I just bought my first house with a VA loan and I realize now after watching this how fortunate I am. I only have my principal/interest and homeowners insurance to pay. I can't imagine having to pay property taxes and PMI, it would make buying a house impossible for me. Good luck to everyone out there navigating the home buying process, I feel for you!
@@kandeetyme8422congrats VA is the best loan. Both of my properties in San Diego are with VA loans. One is almost paid off with 6 months remaining on mortgage
Well i was lucky enough to get rid of the PMI after three years of buying the house. Due to the pandemic home price went up sky high so I refinance and that's how the PMI came off the mortgage. My payment drop by $1100 i was so happy still feeling happy about it.
Similar for me! Woohoo. I do feel fortunate indeed not having to pay a 6 or 7 % interest. And no PMI as well. I wouldn't be able to buy if I'd have bought it now. We'll, I could have but it would be tight.
Why don’t people take care of their house!? I can’t find anything in my price range that will qualify for the FHA inspection because people don’t take care of their house
You might look into the FHA 203K loans, which you can use for renovations. The only potential problem is that the home will then have to be brought up to FHA standards, so you are forced to fix things immediately that maybe you'd prefer to do later.
House maintenance is expensive and time consuming. A lot of people in the cheaper houses FHA is looking at don't have a ton of extra tine or money. Also chicken and egg. The houses are usually lower priced because of the deferred maintenance. I have a friend looking for a house on a small budget. Same problem. Big FHA issues due to issues.
I bought a townhome in September of 2023 with an FHA loan. I paid about $10,000 out of pocket during the process and also got $15,000 from the government towards the down payment that I don't have to pay back as long as I'm in the home for 3 years and don't refinance during that time period. My final loan amount was $203,500 with a rate of 6.875%.
@@BREEZYM6015 I’m not sure if you’re aware you can do FHA streamline to lower your rate. I’m already seeing few lenders are already offering 5% depending on credit. There’s also a rumor about fed lowering rates to another half a point in September. Keep an eye on it and do whatever makes sense to you. It probably cost you to little or no cost I know VA IRRRL almost at no cost. If it’s me I probably wait until September if I can save 300+ it probably worth refinancing like I said it depends how much your savings.
FHA. Alabama, 300k home but we financed 296k after 3.5% down. 5.75% (lender buy down). My credit score is 717. Husband’s is 703, so we qualified for conventional but started the pre-approval w/ FHA. We received more incentives from the seller partially due to going w/ their preferred lender, but I don’t think our loan was more difficult or “undesirable” than their conventional pre-approvals. Smooth process for us. House was complete 7/31. We closed on 8/9.
Javier, you have me the confidence and knowledge to move to a lower cost of living area and buy a house. You really helped me understand how to not be house broke, and I even had the confidence to negotiate the loan and saved .5% interest at the time! Thanks Javier. Keep it up.
I was an FHA buyer and to stand appeal to sellers, i had to outbid all other buyers including sweeten the pot to compete with cash buyers. Ended up paying only 605k for my first home in 2020 in San Diego which back then was insane but now doesnt seem like all that much. Most homes in the deserts are more than that now.
@@marlowstanfield6815 pretty sure it depends on your debt to equity ratio. Once it gets to 20% you can get rid of PMI. And when you refinance they will do an appraisal and the equity might have increased since you last bought, so that will help the ratio.
At current market I’ll take FHA over conventional because of lower rates with a chance of streamline refi at no equity. Only downside is mortgage insurance but lower rate compared to conventional. Other than cash buyers VA is the best loan
I recently sold my house to a buyer with an FHA loan. I did not have good experience with this loan (Twice, I had to extend the closing deadline due to delays from the FHA loan. It took 55 days to close on the house due to delays with buyers' down payment assistance and processing times from the loan company).
That’s not just an FHA issue, most banks are incredibly slow at processing all loan types. The average time it takes to refinance a VA loan for example is about 90 days. And this is refinancing the current primary residence of the borrower through the same bank they have their original mortgage through. It’s as much the fault of the lender as it is the government agencies.
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Making things more accessible via loans destroyed the American dreams. It’s easier for people to get in but the market know so they raise the price. Cars houses student loans all went up cause of loans.
The PMI is calculated at .55% of the standing balance on the loan. It’s pretty much increasing the interest rate by half a point. That’s almost always off set by the nearly 1% discount you get on the mortgage rate. A lot of times the FHA loan is the better way to go when the difference in interest rate is over .5%
I put fix and flippers in the same boat as wholesalers. Honestly multiple of the fix and flips I've seen have been so poorly and half butt patched to looked good, fix and flippers are probably the worst of the two
you're spot on. it took us 7 offers before someone accepted one and we made a lot of compromises by that point and I didn't really look over the house as extensively as I should have since it was our 7th offer and at that point we were just making offers on anything that met our main criteria of a 3 bedroom, yard, garage. once the inspector was sent in we found some issues that were mostly taken care of but I know if I was more patient I could have found a better house for what we're paying for this one. in the end if closing goes through though I'll be happy just having our main critiera we wanted especially a garage. The basement needs work and it's an older house but that gives me something new to learn and do I suppose. We could have qualified for a conventional but by the time I found out you didn't always have to have 20% down I was already in too deep and sick of sending documents in and didn't want to start over so we stuck with FHA
We went conventional and got an acceptance after our first offer. We only offered what they ask for. We were shocked because they asked us 2 times to see if we would like to outbid the other offers and we said no. We stood firm but in the end we got an acceptance because we had a conventional loan and the house had cosmetic issues. The house is a perfect layout, 1700sqft, 3 bedrooms, 1.5 bath, 2 car attached garage, big fenced backyard with patio area in a very nice quiet neighborhood. We couldn’t ask for more and we know the resell would be good too.
My fha inspector was awesome. They often work in a famously rundown city so when they saw the old ac, the pavement damage and the older roof, they rated everything as middle of the road as far as condition. 😂
I get why FHA inspectors are so strict about the home because most of the time people that are going FHA are doing it because of money and they're not going to have the money to be doing a lot of repairs on the home but my first mortgage was FHA and the things that they disqualify for are ridiculous minor paint chips, doors that don't close smoothly, my inspector even required the window screens to be replaced because they were too old. To me FHA is the way to go to get into your first home, but after that I would go conventional. But the huge advantage to FHA is that you can sell your home to someone else at the same exact interest rate as long as they can qualify for the loan and that's a huge selling point if you have a very low interest rate mortgage. A lot of sellers will go with conventional loan buyers before they will FHA because of all the strick requirements on the home.
I did not know that going in as a first time home buyer. Luckily we went conventional and although our offer was lower than the other FHA loan borrowers we got the acceptance.
Hearing you talk about the strict condition requirements with an FHA loan has me wondering if you have any experience with the FHA 203k loan. It seems like their purpose is to help get buyers into those fixer-upper homes, but there's not a lot of information about them. I'd love a video with advice on 203ks and other rehab/reno mortgage options.
@Ncarlos012 you are correct, at a minimum in terms of the UFMIP, all FHA loans have that regardless the LTV. However, if you refi into a conventional loan within X number of years you get an UFMIP refund.
I would not use FHA on a home over 300k with these rates so Buying a FHA home in this market is insane to me. You absolutely cannot afford that home. The PMI will be high and your own saving habits are bad if you cannot save the 20 percent.
Down Payment FHA Loans: 3.5% down payment with a credit score of 580 or higher; 10% down payment with a credit score between 500-579 USDA Loans: No down payment required Credit Score FHA Loans: Minimum credit score of 580 USDA Loans: Minimum credit score of 640 Income Limits FHA Loans: No income limits USDA Loans: Income limits vary by region, but are generally set for low-to-moderate income borrowers Property Location FHA Loans: Available for properties in all areas, including urban and suburban areas USDA Loans: Available only for properties in rural areas, as designated by the USDA Property Type FHA Loans: Available for primary residences, including single-family homes, townhouses, and condominiums USDA Loans: Available only for single-family homes in rural areas Mortgage Insurance FHA Loans: Upfront mortgage insurance premium (1.75%) and annual mortgage insurance premiums (0.45% to 1.05% of the average annual scheduled unpaid principal balance) USDA Loans: Upfront guarantee fee (1%) and annual fee (0.35% of the average annual scheduled unpaid principal balance) Loan Limits FHA Loans: Vary by county, but typically up to $356,362 for single-family homes in most areas USDA Loans: No set loan limit, but the home must be modest in size for the area and cannot have luxury features Interest Rates FHA Loans: Vary by lender, credit score, down payment, and other factors USDA Loans: Set by the lender, but can be as low as current market rates due to government backing Eligibility FHA Loans: More lenient credit requirements and debt-to-income ratios (DTI) compared to USDA Loans USDA Loans: Stricter income and property location requirements compared to FHA Loans In summary, FHA Loans are a better option for borrowers who: Have a lower credit score (500-579) Need a down payment option Are looking for a loan for a property in an urban or suburban area Have a higher debt-to-income ratio USDA Loans are a better option for borrowers who: Are looking for a no-down-payment option Meet income limits and live in rural areas Are looking for a loan with lower mortgage insurance fees Are purchasing a single-family home in a rural area Ultimately, the choice between FHA and USDA Loans depends on individual borrower circumstances and needs. It’s essential to carefully review the eligibility requirements and terms of each loan program to determine which one is best suited for your situation.
*Financial planning is like navigation. If you know where you are and where you want to go, navigation isn't such a great problem. It's when you don't know the two points that it's difficult* ...
Don't buy things you cannot afford. Someone with a 580 credit score typically does not understand this. Just because an entity will give you credit, doesn't mean you can afford it.
Do the math first. 20% gonna have you putting up a shitload upfront and paying a higher interest rate. Look into paying less upfront, investing the rest, and worry about getting rid of your PMI when you hit 20% equity on the property.
Hi Javier, I live in Santa Cruz CA, and have been wanting to buy a home for a long time now. Sadly, as you may know, home prices here are rediculous. I had bad timing in that I didn't start making good money until 2021. Do you think it would be wise to just hold out to see what the market does, or should I just take try and buy anyways. A worry I have is that I'm 39 years old right now and don't know if I could pay off a mortgage before I retire. Thanks for all you do. - Miguel
So if I can just do conventional instead of FHA I can save that extra insurance premium monthly ?? Why isn’t this explained to me by my lender or agent ??
Do you have a presentation about the police, fire department, etc down payment program, the procedure to apply for the grant? I do know it run out of money...as for the seller while is fine. A listing agent was very derrogatory about thda buyer.
When it comes to comparing offers a seller's agent should always ask both buyers for their best and final. A convention loan is more appealing because like he said you don't have to worry as much about an appraisal ruining a purchase. It has nothing to do with looking down on a buyer because of the type of loan they have. Government loans have stricter guidelines.
So was my experience, the inspector killed the deal. My house was inspected twice..FHA and VA was ok (I was play by listing agent)...then I pay for my house to be re-inspected again, after the last conventional inspector, who staged the pictures.
The FHA low down payment is super good and far outweighs the cons including mortgage insurance and the house condition. The price of your house will go up with the rate of inflation. Meanwhile your down payment as a percentage of your house value goes down until it eventually gets to a point where it doesn't even meet the FHA 3.5% minimum down. Some people get crap for raises so I think you need to stretch to the max house you can get including more square footage and a shorter commute to work.
Refinance to conventional to get rid of mortgage insurance? Yes as long as you have at least 20% in equity. Try to refi when rate lower than your current rate if possible
I feel like, to compare apples to apples, you'd have to do the math to see how PMI compares to the ~.5% rate reduction + DPA programs, and I feel like they probably close to wash (but too lazy to do the math). Really like your points about the home inspections and stigma from sellers/agents.
How long do you need to have a credit score for to be eligible for an FHA loan? I am newish to the country and have only had a US credit score for around 2 months. Couple mortgage lenders said that I had to wait a couple months? But not sure if that's FHA or not?
I was just going to say that, a lender gave me that option too, basically because with their FHA loan, they could give me a lower rate, but I still got questions.
He is wrong on PMI. You can get rid of it. According to the Home Owners Protection Act of 1998,, once you achieve 80% or less LTV (Loan Amount to Home Value), are current on payments, and have a flawless payment history on the loan and you can make written request to drop PMI. It is NOT for life if you are a good steward of your finances.
You can get rid of mortgage insurance by refinance to conventional as long as you have 20% in equity. It really depends with situation. I wouldn’t refinance if my rate is 3% below. More likely it will cost you more on mortgage because of higher rate.
For FHA loans originated before June third, twenty thirteen, MIP can be removed when the unpaid principal balance is seventy eight% or less of the original value of the property. For FHA loans originated on or after June third twenty thirteen, MIP cannot be removed; it will remain for the life of the loan. Refinancing Options If you want to remove MIP, refinancing into a conventional loan may be an option. However, you’ll need to meet certain criteria: Your loan-to-value (LTV) ratio must be eighty % or less. You’ll need to refinance into a conventional loan with a competitive interest rate and without mortgage insurance requirements.
I applied for a home with new American and was denied even for $150k. I’ve made 47 and 51k the last 2 years and this year I should be at 65-68k, they said I pay too much for my auto $659 and child support $527, don’t know where to go from here. Any advice or thoughts, credit score is 674
Wait until you at least have 1 full year making 60k+. Based on my quick mental math you would already be looking at 40% DTI before housing was included. At 60k it's closer to 20-30% so if you can find a house at 20(ish)% HTI I would think you may have a shot. Javier has a video about figuring out for yourself what you can afford, would recommend that. But at 150k you'll probably be looking at 1000-1250 payment (assuming a 6.75% interest rate, pretty standard atm) which is ~20% HTI ratio + ~20% for your current DTI.
They do have FHA 203k renovation loan but it's too strict and over regulated. The contractors on the FHA list are a bunch of thieves that over charge for different repairs or renovations.
Oh stop it! I know 3 people who did the 203k, including myself, and we had no problems. You have to interview contractors and be knowledgeable about what your doing. I h avw no regrets. In fact, when I buy my next house, I'm gonna do the same thing.
@@tamarastone141 What did I lie about? Everything I said was facts. The contractors have to submit receipts for every little thing that's purchased and sometimes it can take a long time for them to get the funds. They also charge high labor prices. Post your projects and contractor costs?
@ozonespec first of all, if you haven't done a 203k loan YOURSELF, we don't have anything to talk about. You lack experience..second of all what does posting my receipts have anything to do with anything? If you're broke just say that. You obviously can't afford it and you're mad
@@tamarastone141 I told you to post your project costs not receipts, to prove that your project expenses were reasonable. You probably can't tell the difference.
The .55 is only for a streamline refi. The purchase rate for a term greater than 15 years with 5% or less down is .85 for the life of the loan. It’s higher on a high limit loan.
From a sellers point of view why would i want to deal with an extra inspection with an FHA than a conventional? So i can easily see why sellers would rather take a conventional offer first.
From $37K to $65K that's the minimum range of profit return every month I think it's not a bad one for me, now I have enough to pay bills and take care of my family. ❤️
I lost over $70k when everything started to tank. Not because I was in an exchange that went belly up. I was just stupid to hold and because that's what everyone said. I'm still responsible. It just taught me to be a better investor now that I understand more of what could go wrong. It took me over two years of being in the market, I'm really grateful I found one source to recover my money, at least $10k profits weekly. Thanks Belinda Owens.
