I can honestly say this is the best design for a portaband I've seen in a long time! I like this even better than the swag setup since yours allows for quick blade changes and easy saw removal! Very nicely done!
Hi ; I am back I have built my stand .I built much as yours , Then more.. I gave my shelf a cross cut,a guide fence .my shelf has 4 legs, just stands in place on hole of which I drilled thur shelf into the saws cutting brace guides the saw into locking with a nail laying in place (I didn't have your bike part handy).I mounted a easy removeable light...Also a 3 box handy box for switch for light and saw and handy outlet... Petty red paint... I said early that mine would also raise and serve as a blade guard ,Sorry but at this time it will not be added I'll call mine finished. Thanks your video show me to fix it right...Them portable saw needs to remain portable as built but a good stand makes for a upgrade .
As many have said before me - it is the most elegant setup on yt. What I like is the lack of compression on plastic parts often seen in other projects in order to secure the saw upright. Frame is minimalist too. Good. For the size of the saw and the size of the work to be done on it nothing more is needed (other than changing the switch to s more practical and safe form)
This is the best solution yet! The round rod through the handle…. Brilliant brother. I’m going to adapt your design for mounting to the wall with 2 horizontal straps to attach to 2 studs. Thanks for posting this.
Over 2 years old and still the best I've seen on youtube. I just got a Wen Saw and the handle is different (round on the inside , It' D ring shape). It will work great with this design. Thanks for sharing
Nice build.....the things I like about it are: 1. The ease at how you can take the saw off the stand, along with the plate 2. Using only one leg as opposed to the four that most other DIYs did for support 3. The overall design of it Two things I didn’t like was the pin in the handle...I don’t like modifying equipment....plus I can see that plastic handle wearing out over a period of time eventually inducing play. Also, it seems as though there is the possibility for some lateral movement at the bottom of the handle, I probably would have added a couple of supports on the 3x3 shaft around the base of the handle to preclude any possible lateral sway. As for options would have added a channel for a miter gauge along with a switch and receptacle. But all in all your design is very clever/creative and in my opinion one of the best I’ve seen yet.....great job!
I know this is a year old video, but, I like how you made your stand! Plus, I like how you went into depth on how & why you designed it the way you did. I subscribed just from this one video. I like seeing how different people designed their stands & tables for these. I still haven't purchased one though... LOL!
I bought the SWAG portaband table , but never happy with it, on how the locking system works, the saw keeps coming out on the table. With your design and since I already have the table, I think they compliment each other well. Thanks again....
Good one. Nice and simple. You can still access the speed control with no problem. That led light does mess with things when using the saw in odd positions. I just turn it off. I was going to add little tabs near the bottom handle for a little more stability when I run heavier unbalanced pieces through the saw.
64t120r Works great for the thickness of material I’m cutting. If you feel you need a little extra support. Go for it. I think it’s a great starting point for everybody. If they need to tweak it to suit their needs then do it. 👍
I built one few months back.very nice and sturdy. but few days ago i needed to freehand with the saw. what a pain to remove. i haven't even bothered putting it back on the stand. so far Ive seen two that i like, yours being the most clever ;-)
I bet I watch the hundred of these videos on making these all of them have great ideas good views I truly believe your design is the best simple elegant good brain waves I love it dude
Hi ; Again Love you work, You keep it cool by not closing vent (some closing it). I think I can put a 10 X13 in table with fence and cross cut on both sides My table will go up and down as to shield that 5 in blade. Your video was the best in so many ways I loved it.Keep on helping us " Thank You Sir "
Yes I agree. I like your design better than the swag. Easier removal of tool and table. Thanx for the video. I’m make one like this once I’m able to get the saw lol 😂
Really like your design. Love the pin idea in the handle too. Attention to detail is 2nd to none. Subscribed to your channel 10 seconds in the video. (You really need to fix that bunch of washer tho lol) thanks man !!
Good idea. I’m working on putting together 3 wall mount versions right now to sell. No bottom plate. 2 cross bars welded to the main tube. Drilled to accept small lag bolts.
@@outlierknives7297 for a small shop it is important to be able to quickly pull a tool from storage, get it ready and then put it back into it’s (usually small) storage space. That is why a vise mounted stand with “quick disconnect “ is so appealing.
@@outlierknives7297 check the top handle holder on this one ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ra3JnBAMNcs.html I will combine the top handle holder from that video with your single column design and add a trough with some clamp to hold the bottom. This way no modification of the tool will be needed. Your table design is brilliant so I will just copy that. Thanks for the inspiration.
Hi Rob, I don't have a portaband saw but I have to say the stand looks very well built indeed. I think eventually though you may need to replace the aluminium table for a steel one. All the best Sandy (Jacklore)
restorick2378 I use the West System Epoxy in the making of my Micarta, I used the same to epoxy the pin in place in the handle. Because there is not a lot of side to side movement of the saw, it’s held very well so far.
This is one of the best stands I've seen so far. Great job. I was just wondering how the bottom of the stand where the bolts are look like (where you welded the round bars too)?
G4CEFITNESS Those just act as a “T” handle welded to the head of a bolt. A nut is welded to the bottom plate and the T handle bolt just screws into it. It is long enough to screw below the surface of your table top to prevent movement if you can’t bolt it down.
Got mine done weeks ago ..Did your round stock on hand. 1 Mine mounts like yours .One post. 2 My three legged table goes and locks in place 3 seconds 3 my table is 12 x14 inchs.no needs to lock in also don't move. 4 my 40 walt led light on with saw switch. 5 mine has 2 outlets also handy 6 Only mod made was rod in handle as yours. 7 Mine can be built by anyone with welding skills. 8 Mine is the best I have seen........9You want to see mine ..contack me before the other guy. Thanks
im just not sure about your "epoxy'd" handles ... especially that all the weight is hanging on them. Otherwise, nice set up. How did you bolt the quick release? Did you thread the aluminum plate?
DIY & MORE It’s a single 1/2” pin that runs through the handle. I drilled a hole in the web of the handle then epoxied it in place. The epoxy just keeps it from rocking side to side. The weight is still held by the handle. Yes I tapped a hole in the plate to match the quick release.
I like the looks of your design. I watched Simple little Life as he was building and installing his and many others. There is one thing about your design that concerns me and that is the 1/2 inch steel dowels. You say they are epoxied in. Now that they have been used for 6 months or so I wonder how they are holding up. It seems like all the weight is on the pins. I do admit though I have not taken the handle off of my Port a Band to see how rugged it is.
Jim KK4VKZ There is a “Web” if plastic in the middle of the handle. This seems to take the weight of the saw no problem. I’ve filled either side of the web with the epoxy. It has locked the steel pin in place with no problems. Not yet anyways. 😃
Jim KK4VKZ And actually there is only one pin. It’s about 4” long. Sticks out about 1/4” from either side of the handle. This allows the saw to fit back in the plastic box with no issues.
It’s been working great. There is a little movement in the table as the large table I made attaches to the shoe on the saw. Not too much of a concern as I always leave a little extra material to be machined off on my sander. That brings it square.
Good stand. I have a porta-band saw blade question. I have a Harbor Freight porta-band saw that I've mounted (similar to this) on my wall. It works great but after cutting about an hour (accumulative time) the blade develops metal fatigue and little fractures develop all along the back of the blade (perpendicular to the blade length). Eventually the blade begins to "lope" because of the fractures and subsequently breaks. The teeth are in great shape & sharp and could cut for untold hours more if not for the cracks that lead to breakage. Is this common to all porta-band saws or just Harbor Freight models? Is it just the cheap Harbor Freight blades? What is a recommended quality blade? I think the blade length is 44 1/2 inches (going from memory right now)? Looking at the blade guide bearings they are very, very close to the large drive wheels and this puts a sharp angle change to the blade twice on each revolution. Is this a bad design that isn't present in other higher priced models? Thanks for any advice.
HWPcville Hi. Being in Canada I’m not familiar with the quality of the harbour freight saws or blades. I’m currently using Milwaukee blades and have not experienced any problems with this combination of saw and blade. I use my saw quite frequently and I am on my second blade. It could be a issue with the quality of steel they use and this is why your having these fractures. Sorry I can’t be more help. Rob
I use Lennox blades mostly. The Morse brand is also durable. I've also used the new Bauer blades from Harbor Freight. No issues with what your describing. Little tip, keep a little piece of beeswax handy, when cutting through thicker steel , touch the wax block to each side every few minutes. A little lube goes a long way. Also, be sure your using a blade with the appropriate tooth count for the stock. Fine tooth for thin stock, lower tooth count for thicker materials. The 10/14 staggered pitch works well from say 3/16"- 1/2". 10 tooth for thicker. And on the thin stuff I use 18 or 24 tooth. The goal is to have a minimum of 2-3 teeth in the material when cutting. Any less leads to the little cracked teeth which creep into the spine of the blades. Hope that helps I use my 2 portabands daily and for extended lengths of time. I have both a Milwaukee and the Bauer from HF.
I think every portaband will occasionally/eventually crack blades because of small wheel diameter. I believe the band that comes with the HF saw is 25 thous thick. Most of the replacement blades are 20 thous. Thinner blades are less prone to fatigue cracks. The tension is also important. If your saw runs a bit tight, you might want to try putting a stop/limiter on the tensioner lever so you get a tad less tension and/or try different brands of bands. The slower the speed, the more cutting you can do in the same number of revolutions, in general. So even if you're running slow enough to prevent tooth wear, it might help to reduce the speed to decrease the fatigue on the band. BTW, I think the band size for this saw is 44 7/8".
Milwaukee band saw blades from home depot. By three in a package for under $20, online only. Pay almost the same in the store for a package of two. Haven't used them long enough to evaluate fairly, but no problems so far. Avoid harbor fright consumables like the plague, as to Bauer, they might be OK, but they are the same price as Milwaukie.
@@andyhill4373 Honestly I misplaced this video, but now that's it's been relocated thanks to your comment, I have bookmarked it and plan on starting this project soon. In my experience, it usually is much easier to drill a 1/8 or 3/16 pilot hole in items first, before drilling full-size. Personally I believe something like this would be better to drill halfway from both sides. Minor corrections then can be made before drilling up to full size. Enjoy your build.
andy hill All the way through. There’s only a thin web of material in the middle of the handle. . This allowed for the one piece rod to slide through the hole and allow the epoxy to be poured in from either side.
Sooey 911 I was thinking of that too. I don't have a shop myself I work from my porch and I made a simple bracket to mount on my house and hold my saw from the handle. I do like the quick release table.
Sooey 911 I don't know the channel but the guy I copied had a shop in a shipping container. I just used a little angle iron and flar bar to make my mount but I'd like to make a stand at table hight so I can cut on long sections. I've been buying from a steel yard 20ft at a time.
I built a better one, Mine has light, outlet, switch to on off, my has three leg 10 x12" table, don't block vent in anyway that pays in place and don't move , mine has cross cut, mine let saw out in seconds, mine is the best, you might be second Thanks for showing and shown well Sir
