Another little trick is when you're soldering put a male and female together to help prevent the prongs from misaligning if there's too much heat to check I've been doing for a while most of the time on the male ones not have that issues with the females but I take a female to the male when I'm soldering harnesses.
This was a great video by no means am i new to soldering but I was concerned about he dissipation and heat bothering the battery. You covered both concisely and dropped some great tips!
Hi Theo Yeah im a electronic Engineer so I know flux. The solder i use have a flux core, and that is perfect for these silicone type wires 😊 And thank you
@@reflexairsoft4648Im sorry but if you are a electronic engineer I am Mickey Mouse. Your soldering skills are severly lacking and you solder like a beginner. The iron you are using is not the correct wattage, which is why you have issues over heating your connectors and wire. Plus you put way to much solder onto those wires. A first year basic electronics student learns this and can do better then you. With what you showed I would not brag and claim that I was an electronic engineer.
Hvad hedder den du bruger til at holde ledningerne med, og den til at sætte i spænd med? Jeg har simpelthen ikke kunne finde ud af hvad den hedder på dansk. Tak på forhånd.
You should never use the iron itself to melt the solder to the connection. The iron should heat the contact surface enough to melt the solder. If you use the iron instead it may not have heated the surface enough to actually adhere. This is how you end up with cold solder joints. To clarify, the only time the solder should directly touch the iron is when tinning the tip to prepare for applying heat. I'm experienced in soldering, I'm just looking for ideas of how to not fry myself accidently while soldering a live power source.
@@JD-cc2qu The plastic will melt if your soldering iron doesnt have enough power (not to confuse with the temperature), so you'll need to apply head to the terminals way too long. If your soldering iron has enough power the terminal heats up quickly and locally and the plactic should not melt. But like Bionic said you heat the surface not the solder. Even with those twisted wires; if you heat the wire and apply the solder on the wire a little below the soldering tip (so not touching the tip) the solder will flow inside the wire easily. But for deans I like to have the wire flat and not twisted so it will be a smaller joint and you use more of the deans terminal as a contact point.
This was actually perfect because I actually accidentally bought a lipo that was wired to minitamiya. Thanks dude, this was perfect timing and a really helpful video!
Straight forward and good handling of camera, thnsk for video and appreciate for making clear the connection polarities of batteries and good tip for heat dissipation, where did you bought your small press?
A really great video. Clear and concise. I am an ex-RC flyer and prefer the XT type connectors. I have found that sometimes the higher gauge silicone wire needs to be trimmed down to fit into the XT connectors. I twist then solder and take off irregularity with a needle file when cooled down. Great technique though. Now subbed.
yeahh, its good to have like a to go to connector that you know works and can handle well. Tbh, I soldered it together with my uncle since at home I don't even have an solder iron yet (gotta love student life) but its definitly on my list to get + cable strippers and those things for smaller connectors
![The easiest way to solder Airsoft LiPo [from tamiya to deans]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
