About your question, what causes them to sound different. The biggest influence in Sound, by far, in an amplifier are the capacitors. Use the exact same amp, replace the capacitors and you can have (depending on what capacitors you choose) an day to night difference. The Sony WM1Z for example is an DAP that is very famous for its modding community. And 99% of the modding is replacing the capacitors with all kind of different ones and it changes the sound signature completey. From narrow and warm to wide and cold. From fat slammy bass to thin and lifeless bass and so on. This is becasuse resistence is not linear. Resistence is always rated at 1kHz but that only tells you exactly this one frequency response. All measurements take place at 1kHz so they can measure identically, but sound completely different because the resistence at 100 Hz might be completely different for both amps. Panasonics Capacitors for example measure almost all identical at 1kHz but very different before and afterwards. So the measurement is not wrong, the opposte. Its perfectly correct, it just doesn't tell you anything important. And every single capacitor does have a different resistence at different frequency ranges (called ESR). Some companies like panasonic publish official information that shows the ESR depending on waht capacitor you choose. And its different from technology/material, size and so on. It even changes with temperature and that can be measured. Two identical Amps will sound different if one has its capacitors at 0°C and the other one at 60°C. So capacitors are _the_ thing that make the sound in an amp. So if those two sound very different, they have different capacitors. Here are some example measurements for different capacitors, just to show how different they can be: www.mouser.de/images/marketingid/2014/microsites/107134725/KEMET_T495_Tantalum_Caps_ESR_Frequency.png As the impedance of headphones also arent flat and in addition tothat, this value changes depending on how much power you draw out of them, its pretty much impossible to measure it correctly. It will be different with every headphone at every volume. Not to mention that most Amps don't use one capacitor, but like 20 of them and different kinds with different ESR and so on. Its just impossible to know. You have to buy it, plug your headphone in and test it, thats the only way.
My unit also experienced the restart issue when plugging and unplugging to the 6.35mm unbalanced. After applying the firmware update (which added the ability to change gain via the volume knob aside from the remote), it also fixed the restart issue! (now it momentarily shows a -5, then keeps on working as before) Kudos to Topping for adding a firmware update capability via the usb-c port! (the port is finicky though, and only works with type-c to type a wires like the one included, not type-c to type-c)
i have the A90. losing the toggle switches is an absolute deal-breaker for me. i use them constantly and would hate to fumble for the remote constantly.
@@dixter1652 I meant the A90 Discrete. Initially you could only change the Gain via remote, but with a recent firmware patch, it can be changed via the volume knob. Its not as convenient as a dedicated toggle switch, but still a good compromise
I’m on the same boat as you. I love my A90. Gaining a remote at the cost of the switches not worth it at all. The display is a nice touch but even then not enough. They should have left the internals the same, kept the switches, added the display and remote and called it a day. But at least Topping is still trying to improve all the time! Looking forward to an A90 Pro one day that puts all the good things in one unit. Then I will upgrade.
Kudos to Topping as a company that produces quality sounding components for comparatively reasonable prices. I have two of their D90's and the A90. I've been very happy with these products. They also know how to drive audiophiles crazy by continuing to improve a line that is already very good. There are a few deals on A90 amps, and it's tempting to want to try the A90D. That's part of the fun in this hobby, and I must admit I've thought about upgrading too. For now, I think I'll keep the old toggle switches, and look into some new headphones. Joshua's tier list will be useful to look at again. The beat goes on! Best wishes to everyone in your own audio journey.
There's a latest firmware update for A90D. Version 2.4.. Fixing the error code 5 Joshua experienced. And the gain switching can now be done with the volume knob, not only with remote control anymore Latest update also introduce volume curve profiles. Which gives more sensitive volume adjustment to use with sensitive headphones with small dB steps increments. Enjoy ;) thanks for the great review. Using it with my 2021 LCD-X balanced and I do got the same sound experience as Joshua. Was using D90 Mqa A90 for the past 2 years. Not sure if the added warmth is due to the increased current output from A90 0.5A to A90D now 1.1A continous New A90 also removed the fuse at the power input. Which gives more direct connection maybe.
I love the front switches on my A90. I'm always switching between my main monitors and my headphone/IEM outputs and gain levels. Extremely sad to see them go.
You should swap your SM7B’s pop filter. You seem to get some pretty heavy plosives coming through on your vocals. The larger filter in the box is meant for vocals and fixes this.
Thanks for the great review! You've really been a guiding force in my journey into the audiophile hobby. It's crazy to think that just a few years ago I was using Apple earpods. While this particular amp is still a teeeeny bit outside of my price range, your reviews have been extremely helpful not just in helping me decide what stuff is worth buying, but in discovering what I personally like the sound of.
The topping L30 sounds almost the same as the previous a90 mate in case you wanna try, and for a warmer more lush sound the schiit amps are even better specially the magni 3+ and the asgard 3
the sound difference you mention is quite like the sound difference I found between the A90 and the Singxer Sa-1. I sold my A90 because I liked the Singxer more.
With all due respect, I have given both the A90 and A90D a chance and I keep going back to SMSL SP400. More open, more holographic, better timbre, more power. SP400 is very hard to beat IMHO.
Do you get a kickback for these product links? Do you publish all other A/B trials for other products? Or, did you just link this A/B trial because it worked out a certain way. In this video you constantly plug your A/B trial in a way that entices your viewers to purchase a product so they can also "hear" some audible difference. Unless you are transparent with all other A/B trials you've done with other products, this seems like cherry picking data which is non-transparent.
Toggles, dials and physical buttons are always nice and preferred but once set, I'm unlikely to play with them much. My existing amp is set and ignored. Would be interested in this one.
Kinda true. I never touch the input switch and very rarely the gain. But I do switch between Pre-Amp and Headphone Amp at least 5 times a day. This Pre/Head switch was the sole reason I bought the A90 in the first place, and I love it :D Had I not wanted that switch, I probably would have cheap'ed out and bought the A30 Pro, since I already use the D30 Pro DAC.
The A90D information about the remote being required for switching things is incorrect. - A quick single tap of the volume knob will change between XLR and RCA - A quick double tap of the volume knob will change between PRE and HPA - Press and hold the volume knob to turn the unit off, then a quick tap to turn it back on. - All settings can also be accessed by using the power switch on the back and pressing and holding the volume knob in while you turn the unit on. It will enter a settings menu system that you can navigate and exit to change all settings. But this is a bit more complex because it requires you to reach around the back of the unit for the other settings... But the remote is entirely not-required to reach every setting the unit has.
Josh! I haven't seen a review from you in a while, but I can't help but seeing 143K subs since I saw you last when you were like 30k. You're killing it, man!
It might have been necessary to use 2 or 3 headphones including the Focal Clear that you like a lot... (I have the Clear and the A90!) because on some forums some find the A90D more analytical than the A90, it must depend on the headphone...
The A90D is definitely an analytical amp, it does have that added sub-bass thud but I can't hear any warmth in the lower mids. There is also some slight siblance like there was with the original A90.
I applaud your choice to do a blind test, I wish more reviewers do that, in context of practicability of course. You will get some critique about your methodology tough, randomness is lacking, ABX methodology like shown in the ABX Comparator in foobar would be scientific stronger. But I am glad for any comparative test, is a good step forward.
The A90D information about the remote being required for switching things is incorrect. - A quick single tap of the volume knob will change between XLR and RCA - A quick double tap of the volume knob will change between PRE and HPA - Press and hold the volume knob to turn the unit off, then a quick tap to turn it back on. - All settings can also be accessed by using the power switch on the back and pressing and holding the volume knob in while you turn the unit on. It will enter a settings menu system that you can navigate and exit to change all settings. But this is a bit more complex because it requires you to reach around the back of the unit for the other settings... But the remote is entirely not-required to reach every setting the unit has. - so you could lose the remote entirely and still access all settings.
The A90D's volume control also acts as a switch for various features of the unit and of course ON/OFF. The remote allows control of a few additional functions. BTW, I have the original A90 as well and was rather surprised by the sonic difference between both units. Josh, make sure you have the latest firmware installed, I believe they fixed the headphone plug-in problem for single ended can's
Hold on, so just to clarify, pressing the volume knob on the front also acts as a Power On/Off switch? If so that's wonderful because when I checked the A90D manual that wasn't mentioned anywhere - it just states the knob as "Volume knob/Multi-function Button."
@@iXzenoS yes, press and hold the volume dial to power ON/OFF the unit (after the main power switch is flipped at the back). With Firmware 2.3, the volume dial can now be used to to switch between LOW & HIGH gain as well, and switches between the mode & output's, etc...
I also have them both at the moment and found the new one sounding a little cleaner but at the same time also more analytical and fatiguing. There's more body to the sound with the original A90. I must admit that I had expected the opposite to be the case. Has this been your experience as well?
@@MistaLova-Lova No... To me the A90D definitely has more weight down low & in the mids/lower-mids. Top end extension is similar to the A90. To be fair, I mostly listen through HEDD studio monitor speakers via balanced XLR.
Seems like a nice overall upgrade but for those of us happy with our D90 it sounds like we're fine just sticking with them. In my case, I've been going for as close to neutral as possible since I'm still fairly new and have been seeking as close to technically-accurate reproduction as possible but I know that most people seem to prefer warmer sound signatures so this new amp is probably a better choice for them.
Josh, how does this amp compare to the Monolith AAA DAC/amp? I bought the AAA after your recommendation and enjoyed it. Just wondering if this is a worthwhile upgrade. I use an Ares 2 as my DAC.
Great review and as always very focused on whats important and what we didnt already know from your old review. Id really be interested in your opinion on the new Neumann NDH 30 headphones, they could be a contender to dethrone the Beyerdynamic 1990s.
Just bought a A90/D90SE stack half a year ago, but looks like I'll be selling the A90 for the new A90D. The warmer lower-end sound signature should be a better perfect match to pair with my Sennheiser HD800S.
If you like a warmer bass focused sound you may want to consider schiit asgard 3 or jotunheim 2 (also bigger soundstage), they are a lot warmer, these toppings are kind of the opposite more flat and lean If you want a stack the bifrost 2 dac is also considerably warmer than the d90, I had both stacks and kept the schiit
@@OmarDaily only the regular a90, the a90d is a bit bassier but it also has thinner body to it according to reviews, really not a good match for hd800s but thats just my opinion Jot2, monolith liquid platinum, quicksilver headphone amp, are big and warm, with way more soundstage than the original a90
OK - this may not be the place, but I thought I would give it a try: I bought both the D90LE and A90D, thanks in part to your reviews (very helpful!). The results are mostly astonishing and beautiful. One notable exception below. I am listening with a pair of HD6XX (may update later), and I notice a wide variability in sound quality (FLAC files between 44.1 and 192KHz). In particular, I have noticed that in some older recordings, the vocals get buried in the mix. I am talking about Hi Def releases from groups like The Rolling Stones, where Mick’s voice on Gimme Shelter (and other tracks) is almost gone. I have checked polarity on my cables (balanced from the D90 though to my headphones), tried swapping cables - nothing seems to help. I also tried some EQ, but there is no way to boost the vocals without messing up the rest of the mix. I suspect this is just bad mastering (most recordings sound great). Is there anything else I should try? Aside from this issue, I am loving what I am hearing. Even the instrumentals on the Stones recordings are great - just the vocal balance is off. One other thing: I am using Media Center for playback and the audio path has no modifications - clean digital from stereo file to the DAC.
I have the A90D, and unfortunately the USB-C port for firmware updates does NOT follow USB-IF specifications. This means you can NOT use a USB-C to USB-C cable to connect it to your computer for firmware updates. The borked A90D USB-C port only works with a USB-C to USB-A cable. This violates USB-IF specifications, and is likely due to a couple of missing resistors in the USB-C port design. And nothing on the Topping site or firmware update instructions indicate this issue. The problem was confirmed by a Topping rep on one of the audio forum sites. I opened a support case with Topping and waiting to hear back if they are going to revise the hardware with a compliant USB-C port, or not. Either way, my A90D is being returned and I'll only buy another if they fix the USB-C port. Going back to my regular A90 for the time being.
Very small thing to get hung up about, let alone returning the unit over. How often do you expect to be using the USB-C port over the lifetime of the device? I would expect not more than what you can count on one hand...
@@Greg.Siucrazyforaudio2016 I don't have an adapter, but do you really think there is a difference between using an adapter and then using a cable that is just made with usb-C at one end and usb-A at the other??
Hi mate - love your channel. I have just purchased a pair of Focal Elegia Headphones after listening to your reviews on them. I love metal and generally prefer a warmer sound. Have you paired your Elegias to this Amp ? Keen on your thoughts (or anyone else’s as I’m looking for an another to match the Elegias to my warmer taste 🇦🇺 🍺👍🏼
I propose Topping use rocker toggle switchs. These allow a front facing switching function that does not interfere with remote control use. They return to their centered resting position, and could be mounted to work alongside the display.
Hi Joshua thanks for video, can you compare EF600 and Topping A90D + D90SE please? Is it heaven and dude or is comparable on same level? Thanks for answer
Looks great… but I don’t think I could ever buy a product that you can only change inputs and gain with a remote, too risky. If they had the toggle switch’s I’d be all over this!!
The A90D information about the remote being required for switching things is incorrect. - A quick single tap of the volume knob will change between XLR and RCA - A quick double tap of the volume knob will change between PRE and HPA - Press and hold the volume knob to turn the unit off, then a quick tap to turn it back on. - All settings can also be accessed by using the power switch on the back and pressing and holding the volume knob in while you turn the unit on. It will enter a settings menu system that you can navigate and exit to change all settings. But this is a bit more complex because it requires you to reach around the back of the unit for the other settings... But the remote is entirely not-required to reach every setting the unit has.
Excellent review, finally pushed me over the edge to grab one of these! By the way, would love to know the names of the tracks used in this video. Thanks for your dedication!
Nice review Josh! You didn't mention its pre amplifier qualities. Would love to know your response. BTW I have placed the order for its match with D90MQA.
I'll pass on this one since they decided to change out the toggle switches for a remote control. Not sure why a remote control is better than toggle switches since most of these units will be used on people's desks where physical switches make a lot more sense. Hopefully they will release a model with toggle switches and make most of us happy and sell a crap load more of them.
the remote upgrade is IT for me, been listening on a couch for awhile and cant find anyone selling he Dx7s anymore so its great. been aiming he TA-ZH1ES now im firmly onto Topping
Hi. I have a dx7 pro that I use with my Clear mg and in rca on the denon in stereo. I am very hesitant between the A70 Pro and the a90d. What are the differences? Which one would you recommend?
Thanks, Joshua, for all your very valuable reviews. I thoroughly agree with your analysis of the Hifiman Sundara, which I have purchased with no regrets, having had an opportunity to compare these headphones with the competition, including less well-known brands. I would like to use these headphones with my Roland RD-64 keyboard, which I mostly use for the (quite realistic) piano sound. Unfortunately, these headphones are power angry and the keyboard delivers... no power at all. The keyboard is so quiet that I do not even have the option of using less demanding headphones. It does need amplification. Other keyboard players, using Roland or other brands (e.g., Yamaha) encounter the same kind of issue with the piano sound. However, there is little info out there concerning the best way of achieving headphone amplification with a keyboard. So my question is this: could one use one of the Topping amps? Maybe the A90D? Would other amps also work, e.g. the Singxer SA-1 which the gentleman behind Passion for Sound recommends for piano recordings? Happy New Year!
Josh, have you ever tired the Phonitor SE headphone amp, and what are your thoughts on it compared to the A90D? The reason I asked is there is a RU-vid video of the A90 vs the SPL out there which I won't paste here. The reviewer has both side by side. He said the A90 is a fantastic unit for its price, but when he then hooked up the SPL, he said there was more detail, more black in the background and for him, at 13:49 moving forward on the video he said it sounded better.
Thanks Josh! was waiting for this review ever since I saw this new version was out. I want to step up from a ZenDAC. I think an A90D might pair well with an Ares 2 but I need to know if I can connect them together or if a preamp will be needed since the Ares doesn’t appear to have a preamp.
You don't need a preamp; Ares 2 can output either RCA or XLR and that can go into the A90. It ll always be at 100% volume from the Ares 2 but you can adjust final volume on your headphones with the A90. Many people connect Ares 2 to A90s. It's the same with the A90D, all inputs and outputs are the same.
Now i want to buy the new version even more. What DAC would you pair this with and would you recommend this for the Sennheiser HD6xx and for the hifiman XS?
Great review - I just received some Mass Drop 6xx headphones and I really like them. I am using a Fiio K3 to drive them and that is okay but it feels a tad bit under powered. I am looking to spend about $200 for an all in one DAC/Amp. I have it narrowed down to the Schiit Hel, Fiio K5, or the Topping DX3 pro. In your opinion, which would be the better choice here? I am not a gamer, just purely for music, but I hear the Schiit sounds pretty good.
Would you recommend A90D working with REM ADI-2 DAC FS as an AMP upgrade? I am very happy with ADI-2 DAC but wonder if I can "upgrade " the AMP part with A90D.
Which is better? This or the SP400? I need something powerful that can power hard to drive headphones like the he6 with leg room that doesn't sacrifice sound.
I think this demonstrates that reviewing audio products is more of an art than a science. Other reviewers are not so impressed with the Topping which they say is overly bright. I guess it depends what you think is a good sound.
I am looking to move up from my BD DT1990/Thx789 combo to possibly the Neumann NDH30's and the Topping A90D. Or maybe just one or the other. Can't seem to find a direct head to head with the DT1990's and the NDH30's. In the review people seem top talk around this comparison without actually addressing it. Thanks if anyone has that knowledge
The ef400 is bass boosted and warmer focused sound, its currently the best price-sound quality ratio, the topping had a neutral bright further away type of sound, its quite analytic and also better build. I prefer the hifiman.
@@christianblais3350 I personally do not own the Hifiman EF400, so I can't say for certain, try posting on the HiFi Guides forums, i've found that a good place to get more thoughts on audio stuff.
Hello there! I'm confused.... I currently have Arya Stealth with dx7pro+, and should I upgrade to a90 and use dh7pro+ as a DAC? Or even replace dx7pro+ with a90/d90 stack? I don’t plan change Arya for something else... I just hear a lot of reviews that it’s difficult to distinguish dx7pro+ from a90/d90 without a blind test... Thanks!
I wouldn't change a thing unless the L50 doesn't power your headphones. The E50 is a really lovely dac! I have the E50 into the Schiit Lyr3 and I do tube rolling and mainly listen on the HE6SE V2.
I’m looking for a reasonable amp upgrade to power my newly acquired Susvara. Would this be the best option? Or is there something better within 2x cost range?
I bought the D90SE that I use in USB and the A90 Discrete and I also bought the TCX1 cable that I plugged into the 2 devices so how do I plug in after RCA speakers? the speakers on the D90SE or on the A90 Discrete another question I have no sound on the A90 Discrete when I plug in my HIFIMAN why
Nope these type of updated editions come out all the time and they are almost always just a tiny bit better, with any headphones or amp dac is not worth to do that
I would say no. But I can definitely say the new A90D definitely sounds better, but the difference is not massive or even noticeable with every song. - It's sort of akin to liking the color Purple, but the A90D is just a slightly different shade of purple (and I think it's better, but it's not a huge difference at all.)
very close - probably the Singxer is still a bit warmer. In the end I think that the headphones, and how they pair with the amp, are the most important factor.
The 'target' for the remote is a series of holes that are just near the volume numbers, so if this is blocked from the angle you are using the remote from, then the signal will not reach the target. The remote is just flashing infra-red light at the unit after all. So if it can't reach the inputs, then it won't work. As for aiming, you have to point the remote at least in the general direction of the amp. Think of it like a flashlight.
Recently got myself into audiophile hobby so I don't have much experience with amps and dacs. As a beginner I bought a pair of m40x and recently purchased hifiman's sundara and ifi hip dac.although hip dac handles sundara efficiently and can drive sundaras at good volume levels,I'm planning on getting the topping a90 discrete.i wanted to know how much of a sound improvement should I be expecting from topping a90's over ifi hip dac paired with sundara?
Your headphone should always be the most expensive item in your setup. You would get more value out of an Ananda with your existing amp then buying an A90
@@EnduringEagle JDS Labs customer support is second to none. Element series might seem underpowered compared to some topping offerings but it has no problem driving any headphones I've tried.
I just got fiio k3 for portable with smartphone/tablet $500 beyerdynamic studio closed head headphones or laptop and also fiio k5 pro for desktop. I also got mixers, behringer 404hd for workstation tower pcand focusrite 18i8 3rd gen for laptop setup audio interfaces. You don't need dac amp...just audio interface...xlr trs trrs you get best sound also midi rca as options. I just got these dac amps for playback vs audio interface for edit. I was also look at schiit but they have durable issues in long run? These are fancy very expensive dac amps you don't need. There are better options at price point.
My favorite combo unit is the RME ADI-2 DAC FS it's a pretty good combo unit for the price, and it's also a tweakers dream box (which I personally enjoy). But if you don't care about having excessive sound tweaking options, there are likely better options available.
@@SzymonSaysStuff look for my post in this topic, I go over the easily accessed controls there, all control options can be accessed by manipulating buttons directly on the unit itself, Z Reviews has a rather lengthy portion of his video on this amplifier which goes over all the settings and how to access them.
