I'm a self-employed calibrator for hire, and I'm glad you're pointing out that 'factory center' is not always the best setting for the Peaking "sharpness" control. Of course, neither is cranked up, lol! Where we differ is in our technique - I learned, from discs such as Avia and Digital Video Essentials - to lower sharpness all the way, put up a gray/black pattern similar to yours, and raise the sharpness UP from its MINIMUM until you see ringing start to appear. Then, back off a value or two from that point, and essentially, the sharpness control is 'flat' - it is neither adding to nor subtracting from the display image. Write that value down somewhere, or photograph all the calibrated picture and grayscale settings for future reference, or in the case someone futzes with them...! Good to see we both care about quality home video display reproduction! Cheers!
Thanks for your comment. We will shortly be releasing a video on calibration tools etc. Always interested in other calibrators. What training do you have? What courses have you done and how many courses have you sat? What tools do you use and how often do you get your sensors themselves calibrated? Love to hear more about what you do as a professional for hire
thanks for the test patterns. Can you explain how do you use all of them? There's files like the Dolby Vision Mode Test etc which I have no clue of how to use.
@@AndrewPoole01 Yep, brightness is up and contrast is a bit too much. But it looks great for what it is...if I tone down brightness and contrast ....it doesn't look popping. So, there is a dilemma. Every colors look great except the white and this only happen in bright scene. I think that was one negative about the projector, it sacrifice color for brightness. It's UHD51ALV. Overall, not a bad projector.
@@reptilexcq2 ok so brightness isnt brightness it is black level (you may know this if so apologies) if you turn brightness up then blacks disappear! So turn brightness down (increases Dynamic range) and then maybe drop contrast a little (massively improve detail in bright scenes) and you should be looking better! See how you go and use some test patterns!
But what if the seating position is not optimal (far from the standards/recommendations) ? Shall sharpness be increased for the "perceived sharpness" to compensate the distance? Even though small artifacting is created? So this pattern and tips still apply for the scenario I have mentioned or the sofa should be moved first? Lol Thanks!
The way I used this pattern to adjust my HDTV's sharpness is by quickly turning my sharpness up and down repeatedly while taking it down. I've found that doing this is much more noticeable to the eye than just analyzing the image for haloing. If it still flickers from point A (down) to B (up), then B is still too sharp. You just have to keep turning the sharpness down each step while checking for flickering until you reach a point where you can't see a bright flicker anymore. I hope that makes sense.
The exact spot I watched for flickering is located in strip of fines lines that run across the screen with numbers above and below. If that area flickers, then just keep bringing it down.
Sorry about the strobing its a mismatch between the projector frame rate and the camera frame rate. If we get time we will reshoot this video but we wanted to get it up on line...
I would've recorded this video with a 3LCD or Lcos projector instead of inferior DLP to mitigate the scanline issue ;-) And maybe add the calibration pattern at the end of the video, although I'm not sure if the RU-vid algorithm causes artifacts that mess it up.
Hi boys, the frustrating thing about sharpness, is that to have it essentially right, also means that it is still a little soft...it's always a pain, because you get incredible detail when it's up with the white flaring artefacts, but when it's set to " PERFECT " you have softness, which is incredibly annoying...
Hi so interesting comment and I understand what you mean. If it is correctly adjusted then the "lines" should be tack sharp and there should be no softness to the image BUT if we are talking projectors especially then this is a can or worms because we have lens issues, chromatic aberration, convergence and other issues that make these nice "sharp" lines look woeful. Its one of the reasons we are Barco fans as this is not an issue with great optics and DLP BUT even so if the screen is not totally square to the projector then one corner or other or more can be out of focus making those sharp lines look dismal. So yes it takes effort and that takes time..... TV's however should look very good indeed and should not really look soft if properly adjusted. This will also depend on the test pattern you are using. Try a microburst pattern and see what your TV does with that. If that does not scale perfectly down to the 1 pixel line then you have other issues making your picture "soft". :-)
On my Panasonic ST60 is hard to set the sharpness settings because there is no white line spot even from zero to 50.I use Tru cinema mode for day, and custom for night, both are diffirent in terms of sharpness.
you can use a meno or any image with lines or download images from the 'net. Or if in doubt just reduce your sharpness on your display to say 20-25% of the total possible and that should get you closer. Ideally set all modes on same sharpness and save them.
@@HomeTheatreEngineering i found settings to my set on the web in Hungarian site.For true cinema they recomended 8-10 and for custom 0-1.So i stick to these two.
@@MicPrime Sharpness should be the same on those presets but increased contrast on a plasma can enhance the look of sharpness induced artifacts and therefore make presets look different. ISF recommendations are to turn sharpness down until there is no evidence of artifacting. This is considered by the ISF to give the best image as it introduces nothing that isnt already in the sources material. For the ST60 the recommendation is to set Sharpness to 0. But we are all welcome to set our TVs as we wish. Thank you for your comments. Hope we helped a bit.
