My hammer crimper is mounted to a railroad tie. Screwed down like it's supposed to be. And I use a 3-5 lb. Sledge hammer like temco suggests. It's done awesome for many many 1/0 amplifier power wires. I use the TemCo brand. It's the best one. It crimps in the top and bottom simultaneously and has a 5 year no questions asked warranty. I've never had a loose crimp or one that failed. I like it alot. It can do up to 4/0 cables and as small as 8ga I believe. Great tool.
@Karl with a K simply squeezing a lug and the cold weld that the crimper produce are very different. When you have your 1st fire from loose or failed connections (especially in car audio) you will also see the difference! Knowledge comes from experience, it sounds like you lack both. To spend all that money on wire and whatever equipment and then to cheap out on the connection doesn't make sence. Iv been a welder for 25 years And a car audio enthusiast for about the same. The $20 I spent for my crimper was well worth it and I'll have it forever.
@Karl with a K lol, ok bro. Do you! The other purpose of a crimp is to be gas tight. Not allowing water or oxygen into the metal where it can corrode it. Make me a video of you hanging from your hammer crimped battery cables. I'm sure many people here would also like to see it, lol. Your not understanding I've used a hammer in a pinch but I would soldier it after. I'd still replace it immediately because soldier will eventually break from flexing but any hammer crimp I've ever seen or done would fall off with about 3lbs of pull on it. And it's just bad practice. Could anyone here imagine getting an install done and finding your power cables hammered to a lug?! We would be in court. If it fall off from the hammer crimp it would just corrode in a year. This has to be one of the stupidest arguments I've ever entertained. I refuse to waste another second on stupidity. I'll help anyone that needs it but stupidity can't be helped. You voted for Brandon didnt you? Lol I'm done bro. Good luck with your "business "🤣 stop giving your own comments a thumbs up bro! I know no one is stupid enough to thumbs up that nonsense here! Come on!
Yes, I was laughing when I saw him striking with a silly claw hammer. I'm always annoyed seeing people use a claw hammer for anything other than carpenter work....LOL..no offense, nice video but yes on a solid steel table, vice etc with proper shop hammer. I would still rather use the other types of crimpers. I have a few different ones. I'm no expert but have over 30 yrs experience in the automotive business as well as about all types of repairs, fabrication, machining, etc, always learning. plenty of ways to skin a cat here.
I went with the small hydronic since its not something I will be using all the time and takes up less space in the tool boxes. FYI, I paid $44 and it came with gloves, same wire cutters, replacement seals if needed, some ten 1/0AWG lugs and heat shrink. The dies are for 12AWG, 10AWG, 8AWG, 6AWG, 4AWG, 2AWG, 1/0AWG, 2/0AWG, 1/8. Of course if I did this every day then yea I usually go with a name brand or what ever makes my day more productive and easier. Maybe even one of the electric ones, but I only use this every few months. Thanks for the review.
I just picked up the TH0005. Did my first test crimp and got a set of wings. Read the owners manual and it said I was over crimping. They were right. Did my next one with less pressure and it came out perfect. Great tool without a doubt.
Temco will produce a hex crimp which is more ideal than the flared out crimp on the Harbor Freight. The Temco also has a spring in the handle which makes for a less frustrating crimp.
I hope you don't take this the wrong way but you must hit the plunger on the hammer lug crimper 2-3 time not once, (use a 3-5 Lbs. sledge hammer), , you definitely have more than one shot to get a proper tight crimp. thank you for reading my comment, regards.
That's fine, thanks for the advice. From what I can tell the sacred cows of power systems are hammer crimpers and voltage sensing relays. If I insult them then I hear about it. For future trainings I will get a bigger hammer and present the hammer crimpers as a viable option, in case people don't want to buy the hydraulic ones. The hydraulics are great for me, but I understand that not everyone wants to buy them or agrees they are the best. Thanks for commenting and checking out my channel.
Hey Susie (Opss.... I meant Ross) you need a much larger hammer and then go back and try hitting it again like you have a set🤣 Sorry for being a smart a$$ but I couldn't resist. I have used one of the very same hammer crimpers for years and they actually work as well or better than some of the hydraulic units I've tried. If you doubt this? Use a 3 or 4 lb hammer and then cut it open after you are finished. You will find no airspace and the cross section will look like a solid cast copper unit. Also, hitting it more than once is not an issue as long as the point of the anvil is located at the same spot. Don't turn it over and hit it again thinking it will work better. This process will cause the ring connector to split around the wire portion if exposed to repeated heating from high amperage flow over time. This allows moisture inside the terminal and corrosion to ruin the joint. I'll go away now.......
Well I didn't appreciate being called Susie but you make some good points. If I ever put down the hydraulic crimpers I'll get a bigger hammer and do some tests. A lot of my advice in this video was from previous experience where I made ok crimps with the hammer crimper, but just preferred the hydraulic units.
The hammer crimped works fairly well if you use the right hammer. You need at least a 2 lb maul and 3 lb is better. Using a nail hammer is not even close to adequate.
Great presentation on tools & technique. One thing that's missing from the hydro crimpers - where the hammer crimp actually beats them - is with that pre-load spring. Seems like it would be easy to implement on those premium tools, and you don't need three hands to set up the crimp. Dunno
Thanks Riley, I see what you mean about the spring. What I typically do is close the jaws lightly down on the lug terminal until they grab it, then all I have to do is insert and orient the cable before continuing the crimp.
Thats a great tip! I’ve struggled with crimping in awkward spaces, resorting to masking taping the lugs to the cable. You just saved me one whole step!
First off, you need a heavier hammer than a claw hammer to do the hammer crimper justice (Estwing 2# 'Sure Strike' drilling/crack hammer for example). Second, the hammer crimper works best with at least 2 hits, the first to collapse the lug and the second to compress it. Multiple hits after the lug collapses won't hurt the crimper or the lug.
I strongly recommend an indent crimper for those of us who source our lugs from one place, our cable from another, and the crimper from a third (most of us). The hex-type crimpers are very sensitive to size mismatch. If you are making crimps commercially, you will make sure to have all the compatible pieces together and get a good crimp. Fot the rest of us, the crimps the produced by a hex-type crimper may look pretty, but the are most likely poor connections electrically. TEMCo has a good video on this. In fact, many (most) of the hex-type crimpers are sized for metric-sized cable, which adds another error. I did try the hammer indent crimper, but I found it frustrating and returned it. TEMCo and others have both hydraulic and long handle indent crimpers. I have their hydraulic indent crimper and am very happy with it.
@@xXAussieSkillzXx It's not surprising. A tool with dies is often designed to work with a narrow range of work product. What is frustrating is that the US continues to perpetuate size standards which are different from the rest of the world.
@@BobCollins42 You are absolutely right, most people forget that there is such a thing as regulations, one should take a look at how it is done at the shipyards for example, most people just mess around and think it's okay.
@@karlwithak.- As mentioned in another reply to @knobwithaK (see @davidbourgeois856's post) I was a metrology tech in a past life long ago. We use to test and calibrate ground resistance testers which electricians used to certify the earth ground connections for residential and commercial buildings to insure the safe use of electrical energy within the structure. Our shop bench ohmmeter standard (19" rack mountable) in those days was some 7 or 7 1/2 digits (digi multimeters typically have 4) which measured well into the microohms. I be willing to bet a pizza and a six-pack that @LTVoyager's crimps would test out many, many times less in the crimp resistance (Kelvin/4 wire resistance test terminal to wire) than your neanderthalian methods. Hammering on electrical tape wrapped connectors is a sure fire way to break down its insulation integrity. @mrtschulias5250's statement is entirely true. He may not have measured the impedance of connections but I have. So pretty much you are assembling time delay ignition sources. 🔌🎆🔥🚒👨🏻🚒🚑⛑🏥🩻
If you live in a tiny rural town, hours away from harbor freight, there is one more option: Vise Grips makes a stripped nut remover. It will crimp auto battery starter cables, if you have hands like hams. Any NAPA store.
This is one of my most controversial videos because I said I no longer use hammer crimpers and it ruffled a lot of feathers. I just like the hydraulics better. But I will get a bigger hammer if I ever try again. Thanks for your suggestion.
@@rosslukemanit's not just the hammer. Think of how a anvil works when forging metal, it needs to be solid to transfer the energy. You can't be hitting it on a table. It needs to be concrete ground as least.
Why do you think you can only hit the hammer crimper once? I've always hit it enough times to achieve a proper crimp. If you work on a solid surface, you won't have any bounce and the ring terminal will stay in the same position.
This is such a low effort on the hammer crimper. Its not a "one shot deal", you use an actual *professional* hammer (I use a 32 or 48 dead blow ball peen), and you can strike it as many times as you want. Its the best value to performance proposition.
Hydraulic one does not cost that much more and it has multiple dies. It is a no brainer that is the one to buy. I bought the level type that has about 5 die heads. I am going to buy the hydraulic one just that i like the crimping is way nicer and uniform with the hydraulic version. WAY way cheaper to make one than to buy those expensive lugs that they sell. Invest in the tool and you can use many spare copper tube or aluminum (those are what i use) to make the lugs that cost cent NOT dollar. If you are serous about solar energy this tool is a must have.
I went to download your cheat sheet several times and never got it.... I'd really like to get my van conversion started. I bought the van several months ago and still it sits!
If we could all use one measurement system. I’m coming at it from the other angle where square mm makes sense to me and get confused by the AWG system. Having to use one size smaller dies on multi-strand to get a good, solid crimp, I use 25mm dies on 35mm cables and get a real good solid crimp.
Feels bad for the hammer crimper it looks like s hit and treated like s hit but when used in concrete with a good hammer it does the job. But because it looks "primitive" hence why its bad.
In a properly crimped cable lug, the cut open cross section looks like a solid copper hunk with a faint pattern showing the *faint* outline of the original lug and the many strands compressed together. In fact the appearance is similar to the pattern in blades on "Forged in Fire" type sword/knife fabrcating. There is no improving the conductivity of by adding in another element in this case.
Another issue with solder is it often wicks up under the insulation some distance above the crimp and reduces the flexibility in that area. Sometimes the insulation will crack as a result.
Why doesn't Temco put a flat foot on this tool (like they have on their indent lug crimping tool) so you don't have to fight it rolling on the surface?
for a diy, you would prob only need a handful of large gauge cables, so maybe get a local shop to fabricate them for you, and do the smaller ones yourself
I think the hammer crimper is too expensive for what you get. I have one simular to the 5 ton crimper and it does everything I ask of it. but if I crimped 0/4 or other huge crimps i would get the bigger one.
6 gauge is too small for a hammer crimper I also have the terminal facing the other way just looks better having the crimp on the back side of the terminal. And again anything 6 gauge and under I use a hand ratchet crimper!
