@@WHATDATTOOLDO Yup I like mine, but I have grown tired of the locking knob on bottom. It always seems to loosen up unless I put pliers to it. Think I might upgrade to digital torque wrench or either a split beam or a wrench with thumb locking ring.
I have a bunch of Snap-On torque wrenches at work and one single Quinn. Went to my school one day (University of Northwestern Ohio) and threw on one of the school’s Snap-On torque wrench’s and my Quinn on a torque tester and my Quinn was only .1 ftlbs off of the Snap-On. I was thoroughly impressed by its accuracy.
Both the Quinn and the Kobalt are made by Eclatorq in Taiwan. I think the Craftsman might be as well but I'm not absolutely sure. Eclatorq makes all of Stanley Black and Decker's digital torque tools including MAC, USAG, and Proto. The higher end Eclatorq models as used by SBD use a Christmas tree light system that is very similar to a drag racing Christmas tree that goes up as you approach desired the pre-set torque or angle.
Craftsmen is Stanley now so that is prolly the case. I worked as a contractor for Dormakaba which is now Stanley security solutions in Fishers Indiana, which I remember hearing they acquired the Craftsman brand once Sears folded. Which is now why they are sold everywhere.
Based on performance and functionality, the Quinn is the clear choice. It was right with the Sata in the 'before' testing accuracy and noticeably better in the 'after' accuracy testing. In this day and age of angle torque on rod bolts, the Sata's lack of angle functionality is inexcusable. PS: it's a nit, but your After 1000 table has a typo in the 50 ft-lb Quinn percentage. it should be .72 percent, not 72 percent.
I'm imagining what it would sound like to be working in a large shop with a number of mechanics using digital electronic torque wrenches like this all day long 😵💫
The Quinn hand tools are some of the best I used, or seen lately. I worn though quite a few impact sockets over the years but the Quinn held up the best. I went with the Craftsman torque wrench on 1/2 and 3/8 which is good but would have bought the Quinn if was in stock at my local harbor freight but had to do a engine swap and needed a torque wrench and Craftsman was in stock and is pretty accurate and got the job done.
I haven't used Quinn hand tools yet, but other viewers seem to like them as well. Im still using my Pittsburg impact sockets... Yeah the Crasftman is good, just a little more money compared to the Quinn.
Fun video. I own a Kobalt digital, and have used a Snap-On digital also. It's nice to have the mechanical vibration on the Snap-On, if you're using the tool professionally that might help jobs go more quickly. I'm a DIYer so it's not really a problem.
Wow! Kinda irritated. Thought surely the gearwrench would at least be on par. Had one coming in the mail, I just canceled it and am heading to harbor freight. Thank you 🤘
I bought an Icon ½" drive electronic torque wrench that I really like; the build quality is excellent and the price was about ¼(with a 20% discount) that of a similar Snap On wrench. I just bought a Quinn ⅜" drive electronic torque wrench for about $132, again with a 20% discount from Harbor Freight. While not quite being at the quality level of the Icon, I still think it is a good wrench at a good value and will serve my needs as a non-professional mechanic very well.
Thanks! Yeah I found it odd the Craftsman didn't have that button. It came in handy on the other two when I could click right back to the 50, 150, 250 after the 1000 cycles.
Your video showed up in my feed today. Glad it did! Thumbs and subs. Have you considered testing out the torque adapter heads that allow you to use any socket wrench as a torque wrench? Edit: I should have looked through your video library before posting.... I see you have covered the torque adapters. I'm off to go watch those videos right now.
Excellent review. Btw, I believe it's accepted that torque wrenches should not be used for measurements in the outer 10% of their range. Ie: 50-250 means 55-200.
Yeah the books say 20-100% of full scale so 50-250. Its interesting on how some are marketed 12.5-250, when anything under 50 is out of the claimed accuracy.
I have both 3/8 and 1/2 inch kobalts. Well, now i know they should be good to go lol. I was thinking of selling these to try to get a used Snap-On TQ Wrench, but they are still $$$. I thought about getting that Icon digital one you reviewed. Is there even a reason to now? I kinda like the Christmas tree lights VS what I have weigh the beeping. I have been switching my kobalt ratchets to SO ones one at a time. Great channel!!!
That I don’t, personally I prefer mechanical wrench bc digital wrench’s allow for human error because u need to stop once u get close to the desired torque. Torquing bolts has a ton of variables. Normally a chart or specs are provided.
Lol yep, I prefer a split beam as well but everyone wants digital for some reason. The only time digital is handy is for torque angle on head bolts to me.
Excellent video on the digital torque wrench comparisons. I’m in between the Kobalt or ICON digital. What I’m interested in knowing is who makes the ICON digital and do the internal electronics compare to others? Long term durability is just as important as maintaining its accuracy. Supposedly from my own research, the Kobalt is made by a reputable company called Eclatorq though I cannot confirm this. I also question the lifetime guaranteed warranty on the ICON digital outside of the yearly calibration.
I would go with the ICON, it has been a good wrench. I don't exactly know who is making them but its the same torque wrench Cornwell has been selling. To my knowledge the warranty is only the components not the calibration, so it would be costly to get recalibrated but that would be the same for Kobalt. It will be interesting to see how the warranty plays out.
@@Tools-Tested Thank you for the reply. I have both ICON 1/2” & 3/8” split-beam torque wrenches and use them daily as an entry-level tech for a dealer in which I find them to be of good quality. I’m considering getting either the SNAP-ON split-beam or ICON digital specifically for Subaru cylinder head-bolts and TTY fasteners. Out of the three different styles of torque wrenches (wind-up click, split-beam click and digital) I prefer the spilt-beam design most. Do you find there to be a noteworthy degree of difference in accuracy between a digital vs split-beam for critical internal engine bolts such as cylinder and complete engine tear-down? I don’t mind using a metal (not plastic) torque angle gauge so the ability to do angle on a digital is nice but not an absolute requirement for me. Being that I also work for a dealer, I’m leaning towards getting the Snap-on split-beam. New sub
Great info on that video! I’m looking to buy a digital torque wrench right now and I’m debating between the gear wrench 85196 and Sata ST96535, any recommendations between the 2?
If you don't need one right away I would think we see an Icon 3/8 one soon, the 1/2 icon looks the same as the Cornwell. Cornwell has it in 1/2 3/8 and 1/4 for a lot more money... If you need it right now I would probably go with the Quinn
@@Tools-TestedHopefully the 1/2in Icon will get me by with my upcoming project. From what I saw in your review of the Snap On vs Icon digital 1/2in I'm completely sold on the Icon. Was really hoping to get a 3/8 matching one to go along with the 1/2 but guess I'll be waiting. Hard to believe that they haven't released the 3/8 being it's the most common size along with the 1/2.
@@mtman84 Yeah you would think they would want to release one soon. It was definitely shocking how well the Icon did vs the snap on. And I actually found the Icon easier to use. Definitely not worth the extra money at all.
I like the review. I just bought the gearwrench with angle. I have a question. During your testing, there was an accending beep noise as you approach the target. Was that on your tester? Torquing lug nuts for example, this would be very helpful when you are not in a position to eyeball your wrench. Do any angle torque wrenches offer this?
Thanks!, yeah its the tester making that noise wish I could mute it. I know the Icon, gearwrench E spec and Snap on all have side lights which make it easier when torquing from the side and all do angle. Icon is expensive compared to the ones in this video but a lot cheaper then the Snap on or E spec.
Thanks for making these vids , which of these 2 would you pick , SATA 1/2 digital 25-250lbs with angle ST96535. Or TEKTON 1/2 split beam 40-250 TRQ62203AMZ. they are the same price in my country? Thanks
No problem, my opinion I would buy the split beam. That’s what I grab 9/10 from the tool box, digital is cool but it’s slow, requires batteries and harder to torque properly with IMO.
GearWrench is not doing that great, but whether the claim of 2% is met or not (after 1000 uses) depends on whether they provide the accuracy based on full scale or from set value. A 2 % of full scale would be 2% of 250 ft/lbs (given at 50-250 ft/lbs torque wrench), This would mean +/- 5 ft/lbs across the board and would also apply in the lower region. For the 50 ft/lbs setting it will be +/- 5 ft/lbs or a whole 10% of the set value, and be within the specification of 2% full scale! A lot of people miss this fact when getting toque wrenches and a lot of manufacturers do not provide the information about the accuracy being given of the full scale or of the scale/set value.
Yep most digital torque wrench you won't know until reading the OM exactly what the accuracy really is. I agree most probably miss the fact and assume if it goes down to say 10 ft lbs its +-2% when in most cases its more like 6%.
@@Rafael-tu8dctorque angle means rotating by tightening it past the first time. An example would be they tell you to torque a bolt in two steps, let's just use an example of first pass 40 lb ft second pass an additional 90 degrees. After you've tightened it to 40 you'll set the torque angle to 90 degrees and the torque wrench will count up in degrees as you approach 90, some wrenches will tell you in ft lbs then what the actual torque was after thar second step
Yeah defiantly with GW, there have been a few viewers that commented their GW was out of Cal new. You would think being the name GW they would care about quality but I guess the old GW as it used to be is gone.
That was a great video, thanks very much. Let me ask you a question. I want to buy a wrench primarily to tighten my lug nuts. The specs says 94 ft.lbs. Is it ok to by a wrench that max is 100-110 pounds or do I need to be in the 150 ft. lbs range? What about for lower torquing. Would I be better off with the lower max settings or does it not matter.
No problem, It's better to be near the Max. That's were the toque wrench is the most accurate typically. Normally you want to stay away from going below the lower 20% of max scale. So if the max was 100 your accuracy isn't going to be as good below 20fl-lbs even if the torque has the scale for it.
You should always test at minimum 3 of the same wrenches bought from different stores. It can always happen that a normally bad wrench has better copies among them. Also one should have tested a quality torque wrench like Stahlwille oder Hazet as comparison.
I'm not considering any torque wrench with less than 72 teeth. If teeth are in the lower range, I would have to take off another underbody plastic panel with many many fasteners to do a transmission fluid change on the wife's RDX. With more teeth, smaller minimum click angle, I can leave that panel on and save a big part of the labor.
I need a 1/2 drive torque wrench and have had my eye on the icon split beam but my boss at my shop says don’t get anything other than Tool truck stuff for torquing tools. Should I follow his advice or is the icon torque wrench good for shop use
I would get the icon split beam, both the 3/8 and 1/2 tested well on my Snap On tester. Back in the day I would agree with your boss, but these SB’s seem to be good quality.
When torquing lug nuts on my car(torque spec is 80ft lbs for my wheels ). My Milwaukee impact wrench can set the lug nuts to 35ft lbs, after the wheel is floor do I subtract 35 ft lbs from 80 lbs(which equals 45 lbs) and input 45 ft lbs on my torque wrench or do I input 80 ft lbs? I'm not very knowledgeable in how to torque but I want to learn how to.
So the E-spec Gearwrench is more accurate, has leds indication on the sides and vibration. The E-spec also does angle were this one doesn't. I will be testing the model in between these two (120xp with angle)
If your already investing enough money into making a torque wrench that is digital. Why in the world would you not include torque angle capability? I would never consider paying for one without it.
I have the Quinn, the only thing that really sucks about it is I keep hitting the off button while trying to grip it for degrees , super annoying design.
Yeah I'm not a fan of this GW model or the E-spec, I thought the E-spec was good until the screen failed. Came back from warranty and failed again 4 months later, $600 paper weight....
So I hear a lot of use of the term foot-pound. In my ears this sounds very strange, as it's incorrect, it's not a measurement of torque. The correct term is pound-foot, just like it is Newton-meter, and not 'meter-Newton'. But I even see it in the menu of the Quinn torque wrench: ft.lbs. The other design has it correct though.
Alrighty then, i watched this film after I watched your budget, click-type torque wrench comparo test. I commented about having the Evercraft version from NAPA. I reckon I will need to flip a coin between the Quinn and Kobalt, if the coin lands on its edge I don't know what to do. Maybe just get the Kobalt if an extendable warranty ain't available on the Quinn. I can't imagine the Quinn being available with only a 90 warranty, though.
Yeah both are about identical other than warranty, im sure you can probably extend it at hf over the standard 90 days for extra money. Every few months it seems they have it on sale. If your not doing anything with angle I would defiantly check out the Icon split beam torque wrench. I actually prefer that over a digital torque wrench.
@@Tools-Tested I watched the comparison film you made of the ICON and Snap-on split-beam torque wrench, then I watched the update film you made on the Tekton version. Me personally I would go with the Tekton version over the ICON. Too much to go into on why for my preference.
I purchased the quinn for the sole reason that it can measure in degree angles, needed it for tightening cam phaser bolts on a ford f150...however i find that when putting a small amount of tension on the bolt to make sure it is gripping properly before you start really pulling the wrench measures some degrees when you havent turned the bolt at all? I was trying to turn the bolts 180° and because i couldnt do a full turn all at once i had to ratchet it a few times and found that before i could make the actual 180° turn (marked it with white nail polish before for extra caution) the wrench was showing over 350° because it would add for egery small movement i would make that wasnt even turning the bolt. Its good for one full spin but a bunch if small turns that extra it adds can spell disaster for internal torque to yeild bolts! Im returning it tomorrow for this reason.
@@Tools-Tested that is what I was thinking, they would have made it in a way that the tool would "know" when actual turning was taking place. Maybe I just had a defective one afterall
Its honestly about comparable to the other split beams, at one time they did claim 2.5% accuracy but they have sense changed that to 4% Please see ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ew2s_zoUejw.html
@@Tools-Tested what I like about the Tekton is that they offer 1/2” and 2/8 drive. The reviews seem to be good, although they could be fake, and I know some people who say Tekton makes good tools.
How about doing something like this with Amazon Digital torque wrenches? They seem to be up to 50% cheaper and I have a feeling many might be made from the same companies that built these.
So it really depends on the type of wrench, but the most common none digital are micrometer style which click when a desired torque is meant. Same for a split beam style but internally its very different, Precision has a very good video on it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qB5L10lLVFo.html
Interesting, I remember the compartments on Craftsman Kobalt and Quinn a little difficult to lock. But once locked it stayed lock, maybe a defective unit?
I am always hearing that click torque wrenches are accurate to 80% of their stated range. That if your taking torque measurements at the upper or lower ends of the range its not as accurate. Do these Digital Torque Wrenches suffer from the same thing? Would a Digital Torque Adapter work just as good versus a Digital Torque Wrench? Do they also suffer from this torque range inaccuracy?
It really varies by brand but most follow that same rule, the lower 20% is normally +-6% vs the rest of the range being at +-2%. The adapters work just as good as the wrenches, really just depends on if you have the room to use the adapter vs a thin profile wrench.
I would look at Sunex click style, the small Sunex toque wrenches are very different then the larger ones. Easy way to tell is the black handle and price. I have a 1/4 drive, nice quality and accurate, I use it to toque diesel injector wire nuts.
Great review. Is the Gearwrench the same thing as the SATA or just different electronics and better quality control/certification with the SATA? I have the Gearwrench and use it mostly in the 80-150 lb. range where it seems to do okay in your test, and my other torque wrench matches it pretty close. Would you even bother with these mid level wrenches or go to something better?
Its very weird, almost like the load cell is different between the GW and Sata but the interface is the same. As you pointed out the GW is good at 150 and 250 so I don't think its a calibration issue. Just maybe the load cell is not as accurate down at the bottom range. If I was using it weekly, to me the new Icon is the way to go. Defiantly if you can get 20% off. Little bit longer handle and led's on the sides. But for DIY I think these offer a good price point. Im going to do a video hopefully next month explaining which style/price point wrench I would use/buy depending on the situation.
@@Tools-Tested Oh very nice. I was trying to do less of my own work, but with Bidenflation as high as it is, I'm probably going to be back in the garage more. I don't need the best of the best, but hate the idea of using a torque wrench that's inaccurate.
It's normally only used when tightening head bolts on engines. After you torque the bolt, then an angle is applied. In most cases something like 90 degrees, so a quarter turn of the bolt after you already applied the torque spec.
To me I would say icon, I know it’s a lot more. But you get a flex head, longer length handle and leds on each side. Your not always going to be in a position we’re you can see the display so a big selling point to me is those LEDs!
I did the Icon in a earlier video, and have sense sold the Quinn. Both passed are around 2% in accuracy. Though the icon is more expensive, I prefer it bc of the LEDs on the sides, flex head and it’s overall longer.
Really depends on how much you plan on using it and what for. I know the icon is a lot more money but you also get Leds on the side, flex head and higher accuracy. But personally if your not doing anything with torque angle/left hand thread I would buy the Icon split beam.
I have the Gearwrench 120xp digital torque wrench... which is much nicer... the case is also better than the one offered here.. Those are all actually made by the exact same company
Not necessarily just re-branded but also meet different quality standards let’s face it if you want to dial something into 2% takes more time manpower labor than 4%
14:15 HF hasn't had a 20% coupon for months/years now. Although the Quinn does seem to be on sale at the moment of this video. Do digital torque wrenches require calibration, ie. like split beam and micrometer? Which types hold calibration the longest?
They had 20% last weekend, I bought a set of Icon screwdrivers with it. Only thing now is no more adds so the really only way you know is by email and or the HF app. Yeah sadly the digital ones follow the same guidelines and are recommended that they are checked yearly. Some digital ones like Matco will actually make you send it out for calibration after so many cycles (5000 I believe was the number). To me between those 3 types the split beam would be the one to hold the longest because of its design.
As a huge fan of gearwrenchs handtools, I have to say their torque wrenches are junk. Had excellent luck with all of their other stuff but I’ve had to send both my 3/8 and 1/2 back to gearwrench multiple times for warranty work…. Food for thought.
It's normally only used when tightening head bolts on engines. After you torque the bolt, then an angle is applied. In most cases something like 90 degrees, so a quarter turn of the bolt after you already applied the torque spec.
