The EASIEST wiring to start an old carbureted engine! Push button start/ ignition bypass 

I appreciate it! I think about it sometimes with all of the toys and projects I have but I never seem to pick up the camera lol. Might just start filming more in the future

@@eazyduzit5309 come on man. Pick that camera up. You’re an inspiration !

Is there an easy way to wire lights in and signals as well? I don’t need dash or anything else just my headlights and taillights

@@DoesUrBeanHang yes how to wire your street rod from start to finish its orange book woth a 30s car drawn on the cover its a little book its how I learned it has comics and pics that make it easy and simplified pretty much need a fused light switch to the lights lights grounded and switch grounded to the body the book is on ebay

Currently in the same boat with a msd 6a box. Did you figute it out ?

I appreciate it!

@@eazyduzit5309 no I appreciate you 💯

I successfully fired up my engine today following your instruction. 🙏

That’s what I learned this from! Old timer down the road from me built a engine stand and used this setup, that’s where I got it from!

I just bought an 84 camaro and I have to do the same thing, did it end up working for you?

I had the same exact problem in this truck! Someone put a 90’s model Chevy tilt column in the truck and I had the same deal. In your case, I would turn the key to the “on” position then check to see if your getting power to the ignition coil (I’m going to assume you are if everything else is working but make sure to check). So if you are getting power the the ignition, but the engine won’t crank when you turn the key, then you can either do a push button start like in this video ( positive terminal on starter -> push button -> negative terminal on starter) but instead of running an ignition switch you would just need to put the key in the on position. Or, if your trying to just turn the key and crank the engine, then you would have to trace your wiring (assuming you have a wiring harness) from the starter to the ignition and see if there is any issues with the connection. Sorry for the late response, hope that helped a bit lol

383 in a ford? That’s sacrilegious! Lol good luck to you sir hope this helped

Nice! I’m a big Jeep guy, I’ve had more than I’d like to admit it lol. Always loved my YJ’s. Have fun wheeling 👍

Did you use solid or or stranded wire?

@@rylantedrick9470 stranded wire, not sure if it makes a difference or not though

It doesn’t I was just curious, I am having trouble locating the distributor on this thing tho

@@eazyduzit5309let me rephrase, I don’t think it has an hei distributor so I’m having trouble figuring out where to connect the wire that you ran to the battery spade

I actually just installed a new American auto wire harness on my buddy’s k10 and it was super neat and simple to do if you plan on redoing your harness. 10/10 recommend, anybody can do it. All the wires are labeled like every six inches and factory color code. Pay the money for it, you won’t regret it. But if you don’t want to go about doing it that way and you just want to get it running for the moment, I don’t exactly know how to rig the alternator 🤦‍♂️ but I do know that there is a wire from the positive terminal on the battery that plugs into the alternator. On that same plug there is another wire linked to it (a brown one I think?) that runs to your fuse box. I believe it’s all linked to the ignition at the end of the day. So if I had to take a guess, I’d link a wire from the “BAT” spade on the distributor to the alternator

On your alternator there is a plug-in. One side of your plug-in has a thicker red wire coming from the positive terminal on your battery. The other side is where you want to run your second wire. And that one, if I’m thinking right, will be from the alternator to the BAT on the distributor. Then to test it to see if it even works, I would just start the car up, let it run for a while and then unplug the positive terminal of the battery. If it stays running (and obviously assuming the alternator is good) then it’s all working fine. If it dies then… we’ll, I’m wrong lol. But it should keep running if you unplug the battery. But like I said if your harness is bad already and your trying to make the car nice I 100% recommend the American auto wire kit, it’s a bit pricier but way way worth the money. They give you all of the factory style connectors and drawn out directions and all of the wires are factory color coded and labeled every six inches. It’s pretty hard to mess up

@@eazyduzit5309 badass! Of all the cars I’ve had I’ve never had to fix much wiring other than tail lights and crap like that. The more I look I think the factory harness isn’t as bad as I though there’s just a few engine compartment spots like the main lead wires the driver headlight. Luckily a ton of the wiring was covered in plastic wire looms. Only issue I’ve got is someone tried replacing the ignition switch that tore of the shaft the cylinder goes in the new on jammed right up as well. So I’ll probably just hook up a push button/toggle setup.

@@eazyduzit5309 definitely if we find more wiring issues I’ll take your advice on that kit, the Painless kits look like a headache haha. The bracket they have on the engine the alternator is upside down so can’t see the wiring for shit and I didn’t see a wire chilling to run back to the battery. I need to just buy a stock bracket since I need new belts anyway. I don’t know why they did some of the things they did haha

The button itself doesn’t need to be grounded, you’ll just need a wire from the positive side of the starter to the other side of the starter. That completes the circuit and makes the starter spin. Then for the ignition your set up is probably different, I doubt you have an hei distributor so if you run a switch for the ignition it would probably be a bit different

Thank you! The goal is to send power to the ignition coil. If you could run a wire from the positive end of the battery to a switch, then another wire from the switch to the positive side of the ignition coil, then it’ll get spark to the plugs

@@eazyduzit5309 thanks for the follow-up. Will do

So on the distributor where it says BAT there is the female end to the spade connector, looks like a small metal rectangle. All you would need to do is pinch the male end of the spade connector to your switch wire, then plug it right into the female end on the distributor. It’ll plug right in, hopefully that helps out a bit!

You’ll just want to send power from the positive terminal of your battery straight to the BAT plug in on your distributor. Just a wire straight from the battery to the plug would do it. But you could even run a fuse on that wire as well, so the fuse would blow up before you damage anything. So in your case, I would connect a wire from the positive battery terminal to one end of a fuse, and then have another wire from the other end of that fuse going to your BAT socket on the distributor. Hope that helps! Battery -> fuse -> distributor

@@eazyduzit5309 Thank you for your super speedy reply .. But my concern is that there is no BAT connection on my antique distributor. . But there is a wire on the regulator which looks like it might have been connected to the neg pole of the battery ( or maybe even went up to the ignition switch ) but there no connection on it , so Im not sure where it went.--- ) This connection then goes from the regulator to a connection on the coil ( Nothing is labeled , but maybe I can find a diagram in one of my books.) I am thinking that this connection is analagous to your BAT spade conection ... but Im not sure ..... This car is much MUCH older than you are so I cant expect you to know everything .about every car ever made . but your clear video was very helpful to me

@@edhammond2892yeahhh I’m not too familiar with those old VW’s. But what I can say is that the goal is just to send power to the ignition one way or another. I looked up the wiring diagram for a 64 bug (not sure if that’s what you have or if that applies) but it looks like you should have a wire from your distributor into your ignition coil. Not the short spark plug wire, but a small green one that is supposed to go into the bottom of your distributor. I have a feeling that may be the inlet to send power to. But definitely do more research before you try that! I don’t want to hear that you blew your distributor up lol

@@eazyduzit5309 Thank you for your efforts and very clear way of explaining things. I have also come to the conclusion that the small green wire is important but I need to brush up on ( coil ) fundamentals ------ Im not sure what side to apply the power ( from my switch )------ the end coming out of the coil going down to the distributor . or the other end of the green wire and going into the coil .... You could make a vintage VW video and a million people would learn from it.....

Honestly I’m not too sure about that one, but the goal would be to send power to the ignition coil with a switch. So I’m tempted to say the wire would instead go to the positive end of the coil. You would have a wire from the positive terminal to the switch, then from the switch to the positive end of the coil. The negative end of the coil would have to be grounded or ran back to the negative terminal on the battery

Sounds like a bad starter if it didn't engage the flywheel but still spun

Starter solenoid bad