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This actually accounts for that problem retroactively, if the fronts are installed after install of the cabinet itself. If the issue of building cabinets, true to square, and installed plum and level with proper support is handled, then spacing of fronts becomes a non-issue. It can be achieved in an earlier stage with a jig.
It also works when you have the cabinet laying on its back, and you can put all the fronts on at the same time. Double sided tape instead of screws in case the owner changed their minds on the hardware.
When you build cabinets you seldom know what hardware will be used , it’s always done in the installation on site . Using two 23 gage pin nails to temporarily hold the door while you pull it out to screw it from inside gives you perfect spacing and no holes for hardware. The hole you drill is 5 mm giving you a 16 heavy play if adjustment’s are needed and believe me , they are always needed.
@@knotallthere66it is strange that the other rows all have continuous grain and that one does not. Probably just material contraints where the face sizes didnt work with the lumber he had.
Hey man, I don’t know if you read comments at all or what. Maybe you don’t have time, understand that, or maybe just don’t GAF, either way. I really appreciate your videos, tips, humor and time you “give” us. Thank you.
Cherry is one of my favorite woods to work with. I did an entire kitchen countertop out of figured cherry. I ended up having enough scrap left over to build a full size dining table top for myself afterwards.
This method also only works if you never intend to move any of the drawers around, either intentionally, or by accident, since every drawer will be unique to the position you started this method with. You should consider numbering the drawers to make it easier in case they are all taken out someday.
@@dashriprock5720 Not true. If you used jigs or blocking to determine the spacing between drawer slides AND faces, by definition they would all be the same. The issue comes up when you define a separate jig for the front that is different from the jig you used to offset each drawer.
No you don't. It doesn't matter if there's 1/4" of drawer front above the drawer box or 1/2"..ws long as the fronts are spaced the same you don't notice
@GageDrums I know what you're saying. It will still look great from the outside. I personally get bothered when I open and see the faces off by more than an inch, from a rough center of the actual draw. You can only see it when you open the draw and you're looking at it.
I like 'em because they're manufactured to have a very consistent thickness, so if you have a preferred brand you can measure a couple of cards with a decent pair of digital calipers and potentially get accuracy down to 3-4 thou in your shims.
That's a sweet idea, man. Playing cards in particular are a smooth move, since they're available almost everywhere.. AND... cheap and easily replaceable!
I love it! But I don't have the luxury of being able to drill through the face of the... face. Because homeowners are lazy and don't pick out hardware until the last minute. And by then, we've already had to schedule the install.
looks pretty ,BUT for how long ,I bet in less than a year at least one of those front faces will fall off ,especially if you have kids ,two screws are not enough to hold ,and also if moved from original position everything will be messed up you would have to drill two new holes on the frame right next to old two ...sorry but that is just reality :)
Try cut the draw front in one large panel. Then mark each individual front equal spacings and cut across, taking more off if application of edging. Then screw in place from back, this with give grain matching. 🅰️🤪
Better off with double sided tape or something quicker. The best is 5/16 hole and use a pan head you’ll get 1/8 of adjustment. Because when you move that flimsy euro style cabinet from that flat bench the fronts will not be in the same spot. Not to mention most guides have play so not opening and closing the drawer a couple times will most likely make the offset as well
Remove the horizontal spacers below the drawer face once you have screwed it on through the front. The screws can sometimes go a little squish, and raise the drawer behind up a tiny bit so that when you remove the spacer, the drawer drops a couple of mm and throws off your next spacers.
This guy is great but if your faces are slightly different then pulls end up being off. I use double stick tape and put the pills in after cuz I ain’t that good.
This only works too if you have all your measurements down perfect to the mm make sure all your spacing is the same your draw fronts are the same and you’ve done the right math so it’s not as easy as you make it look a lot goes into a method like this
Where can I get the drill countersink tool as I’ve asked a many a RU-vidr but nobody will say or put myself in the right direction I have loads of drill bits and countersinks but it means having two or more drills on the go the thing is I’m in Scotland 🏴 many 🙏 thanks if you can help me kind regards from Scotland 🏴 have a wonderful day
@@jamessonke4411 toe kick, out of level floors. You'd have to make a platform and there would be some shimming involved. Not worth the trouble. On site you're better off doing the double sided tape method for your first row.
