About time! Moi Matti, I just bought a GX9 couple of months ago and yours is the first channel whith that specific content I was loooking for, kiitos for sharing your wisdom and for letting us knowing more things and tips for improving our captures and enjoying this beautiful passion :) Greetings from Spain.
Thank you very much ... I didn't know you could do that. I've definitly started looking at my camera settings and play with it. I've always wanted to shoot in black and withe. I found my sweet spot with your help and created 3 nice different looks in my GX80.
Thanks for this‼️After a twenty five year hiatus, I want get back to shooting b&w. In that previous life I almost exclusive shot TriX 400 on a Pentax MG. I now, thanks also to yourself, have bought a Lumix G3 body and am using all my Pentax K lenses with an adapter. Yes it’s a learning curve but so is life! After the relative simplicity of the MG I never did take to pure DSLR but now this dig/vintage thing works for me…
Last few months I’ve become a lover of black and white after ignoring it for so many years. I do hate post processing so I’ve pretty much stopped RAW and found the jpg pretty much perfect when you play with the camera settings. That said when I’m out shooting there a situations that should be color and black and white. So it’s just easier to have presets ready when I’m doing my editing to pick.
Very nice monochrome pix! Thanks for the custom settings, I will try to adapt them to my OM-D EM10ii. I keep hearing good things about Lumix’s new L Monochrome D style.
I want to thank you for the very excellent black and white settings for the first results (more contrasty). I have applied them as best I could to my GX7 monochrome images and I really like the results. The only digital camera I had in the past which had great out of the camera monochrome settings was the Panasonic LX3 which I sold long ago. I think it was called "Dynamic BW"...and your settings most resembled what I remember from those settings.
Matti thank you for this video. I love the L monochrome and L monochrome D as my base for B&W jpegs. They are very contrasty crush the blacks. These are my favorite SOOC B&W settings. Mask On Nurse Marty (Ret)
The main advantage of shooting in monochrome is that it makes it much easier to visualize how the final print could look. Mirrorless a game-changing in this regard--so much better than making a guess (no matter how educated) with an optical viewfinder! I agree with your early statement that shooting RAW is the best way to go. That said, I do have a couple of custom modes on my G9 for L Monochrome D with some modifications (somewhat similar to yours) that give me a good idea of how at least one possible image may look, but I often end up deviating from my previsualized image, so being stuck with a JPG isn't ideal (as is the case using colored glass filters with digital--you're committed to B&W when color may work better for the image). Also, there's no advantage to making the B&W conversion in-camera, which is what you're doing with JPGs. I shoot RAW +JPG but use the JPG as a "large reference thumbnail" and process/print the RAW (Silver Efex Pro is the best!).
This is really brilliant--so glad I came across this. I have been shooting B&W with my GX8s as a back up to my G9,, using the 25mm 1.4 and the 15MM 1.7-- sharpness has been great, but the ..depth (for lack of a better word) ....has not quite been there. I will start playing with this as my New Years photo project. I have been lamenting not being able to drop Leica monochrome cash just for a B&W rig,, This might just get me there. Best of the New Year to you and can't wait for all your new videos to come.
Thanks for this presentation, Matti. Supported by excellent B&W photography too. Most inspiring! Oh and, I wonder if without your videos I would have bought the GX9, after so many years of Olympus only.
Thanks for the tip! I didn't know you could do that. I'll play around with the settings to find which one works best for me. Awesome images, by the way!
@@mattisulanto in fact, some of the most popular videos for Fujifilm cameras are the 'film simulation recipes'. Somebody should make a video with 'recipes' for Lumix. You've already shown they can be done (hint hint). I'm going out today to try your first one from this video.
Thank you for this, it was really helpful. I am in the process of buying a Lumix camera that I can shoot primarily monochrome, what do you recommend for a starter? Thank you.
Thank you Matti, that inspires me! B&W, your settings, does work so well with a couple of excellent shots shown @ 3:13 and 3:18 - graphic simplicity enhanced by your high contrast. Very good examples of when to go mono.
Thanks you for this. I am following along with my FZ1000m2 while I consider a G9. I also have a Fuji X100f that has the Acros mode that I have fallen in love with. I assumed I would go with a Fuji body and lens system, but have found that I prefer the smaller size of the 4/3 gear. I’m leaning towards Panasonic at the moment. I don’t feel I am too late to the game either.
Thanks for the custom B&W settings!!! Just dialed them into my GX9 though I don't a have two custom settings on my top dial which would be convenient. My question is in which scenario would you use one over the other? Also do you have any other videos on custom settings you like or use for Lumix cameras?
Thanks for the Video. I use a tweaked version of L.monoD a lot on my G9, I find it can produce great monochrome shots, especially with the 42.5/1.2 Leica lens.
Thanks for the great tips. I don't shoot B&W normally but do that in post when needed. I'll have to try out your settings though. Nice website, good to see your photos.
Highlight/shadow is a great setting if you want pictures out of the camera as jpeg. It is like using curves in the post. (..or selecting filters and papers in the wet lab) After getting less serious in the hobby I like highlight/shadow to get better jpegs out of the camera. I tend to shoot raw+jpeg and tweak only the rare "really good photos" I want to eg. print. Seeing it digital in good enough condition is enough to me now. I used to process every photo in post before but I just don't have the time any more.
I'm not a brand ambassador any more and I don't own the FZ300, so I'm afraid I can't help you. However, if you shoot in color you should see colors in the VF too.
@@mattisulanto Thanks for the quick feedback. I found the solution to the problem: a customization of the settings was active, the monochrome display in live view. Ciao
New to your channel, just upgraded from LX100 to M2, enjoying all the Lumix related videos, but I can't find anywhere how to set up cusom settings on the LX100 ii, any chance you could do one.
Thanks. I'm afraid I can't do that video, because I'm not using the LX100II any more. It has nothing to with the camera itself, it's a great camera, but unfortunately I had to let it go. What kind of custom settings you had in mind?
Thank you Matti. I enjoy your videos. Could you please do a video on using Olympus lenses on Panasonic G9? And if there is any disadvantage in using non native m43 lenses with G9? Thank you
Speaking of color filters, have you compared a camera setting filter, to a physical screw in lens filter? Before buying a yellow filter, I'd like to know if the difference is noticable.
No, I have not compared, but that would be an interesting topic. Maybe I'll make a comparison. I'm sure there is a difference, but is it significant, is a good question.
Thank you kindly for your videos, very informative. Could I please ask a question in relation with the Panasonic SR1. At the moment I have the Fujifilm GFX50R. I like it very much. I am looking for something that can create greater resolution files, I do have the option for the GFX 100, however that is out of my price range. I am mostly doing still life photography, occasionally shooting street and occasionally family events. But the most important thing is still life photography for me. I have tried stitching photos together, but due to the fact I am working often on the macro scale, parallax and lens distortion is a major problem when switching photos together. I have been considering the Panasonic SR1 for some time, it seems to be good camera in most aspects. I am particularly interested in its high resolution mode, this will save me the problems within stitching macro photos in creation of high resolution still life photography. Would the high resolution mode work or is it a gimmick? And if you could point me to any in depth articles about the camera. Thank you.
Thanks! The high resolution mode is no gimmick, it works. I have a video where I compare the hires mode of the G9 and S1R. Please search my channel. I haven't compared the S1R hires to any native 100Mp camera, but I'd say based on my previous experience, that it's a very good match, but you have to use a good lens. The final hires file is about 190Mp, but the real resolution is closer to 100-120Mp, with a good lens. But there are some limitations, like no flash. I think DPReview has an article about the S1R hires.
@@mattisulanto Thank you for letting me know. I appreciate it very much. There is something about the camera I really like. I am okay with even no flash use, if I can use a low shutter speed. I can use some continuous lighting with longer shutter speeds. Could you recommend a good quality lens for still life to go with camera? Looking for something like true 1 to 1 macro, that will make good use of the high resolution mode.
@@dalhadop Oh yes, I forgot to say the longest shutter speed with hires is 1s. I haven't tried any macro lenses on the S1R and I don't think there are many native macros available, but of course you use almost any lens with an adapter.
@@mattisulanto Right. I didn't think that question through very well. Too many variables. I'm sure the next question I'm going to ask is just as loaded:). When/if you upload a photo to a printing lab do you always ask for test prints or do you have a feel for how much you might need to up the contrast or exposure to get a reasonable result? I guess I could always bracket my shots and send three versions out for test prints. Thanks again!
@@BradyMcG If I'm using the service the first time, I will upload test photos and see how they come out. For example 2-3 versions of the same photo. However, I usually prefer to use my own printer.
@@BradyMcG you can NEVER, EVER get any kind of “feel” when sending photos to a lab. Never, ever. Not even if you’re the bestest, topdog-est photographer(est) in the world. Because it’s simply impossible. Firstly, your monitor had to be calibrated and so must theirs - and they must be calibrated similarly with the same profile. Secondly, many labs (secretly) alter the images sent “for best results” - whether the one you choose does it it’s something to check. Thirdly, the printer itself must also be calibrated, and be calibrated properly. One would hope that a proper lab does that, but even with calibration it’s another step that can throw off any “feeling”. Finally, the paper and ink used is another variable in the equation. There is simply no way to get a feel beforehand. Test shots are always helpful.
Hi Matti, thank you for your video ! I wonder other than G9, what other smaller body Pana cameras that can adjust Monochrome like what you have done in the video ?
Thanks! It should work on any camera that has the same controls for adjusting the output. It does not work on the GX880, for example, because it does not have the Highlight and Shadow settings.
You can fine tune the S1 the same way. Camera menu > Photo Style > Monochrome. There you'll find Contrast, Highlight, Shadow, Color Tone, Filter Effect, Grain Effect etc. Please, take a look and experiment😀 Manual page 201 can also be useful.
Thanks. Very helpful. I'm turning my Gx85 into a B&W camera :-) Do you have any thoughts about the Lumix L-Monochrome Picture setting? Are there customizations that would make it even better than Monochrome? Or, is one better than the other?
Thanks! You can customize all Photo Styles when you access them in the menu. I would advice you to try maybe adding some contrast or playing with the curve (highlight/shadow) for example and see how it looks. What looks better is a matter of taste and my taste may not be the same as yours😀 Shoot the same subject and try different settings.
hello. I have ZS100 camera. I once photographed on a setting which gave me one image b&w and same image in colour. I can not find that setting anymore. Could you let me know how to set it up that way? thanks Tom
The S1R has the Highlight and Shadow here: Camera Menu > Photo Style > choose your photo style and look at the custom options. By the way here is a video where I'll shoot B&W on the S1R: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kVQdslIBQp0.html
Apropó raw, do you thing post procressing raw is better than photoshop ? I ask because since the G1 I stopped using raw, after not getting much better images than jpgs.
If you mean if post processing RAW is better than post processing jpeg, the answer is yes. However, it doesn't mean your pictures would automatically be better in RAW. You just have more possibilities to fine tune the tonality if you shoot RAW.
Wondering why you wouldn't set capture in either of the custom modes you mentioned to RAW + JPEG? Also, why not drop the NR setting down to -5, especially if you are controlling the ISO setting (rather than using auto ISO?)
Hello Matti, I am a passionate amateur who uses Sony full frame cameras. I take color photos and change them to B&W in Lightroom CC. I bought my first point and shoot Lumix LX100MII camera 5 weeks ago and have been using it mostly for street and family photography.(beautiful colors) when I use the Monochrome D style Raw which is great and transfer them to Lightroom CC for further editing , they come up as color files. Can you please help me solve this issue. Thank you for your Help.
Is it possible to have the Electronic Viewfinder (EVF) display in black and white while still capturing photos in color? This way, you can train yourself to see in black and white and later convert the color photo to monochrome, while still having the option to keep it in color.
@@mattisulanto I was testing what you said and it works, Awesome! Thank you very much. 🙂 Is there any possibility to see the raw image on the back camera display of my Lumix GX85?
@@mattisulanto I'm not sure I understand. If I try to look at the raw image on the camera's screen, doesn't that mean the camera is on, right? Or I'm missing something?
@@afan.pasalic I thought your screen was black because you asked how to see the image. Just hit the play button and you can view the photos you have taken.
hi Matti, I believe G9 can not take black/white in raw. I am kind of disappointed. It can take B/W only if you go to post-processing. I don't want to go post-processing for B/W. So the only option is Jpeg. If a camera can not take B/W in raw means it loses latitude. that affects the image quality. Am I right? thank you so much.
The RAW is the raw data from the sensor and it includes color data as well. You have to convert your RAW to B&W in post like with every other camera, except the Leica Monochrome and some Hasselblads, that have a monochrome sensor.
I have just traded up from a TZ100 to GX80. I had previously set up Custom 1 & 2 for colour & B&W jpeg as per your suggestions. I have set the B & W settings on my GX80 but cannot now find your suggested colour settings. Can you direct me to the correct video? Thank you.
@@mattisulanto I have your preferred B & W settings (Sharpness, NR, etc along with Highlight/Shadow)saved as C2, I seem to remember you gave similar advice for your preferred colour settings, which improved jpeg on my TZ100, but I can't seem to find the video with these settings now. Thanks again.
@@mattisulanto not the one I had in my memory but good tips. I guess, as you say, I'll need to do some experimenting of my own. Thanks again for the help and keep making great content.
Advertising videos I would choose a small prime lens not less than f2 for the low light and for a m43 between 18-25mm. Pancake lenses are Ideal. With a lens like that you could do both portrait and group shots and it's not too large for a crowded place at night.
B&W photography isn't really black or dark artistry! B&W is the cradle of photography, of shadow and especially LIGHT! And L. Monochrome D is an outstanding style you missed to demonstrate and comment. Please, tell us the chilling story of L. Monochrome D that's implemented only with the Lumix G9 and GX9! Please disclose the secret of this "L.". You should know it better. And thank you für your videos.
Thanks for your feedback. I can't put everything in one video. This video is what it is and next time something else. According to the manual the L is "Black-and-white effect with rich gradation and crisp black accents" and the D is "Setting that creates a dynamic monochrome picture with emphasized highlights and shadows". Maybe I should make a video exploring those two settings.
@@mattisulanto another vote :) Maybe when winter comes would be a good time. And please compare the lumix L Mono with OM Grainy Filter II now you're at it. OM JPGs can also be set to diff. gradations and they can do ART bracketing, ie. several filters at once, in camera, if you don't want to DIY the same filters in OM Workspace from RAW. AFAIK grain settings are only for the newer 20mp bodies with L Mono D (G90, GH5, GX9, G9, G100) and the 1" LX10, LX100 and TZ200 I've only got L Mono (no D) on my G80 and it's killing me, Dynamic Mono (and 2-3 others) is available as a filter, not a style, which means JPG only and no flash, among other restrictions.
I'm not a brand ambassador any more and don't have a Lumix in hand to double check if that would be possible. If you have a Lumix camera, please do try and see if that works or not.
sulantoblog Thank you. I am seriously considering the LX100 II to buy. If it had an articulated screen and a mic input it would be a no brainer, and a much better vlog option than the G100. So I am getting the Sony ZV1 for vlog, but the LX100 II as second camera primarily because of macro, focus stacking, 4K Photo, exceptional black and white, and stop motion. As an animator, having an easy stop motion onion skin feature is huge. I also love that it has a 43mm filter thread which is so much better than having to use a stick-on one for the Sony and the LX10. I would choose the LX10 because of the tilting screen, except that the Sony already has a 1 inch sensor, and the LX100 II brings to the table better depth of field, low light, and dynamic range with the larger MFT sensor to add creative options that the Sony does not have. With its brilliant AF, the product mode, articulated screen, mic input, and slow motion, the Sony is also nicely complementary to the LX100 II, so I think the pair will work well together as small camera friends, and the GoPro can provide the wider angles and hyperlapse as needed. I know that Panasonic is not as fashionable as Sony, and they are idiots for refusing to introduce phase detect AF, but the features they build into cameras are way ahead of any other brand. Of course I do have good feelings for MFT, because my first mirrorless camera was the GH1. The fist time I used the GH1 I knew this was the future and primarily because of the EVF, and being able to see black and white as I composed the photo. I thought that was revolutionary, and still do, as someone who likes a lot of black and white, and 4K photo, and onion skinning continue to push the creative possibilities. I have always loved your Lumix reviews. I like the way you think about cameras, and the experience of using them, and the way you communicate that.
They should be, but since I'm traveling and don't have a GX9 in hand I can't confirm that. If you own a GX9 it's very easy to try and see for yourself.
I'm not sure what a full tutorial means, but I'm sure I'll have more LX100 tips coming. I already have my five favorite settings video, have you seen that? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wmJh3xhKhcU.html
On subject of taking b&w photos I just wonder why on earth would one do it anymore? In film era taking b&w photos was often a choice made from a financial point of view, at least for hobbyists. B&w film was relatively cheap and easy to process by yourself whereas colour diapositives were always a substantially more expensive choice for taking photos on those days. And today, taking photos (jpg) in b&w setting discards the colour information and if one shoots RAW, b&w effect can be applied afterwards. I find it hard to find any rational justification for shooting in b&w even if the desired end result is a b&w photo.
Good question and in the video I gave some answers. Just to have fun, experiment and no need for post processing. To learn to make decisions while shooting and to learn to think in gray scale. But of course RAW is flexible and generally the best choice.
@@mattisulanto its not, i am new to MFT former canon / fuji but i switched to the GX9 hoping before i received it to get the PEN-F now that i haven'ti'm not sure if i made the right / wrong decision so i was asking your thoughts being you are experienced sir. i apologize if you felt it was a game.
@@patrickcazer I can tell you what I like, but it might not be what you like. I think the only real way to find out, if a camera is the right for you, is to use that camera. My advice is, buy the camera you want and use it for at least six months, use it a lot. If you still don't like it, buy something else.
I do all kinds of things and this is the best out of camera. I think I explain this in the video. Of course RAW is better and more flexible and if you watch my other videos you'll see that I use RAW a lot. Sometimes it's just fun to experiment.
1:15 having said that "RAW offers better straight out of camera possibilities" and "jpeg ...there's no time for corrections" why doesn't Panasonic offer there amazing black and white modes in jpeg and RAW simultaneously? My GX8 can only do double jpegs (intelligent auto jpeg and monochrome jpeg)...
You can shoot b&w RAW (or jpeg+RAW) and use for example my settings, but the problem is that your RAW developer doesn't understand the settings. The RAW developer will show the embedded jpeg at import, but as soon as you enter the develop mode you'll see the "unprocessed" picture. You should make a b&w preset that you apply at import to your RAW photos and that would work.
Thanks for sharing your opinion. Peter was an awesome photographer and I'm pretty sure he also had some sense of humor and might have used my shirt as a joke. There are too many amateurs who take photography way too seriously😀
