The Big Build 24. Oak Framing tips including fitting staddle stones and drilling for pegs 

All the old Oak barns I have pulled apart and rebuilt had the pegs all the way through. I used to do the same out of tradition. I was also always taught to draw dowel. Drill the hole right through the mortice then put the tenon in. Put the drill back in and kiss the tenon then pull back out and offset a whisker. Taper the end of your peg and bang through tightening the joint. There was some wonderful joinery on those old barns. Pulling them apart taught me a lot. 1/2 lap dove tailed collars. Huge cross beams dove tailed into the equally huge top plate. Your favourite pegged scarf joints. Beautifully cut purlins and birds mouth struts. All cut by hand with no power tools. Skilled workers. Your half a ton of Oak is going to be an equally nice feature.

You guys really did a stellar job on the intro Logo .... I love it. Always inspiring and immensely informative. Gorgeous work. Hope your weekend is perfect Robin. Cheers.

I can’t wait to catch up on the big build just doing a full house renovation and not getting any time to watch the series keep it up robin

I must admit l have seen first-hand Victorian quality joinery when they demolish an old part of the hospital at which l worked. The roof timber joints were as good as the day they were installed, nowadays we rarely have the opportunity to see quality building work being carried out. Sadly most new building work is now down to cost and profit margins. Keep up the good work and stay safe.

nice to see someone taking pride in their work and sharing good content keep up the good work Robin!

Excellent attention to detail!

Robbin is top class

Oi nicee job there old man. Great work👏👏👊😁

It's all these little tips that help ,we all have our own way of doing jobs ,so it's great to see it done in a different way , the little tips nice 👍👏😁☘️🇮🇪👋🤟

Very nice

Gorgeous!

Amazing craftsmanship, looking forward to seeing the next video in the build

brilliant video

Said so before, you are a talented/skilled man. Pleasure to watch and learn.

Your videos are sophisticated & fun to experience. Especially since the quality of the work & explanations are so exceptional.

Carpentry the first of the Arts.

Fantastic work Robin !!!

Lovely work gentlemen! Looking great 👍🏻

Lovely job 👍🏻

Wonderful work.Cheers!

Nooice!

Awesome 👏

Hello Robin, Brilliant I love your accuracy and precision. Best tips. Best wishes from Leicester ENGLAND

Its really nice to see how you put all the parts together with all the nice details. I'm curious on how you fixed the timber posts to the stone? Doesn't look like the rods that are sticking out are that long to mechanically fix them. Cheers

Very nice work Robin with heaps of job satisfaction.😀👍

12:20 tssk, tssk, you didn't draw-bore the holes? Come on Robin!

Hi Robin. Did you use draw peg dowling so the hole in the brace is just a mil or so offset towards the tenon shoulder, so when you knock the peg through, it draw the tenon joint in tighter than a straight through hole? Great work as always, and I love the content.

Robin could you show how you made the double rebate at the end of the top rail.?

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Hi Robin, I wondered how you address the issue with the upright posts where they meet the concrete blocks, is it wise to leave a gap between the two to prevent the posts from rot?

If you were making an oak frame building all all the lengths were approx 3m (not ideal I know but it’s what we’ve got) would you sit the wall plates ontop of each upright and join them there or mortise and tenon them into the side of each upright? I feel that would look nicer as a seat cut always seems difficult to make perfect but would probably be much quicker and maybe stronger for the roof to sit on rather than a mortise and tenon? Thanks for the video. Cheers

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Probably my eyesight Robin but, is there a reason the peg holes for the brace mortices are slightly inboard of C/L? More rigidity?

Wondered whether you offset the peg holes in the Tennons, to tighten up the joint?

Hi guys, when you drilled through the tenon for pegs did you ofset the hole slightly to pull the two components together (draw bore)?

Hi Rob, quick question (not related to this video). Im currently constructing a warm flat roof with a central roof lantern. Would you continue the insulation up the outside of the roof lantern upstand? I know theres only around 100mm of upstand above the roof finish and probably nothing to worry about regards condensation. As far i can see, everybody just insulates inbetween the timbers of the upstand frame. I would love to know how you would tackle this detail. Thanks, Joe.

said it before robin.... genius..

Is this the last we see of the oak frame being assembled and erected, an extra 10 minutes would have made all the difference.

What kind of offset do you put your pegs at? i.e. how far out of line are the holes on the tenon to pull the joint tight?

So how do you dissemble those joints if need be if the peg does not go thru the whole way?

Templet? Template R-Dogg.

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Templates!

The arguments I've had with tradesmen that say it's "SADDLESTONES".....

Come on Robin. 20 minutes watching you drill holes isn't that thrilling! Up the quality my man!