My favorite TUDOR in 2023 so far totally flew under the radar at Watches and Wonder. Download the new WatchCrunch app and join the best online community for talking watches!
You know! I sooo agree with this title! I think the BB31-41 in general are so underrated. Loving the new “5 link” bracelet… definitely nothing jubilee. 😜💕 awesome review as always!
Your analysis as spot-on as it gets. Finally I realize what made me sell even the quirky North Flag back in the days. The desire of Tudor to be anything and everything, which is in line with the Zeitgeist of the post-covid 21st century. North Flag, what a quirky, fun tool watch - with integrated bracelet. Tudor’s best days after its revival ended with the old Pelagos.
I’ve just bought this watch for my wedding watch. In person the dial is incredibly beautiful, I was next door to the Seiko AD and I preferred it to all the grand seiko dials. For me it’s perfect as a wedding watch, I can wear it with anything in the future and not have to feel too dressed up or down.
I'm the owner of the previous generation bb36 blue dial and it has quietly been the most enjoyable watch I've ever owned. Whenever i consider throwing something else on it just doesn't hit the same notes. I already have my eyes on the new champagne dial 36 as a slightly fancier but hopefully just as versatile addition to the family. Can't wait to see it in person. Still hasn't showed up at area dealers.
Hi Max, thank you for the insight/review of this watch. I've finally made the decision to purchase this actuel Tudor model. Thank you so much to make me do it! By the way, awsome RU-vid channel! Greets from Belgium 😎👍
GADA watches I think are for people that are not into different watches but just want one watch that tells the time accurately and will suit all occasions that they never have to think about or take off the wrist. This is the perfect watch for that. Watch collectors will never be satisfied with just one watch no matter how nice.It’s like an addiction.
GADA watches are for people who want a quality watch but have other financial obligations and interests. If one has $5k to spend, is it better to have 1X $5k watch or 3X $1.5k watches?
You can get a couple of these types and rotate them around. I've got an Explorer I and just picked up the champagne dial for this model and it's a great two watch combo.
To each their own , I have found out throughout my life sometimes we need better perspective. I will never again fall deep in a hobby where I lose the point . Seen it and experienced it you get so bored you look for reasons to get excited about something 95% of people could careless or even notice the difference but you and like a few others dudes can lol . Thank you for this video I never considered a Tudor but this one is simple and elegant just what I’m looking for .
Great video Max. We got into this a bit at Windup. I’ve got the BB36 Blue, like you mentioned in the vid… for me it’s been the ideal “first luxury watch” that’s managed to work perfectly for each and every occasion that’s required a slightly nicer watch. I also allows me to keep having fun with all kinds of great watches at the more approachable end of the watch world while soundly checking that luxury box.
Maybe one thing overlooked in Max’s assessment of GADA watches is that for some collectors, we just like GADA watches as a specific style choice, and not so much as a one and done. I own four “GADA” watches, and each one does something different for me, be it functionality like an adjustable hour hand, or just plane aesthetics. Great review - I’m about two months into a new BB39 S&G “gray” dial with the jubilee and chunky clasp. I love this watch, but it gets competition from my Globemaster and AT, and maybe not as much but still some competition for my Tissot Gentleman. Regardless of my thoughts, Max is spot on regarding those who might want a watch that does a specific thing - I totally get that, but again my taste go for the GADA, but not just one GADA, I guess…!
I agree and would go even further: I feel like i'm wearing a costume when wearing a dress-watch. That is clearly not who i am... but a metall-GADA watch like bb36, Sinn556... are sporty, masculin but still elegant. To wear it with a hoody and leatherjacket and later in the evening with an elegant shirt just tells me that this watch truly belongst to me and i'm not using it to give an impression about myself... if that makes any sense..
Ditto that. I'm not particularly interested in sport watches either. I just want a good looking watch, that I can dress up or down, with a metal bracelet added to the collection (all of my watches have leather straps). Black Bay ticks all the boxes.@@aljoschawolff4069
The thing that noone talks about with the new BB36 or 39 range is how they made the case sides rounder like the Rolex Oyster case. I like it alot more than the slab style case on the previous gen BB36 that I have.
I agree totally, great video. Spot on. At $4000 with a in house movement, awesome bracelet with adjustable clasp and GADA looks hits the sweet spot just right. Omega could learn a thing or two with the bracelet. Yes we want a watch for all occasions.
I like a GADA that borders a little more on the dressy side. That way I have a formal watch and a nice watch for casual occassions. Perhaps with a little extra flair to keep things interesting. I find that the GADA category is especially useful for travel where I don't want to carry multiple watches with me
Not sure the comparison of GADA watches with Maserati really works, but I see your point. I also am of the opinion that part of the joy of watch collecting comes from picking up the right one for the right moment. I spent a great weekend with friends, taking long walks by the sea and enjoying great food and wine, rocking my BlackBay 58 for 3 days because it felt perfect for the occasion. But the next day, I needed my Grand Seiko SBGN003 on my wrist for the luxury feeling and then the faithful Sinn556 (not selling mine) to run some errands and be out and about in short sleeves, not worrying of someone paying too much attention to my wrist gear.
This is by far May favorite watch and most of my watches are gada watches. Tudor Royal. Tudor Glamour Date Date, white OP, Speedmaster racing. Glad you did this review!!
I could not agree more! I prefer watches with a dedicated purpose and a little twist in another direction which gives the piece a unique character: Longines Avigation Big Eye: a vintage chrono that can also fulfil both field and dress purposes; The new Bronze brown Aquascaphe from Baltic - a great 200m diver, but also a characterful svelte dress watch (ala a gold Yachmaster ;)); Or, a goldplated dress watch with some action-proof shock resistance (like the ones Certina makes). I only just started my collecting journey with a Hamilton Khaki Field, which too can fulfil a range of purposes yet is not a GADA piece.
I have a new BB41 and I love it. I can’t take it off even when I’m sleeping. It is perfect for almost any occasion and I wear it at work while I wear a suit.
Totally agree, that's why I sold my Explorer I 214270 MK2, I replaced it with a Grand Seiko SBGA301 and couldnt be happier. I just thought the Explorer didnt fit my collection. I still have my Zenith Chronomaster, Cartier Tank MC, Omega SMP Diver, IWC Spitfire to cherish 😊. Cheers from Mexico 🇲🇽
Best content so far about BB. I agree with you, but I'm not as deep into the hobby, so it is a very good alternative to your IWC Mark XX. I know it sounds weird, but it makes sense a lot in my collection structure. Thank you for your work.
In my experience, a GADA watch is more about versatility than being a one watch collection. Watch collectors seem to want watches that fit their lifestyle and the different situations they will encounter. I love the changes to this line. This watch is a great addition to a collection, even if it's your only watch.
I think the new BB smooth bezel line looks great, but I do agree somewhat. Also it is more hybrid than ever before. the old BB smooth bezel was a an explorer or OP substitute with its lacquer blue or black dial and oyster-style bracelet. Adding in the 5-link bracelet and sunburst dial moves it into a hybrid-OP (sunburst dial but with a 5-link) or dateless smooth-bezel DJ, which is a cool but odd combo. and with the ranger also being an explorer 39 alternative, the new BB smooth bezel moves away from being the explorer alternative. I too would rather have more specific watches for certain functions/complications/occasions than the do-it-all. I'd still choose the DJ 36, an OP, or an explorer over this since those provide certain uses while this is trying to be a combo of them.
You’re so right about GADA watches. I can see this being someone’s first luxury watch but as they get deeper into the hobby, they will probably be more intentional with their purchases and end up purchasing purpose built watches which is the sickness we all have 😂. Also, it was great running into at Windup in SF and seeing you test drive the BB39!
I have 6 or 7 "nicer' watches including perhaps the paradigmatic GADA a Rolex Explorer I. But if I had to go down to one and done it would be my GS Skyflake. 100M WR, 72 hour PR, hyper accurate nicely finished movement visible behind an open casebook. Dressy on leather, sporty on a steel bracelet, rubber or Nato, and easy to change with drilled lugs. It has useful date and PR complications, but perhaps most importantly it is simply beautiful to look at which separates from the more typical utilitarian looking GADAs. Therefore it remains to me as a piece of performative jewelry that can stand the test of time. #2 on the list (for another time), my 37mm Rhodium Yachtmaster.
These have long been a staple of customizers in the Seiko world who want a dressy version of the SKX. Now if only they’d get to branching out into other colors. A white, and matte black, and a few colors would be a real draw.
I was eyeing the BB54 but the AD said the wait list is quite long. He suggested I have a look at the BB36, so I did. Left the store with the BB36 S&G with no regrets!
An interesting view Max. In the UK we have a saying "Jack of all trades mater of none", and I think that sums up this watch. As you say a watch that tries to be many things is likely to be a compromise for everything. The advantage of a GADA for me is probably for a daily watch, good enough for the office without being too showy, good enough for more formal occasions but has decent water resistance without looking like a tool watch. The downside as you mention is that they can seem boring but functional and smart. I have the discontinued BB 36mm plain black dial that I have no plans to move on any time soon. As much as I like the new 39 I'm unlikely to be able to justify it.
I’m on the side that GADA watches are great for begginers. I have my first entry-luxury watch and I chose black dial, steel sporty watch to test the waters. It assured me that I enjoy the hobby, so right now I’m waiting for my less versatile dress watch delivery
I picked up a SINN 556a RS after your recent review pushed me over the line But your 1000% right though, I love the watch but I don’t pick it up anywhere as regular as I though I would because I’ve got other watches that meet my need for the specific purpose🤔 But I’m not sure I’m ready to sell…. because it’s such a awesome piece Another great review and love how you don’t just try and make every watch sound amazing
Love the new BB 39mm, could be my second Gada watch beside my black Sinn 556i. Those two could be the everyday black and blue base of my small collection. The more dressier models in my collection like my Junghans Max Bill handwind or my Longines Dolce Vita are for special occasions, my Longines HydroConquest as my first real watch will stay as well as a kind of beater watch
Very nice. I was waiting for someone to make this video. I could easily go for the 39 with the guilt dial. I used to own a 36 with the ETA and eventually upgraded a couple of watches to a 39 Explorer, but this black bay, at 39 on jubilee with the guilt dial, 70hrs power and the T-fit - very compelling watch. I could easily see myself swapping the explorer for this and pocket the change.
I have a small collection with a few purpose built watches but I still very much enjoy GADA pieces too. I like to be able to not think about what I am going to do OR even grab one watch for a vacation and be done with it. Watches like this BB series are perfect for that and I think you should have at least one of those in your collection.
Oh man, you hit the nail on the head! I also don’t stand naked in front of my collection scratching my head…. On Tuesdays. I have looked at these watches probably 10 times. Blue, black, for myself, as a matched set for my wife and I. SOMETHING always made me pass on them and I never understood why. Now I know. It’s too….. generic. It’s inoffensive. It’s for those that need/want ONE “good watch” and nothing more. Nothing wrong with that. But some days I feel like Monaco. Some days BBGMT. Others, Big Pilot. And some days.. the yellow Polo shirt calls for they yellow pop of North Flag. And of course Tuesdays I need to LARP as Buzz Aldrin. The problem is… it is never ending. I need help. Subscribed!
Awesome vid. I see your point about GADA watches but there’s also something special behind owning a GADA watch. As it spends more time on your wrist it also builds up memory with you and over time will mean a lot to you. Sentimental value. Of course also over time as you said you may also get bored of it with its simple design. Just have fun. Don’t over think it. Life is short
Really great interpretation of this beauty. If I didn’t have an Aqua Terra and a 925, neither of which I’m planning to part with, how much wrist time would it get? Especially with a 214270 in my collection. If I was just starting out, I could see myself picking this or the AT as my go to purchase. Hey, what do you think of the 36? TBH I hadn’t even thought of the 39 as an option
GADA watches are nice to have. I believe having a balance is key to a collection (3 watches or more). I go by how it makes you feel and how you would like to style your watch.
Nice review. That brown is very nice; and the bracelet is amazing. I think 1st higher end watch is the answer. Some will probably end up moving up in their profession and move to more expensive pieces and either sell it or keep it for travel/beater - or be so content with it they spend their money on other things besides watches.
Outstanding review, I didn't know about the BB39 I thought it was 36 or 41. I tried on a 41 and felt it wore large and I know the 36 is too small for my 7.5" wrist. Even better you brought up the whole notion of GADA watch, and I feel like I wear those type less and less. I am looking for a "birthday watch " under 5 k and I think i can cross this off the list as good as it is.
For me, GADA tends to be "Goldilocks" as it isn't too much of any one thing making it just right for everything. The only real problem with a GADA watch (imo) is that it doesn't encourage wrist time on the rest of my collection. I wear my GADAs way more than I do my dive, dress, or chronos. For my part, I loved the old BB black. Loved the crown, the second hand, and the case. I didn't love the movement and size options though as the 36 band was intended to fit a 6.50 inch wrist at most. I broke down and bought the old BB36 the day they unveiled the new Anthracite/Gilt though and paired it was an Uncle Seiko/Strap US1450 bracelet. It's all I've been wearing since.
You're so right about the J style bracelet lifting a watch. I put one on my sarb033 and it makes the watch pop. I don't know why everyone opts for O style bracelets, I think they are boring. That Tudor would not replace my 033 as a GADA watch, no date, silly looking lopped off hour hand etc. I do like the adjustable clasp though.
For me, GADA watches are the quick and easy choice when you don't have time to choose from your collection or don't want to make the wrong choice. You can't go wrong choosing a GADA without thinking or overthinking what watch you to wear right now ! 😎👌
My favourite Tudor release this year has to be the new BB 36 in blue. I do feel like they ruined the black dial by going with gilt though... but each their own I guess!
I kinda feel that they ruined them all unfortunately. I loved the old blue and was actually waiting on the updated clasp and movement to buy it. But now I am not interested in it. And it's not just the color, idk why but the proportions of dial bezel and indices seem different - might just be the videos though, idk Edit: oh and I loved the oyster bracelet and the old crown. Jubilee is great as well, but with the round indices I dont think it works as great. Oyster was certainly sportier and better for a do-it-all watch (imo, obviously). I feel that this new one is way dressier. What I wanted was really just the clasp and movement updated while keeping everything else the same. I now fear that they'll also change the 58 when they finally give it the T fit clasp.
@@tiagodvt I don’t think your eyes are deceiving you! Handset has changed and I’m pretty sure dial elements got a bit smaller in addition to the removal of that famous “self winding” text.
You are right about Maserati! They profess to be an out and out Italian sports car, yet they give off the air of a luxury and sophisticated Bentley type car! Great review on the BB too!
I have my SARB035 as my GADA, and it’s a great watch, but I really like wearing a watch with a timing bezel! I use it a lot & miss it when I’m wearing a watch without one.
They have a place if you like them in any collection. After years of collecting I do not need a GADA watch, but I recently purchased the new Explorer 40 and I love it. Not for any GADA ability, I just like it. One person's view of go anywhere will be different to another. I view the Moonwatch as a go anywhere watch for example, and many would disagree. But I live nowhere ear the Sea and I can wear my Moonwatch anywhere in my daily life.
I feel this way about the Sinn 104 and Hamilton Khaki King and sold them both. I could see me wearing this, an Aqua Terra, or an Explorer though. Something about a slightly refined tool watch on a bracelet that works well in the field or with a blazer.
I cannot coment on what collectors want but it looks like the perfect watch for someone who wants one nice watch. I have a DateJust 16220, it has been my only watch, and I have worn it everyday for over 25 years. If i was in the market for a watch today I would seriously consider this Tudor as a more affordable alternative to an Oyster Perpetual or an Explorer. By the way the Jubilee bracelet is a nice addition.
I started with a tame GADA watch, then I found some quirky specialist watches and a year later I ended with another, considerably better GADA watch. And I wear it half the time. I wear the rest of my watches for the rest. It doesn't have everything I need from a GADA watch, so I'm planning for another one and I hope when I finally settle on something, I can sell off my previous attempts at GADA watches, keep the few dearest specialists and my collection slim.
Bro!! That dial colour is CRAZY! i don't see any brown though, i see a weird kind of grey/dark grey. I thought only black dials looked good but this one right here is really different. I don't mind the smooth bezel either. Great watch I think il have to check that colour dial in person. Might look different
Great review and perspective. One of my first big watch purchases was a GADA (SARB033). At the time my thought process was if I'm going to spend this much on a watch I want to wear it everyday everywhere! Now I have more watches that cost more and do less but that's another conversation. Another (I guess subjective) improvement on the black bay line not mentioned in the video is that it no longer has that gasket between the crown and case. When I started my search for my first luxury purchase k considered the BB36. At the time I didn't like the bracelet not the gasket. I later came to find out the two tone BB36 at the time had a jubilee style bracelets. Last year they updates that watch by removing the gasket and now they've upgrades the stainless steel line with the new bracelet and movement and removal of the gasket. It would have been a good option a few years ago!!
Great video. And you put your finger right on the same spot that I arrived at yesterday, when trying on the BB54 (again)… I think it’s a near perfect watch, however I just don’t know when I would wear it ! I suspect you’re right in that it’s probably a result of being spoiled for choice with the GADA watches I already own. And whilst I keep flirting with the idea of buying one, does this mean that I will never buy a Tudor ? If anything, the smaller size is a reason why I would opt for the BB54 and take the plunge. I already own an Explorer I (39mm) and consequently see little/no reason to go down the route of this BB39. But the point you make is very valid… have I reached my ‘watch saturation point’ ?
You’re right. A GADA watch is the gatekeeper at the entrance of the watch-collecting rabbit hole. Once you get deep into the levels of Rolex, Lange, Vacheron, you’re so deep into the rabbit hole that you always turn to a custom-purpose watch suited for each occasion.
You don’t need to be able to afford Rolex, Lange, Vacheron to get deep into collecting watches and go beyond GADA models. Seiko, Tissot, Hamilton, and many other brands offer great specialist watches that most people can afford.
Entirely right.... as your collection evolves you look for more oddball choices. My most recent purchase was a Panerai Luminor Marina 44mm, I would not have purchased that if my collection was only just beginning
i have the old iteration of the bb36 in steel and gold with the black dial. it looks very much like this one but i prefer the brushed gold to the polished gold. very classy looking and the jubilee bracelet is amazing
Also my favorite tudor release is the chocolate royal which nobody else seems to care about so hopefully I can get a good deal on one. My 1926 S&G is my favorite watch so I'm not really a BB sort
Nailed it. GADA watches are for people who only intend to have one. I think the only watch that manages to thread the needle of versatility and satisfaction is the aquaterra. Going from bracelet to strap you can adapt it to a lot.
Ah, no. Most seasoned collectors have a GADA watch in their collection. I find quite the opposite is true. Newer collectors 0-10 years don’t have one because they are always looking for their next watch because they really don’t know what they want. They usually have too many watches. Always have three separate categories. Sport, Dress, Tool. As you become more a seasoned collector that desire goes away because you know what to look for and what you want. You have it backwards my friend.
I totally agree about GADA watches. I am slowly moving into the luxury tier and the Aqua Terra is on my radar. But I dont want a watch I wear every day, and as a highlight of my current collection its likely to be a 'business and best' watch, so more dressy works better. I do have GADA watches, but I dont think they work as well at the luxury end. My GADA watches are Christopher Ward or Oris, and have become 'daily office' wear, watches I wear for me alone and not for any specific occasion.
Sort of the same for me. I rotate a small collection at work (Chris Ward Sandhurst Bronze or Oris Aquis), while retaining Cartier for special occasions. Many watches could be a GADA, but variety is the spice of life, right?
I love the GADA philosophy, it really fits in well with my capsule wardrobe. Also, I just find it annoying to constantly wind a bunch of mechanical watches or have to reset them when they run out of power, so I'd rather just have one that I dont have to worry about. I have a lot of watches, but honestly you really only need one or two good ones, and I may get rid of the rest.
This is on my list of his and her watch with my wife. Interestingly I prefer 36mm for my 6.5in wrist while I love my Hermès Slim(39.5cm) and Credor Eichi II(39mm).
