thanks for your feedback. Watch the video at 5:45 I explain a few thing there. Also you can have a look at the article learncoatings.com/the-differences-between-roller-applied-and-self-leveling-epoxy/ . Apart from that you should consult technical data sheets of the manufacturers
If it is just wrong proportions, you can perhaps save the floor by coating one or two coats over. If you completely forgot to add the hardener well then you need to remove the old coating, wipe it down and re-coat. I made a video on various disasters here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kYYj0GgSiJE.html
An experienced applicator may be able to pull it off, but its not easy. There are many factors tht would affect the result, and it can be somewhat unpredictable
Hi Edward good to hear from you. Commercial car parks prefer a roller applied finish as they want to avoid cars skidding especially if they are caring water. They are terrified of getting injury claims and lawsuits. In a private home car park you could do both I guess
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 thank you for the answer, same with my opinion, i always propose Polyurethane Anti slip coating system for commercial car park area, refers to PTV Value (Pendelum test) ASTM Standart and abrasion Resistance, I think PU/epoxy coating ( Roller ) system have a better abrasion resist than Self leveling epoxy, Anymore input to me Sir ? Thank You Regarding from Indonesia
@@edwardnari7148 When self leveling epoxy scratches, the scratch may be more visible because of the seamless texture. So in this sense it may be more sensitive to abrasion. However overall self leveling has a better mechanical resistance
False dichotomy. You can roller apply a self levelling epoxy. I did this for my living room floor. I'm going to have to add a 2nd coat to it, simply because i had bad light and no spiked shoes. I was also unsure on coverage, so I skimped a bit at the beginning of the application. I suspected parts of the floor were not evenly coated, and I did redo part of it wearing plastic bags on my feet. That did work, and while it consumes some material, it's not bad if you just go out and back and don't traipse all over the floor. The areas where I was able to keep laying down material with my roller on an 8' extension look exactly like a self levelling pour - like glass with no orange peel. Part of the reason I was able to get it smooth was that I have a very smooth surface under it. Press board subflooring, with a liberal coating of oil based Kilz, and then three coats of porch paint with sanding between each coat to knock down high spots, with a final sanding with 600 grit at the end. How thick your epoxy needs to be to get the poured look is entirely a function of how smooth the surface is. I did a little patch work with joint compound as well - much easier to work with than floor leveling compound. It doesn't have any strength, but it's not in areas that are stressed at all - just filling dings and imperfections and seams. I made sure all my patching was covered by at least two coats of paint, and also made sure each coat was thoroughly dried to avoid bubbles in the epoxy. Oh, another screwup I made - not making sure the room was sealed from time of application until it was cured enough for foot traffic - some bits of dust/dirt ended up embedded in it. Not a lot - and if I didn't have the uneven parts, I would live with it.
