The best tyres for overland travel (at least in my book) 

Finally, someone in the 4x4 community who is practical and gets to the point!

as a fellow overlander, I can say with certainty, I have never seen video in which so much common sense was obvious. Thank you, I agree with every conclusion you came to. One additional point on tyres is the availability of a replacement in remote areas. You will always find standard tyres in Africa where Land Rovers still abound but over large specialist tyres are impossible to find.

You sir are a legend. I salute you for your knowledge and enthusiasm. Thank you for sharing.

Great video mate! Well thought out and logical advice. I've been running wide tyres and rims on my Hilux for years and can't say I have enjoyed any advantage. After careful consideration, I'm going back to standard tyres on split rims. Keep up the great work with the vids and safe travels!

Thanks for a well thought, logical video explaining the benefits. It seems the only arguments for expensive wide tyres are aesthetics and floatation which isn’t required for majority of vehicles. If it’s a purpose built rock crawler or snow travel vehicle that’s different but for over landing, touring and general 4WDing, skinny tyres and steel rims work best.

Great vid kind Sir!

I´m preparing a expedition around Marocco and found just what I needed; a good advice from a guy who has actual experience. Thank you very much good sir!

I overland in southern afrika and replaced my alloys with steel rims due to pothole damage. Also I found narrower tires give a better turning circle and better fuel consumption. Wider tyres did not work for me as well as the narrower tyres, I am currently running 7.50R16 on my Defender. Thanks for your video with great points to consider.

1) Skinny steel rims and tyres are best. 2) High profile square edged tyres are best to prevent staking in the side wall. 3) Mud tyres (in radial form) have open cleats which assist in catching stakes and helping drive them in causing a puncture. It's hard to drive a stake through a tread block and a carcass but it's easy to drive a stake between open wide tread blocks and through a carcass. 4) Tyres which are road oriented with closed tread blocks are much more puncture resistant. 5) When a vehicle needs to suddenly stop on a bitumen road, all terrain and road-oriented tread patterned tyres allow good braking and control. Mud tyres are dangerous on wet, icey and greasy bitumen. 6) Good suspension and differential locks get you further with bald tyres than big mud tyres and awful suspension and no diff locks. 7) For most people in the western world (first world) tubeless tyres are the best. Having an ARB Speedy Seal kit is essential as is a compressor. 8) If you're travelling across the central asian steppe for 6 months then you might want to consider skinny Cross Ply tyres in 8,10,12,14,16 ply for puncture resistance. MRF brand are good. 9) If you do run split rims and tubes you should carry quality Michelin or Bridgestone tubes. Quality tubes make all the difference - and keep them clean. 10) 90% of punctures are caused by either poor quality tubes or poor/unclean fitment. Even too much Talc can collect and go hard and wear a hole in a tube. Don't over do it. 11) Tip for new players : Only buy tyre levers from the tyre industry. Don't buy them from an Auto Store - they are rubbish. Poor man buys twice. Cheap tyre levers break and bend. 12) The 4wd magazines are all sponsored by the tyre manufacturers. Tyre shops want to sell tyres with profit so they sell you what's popular. 13) The best tyres are boring, plain, un-cool skinny tyres of LT design with a road oriented tread. NB : I wouldn't listen to anyone from SA when it comes to overland cross country driving. There is no experts on You Tube. 14) The first thing a 4wd needs is an air compressor - not a set of tyres.

Good video! I put alloy rims on the defender in Australia for the Western Walkabout series and 2 of them developed little splits from a heavy load and rough roads. I’ll be down grading back to steel if I ever return to my homeland. Great channel.

It's about time that someone chose to create an excellently presented video built around a sound understanding of physics, years of firsthand experience and a foundation of common sense. Not to mention the fact that caring what absolute strangers think and say about one's opinions is so often fueled by those who merely regurgitate the utterances of the inexperienced and uneducated. Thank you, Sir!

I very much agree. I keep things as standard and light as possible. I've recently taken quite a liking to Bridgestone AT001 tyres, well worth a look but tubeless only. I'm happy with my set up but I still enjoy watching videos like this as you never know what you will pick up. I had never thought about adding tpms but I will now.

Hi I run a 1993 110 Defender fitted with 7.5 x 16 Michelin XZL tyres and which does probably 90% of its time on road as my daily driver and 10% towing a 10 foot twin axle flatbed trailer loaded with 2x round hay bales into and out of fields during the winter months for feeding livestock. in my experience I find them to be well mannered on road with good grip in wet or dry conditions and also reliable at getting across wet fields even with the trailer attached. Mileage wise I regularly get approx 45,000 miles out of the fronts and 50,000 miles from the rears. Yes they are a bit noisy on the road but lets face it, I'm not driving a Rolls Royce who used to market their cars by saying that the only noise you would hear when driving them was the clock ticking! and I have the reassurance that I am not going to be stuck in the middle of a field in the middle of winter with a trailer full of hay.

Thats what I like about you, your to the point nothing fancy just what works best. You sort of remind me of this other youtuber called , The Road Chose Me.

I'm a big fan of Landrover Defenders and have used them extensively for professional (geology) and touristic purposes in Iceland and in Africa. However, it is slightly ironic to argue for reliability when leaning against a Defender. Yes, they are relatively easy to repair but reliability is still preferable from my perspective. I do not agree with every point you make but enjoy your videos very much. Most of all your direct style of communication.

I like Goodyear's Duratracs they are a good mix between AT and MT tread and I love the look

Always run a 7.50 or 235/85 in the 30yrs of landrovers. The track edge was a brilliant tyre grip wise but i felt they suffered with a side wall that was easily damaged. I agree with the XZL and recently put another set of 7.50s, they are noisy but never had an issue with grip on or off road or in snow. Given there has been a lot of progress by other in the AT area I think for the next set I will look for something in that range too. I do like you bead breaker for the high lift jack, that's a nice idea.

Here in Australia we have a lot of sand. Lots of low pressure work . The friction with tubed tyres is just not worth it .

Thankyou for a very well informed vlog. I throughly enjoyed the layout and the presentation. How have I not come across you before? I have a 1997 Discovery 300tdi, owned her since 1998. Consider a new subscriber! Excellent!

If RU-vid had more videos like this, it would be a much better place to get advice. There were a lot of things covered most wouldn't think of or be aware of and it was very valuable. I also don't fit unnecessary parts or large tyres. I work off what I need and what will be reliable, both in itself and how it will affect the longterm reliability of the vehicle. I myself chose Falken WildPeak AT Trail, in OEM size and rating, which fitted to my 18inch OEM wheels and carried a minimal weight penalty. This means less risk to the diff and gearbox over time. They also have a stronger sidewall than the OEM tyres. You sir just got a Like and a new Subscriber! Haha. All the best

Some great advice here. Very sound tips for reliability. Thanks for a great video.

Another excellent tyre is the Cooper st maxx. I have the 235/85 and they're the best I've had.

This is an amazing video! Great job! thank you for sharing! you made a documentary of 19 mins!

Solid common sense Sir. Thank you so much.

Thank you for your efforts and God bless! Well done.

Absolutely solid advice.

My experience comes from driving in extreme weather. I delivered with my vehicle in the early mornig hours before road crews were out fixing washouts or plowing snow. I covered 200 miles per day and that was before cell phones. You learned because you didn't want to walk a long distance in deep snow and bitter cold to find a phone. I found narrow tires did much better not only in deep snow but also wet snow. Wide tires in wet snow pushes it in front of the tire. Depending on the tread pattern, it would stick to the tire which became a snow sock. That cut out your traction. Probably the best thing for a four wheel drive is to make it a real four wheel drive, not one in the front and one in the back with power. I learned this from two wheel drive vehicles. Is you had a positive traction rear differential you went much farther. Even worked with a pickup truck with no extra weight in the bed of the truck. The tall skiny tires should be a no brainer. Look at the original military tires on a Jeep and the ones on the Volkswagon or for that matter the Model T. All used tall narrow tires, not because the engineers wre to stupid in making tire decisions. They knew they worked. They were designed when very few roads were paved.

Good to hear advice from someone with actual experience of the practicalities involved. I would agree that looks above function are a common factor with wheels and tyres. 750 x 16 (or equivalent) is the optimum size for my 110 and it looks good on a Discovery 1 too. Also agree on the Goodyear Wranglers as a good general purpose tyre in this size, although mud terrains are the best if permanently in muddy conditions. Another good tyre for mixed use is the BF Goodrich AT, with good road manners and it gets good mileage.

Thanks so much for your videos. Before I saw them I was beginning to think I was slowly going mad. "why am I the only lemming to be able to see the cliff" :) But now, I may have found a kindred spirit. I'm a great believer in "the manufacturer PROBABLY knows best" they may have had a reason for the design, so have a little think for yourself from a logical engineering point of view. Thanks again. Keep up the great videos.

Started watching thinking what would this English Git know there is almost no overland areas in the UK and not a great deal in Europe proper. This old hand in a few minutes covered topics that are now under discussion years before any else thought of it. SUBSCRIBED

Learned something today never knew about the tube type tyre and the other use for a hilift jack. Thank you sir.

This is someone who actually does the overlanding.

I used those Goodyear Wrangler Radial MT tyres on my SIII for several years for use in daily driving and greenlaning. They lasted very well and were fine for 99% of greenlanes. I've used Michelin XZLs in that size too and they only lasted a fraction of the time before they were worn out. I did like them though. Road handling and off road performance were good.

Though I agree with much of what you’re saying. Technology has moved on and good quality alloy rims exist. There are also garbage steel ones. I’ve run alloys for years across harsh Australian conditions and never once had an issue. Also tyre technology has moved on significantly too. You are significantly restricted running tubed tyres. The biggest issue is running lower pressures, as they are prone to overheating. Modern good quality Mud tyres like KM3 are extremely versatile and extremely strong. Though I’ve never done over landing in Europe, I seriously doubt that conditions are anywhere near as harsh as Australia or Africa.

Another great video, thank you for sharing real facts.

I have a 1982 chevy k5 blazer. I dont overland with it but I do some mild to moderate off road. It weighs about 4500lbs. It has a 4" lift kit and 35x12.5 mud/snows on steelies....mostly mud (it's how I bought it). #1 bling/chrome dont get you home and #2. When it comes time to replace the tires I will be installing something skinnier......skinny tires cut deep into the ground and find traction PLUS they handle much better on the road and put much less stress on the axles and front end components. Save your $$ on fat tires and instead get s really good winch because I dont care what tires you have, you WILL get stuck somewhere eventually!!!

it always depends on the application and use there is no one fits approach, for your purposes, vehicle and travel the tyre choice makes perfect sense for me it would not so. Just keep in mind calling aloy rims brittle is not true I dare to say any (expensive) 7075 alloy rim will be stronger and will take way more abuse then any steel rim but that is only refereing to strenth the other points you mention especially for travel in poorer countries and replacemnt are valid points. My touring vehicle also runs cheap steel rims lol.

I enjoy this video immensely. I'm wondering about your opinion regarding two-wheel drive or rear wheel drive and mud tires. I have a rear wheel drive pickup truck. And I put mud tires on the back and all terrains on the front. I rotate side to side rather than front to rear. But I like the mud tires because I've only got one axle to get me out of trouble if I get into trouble. I have never found all terrains to be that great in the mud. When I first bought the truck it had street tires and I got stuck on wet grass. I swore that wasn't going to happen again. It's something that I saw on a lot of trucks growing up in the sixties and seventies in the US. It seemed to make sense now as much as it did then. I didn't want mud tires on the front because they take away from the mileage for no good reason on the front, at least no good reason that I could tell. I've already tested these in the rain for the last few years and they haven't caused me any problems they all grip about the same on dry pavement and in the rain. Anyway I'd appreciate any input you might have. Looking forward to any more content you might put out. I find yours one of the most useful channels on the whole of RU-vid. So I watch the videos again and again.

After doing North and South America, Africa and Australia, 80% on dirt roads, these are my observations: 1. An A/T rated tyre is sufficient if it comes from a major manufacturer. For me the best by far was the Yokohama Geolander. 2. Great on gravel, adequate in mud, quiet on the blacktop. No punctures. 3. They bag out nicely when you air. down for sand with high flotation. 4. You can buy them anywhere and they are easy to fit roadside. M/T tyres are better in mud, But nowhere else. They are stiff, heavy and don't float on sand. They are very noisy on blacktop. Check out "The Road Chose Me" youtube videos.

The British Trans Americas expedition famously knackered their Range Rovers with big tyres and wheels.

Some years ago, my son and me habe done about 10k kilometers through Moroc, on and Offroad plus 2x2k kilometers to get there and back. 7.50R16 Michelin xzl in Standard 5.5 rims Had done an excellent job. In soft-sand passages down to 0.8 bar, muddy and stony tracks were No severe Problems, apart from 5 Times using the Hi-Lift and alu-sand boards. Still going strong, only thread depth isn't no longer sufficient.

7.50/R16 is the tyre size used by the British military and the US Rangers. These are tall tyres with a relatively narrow tread. No sane military would equip their Defenders with wide profile tyres, for one very good reason. That is that the military MUST GET THROUGH and all other considerations are secondary. Tall thin tyres will always find grip because they cut through the grass or mud or snow to find the underlying earth. That means grip! While fat wide profile tyres are nice if you want to minimalise any damage to the surface, it is essential for the military - and an overlander - to get through. As for the best value 7.50/R16 tyres, then try ordering a set of DEESTONE tyres + inner tubes. These are like the old factory-fitted military tyre (indeed, I suspect DEESTONE may have acquired the moulds). They're only caveat being that these tyres take a month or two to 'bed in', during which time they're quite slippery on tarmac. Also, be aware that Mud & Snow tyres have an entirely different tread to Sand cross-ply rather than radials, but you're unlikely to need radials on a Defender. Finally, note that both of these are off-road tyres as versus the so-called all terrain tyres used by primarily on-road 'Chelsea Tractor' 4x4s. Have fun and safe driving. Postscript: on getting your 7.50/R16 tyres wheel balanced. I suggest looking around for an independent tyre house with eastern-European tyre fitters. They're familiar with heavy agricultural tyres with inner tubes, and will have both the strength and the expertise to bounce these big heavy wheels as the inner tubes are first inflated. Failure to do this will strain the valve and result in inner tube punctures.

Totally agree with you sir. Thank you for the lessons!

Just discovered your channel and loving it. I also watch other channels but to be honest purely for the Starship Enterprise approach to Overlanding which is unacheivable for me, but it's entertaining. However your channel is far more grounded and "real world". I don't have £100k to spend on an overlanding vehicle and then be frightened of scratching it...... I could go on.

The breaking of the swivel of GrizzlyNbear's front axle was related to a production fault in these front axles of early Puma Defenders. I've seen a similar breakdown with the same story somewhere else. I only found this out after I acquired a 2008 Puma.... Great channel, by the way. Nothing better than experience.

Man leaning on a Land Rover says "if you want to keep your vehicle reliable". Land Rovers are absolutely reliable from the factory, you can guarantee you'll be under it soon. Over all I think it's all good advice but very region specific. I haven't seen an inner tube in over 30 years in my country (USA). I've never had a problem running aluminum rims. I hate steel tube less rims as they always rot and loose air. Salted roads are murder on steel. I do agree that lots of overlanding gear is unnecessary even when it is good quality and a lot of it isn't good quality.

Bloody good show, Old Chap. I drive almost exclusively off the road here in Alaska, and so I like the more aggressive all terrain radial tyres with a little less pressure in them, so the sharp bedrock doesn't shred them as easily, and the traction in steep terrain is better. OEM steel rims and tall skinnies work for my old llA. Pip pip 👍

Very interesting video thanks... I am interested in the heavy duty tubes but the link is not working and I cant find any info about the company. Do you know are they still in open? or another supplier? Thanks

We have always used 700 16 off road tread on steel wheels on a f250 4 wheel drive high boy, never been stuck yet a winch helps..? 40 years..?

The majority of modern overland stuff is all about looking cool over actual function. They end up with so much money in it it’s hard to really take it overlanding and tear it up. Plus, then they’d have to face the fact that their rig sucks at actually overlanding.

You make an excellent point but I still like my Cooper STTs that are too wide.

Absolutely spot on advice! I’m currently using Continental Cross Contact AT which came as standard on my Defender Puma and they are great! Priced well they have lasted 3 years and I’ve just bought another set! Wheel and Tyre weight is something not fully considered! I have Land Rover Wolf Rims a Standard Steel! The standard is super capable and much easier to handle. Another great video!

Thank you very much Sir, for sharing your knowledge and experience, new channel added to my list. Kind Regards

On high tech equipment... the more high tech, the more likely to break when you need it.

Good man. Talking sense.

Hi Bill, excellent video. I was hoping to pick your brains for some advice please if you would be so kind. I wouldn't class myself as particularly experienced in this realm, having not ventured that far out of Yorkshire, but I have been reading and trying to learn lots around this subject of tyres ahead of planning my own self supported expeditions to the Moroccan Sahara, and generally travelling Europe. I am 24 years old and have a 2008 110 2.4 Puma ex Red Cross and a 1989 One Ten V8. A few of my friends have pickups and 4x4 SUVs and insist on fitting massive stupid mud tyres, and indeed, I myself went through a phase with my V8 of running it as a daily with a set of 235/85 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R (as fitted as LRs standard mud tyre on the Pumas) - I will say that they do look very cool, but this is of course logically irellevant. But I am a bit of a realist here in that my daily driver is 95% road miles when at home, with only light green landing off road, and also 'playing' in the snow in winter, but I would also like to keep the same set of tyres for adventuring and non adventuring - and tyres are not cheap - so I want to fit a set which will suit my needs and be the best all rounder for me. For the Puma I am kitting this out to be the expedition vehicle with a relatively barebones camping setup with some electrical and water facilities. I daily drive the puma so it has to be good on road, good on fuel, ideally not too noisy, and have good mileage all out of the tyres. But then I would like it to be strong and capable off road for whatever obstacle I may encounter. I understand this is a slight oxymoron, and the tyre I choose may be inherently a 'compromise'. I am running the standard (non wolf) steel wheels (called 5.5 I think?). I have narrowed the choice down to Michelin Latitude Cross in 7.50 R16 (from what I have read this is 35% off road/65% on road bias tyre, acting like an AT off road, and like a road tyre on road, and was standard fit on Pumas). Many people rave about this tyre and I like the look of it very much. Another option is Bridgestone Duellers in 7.50, and these also have the benefit of the EU '3 peak mountain flake' rating for winter use in Europe which is really quite appealing. The final option is Michelin XZL, which are supposedly very strong, very good in sandy conditions, however I am told are lethal in the wet and ice/snow, therefore rendering them quite poor as a set to leave on my Puma for commuting to work etc when I am not on expedition. I think my favourite choice is the Michelin Latitude Cross - have you ever run these tyres or heard any feedback on them for expedition use? My question to you is - what tyre would you choose and why? Also, would you have any other recommendations for me for other brands/models? Thank you very much indeed and please do keep on making these brilliant videos.

Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac’s are f’ing awesome!!

Just a heads up on two things. Firstly, both Michelin Latitude Cross and XZL 7.50 R16, despite being tubeless, are marked "may be used with tube". Secondly, Vintage Tyres stock brand new genuine Michelin Airstop inner tubes.

A wise man here, although 265 mm isn’t fancy or that wide, the extra width makes it way better off road, skinny tires are great when mud or snow isn’t deep, and skinny doesn’t work well in sand.. and he’s right about not using large rims, I’d never use 18”-20”… and wheel spacers are junk.

alloy wheels can be much stronger than steel. Rays Eng. makes super durable forged alloy wheels (te37xt). it would be a great upgrade to use tubeless tyres and light weight rims that are quite durable(stronger than steel rims made with sheet metal like the once your are running (yes they are stronger)) you would save around 7 kg per wheel without compromising. tubeless and light weight. what more could ask for? i guess less costs for this upgrade. but it's a life time upgrade.

These vehicles hsve NO power and all they run in dand and level dirt roads.

im 62 years old and have been offroad touring , overlanding in oz and the usa for 40 years , i have owned my 110 for the last 20years . for the last 15 ive switched to no tubes in a tubeless tyre on tubed original rim . bfg mudies ,10ply and have run at 10psi on the sand . tyre retailers say not to do this but i have only had 1 come offf the rim [ rubicon trail usa ] . i do a lot of sand/beach driving and the tubes would wear out from the inside due to low pressures. so 10 ply tubeless on tubed standard rims not exactly legal but with carefull driving will work the best

Superswampers tsl or groundhogs well now super swamper colbolts

Soil mechanics come into tyre effectiveness. Shear strength, wet/dry density all determine which tyres (tread design, running pressure, footprint length, self cleaning) are best OVERALL. You can not predict soil conditions, so be conservative.

I recognise the channel he disagrees with, and I agree that guy is a boorish lout seemingly endorsing whatever expensive and excessive kit he is paid to advertise in a style that looks like an honest review. There are plenty of channels doing that for pay or freebies, but few giving honest advice that promotes humble and simple equipment.

Great video! I once had a 1943 GPW with 7.50 x 16 tube tyres! Brings back some great memories.

I genuinely miss my 88 series 2a... One vehicle I should never have let go. Thank you for the video. Wranglers are the 'poop' but become pucks at -25C.

HI! Super movie. I agree with you. Big doesn't mean good. Everyone has different requirements. Decide for yourself. Fashion is a bad advisor. Greetings !

safety... a half flat tubless tyre on the front of a car hits a curb or something at motorway speed... peels of the rim... an instant deflate... and roll over of the car.... the tubless is a higher risk set up.. maybe not such a good idea.

I'm 70+ and have been in the off-road arena for many decades (Dick Cepek and Mickey Thompson) days. A tall narrow tire is the way to go and especially on a steel wheel. Why steel wheels? Because they are easy to care for and if they get bent in the field they can be bent back whereas the aluminum wheel cracks and there is nothing you can do. If we did use aluminum wheels they spun aluminum NOT cast.

the best tires for overland travelly...did I miss something, aren't all tires for overland travelling

You are bang on correct about breaking traction before the vehicle I watched a demo on a Landcruiser on concrete with twin locked differentials spinning all four wheels as the engineer said the vehicle design everything was stronger than the contact of the tyres

I don't know about where you're at but that grinding on the inside of the tire would no longer be on road dot approved here.

thank you very much. Today I received a magnificent class from you. I believe that you are very correct.

This is why I like to hang around with older people. 5 minutes with them and we learn so much. But if you allow me an advice: please don’t place that foot between the bull bar and the grill… 😮 one small balance issue and….

On my own experience (no defender but discovery or range so same tyres applies) : Originals alloys, with either AT in 265/75R16 or 235/85R16 MT and never BF (always the most expensive, heavy and outdated).

Sound advice Many thanks

I’m no outdoorsy guy, but I read a decade ago, that the farther you are away from populated areas, you shouldn’t go for very specific hardware because mechanics wouldn’t have neither skills or spare parts in remote locations. Seemed a good advice at that time. Guess it holds true today. (Theme was the Australian outback.)

Hi, great vid. Is your 12 item TPM. system the Michelin branded, too?

Vrakking Tyres, Holland. Supplier of ex Mil and other tyres.

Impresive and sincer video, definitivle apreciate thanks for sharing and waiting for more

that was a very informative report on tyres as I Run my Pagero mk 2 on BF Goodrich and they have served me well apart from one out of the batch that has let me down for 4 years, even though all the tyres were fitted 10 years ago ,now I need to get 2new bf Goodrich for the front at least around 400,00 pounds , Ilike this tyre and has served me well .any help as money is struggle I need 2 Bf Goodrich match the rear👍

Its hard to drive overwater, overland means on the road or offroad?

best opinions iv heard !! you are a gentleman and a scholar, thank you

Thanks from Heber City Utah. Solid info!

Agree with everything you said, because it is my experience also.

LOOK OUT SIDE THE BOX RT TYRES

your mic is unbearable in this video.

Kiss. Keep it simple stupid. Very well explained.

Great video and advice. I have a 1981 Series 3 SWB and I opted for a full set of x5 5.5" steel rims and the Michelin 7.50 XZL R16. I did so much research. Everyone was suggesting the 235 x 85 because they "look good".. I am so pleased with my tyres. On off road days they never let me down whilst others are always getting stuck. Yes not great on the road, especially in the wet but I do very few miles and have lots of fun off road. I think I bought the KABAT inners but can't remember so checking my records.. I vaguely recall reading -ve comments about Air Tight. Once again, great videos. I have a question: Should I be rotating the wheels/tyres as the spare on the bonnet is clearly unused and as I have free wheeling hubs the rears more likely to wear sooner? Only done around 4-500 miles in the last year so I'm guessing if I rotate I should be doing it any time soon?

Steel rims can also be repaired with relative ease. Alloy rims are a nightmare to repair.

Does anyone know what brand the new mud terrain tires in this video are?

Enjoyed the insights, not doing a lot of overlanding but travelling a lot on unpaved roads so I'll be looking into all the points. Might seem a little superficial, but the Michelin XZL do look good on a 90...which is a non-essential extra overlanding.

In the USA most of the rigs you see driving down the road will never see the dirt .

👋🏻🤠🇫🇮

A small winch would be helpfull

Here's aamaising recommendation for getting tires off the beed very easily. Use silicone grease on the bead. You will be able to get the tire off the beed by stepping on it when the air is removed, no matter how long the tire is left on the rim.. I started doing this with aircraft tires because it was taking us hours to get them off the rims even with hydraulic tools made to break the beed. I started putting a thin coat of silicone grease on the rim where the beed is. The silicone grease protects the metal from corrosion and the rubber from degradation. The tire may slip on the rim half a turn or so if you apply more than a very thin coat, which is a good sign when you are using tubeless tires that the tire is going to come off great when needed. If you are using a tube, I would recommend a very thin coat of silicone grease. Silicone grease is the most amazing thing I have seen for facilitating an easy repair or replacement of a tire. It keeps the bead aria like new and effortless to remove.

Thanks a million. Great video. Got the vehicle with big tyres 275/75/16 but will be going smaller when the time comes for a change(the tyres are expensive regardless of size).

💀😅👌🏾🙏🏾

damn, this dude is awesome. so much experience in what he talks about