A loose harmonic balancer wallowed out a keyway in the crankshaft of a 4 bolt 350 in a 3 ton GMC I had. I brazed in the key with the engine still in the truck and filed it off smooth where the salvaged harmonic balancer went on without a wobble and I never had a problem with it.
I love that Hi-tack but it sure makes a mess with the strings. Also, if you ever screw up and have to take it apart you will 100% need a new gasket lol. That stuff sticks real good. Looking great, Pete.
use locktite thread sealer on All the head studs. This will seal tose going into the water jackets and will keep the others from rusting together and provide the lubricant for accurate torque. BTW use same on light torque bolts to semi lock them in place so they dont vibrate loose.
Thanks Pete.Glad to see you didn't peen the sides of the wood ruff key with a pointed punch. We could get away with that at a sawmill but your engine parts are a lot less accessible if a problem develops there again. Plus we always had the night shift/weekend to go back and replace the parts. Sometimes (wink)
Hi Jim, I think we've all done that once or twice...dimple the key and coat it with red loctite. I know I've gotten by with keys on the baler doing that until I had time to fix it right.
@@JustaFewAcresFarm Hi Pete thanks for the reply. I like the green better. To me red is just a thread locker, where as the green is made for holding cylindrical objects in place. Thought maybe some one used it on that seal you were trying to remove. :) Bye the way really enjoy your channel.
Daily I come by here and when I see you've posted a new video, the kid inside me is almost as excited as when I'd used to watch cartoons on Saturday mornings!!! "Oh boy!!!, it's time for another PETE SHOW"!!!!! ;o)
Hey Pete, What is the socket that you are using to install the head bolts? I've never seen that before.... I've always used two head nuts against each other to place studs in... Thanks! Looking Good!
I'm a terrible mechanic. I don't understand how you, and other mechanics remember where all the little bits and pieces go when you're putting something like this back together. Seriously, how do you keep it all straight? I've thought about videoing the disassembly so I can review where everything goes when I try to put it back together.
@@Single70s yes this engine is unique starts on gas and just idles. When warm enough there is a lever that one moves that increases compression and in gauges the diesel fuel shutting off gas it operates on diesel only. I don't have much knowledge on it only what I have learned from Pete it's cool.
You learn so much from your dad. My dad was born in 1910, often I think how did he know so much.To all who still have your dads go give him a hug and tell him how much you love and appreciate him. I also miss him very much.
My dad passed away in 2017,he was 63..He always wanted a Farmall Cub,well a year before he passed away he bought his dream Tractor a Farmall Cub.He gave it to me,and I'm in the process of gathering everything I need to completely redo the Tractor. I want to make it look like new,because that's what he wanted to do.I wish he was still here to help me with it,but I know he will be here in spirit.
If you need help with keyway.. I can make a new one.. Or lathe a new shaft. Our machine shop usually makes things for aerospace... So any gear, flywheel, or shaft that needs to be made is a piece of cake. Made a couple replica D spoke flywheels last year about this time.
Great restoration series. Nothing better than seeing another classic Farmall being brought back to life. Really liked how you explained using the gasket sealant on the oil seal edge. Thought I was the only one that did that.
Fantastic presentation Pete. Every time I form a question in my mind it seems you answer it in the very next statement. The sign of a natural instructor. Thumbs up!
Great video on your assembly and one of life's lessons hitting some roadblocks such as the worn keyway, but I have no doubt you will triumph. Looking forward to the engine firing up once again. Long live the MD.
With the distributor drive just buy a bigger key and file it down until you have a tight fit. I have done it with warn chansaw flywheels and it works well.
When you came to wiring up the bolts, didn't someone send you a set of lockwiring pliers a few weeks ago? Looking at the engine hoist, I'm guessing that was home-made?
Excellent video Pete :) also yes seen mean about head studs my late Dad 1963 McCormick International B414 Desiel motor 40 hp 156 Cubic Inches 4 cylinder studs for head never got changed too , 1970 International 624 A 60 hp Desiel motor 206 Cubic Inches size 4 cylinders head studs were okay too and 1978 International 724 B 72 hp 265 Cubic Inches size 4 cylinders motor head studs did have changed because original guy had before we got it motor overall did bad job on head also block resurfaceing machine job but by file instead and both head plus block were not 90'degrees straight and bolts had broke threads inside top block also we got motor rebuilt plus fuel pump screw up ! Then found block was crack top to bottom top oil pan in middle of block on number 2 also 3 cylinders also one piston line crack bad so had find new block at junk yards of tractor salvaged yard of better one ! Brand new block was pricey in big dollars and used block work fine then after full rebuilt plus nice price on used block ! Took little time longer rebuilt but was okay to because did Winter Season months when farm operations slowed down in 1995 year!
Let me just say that Pete are doing a great job with your RU-vid career how long did it take you to get where you are because it would be good to get a estimate of when I might get their
We had a really old Ford that we used for light work and grading a rock drive on some property we own but couldn’t find anyone who could fix its problem so had to sell it to someone who could work on it himself. My husband just not a wrench guy.
I am thinking like setting up dies here, but us the wear mostly on one side of the key way? If so, it might be possible to put some small tight welded spots on that side of the key, then mill or surface grind them back down to the correct new dimension. Maybe these could be done on both sides of the standard woodruff key. Just a thought...haven't ever tried that on a key myself.
I rebuilt the engine on a 1952 ford 8N. It’s like stupid easy compared to your dual gas / diesel!!!!!!!! I’m very impressed with you knowledge and skills!!!!
A few videos back you received a strange looking set of pliers. They are safety wire pliers used mostly in aviation. They are used to twist wire like you did on the oil pump. Put the two wire ends in the jaws and lock them. Then you can pull on the piece that comes out and it will twist your wire tight.
You might consider contacting Abom79 for help with the timing gear shaft. He is a machinist with spray welding capabilities and occasionally collaborates with other RU-vid creators on projects. I think you would enjoy his content as you both have some of the same nerve endings. Thank you for providing interesting and informative content, even the Dad jokes!
We used to hammer the woodruff key into the slot... it is normally mild steel, so much softer than the hardened shaft. We would use a small ballpeen hammer which tends to expand the key by deformation both outside and in... then the wear is taken up by the expanded key.. a lot cheaper an option than getting new keyways milled into the shaft and gear.
I'm slowly making me dreams come true , city boy urban farming now! Country Man farming in the future! - Thanks for the support, RU-vidrs! I hope to grow and show and much as I can on the way! Much love
Ya know...I was going to ask you a question about the stud extractor/installer. But like a good instructor, you answered it before I could. Excellent video Pete. Thanks.
It's always fun when people give me crap for running gas tractors. While they may be less frugal with fuel (and not as cool). They sure are easy to work on and find parts for. Keep up the good work Pete!
I don't think a light coating of oil on the threads is going to crack a block, and it ensures the studs go in without binding. Typically the entire hole is not threaded, leaving a well at the bottom. As long as the holes are cleaned beforehand, you're good to go.
@@JustaFewAcresFarm I just wanted to let you know! I’m a transport truck mechanic in Canada. Engine rebuilding is something I’ve done lots! I would just hate to see you finish the tractor and have a block crack from hydraulic lock. Although usually it will crack when you’re torquing it down. But I would imagine with heat and vibration it could potentially crack later on. That’s very high pressure in a localized area! Thanks for what you do and the level of class you bring to farming and RU-vid!
What do you plan on doing with your MD once complete that you can't do with your 504, 656, H, Super C, etc? Anything specific or just use it as a back up?
Pete,glad to see things are moving,well,along,but you and I know,stumbling blocks will be! I feel that snug feel is a definite plus,timing will be accurate,plus it’s the right thing to do,I listen to others in my classic ford club,so many don’t mind fixing some things twice. I’ve learned long ago to take the time or make the time.see ya next vid.
Remember the 2 plier-looking tools a viewer sent you? Those are safety wire twisters. They are great & make the twisted safety wire look professionally done :-) Your channel is one of my favorites!
