To get those kind of quality fast action images with a Pentax, especially an older Pentax, once again proves it's the photographer not the camera. Nicely done.👍
Thanks mate much appreciated! I think a lot is to be said for knowing your gear & what it can/cant do, Eddy Summers made this point in his last video on why he still shoots Pentax. I'm no great photographer I think I've just learnt through trail & error what my gear can do for me in the conditions I shoot in most often, as many other togs will have in the genera they shoot the most.
Good video. I find that most people don’t understand the focus modes and think that spot can be used only in afs. I kmow that because I was one of them. Only when I started experimenting with different settings did I learn ;-)
I've been shooting with Pentax for 30+ years. I absolutely love Pentax DSLRs. OK they're not the best, but they're my favourite. Why? Because they're so close to the old film 35mm SLRs. The photos are more down to the photographer rather than the camera. I also use only Pentax lenses and I find the dynamic range with this combination is amazing. I've recently watched RU-vid videos by people that have bought a new Canon (I think it's called an R3, I could be wrong) and they're complaining about the button placements, some of them did look awkward to me. Pentax have always done a pretty good job with button placement. Don't get me wrong, advancements in technology are a good thing for some things but when it comes to photography it's wrong. Better low light ISO performance is a good thing, and suits me for the sort of photography I do. I just think that all this new tech is taking the work and skill away from the photographer. I'm referring to a new thing with mirrorless cameras with "eye tracking focus" (or whatever they call it). I'm happy with the autofocus on all of my Pentax cameras most of the time, if I'm not I use manual focus (it's not a problem). The cameras nowadays are doing all the work. Where's the fun in that? The skill in taking a great photograph is moving further away from the person behind the camera for most of the manufacturers, hopefully Pentax will stay true to the art of photography. Long live Pentax is what I say. And please don't go mirrorless.
The reasons I first bought a Pentax camera still stand: A value for money feature packed camera system geared towards outdoor use that creates amazing images. That being said I can see the benefits of having features like "Eye AF" which would let the photographer concentrate more on the composition while being sure that critical focus was obtained. Whatever I do in the future I'll most likely always have a Pentax camera & lens in my collection.
Cheers buddy, I was back shooting action st the tracks this weekend but thought why not chuck a manual 70-210 SMC lens on and see if I can actually get any shots in focus! Turns out you can! I'll have that video ready for next Friday I think.
Great video, Lee! I just have to get a K-3 or K-3 II! Haha. I am using a K200D as my first digital Pentax and while I don't have a TAv, I just use Tv at 1/2000sec at least, AF-S, evaluative metering, multi-AF point for birding. I just use the 50-200mm WR but prefocused to infinity before taking the shot. I like the 50-200mm because the screw drive AF is relatively quick, the focusing ring is relatively smooth for prefocusing and, when calibrated, the AF points are aggressive.
Thanks mate! There's some good deals on the K3 & K3ii that pop up every so often, keep a look out for them. Yeah the 50-200 WR is another really good value lens, like you say it is pretty quick to focus, you make some good points about pre focus before you shoot so the camera isn't having to work the AF system much once the subject enters the frame. Does the K200D have a CCD sensor?
@@LeeIveson Welcome. Yes, I am always on a look out for good bargains. Yup, the K200D has a CCD sensor. I believe it is the last model to have one. Cheers.
@@LeeIveson Yes, they do! It's more like a throwback to film with the JPEGs and even after post-processing. I think they are the closest to film that I have tried. Cheers.
@@LeeIveson Mo Lee I don't but I crop and enhance in post processing mainly contrast , saturation, clarity, and Dodge and Burn. So all my picturs of BIF get processed. Stationary mainly cropped at a distance.
You've really got them down, those motocross shots, Lee. 👍Would they be easier to get with a Nikon D500 or one of Sony's AF computers? Probably yes, but even with those, it will depend a little on the lenses used, and it always helps when you know what you're doing. And then there's also that special pride that comes from sensing that many of the bigger-brand shooters who may have the supposedly latest-and-greatest at their disposal, sometimes double the worth of one's own gear, are not necessarily going away with better shots. Plus, even Pentaxians who are able and willing to spend that kind of money have an upgrade path, in our case to the K-3 III.
Thanks Marc much appreciated mate! Yeah I defiantly think it would be easier to shoot this kind of stuff with a D500 or any of the new generation mirrorless cameras from any manufacture 100% But like you say we work with what we have at our disposal, we do have an upgrade path, I like that Pentax are putting out updates for the K3iii to improve aspects of that camera all the time, I also hear rumours about a possible DA*50-135 PLM! That would be a lens I'd love to get my hands on, although I think the price tag may put a stop to that for me haha
Will give it a go :) For sports it's easy: shoot with central AF point and pre-focus where the vehicle will come from. Plus AF-C mode, and I do in TV mode in the speed I like. You need a fast responsive Lens attached. Then you have different things to test and try and so on, different set ups. All the best,
@@markstoker3077 You grabbed yourself a winner their mate! That's such a steal! The 18-135 is a really nice allrounder & it is WR so you have a WR ready setup for £420 not bad at all.
Sorry Mark re-watching it I didn't say did I. Well it's basically because I have found the Pentax AF system is not very good at spray & pray so I'd be filling my card up with out of focus shots. I usually shoot in single shot mode but thought I'd try the low speed burst in conjunction with "Focus Priority" as to be sure I was giving the camera the best chance of locking focus at a reduced burst rate, I have tried this with medium & high before with mixed success. If the AF system was as good as say a D500 I would probably not have to shoot this way as the AF system on that camera from the looks of it can maintain accurate focus at full burst with most of the images coming out sharp, shooting action with Pentax requires knowing what can & can not be achieved.
@@danigonzalez4299 We all do things different, I'd be interested to know how you go about captureing action & the settings that you use. You must not have posted your comment, I noticed you deleted a comment from Facebook before I had chance to read it 🤷♂️
Only sports photography I’ve done is rugby, looking to get access to shoot some basketball here soon though. Panning is something I’d like to master, there are some dirt bike tracks here in Manila might look those up too.
Do it! You will love shooting the dirt bikes! The MX scene is full of friendly people too so you will have plenty of them wanting there shots taken. For the panning try & match the speed your subject is traveling, keep your rotation smooth then see how low you can get the shutter speed while keeping the subject sharp, like everything the more you practice it the better you will get.
Great shots and explanation! I'm curious why you stick to 1/1250 and don't go even faster? Like at the end of the video when your shots were coming out at F14. It does look cool though, like it freezes the rider but there's a little blur on the wheels spinning. Not sure if that's why or what. I need to experiment more with turning off stabilization. I was getting some weird results with birds in flight the other day and I realized it could be because I left stabilization on. Is that why you turn it off if you can afford it?
Thanks! I think I'm normally at 1/1250 to keep my ISO as low as possible while still freezing action when using TAV mode, I think 1/1250 is my go to but I go lower or higher on the shutter speed all the time depending on the shooting conditions. When I was at f14 my shutter was down at 1/160 or lower to get the motion blur which is intentional for those shots, to be fair I've gotten those kind of shots at 1/60 before but it's pretty hard 😅 As for the stabilisation, I've just found that when I'm using fast shutter speeds to freeze the action I get better results turning the IS off, it all depends on the focal length I'm shooting at as to what that shutter speed number is that I can turn IS off.
Little late to the party - I noticed you were able to have the front and rear scroll wheel active and controlling two features at once. I got my k3 yesterday and I was unable to figure out how to do this. Do you mind providing me with instructions in how to use both wheels to control iso and shutter speed simultaneously. Not sure if it is possible. I want to shoot retro prime lenses as that is what I have and this would be nice thing to control without having to use the buttons. Been watching and loving the videos. Thanks for making these great tutorials!
It sounds like you just need to turn your mode dial to TAV mode. You can then control the apature & shutter via both the wheels & the camera will change the ISO accordingly.
@@LeeIveson that should work! Appreciate the help and quick response. Already been having fun in my living room with the thing. Can’t wait to take it. I feel pretty lucky to have found a mint premium silver edition in 2024. It had like 300 shutters on it for 500usd with the grip and strap. Your videos have been very helpful as I have been watching them in anticipation of its arrival. Thanks Lee!
I might have to revisit this one! I haven't used my K3 for fast action in a while! Could be interesting to go back & see if my preferences have changed since shooting the K3iii.
Hi Lee. I purchased your K3 III and wondering if you have any advice for AF settings when shooting high school soccer. Most games are at night under poor lighting conditions. I have the Sigma 70-200 2.8 HSM II. I have shot with a variety of settings and haven't noticed any significant improvement either way. I'm not super experienced so maybe I'm just not capable of noticing slight improvements. Of course I'm always shooting in the highest burst mode - but I've read where some recommend a lower burst mode for slower moving objects - soccer often times is relatively slow moving at the point of the photo - except for the ball. I'm also considering a lens upgrade - maybe the newest Sigma or the Pentax.
I've never shot under the lights myself so I cant speak on those conditions. But apart from that I would treat it just the same as any other moving subject, all the same principles apply. Good thing is the iso performance on the K3iii is very good as you will know so I wouldn't be too concerned with shutter speed, I'd rather get the shot than have something blurry. One thing I will say is that I tend to shoot in single frame and not burst mode, just my personal preference mainly down to not wanting to sift through loads of shots to find minor differences.
I have both and the .K3-11 is a better camera hands down I use my K70 for low light photography . The K3-11 is better but for action the 27 focus points on the K3-11 versus the 11 Focus points on the K70 does make a difference and for ruggedness the K3-11 fills more rugged than the K70 in build quality
