@@JoshTheChevyBoy No battery under the hood unless you use the xs sb series banks. So you can use and do a battery delete or get one of the xs power under hood sb banks.
They just don't like his style and hate to see him slaying in every way 😂 it is what it is. Especially in a hobby like car audio you just gotta know 75% of the hobbyists that open their mouths or keyboards are haters. Same with drones
@@THELIFEOFPRICE I get that but knowing how nervous I get sometimes, that's an accident waiting to happen for myself. Iv dropped a 14 mm socket in between buss bar on my Northstar neg and positive and almost started a small fire in my trunk. Bolt got wedged somehow and I pulled to pry it out and it fell in between p and n and started a small firework show. Battery still works but it ruined my buss bar and hurt my pride a bit.
Just installed this in my truck and love it I have a bit more space and got rid of that 80pound battery in my trunk now I just need to make a rack to mount it on and my amp as well
I know that this video is older but for JP or anyone else... instead of using any sort of (obviously electrical type) tape to place on the buss bars, use a QUALITY spray-on plasti-dip product. It will take more work to remove the screw sets, plug the holes, etc. but that's kinda what we do in this community ;) Do your HW A-L-W-A-Y-S but it will look super professional/finished spraying it.
Have the JP40 and the JP630. Front battery delete, 3 runs of 0 gage to the back. Running 2 sundown 12s x series in D4S hd3 box. 350 amp alt. Jp83 at 1ohm. Wow voltage stays at 13.8 no lower but I can’t bump😢 have to brace the whole roof or rear window will shatter. Love it in a sedan so I really couldn’t run any other battery’s or caps just no room for anything else. Thank you JP!!!
when he says battery delete does that mean don’t run it in series with the under the hood battery? i have a mechman 370 alternator under the hood , do i just run a whole new power wire to the back & connect it to the jp40? & don’t run the stock battery to my car audio in the back ?
Seems like a cool product for those doing upper level systems that want to do battery deletes and or switch out batteries but for those running more simple daily systems that currently run Agms as the main battery or factory even if you have the big 3 it will be a pain. I recently purchased the D4sound big 3 kit and bought a XS power D3400 for under the hood and these jp 40s cant be used with it?? Guess Id have to use the LTOs 6.0s since they can be wired in with a AGM.
Dude just get rid of the AGM battery altogether. People act like a battery delete is some big ass mod that takes a bunch of work. If you have 2 batteries... One, MUCH more powerful than the other, then why would you want to keep around the shitty weak one? You think 40ah of lithium cant start a car? Rofl
@@TheAceTroubleshooter How do these lifepo4 do I'm cold weather however? Mounting it inside the car will not save the battery from -30 to -40°c which would be interesting to find out how they do in those temperatures?
It'll do fine esp in your trunk these are beast I just ordered my 2nd jp40 for 500 these aren't 900 anymore they been out for a while now this is old video..
Great job JP first Amplifiers now batteries wow Amazing work guys keep up the good work you guys really hit the jackpot with your line of product nuff respect 👍 👍 🙏
That opens up options for mounting. My nitro has a storagespaceunder the rear floor that I use for my amps and these would make it possible to run lithium becausethey would fit in that storage area
Hopefully someone can chime in. I am putting together a larger boat build. I just came accross this battery when searching out other AGM / Lithium batts. In a boat, you use a battery isolater. I have allways ran my boat builds directly off a battery switch. Allways leaving a seperate battery only for starting. Can this be used as such ? Keeping a regular group 31 agm starting batter on a second switch ? And second, what kind of playing time at party cove, sitting no engine running, would 40ah supply ? Approx a 10k watt system. I usually run 5 group 27 batteries to power only my system at a lot more then 40ah... Even 2 if these at 80ah seems not so great for playing with no engine running. Am i missing something?
"I can't wait to see people doing 2, 4, 6, or 8 of these!" I bet you can't at 999 a pop. Even at 999, if you aren't handy with this stuff, this is a super nice set up. When I get like y'all, I look forward to putting together a setup that needs a bank like this. Would be overkill for my 2 10s and JP8 lol.
Id rather have a more ugly lto bank for less and the same performance because I don't know what's I'm the new jp Lithium I've seen the old ones from the inside they're horrible from the inside
@@kargo6 issue was that it was only 5 cells and for the price... Ouch! With these, We'll see the guts soon. I do not like the bussing right on top of one another and for the size and the packaging I am very interested in the test results with that big of a claim. It's a slick idea but 1g, and the monitor is not included i don't dare ask if the lube is 😂 I'll stick with my cmax.
Sounds like you talking about the gain / sensitivity potentiometer, which is you would use to match your RCA voltage. That voltage range is normal, what makes you say it is a misprint?
May I suggest adding a BATMAN (battery management system) which includes a Bluetooth/App Controller system that can provide SafeMode ER cutoff if battery exceeds temps above 120 degrees Fahrenheit, perhaps even a cooling system, thus Having controls on Lithium batteries for car audio is KEY to avoiding any type of battery explosion or fire dangers. That kind of system ALREADY built into batteries can increase battery life. May I suggest testing/research a capacitor and JP40 package system that will manage a 10K-12K watt range system??
Even with an isolator, you wouldn't recommend using this with an AGM? What about us folks that have vehicles with a regular battery and a start/stop auxiliary battery?
Really should have the positive and negative on opposing sides or have a plastic spacer on the bottom of that top rail with the amount of juice going through it. Any testing data or cell data? Being LifePo4 the numbers seem off.
I guess if I get one or two of these I won't need a cmax no more. Ok JP I like them bro! I need to upgrade, my cable fray when I blast my music. I can't even use my 8k amp so I'm using my kicker 2500.1 It cost to floss!
JP your company never makes anything for budget builders. I'm a fan and proud of your success but God damn!!! Did you forget about when you first started?
I love this and am seriously considering it. You say delete the underhood battery, so will this have the proper cranking amps to start my car? Also does it require being precharged with a lithium charger or is it plug an play?
@@nickstalhood5380 I'm wondering the same thing. Can you simply replace your vehicle's starting battery with the JP40 (obviously mounted inside and not under the hood)?
Or you can get an XS power Titan 8 s5 (12v) or s6 (14v) or s7 (16v) lithium titanate battery for under hood. They look just like a regular agm and are meant for under hood. Jonathon sells them also. They also have supplemental batteries for the back. The 3400 s5 I bought weights 9lbs and handles up to 6k rms depending on your alternator. $700 with coupon code for 5% off. Believe you would need to stick with the same line for out back though. I need the Titan 8 supplemental that will handle 2500rms and it’s about the same price.
These are amazingly nice. Can you just run a 0ga or more run from alternator directly to battery and leave your stock battery installed? Or do you have to completely remove the stock battery? Thank you and again great product this is going to look dope lined up with amp install. ✌
@thelifeofprice i am wondering if i am running this battery standalone inside a vehicle what is the temperature rating for the battery? Winter it gets down to -40°c and summer +40 in my experience lifepo4 does not do well in cold temperatures anything less then 0°c it will not work at all?
Technically yes but don't. It's $1000 for only 40ah of reserve capacity. These are for fast discharge and fast recharge systems. Not made for slow drain, high reserve capacity systems like solar.
Question !! I have a TITAN 8 in the back with a AGM under the hood , if a want to switch to JP40 can I put the TITAN 8 for the front batterie and run the JP40 in the back?
Country boy can survive Country boy can succeed Country boy kicking ass & skipping names Self made Respect Remember BASS in ya FACE 🚙📻🔈🔉🔊🔊🔊🔊💨💨💨💨💨💨💨🎼🎵🎶😎
I've got 4 xs d2400's , 2 runs of Rockford fosgate oversized 1/0 to a Js 370 amp alt. , 6 spot copper terminals , 3 1/0 copper battery distribution and all copper lugs. I got a bluetop optima on a steal new for $208 new. Just for the car not integrating with the other 4 in the trunk. I'm currently about to order the nvx 500 amp smart battery isolator that says it handles up to 700 amp surge to separate them. My question is is that sufficient enough and a good brand to use to isolate? Do I need copper solid plate buss bars? Aluminum is ran across on All 4 now. All this all will be running a sundown sfb8000 on 2 sundown x 15s. Alt puts out 14.8v at idle. Trying to decide wether to use my JL 300/4v2, or xtant 603x, or Rockford fosgate 600a4 on the mids and highs. Definitely not a inexpensive hobby. And it has taken me a long time to get this far and supporting a fam. in which just drives the determination to go big or go home. Well for now that's about all I can fit where the back seat used to be in a 98 cavelier 🤣 anyway lol if you could help me out with some knowledge JP or anyone else here is greatly appreciate it. Would love to have one of those banks ! 1 day lol. Have a good one fellow bassheads. Looking forward to some knowledge and feed back on this book I wrote on here 🤣
Jonathan, this jp40 information states do not charge over 14.8V or damage could result. My 2006 dodge 2500 operates14.7-15.1v depending on ambient temperature. How do you recommend dealing with excessive charging voltage? Also, if battery type mixing isn't recommended, how does this integrate into the factory electrical with maintaining starting that is handled by the underwood batteries(06 dodge2500 5.9Cummins). Thinking about adding 2 of these for auxiliary power. Would a battery isolation work?
Received jp40 today, no t shirt, no voltmeter, no lanyard, no sticker, no customer support, long time fan broken heart. 20$ gonna make me shop somewhere else
Hey I’m sorry to hear that man. We will get that stuff to you but you need to be sure to contact them in the proper way. If you need to check on / make any changes to your order or have questions regarding your order ,please Log into your account on www.down4soundshop.com then go to your order and find the messages tab and click send message. This is the best way of contacting as there’s no way it can be lost in spam in a normal email. As a secondary you can email sales@down4soundshop.com We do our best to get back to customers as soon as possible during business hours but please allow 24 hours for a response. You can also call 7027019800 during business hours which are Pacific Timezone Wednesday 8AM-9PM Thursday 8AM-9PM Friday 8AM-9PM Saturday 9AM-4PM Sunday Closed Monday 8AM-9PM Tuesday 8AM-9PM
@@THELIFEOFPRICE I guess one question would be around cranking amps/cold cranking amps. My project has a massive big block in it and needs somewhere north of 900 cranking amps. Would doing something like a pair of these still be able to turn her over?
@@beardedforlife3740 tell me how you get a 12v lithium cell and if the cars small so is the alternator and it will be to much work for it, it will work for a short period of time
I was totally excited for this yet the price point is just not realistic for a audio person. I can only imagine the price up here in Canada for one of these.
I really like the case. Thats hella dope. Not so sure bout a $100.00 voltmeter though. I also feel Lfp can be ran in parallel with agms, lto shouldn't but can be with isolators. Ideally you have 1 chemistry of battery in your build though but I'm using ultracaps, 256 ah of lfp and 2 agms with no isolators. Been in for over 2 yrs.
I have been on the fence wheather or not to put a Lifepo4 battery in my trunk as extra capacity with a stock AGM up front. If you let your vehicle sit for a few days is everything still good? Also with your batteries did you build yourself or use a battery with bms already in it. Thanks
If i bought 4 JP40 Lithiums would i need to buy 4 Battery Monitor Modules to Monitor all Batts connected wit Buss Bar? Or would 1 Battery Monitor Module be fine when running all of them together?
Hey Jp can you use the jp40 with original atm up front but a 200a dc to dc charger to the jp40 also is 1 jp40 enough to power 6000 watts consistently or more need to be linked together? Looking for to your reply I’m dying to finish my audio system i called the sales number and they never got back to me
Only battery you can use under the hood is a xs power under hood cap bank sb series. But you can do a battery delete and this will run the audio and the car. I would need to know what you are running but it claims it will do 6k to 12k if you look on the specs on d4s it will show you charging and what you will get out of it.
