you replace the z lead screw nuts with pom anti backlash nuts, a large large portion of the zbanding will resolve. similarly there are aftermarket files out there to brace the z axis with a hypotenuse style brace between the top of the z axis and the base of the printer itself. that usually fixes the banding issues on most sidewinder printers.

That is beautiful my man. If you ever need to get rid of prints that didn't go well I'd love to salvage them. Edit: I am not tech savvy enough to work one of those magical machines nor do I have an interest in learning how, my mediums have always been hands on, but I am still absolutely amazed how things have progressed since the late 1980's.

Came for the printing, stayed for those pants.

Eager to try the new tolerance tests!

I like a lot of the features but one of the things that has sold it to me is just how quiet it is especially as I will have it in my bedroom

i bought a sidewinder x1 about a year and a half ago after your recommendation (made sure to address the small problems) and i love it! for anyone wondering, the cura profile they made works wonders for beginners to more diy-ish printers (for context, i had a makerbot 5th gen before this and with that i couldn’t have changed many detailed settings if i tried)

yess!!!! please do some tests to see what they if they help the z axis and or hurt it thank you kyle

At least they are trying !

On my X1 I removed the timing belt on the dual Z and activated Z_STEPPER_AUTO_ALIGN in Marlin. It allows me to level the X axis gantry using my BLTouch probe. I just level it at the start of my printing day and I'm good to go. My print quality is noticeably improved with the dual Z no longer tied together.

On my x1, definitely had extrusion issues over time, especially since I use 230C. The 0.4 would periodically get clogged and start under-extruding. Would need to remove the nozzle and clear the obstruction. It's always good to have pack of spares on hand to quick change.

I have a X1 and i changed the z nuts to a spring loaded type/ way nicer couplers and it made ALOT of banding go away

This bed has huge cold spots (5pcs) They are present on X1 and Genius Pro too (check with thermal camera)

Nice JP man!

It's probaly called the "X" because the most modern version of the Aim-9 (Sidewinder) is the Aim-9X, therefore calling their printer the most modern version

The permanent bed killed it for me.

Very thorough review. Great job.

Tests, yes!!! Please swap out the extruder as well. I have been fighting with ASX1 banding for months....Have tried various lead couplers, anti wobble Z-carriage mounts .etc I also think the old tension balanced Z-axis carriage is part of the problem. But have been wondering about the extrusion. Also, a tray full of parts seems to show different banding in different areas, for instance the edges of the x-axis vs the center. Please investigate!

Got to be honest the last thing I need is another 3D printer. Have ten already but if I did need a replacement for my cr10 I would definitely consider this. Still not keen on the ribbon cables but it is good to see they are trying to make this better. One query though. The bed is not removable but can you stick a magnetic flex bed on top of the glass bed?

Cant wait for the artilery aamraam c5 comes out

Take them off!

I would love to see a video on those couplers. I have an X1 and I love it but it does have some of those issues you mention. Love your content mate.

Those X1 ribbon cables were NOT a huge failure point... unless you did not know how to plug them in in the first place. Seated correctly they work fine. Mine, and the 2 other X1's my friends have, work fine and have never given a moments trouble. And the print surface "wearing out"???? Really? You are going to wear out GLASS? If you mean the coating that is nothing to worry about as regular old hair spray works better anyway. PS: The unused plug you mentioned at 1:38 is for an OPTIONAL endstop on the upper Z-axis. Not necessary but there if you want to fit one.