The Best Historic Wood Window Frame Assembly Goes Together Like This 

I’m gonna remember that the next time I nail some yellow pine…. You’d think I’d know a trick like that by now but apparently I have yet to arrive at a place where there’s nothing left to learn….

@@WoodWindowMakeover maybe because of the guides at the exit of the nail gun or there is a spin momentum given to the ♦️

Maybe. But I think more that it has to do with the chisel shape at the point of the nail. Turning the gun to orient with the grain might cause the nail to better slice through the grain rather than be guided by it. That’s my theory anyway

From my experience it is just the simple angle of the nail gun. If the gun is perpendicular than any tipping of the gun forward or rearward quickly directs the nail towards the face. But being "in line" with the "length" of the wood a tipping forward or rearward still keeps the nail in the wood. In other words it is easier to keep the nail gun aligned side to side as opposed to forward and rearward. Now yellow pine is a difficult wood to nail as those rings are hard and soft as you have probably felt when using the mortising machine. The nail can ride that grain at times no matter what you do. Unless you pre-drill!

That May happen some day

No plans. One day maybe. Usually put my pulleys 6” on center from the head jamb. The parting bead channel is 1-7/16 from the edge, assuming a blind stop attached to it. The slots for the weight pocket door are hidden underneath the parting bead in the parting bead channel and underneath the window stop. The cross cuts for the weight pocket door are usually hidden underneath where the bottom sash goes. Those are the basics

He says it's kiln-dried pine at 3:36.

It’s kiln dried. You can make a sash out of any wood. I don’t know if any easily obtainable wood has an real advantage over any other easily obtainable wood. I’ve made a lot of sash out of KDAT but it’s heavy and tends to warp. I’ve made sash out of cypress but it tends to rot, I made them out of Accoya for a long time but it attracts mold. Right now I’m using a wood called Red Grandis. Don’t have much data on it yet. But I’ve made sash out of a clear yellow pine Home Depot 2x10 before and it is still in use. So it’s hard to say confidently anymore. What I would feel comfortable saying is to use the best wood you can get your hands on at a price you can pay. To me that’s reasonable.

I like a 1-1/2” Wood handled, stiff chisel point myself.

@@WoodWindowMakeover thank you !

15 gauge I think

Thickness and width of casing stock is variable but always 3/4 or better. Just one groove for the parting bead, yes. KDAT pine, yes. Blind stop and window stop added, yes. Parting bead 1/2 x 3/4 usually but I like to make it a little stronger than 3/4, especially in old work. Stool goes on first, before any interior casing

@@WoodWindowMakeover Thank You so much. If the casing is 3/4” how much is the parting bead recessed into the casing? I’m worried about leaving enough wood under the recess/dado…

@@jimbaranski4687 I think you mean the jamb. It recesses in about 1/4” so it can stick out a 1/2

@@WoodWindowMakeover I mean the bead that is between the sashes, and holds the top sash in. Thanks!

@@jimbaranski4687 it recesses in 1/4” and sticks out 1/2”

Here in Tampa I get it from a place called Lumber Specialties. In San Antonio it’s Allen And Allen