That is the greatest plan I have seen yet. The trash can is so much more affordable than the rain barrels I have been watching and hoping would reduce in price - thanks to you now I have a more affordable way of doing what has been needed to be done for years. Thank you, Judi
Nylon gets dirty quick… dirt and pollen builds up fast.. Easier to let everything just passed into the rain barrel and clean it out from there if necessary.
I use livestock tanks from Tractor Supply. I just add a mosquito dunk every month to keep the skeeters at bay. It's easier to dunk a watering can in them then bending over to turn on a faucet. And less chance for leaks.
I have this kit; I collected rain for plants & trees. I put the barrel on bricks about 3 feet high (gravity drain w/hose). One day I opened my barrel & found millions of Mosquitoes. I dropped in the disc & killed all the bugs, I drained the tank; now I have a tool barrow; with rakes, shovels spud bars brooms. The system works like they said it would but the water gets infested kind of quick, I thought it was a close system, but I was wrong. Someone told me some places do not allow rain barrows & now I know why.
It is survival water you can drink if you filter it with the appropriate water filtration system or portable filter. In a grid down situation where no water is being pumped through your plumbing from the utility company you'll be glad you had this water and a filtering system. Its called being a good boy scout.
A 90 degree ball valve works quicker at barrel spout. The water below the drain in the barrel will become full of sediment and sludge over time. Tipping barrel over and cleaning it in dry periods is expected.
Since most water out of our faucets has chlorine, this is a big positive for a rain barrel. The chlorine will no longer be an issue. Thanks for a simple, and to the point, video. Nicely done. Are the items for the barrel still available as a kit? I ask because this video is 7 years old. Or do you have an updated video?
With that support setup the spigot could have been put in the bottom, that way you can drain the whole barrel instead of always leaving a few gallons unused. And considering winter and freezing water expanding you really shouldn't leave more than an inch of water at the bottom. I wonder if the panty is a good idea; I have a feeling that it will actually clog things up more easily as small gunk that normally would have just flown into the barrel now gets stuck.
Every time it rains I notice some debris from the asphalt shingles. Won’t this build up because of the knee-high filter? Perhaps it would be better to filter in the rain barrel to make cleaning the debris easier.
I think you're right. Although I don't have this design, I do have a rain barrel out front that just has a filter on top. It gums up and clogs fairly quickly - not just the grit from the shingles but this yellow goo in the air - pollen - that mixes with the rain. My filter is easy to clean - just shake it off and put it back. This filter with the nylon would be more of a pain. Probably better to skip the nylon.
So, my interest in a rain barrel is primarily to stop erosion. I don't see how a donut-shaped object diverts ALL the water into the rain barrel? It seems like a portion would flow into the outer rim and then into the barrel while water coming down the middle of the spout would bypass the rain barrel off ramp. What am I missing? Maybe you're trying to catch just a portion? Thanks for your help.
It comes with a cap that covers the hole in the downspout. You unscrew the diverter and take it out, (disconnect the hose first) and then screw on the cap.
How are you removing the first few gallons that contains toxic chemicals from the roof or bird poops from the roof etc? And you'll have acid rains once in a while right, atleast the first few gallons needs to be cleaned out. Example: first flush systems? How do you add them?
I thought that too.. I am going to put the stocking on the hose part that goes into the barrel. Will be much easier to change out. some type of rain guard, or screen, over the hole in the gutter is a must so no little critters fall through and get stuck in the drain spout. so I'm doing both..
Cindy gives the simplest solution,since but by having the barrels in sequence,number one being set higher than number two,each one will remove the excess from the one before it. If using a hose attachment.... Utilise number one ONLY when watering any area(water pressure will be higher) ...if using a watering can....use the later barrels. If you always drill the barrel inlet/outlet in the same position,then it doesn't matter if you remove the barrels for maintainance,and then replace them in the wrong order as my neighbour's kid did. (couple months later after heavy rain garage was flooded by the barrels) Also,water filter suggestion.....old sock/used pantyhose just inside each barrel and below the overflow in his film..... NOT up near the roof. If those leaves clog a filter.... you want it to be where you can resolve the issue WITHOUT a 30 foot ladder. .....when your makeshift filter is clogged.Dispose of it and find another sock.
We drink rainwater all the time, tiled roof 30-40 meters away from a main road, unfiltered.... never had any health dramas. The body has an amazing way of protecting itself.... it's called antibodies! Something people should remember in this time of Covid 🥱
Dont do it my friend...might as well eat yellow snow. Same garbage is in the rain. Used to test at 1-5 PPM of TDS (total dissolved solids) Now tests as high as 88, with PH of above 8 sometimes... 150 PPM is considered undrinkable by FDA "standards." Our hose and tap water have tested as high as 880 PPM with a PH above eight! That will kill seedlings, and burn medium plants. Not to mention what it does to our bodies. Watch Mike videos on chemicals in our snow...same garbage is in the rain. Spoiler alert, aluminum, strontium, barium, arsenic, lithium, magnesium, sulphur, magnanese... it keeps going. A lot of them are flammable...same ingredients in sparklers, stick in your trees. Be safe friend, cheers all. Thank you Mike! Be safe friendl, cheers.
All excellent points on this thread. Could I drink rainwater occasionally and be ok, of course. Should I drink it exclusively, probably not (without an efficient filtration system). Both points are absolutes and don't always pass the test. Peter, I can appreciate you belief in a natural way of thinking (the renaissance man in me), however mankind has introduced thousands of chemicals since the 1800's which is where I can appreciate Grinnings comments.
@@weekendatbernies2265 chemtrails? I've been in aviation for over twenty years. I assure you that unless you're referring tocrop dusters or something along those lines, there aren't even tanks, lines, hoses or nozzles on aircraft to facilitate chemtrails. There's no infrastructure to support it.
Good point. It might be better to filter the muck closer to the source--where the gutter meets the downspout. Our garage gutters quickly fill with debris from elm and mulberry trees. I'm going to install either a downspout screen gutter guard or something more aggressive that screens the whole length of the gutter. (It's a perennial problem.)
@@carriem7832 , that spamming scam- thing is *everywhere*, all over RU-vid, and it pops up over and over but with different usernames. I assume that anyone who goes to the site mentioned and tries it will get hit with a virus, malware or tracking software. Just report it as spam.....
No. Even in a heavy downpour only a portion of the down flow will contact the diverter shown and only a portion of that will actually be captured. You can make your own kit or buy another type which will capture almost 100%.
Cored concrete blocks used (misused) as you show are quite weak and have a tendency to collapse under weight. That container will be quite heavy when full of water; about 340+ pounds. For safety concerns use something more suitable to the task.
Beware! Dont buy this water diverter if your barrel inlet is on the top of your barrel because eventually your barrel will overflow. There is no shut-off. This diverter requires a side inlet to your barrel, that allows gravity to stop it from overflowing. They do not explain that in their information.
I wonder what they called this that everyone did in the 1800's before there was a political "Green Initiative"... ??? People doing this currently seem to think this is a new idea... kynna funny.
@@plainandsimple6346 Considering that all words are invented, I see how people who have issues with colloquialisms tend to take themselves kynna more serious than those observing them perceive them to be.
Using rain water for your plants is a good idea, but it will hardly save the world from runoff. 1/4" of rain falling on a 1400 sq.ft. house will "produce 242 gallons of rain water. .05" of rain will fill up your barrel. Anything more that that is runoff. Free water (after the cost of the hardware and barrel) is OK but be sure to "read the fine print" when talking to environmentalists.
@@kevinwilkey4687 , true, but anything growing within 50 to 100 feet of your house can and probably should be assumed to be sucking up water that came off of your roof anyway.
