Outstanding!!!! The very simple demonstration of leaving a space between the piece of drywall and the door when knocking on it really drove home the two-wall concept. Sold. Two walls it is. (Had my drums in a single-wall box years ago - still needed soundoff pads on the drums - the next one is going to be a double-wall-er...) :)
So glad I could help! Air gaps are a must have for drums I think, but no matter how you slice it, drums are stinking loud! I’d also pay close attention to the door, that’s the biggest thing I noticed. When my double door is shut, my wife has no complaints. Yesterday I did a little recording and only closed my inside door, she came down wondering why I was so loud all of a sudden. Any opening in a wall is a chance to ruin any barrier you have set up. Thanks so much for checking out my work!
@@JackofAllMinistries your comment regarding 2x6's was interesting. I'm planning on making a "drum box" in the garage. The plan is to make a "box within a box". The inner box made of 2x4 studs with 2 layers of 5/8in drywall on the inside, the outer 2x4 stud box with 2 layers of 5/8in drywall on the outside. I'll likely do the same for the ceilings (likely 2x6's). Then I may just make doors using giant hinges and 2x4's and plywood / drywall. I particularly liked your idea of using flexible carpet glue. Any thoughts regarding my chance of success with this approach? Inner dimensions probably about 10 x 10. (I had a 9 x 9 drum box in the past, and it was big enough to feel OK inside). I'm enjoying your videos!!!
@@jamessbca Sounds like a solid plan to me! I have very few regrets over how mine turned out. I’m a big proponent of carpet glue over green glue. I just can’t get over how expensive that stuff is getting. I’d make sure to get the Robert’s 3095 though - that’s the only brand I know for sure stays tacky long term.
Great video. Thank you. It now makes me think about, and explain to others much more clearly. Building out my studio, the double stud wall frame was just constructed. Electrical is next!
Thanks for making this very informative video. It is one of the very few correct explorations out there of the three key items that you need to focus on. I also enjoyed your other videos testing the different wall structures and materials. Keep up the great work.
Thanks! Any specific pointers/tips on doing a 'simplified' soundproofing of an uninsulated wall between two bedrooms for instance? I've heard insulation alone isn't going to do a whole lot but it may help slightly. Right now, I'm just trying to figure out how to eliminate the ability to have a conversation through the wall with the person on the other side hahaha.
Insulation definitely helps, but isn't a cure-all type of thing. Fortunately, if conversations are the issue those frequencies are some of the easier ones to stop. Doubling up 5/8" drywall is easy and helpful. Making sure there is no flanking noise is important. Sound travelling through vents, outlets, stuff like that. If you have access to the studs, insulation is helpful and adding MLV will go that extra mile - but it's expensive. Likely not needed just for conversations. Hope that helps!
@@JackofAllMinistries Thanks! Yea, I'm not trying to turn one or both rooms into a fully sound-proofed recording studio - just trying to add a bit more privacy and noise dampening (especially for snoring haha). Would you say that applying carpet glue between both drywall boards is a good idea too? Otherwise, it sounds like blowing in cellulose might help a little and then adding the extra 5/8 drywall would be beneficial (is there a specific type/brand of 5/8 drywall btw like the fire/acoustic rated types etc?). There Are at least 1-2 outlets on each side of that separating wall - would the OSI SC175 acoustical caulk be OK to seal any gaps between the electrical boxes and drywall then if we were trying to avoid opening the drywall up to apply those clay pads, etc? Was also curious if it makes a difference which room we apply the extra drywall in. The master has a vaulted ceiling that extends higher (up the attic) than the room next door - it would definitely be less expensive and less complicated to add the drywall in the next door room as it's standard 8' height
@@jplee3 Carpet glue will definitely help! Not earth shattering, but will make a difference and the cost is low. Use 5/8" Type X drywall - it's thicker than 1/2" obviously and denser. You can drywall either room, but keep in mind that if you don't do the room with the vaulted ceiling, you might have flanking noise transfer through that vaulted wall and through the ceiling of the next room (or vice versa). For snoring and talking it shouldn't be a big deal, but something to consider. If you don't want to do putty pads, sealing with any flexible caulk will help (the acoustic stuff is designed for it but I'm not sure it's worth the extra cost. Since you're probably not looking at more than 1-2 tubes it shouldn't be a big deal. Good luck!
Great content and very illustrative analogies! Let me ask you something. Why would you choose to leave an airgap like you did on your ceiling instead of filling the space with an insulation material such as rockwool?
Thanks, and great question. Soundproofing has been proven to be very effective when waves have to pass through multiple materials with different densities, especially when this includes air gaps. Sound can pass through two sheets of plywood that are touching much easier than two sheets that are gapped. The gap also allows for decoupling, which means the first layer may begin to vibrate, but because it’s not touching the second layer, it can’t transfer that vibration. This is especially useful for impact noise. While Rockwool would add density, it would also bring the surfaces mechanically into contact with other. You might think something as flexible as insulation wouldn’t transfer, but it does. I hope this makes sense…
@@JackofAllMinistries Thank you for your response. You're right, my rationale was that the rockwool wouldn't transfer the vibration from one hard surface to the other (at least not in a meaningful way), much like I would expect to happen inside a wall. Otherwise, it would be better to just leave this gap empty. I think, as you mentioned, the main difference might be the nature of an impact noise, but I'm not sure. Thank you once again... I have other videos from you opened here for me to watch!
My neighbors backyard is right next to be bedroom and I'm thinking of adding another layer of drywall. They are constantly blasting music and yelling, and I can hear the sound coming the walls. Would you suggest a resileant channel and extra drywall or green/carpet glue and a extra drywall. Also what type/brand of carpet glue do you recommend.
Virtually anything you add will help. Just keep in mind that there are often weak spots that make other efforts unnecessary. For example, you can put up a foot worth of materials on a wall, but if that old window or AC vent or whatever is still there, sound will keep pouring in. The only carpet glue I know of that works well is Roberts 3095. I think the one I used ended up hardening over time.
@@Godselfsoundz There are a lot of questions to answer on that one. Mainly, what kind of sound is going to be in there, how isolated do you want it to be, and what does your budget look like? If it's just vocals, it's much easier to isolate than if you want bass, brass or are planning to record drum sounds (I'm assuming you can't fit a drum set in there). If you want it totally isolated, that'll take work and money, but if you're okay with taking out the majority of sound that'll save you some. For most people in that situation, they're just looking at vocals and would spend more effort on tuning the space to sound good rather than trying to proof (remember they are different). Soundproofing for that could be largely handled by putting in a solid core door and sealing any gaps in the door. Feel free to shoot me an email with details to jackofallministries@gmail.com and I'll see what I can do.
Honestly you probably wouldn't get the results you wanted Impact noise is best treated by "decoupling" surfaces. Sound travels through connected structures - so the floor to the joists to the drywall. To stop that transfer there needs to be a break in contact (or at least a minimization of contact). It also helps to add a buffer between contacting surfaces like rubber, felt, or something like that. So this would be like adding another layer of drywall underneath the existing drywall with resilient channel or something like that. You could also add layers of carpeting or underlayment on the floor above. I've heard that people have had some success with area rugs or carpeting with mass loaded vinyl underneath.
How can i contact you? i need to sound block my door. Door isnot beeing used so a wall can be build around it. Door is an apartment devider. Please help. ihavesleepless nights. My neighbour listens tv loud from 2 or 4 a.m. my landlord refused to help .
If there’s some sort of limp mass to deaden vibration. If you picture a drum with two heads, vibrating the top head transfers through the air on the drum and vibrates the bottom head. If the surfaces are taught the same can happen in a wall, so limpness will prevent activation of the material.
