So glad I found this video, Ive had the same concern with my troopy for a year or so and it’s at the point where I’m scared to take it too far away. Started researching this topic and it seems I might’ve found the answer. Cheers mate 👍🏽🍻
Just completed the same mod to my N/A GQ. Temp gauge was always at half when cruising around town. Now barely moves off cold. Even with a solid hour or so cruising the suburbs it still stays cool. I'm not posh enough for a gauge with numbers but I believe it's been well worth the money. Glad to see someone else have the same experience.
I put a big alloy 3 core in my GQ that had the same issue and it fixed it outright, still with standard fan.i bet with the fan upgrade too it would be the perfect fix
Ya gotta work out thoes little issues, my GQ TD didnt overheat being NA but when the stock clutch fan went i replace it with a stock one and bingo, my wrx loved genuine stuff same as my 1kd, an aftermarket thermostat was terrible but genuine (and cheaper) it loved life
Great vid thanks. Now if only I could find one to suit a holden 5.0litre in a Range Rover 😅 This vid is inspiring to address cooling issues in general anyway. The relief you convey says it all.
I know you've sorted your issues with that fan replacement but something to keep in mind also, big spotlights in that position block a lot more wind than you'd think! seems like quite a few people sort other lighting options just to keep as much airflow going to the radiator as possible. I've just replaced my spotties with a good quality light bar so will see how that goes.
I’ve cooked a couple td42s regrettably and a few other tds and it was always the blocked radiator, point is they will never cook if the water temp is kept cool and airflow is granted. Have a work Ute (td42) with over 500k klms and still goes hard and we work them really hard.
Good move! Running cooler makes everything last longer. I imagine the driving lights reduce air flow over the radiator - are there options that take the big DL's out of the picture and have a nice open area in front of the grille - a light bar or some tiny high power DL's or something?
I agree mate. As far as the lights go, I’ve talked to a few mates that have gone from having driving lights to a lightbar or vice versa and either way hasn’t really made a difference. So I haven’t thought too much into.
My Td use to sit around 100 ive changed fan hub pump and radiator and it dropped to 80 radiator itself dropped it by 10 and surprisingly i changed my turbo from a 16g to a gtx2867 and it lowered my highway temps. I can now do 120 before my temps climb before it was 100. Worth talking about
70C too cold, your engine is designed to run warm to be at its most efficient in terms of fuelling....etc, 90C is normal as long as it is stable. modern engines are quite happy around 100C. The fan is really there for low speeds. Your vehicle should cool naturally at highway speeds with natural airflow. Suggests the fan is masking your root cause.
what temp would be ideal? mine goes up to 90c to 100c on traffic but on highway speeds it goes down to 70c even when im pushing it hard its not heating up that much as long as its moving fast. Thinking of replacing the 76.5 thermostat to a higher one to get it to stay at 80 something.
Hallo, I replaced my radiator with a bigger 3 core. Not much of an improvement. On a hot day, up a mountain road, 35-40 Celcius , the thermostad goes up to 3/4 and still climbing. Now, can I fit this bigger fan? My clearance is 2" from the fan to the radiator edge. Some pictures would be great of this clearance.
I have a 2000 gu td42 and even at ambient 40c and pushing it up long hills very long, i just cant get the temp to move off 11 o'clock, not towing but with AC on
