Thank you for sharing a video of the H2 extruder with us. Regarding the clicking sound, the engineer fine-tuned the gap between the parts so it can make the fitness between the parts more compatible. Later we will further optimize it and improve the stability.
Can you tell us about the version 2 that is out now? What were the modifications? How can we be sure what we are getting? For instance Amazon has several sellers with the H2 but it is not clear which are the newer version in most cases. If we get the old version, do you swap parts under warranty?
I have two of them. One early, the other after the gear manufacturer change. Both work a treat. They had to completely get rid of their old gear manufacturer in March 21 because they were delivering parts that were out of spec. After moving to a new manuf with a new process they have had everything sorted.
Got tired of waiting for the Hermera to come back on the market. Then came across the H2 with the bonus of a huge weight saving. Installed it on my new build core xy. Some minor install issues but it has worked perfectly since with PLA, PETG and TPU. Love the manual feed wheel
@@cda32 I bought the BIQU months ago. As murphy would have it, the Hermera came back in store about a week later. At the time I got the BIQU I had been waiting for months for the Hermera.
@@biqu7927 thank you for making awesome products. I can’t wait to use the H2 on my Ender 5 Plus with your SKR 1.4 turbo board running Klipper! I have a microcenter store that is local by me and they have the H2 units in stock. Is there a way to tell if those are the newer, improved versions of the H2? Thanks!
@@biqu7927 Will there be a H3? maybe with single handed nozzle change and maybe a liquid cooled version? watercooling is one of the only things i miss on both the Hemera, and the H2, as an option. I would almost buy a Trianglelab Matrix LC because it's the only Hemera-like thing with watercooling, but it's heavier than even the Hemera so i wouldn't buy it.. If a H2/H3 water cooled version would come out i would probably instantly buy it.. infact an appropriate name would maybe be a H2-O cause of watercooled version?
Those types of spring washers are for preloading, not to prevent coming loose from vibration. A _very_ common misconception. With long term vibration and movement (like on a 3d printer head) they'll eat into both the screw and plate, and sprinkle tiny metal shavings where you don't want them. For this purpose, with small fasteners and fairly little torque and mass involved, nylon locking nuts would do much better if the assembly can accommodate a nut (doesn't work with threaded blind holes). Just remember that their function is heavily deteriorated after undoing/removal, so nyloc nuts are considered one-time-use disposables.
i have the h2 running on the ender 3v2 and it is an amazing piece of tech. I saw videos of the binding, so I opened it beforehand, had a look at it and lubed the gears. no binding. also my motor was put apart differently. my plug was rotatet to the upper side and I did not need to change the direction of the motor. Printed a lot of PLA and TPU with it, but needed to adjust the esteps a bit higher. But i still print at the low speed the cura profiles give for the ender 3. I might up them and have a look!
I had similar issues with the H2 after completely disassembling and reassembling it. The cause was a slightly misaligned stepper motor. After the stepper motor was loosened, precisely realigned and re-attached, everything went perfectly.
Judging by the shirt, you like jimmy at the least but probably have a sim setup. If you have a sim setup, it would be cool to see a video or mini series about printed parts for sim rigs/sim racing. Either way, your videos are great as usual 👍
The V2S is now $50 from their store, did some adjusting which completely solved clicky retractions and smooth feed. INSANE value, and for that money you have to assume some manual input for it to be perfect
Split type lock washers don't actually do anything. That's why you don't see them in automotive or industry anymore. All they do is provide a false sense of security. Best thing to do is use threadlocker.
Was thinking the same, they work if you open them and let them "bite" both the surface and the bolt when screwing down. They are useful with softer bolts on aluminum
@@andy_liga they actually aren't useful in any situation. There's been a lot of tests done on them and they simply don't work. Even modifying them doesn't do anything. The reason is by the time the washer can "bite" into the material the fastener has already begun to loosen.
Yes, even NASA points this out in their Fastener Design Manual (ntrs.nasa.gov/citations/19900009424 ), PDF page 13: "The lockwasher serves as a spring while the bolt is being tightened. However, the washer is normally flat by the time the bolt is fully torqued. At this time it is equivalent to a solid flat washer, and its locking ability is nonexistent. In summary, a Iockwasher of this type is useless for locking"
Thank you! As an engineer it kills me whenever I see these. They are nothing more than a standard washer with a fancy slice at best and a complete waste of material at worst. Pretty much the only kind of lock washers that do anything are "Nordlocks" but those are expensive and you may as well just use thread lock especially if you can't torque the fastener to spec due to material concerns.
It's incredible. I attended a few engineering lectures almost 15 years ago and even back then they taught that these washers don't do anything. NASA figured it out by 1990 and yet there are still people out and about recommending them.
My Hemera's all have that click sound during retraction, I have 6 of those. A few months ago I bought 3 H2's, they all were bad, returned them.. maybe I will order another one to see if I get a good one this time, I really love the form factor of these extruders.
all my h2s click on retraction one binds up on the thumb wheel but prints okay one turns smooth but still clicks bad on retraction my only hemera is rock solid
@@420247paul Hi, the engineer fine-tuned the gap between the parts so it can make the fitness between the parts more compatible. Later we will further optimize it and improve the stability.
I am still waiting for my BX, Europe is still not delivered, my order form dates from the end of September ... 2020, that is to say more than 260 days. If my printer is delivered, I will get the first version of the H1, so I can do a few things with it for a while - Thanks for the info and sharing.
@@Mattew64Games Hi, sorry to keep you waiting so long. We have been negotiating with the logistics provider but GLS does not give a reply. The overseas warehouse is also checking it. Once there are any updates, we will inform you.
I ordered a second HR2 along with the original one offered with the Kickstarter BIQU BX. The original one also suffered the thumbwheel jam and I contacted BIQU support. They instructed me to open up the extruder and detach the stepper drive to see if anything was loose. Nothing was loose but there was evidence of one of the gears binding against the case (lots of aluminium filings) . I took photos and sent them to BIQU. They are sending me a replacement gear set. My guess is that the tolerances on either the gears or the case casting or both are not tight enough. I must say that the response from BIQU was brilliant...within 1 day of my first query. A further issue was with an all metal heatbreak (titanium). I had a number of blockages when using this with silk PLA. I've gone back to a standard heatbreak with Capricorn insert and problem is solved.
Received mine today. Can confirm the suspicion that the gears have less tight tolerances. My h2 works great and has not jammed. Clicking sound on retraction is audible but not annoying.
Hi, the engineer fine-tuned the gap between the parts so it can make the fitness between the parts more compatible. Later we will further optimize it and improve the stability.
I have this kit and I would only recommend it to an advanced user. I had to work out a few issues with it on my own, and design my own solution for a belt tensioner and electronics case. also, I had a few QA issues with it but it was an early production unit.
@@natanelbenzaki3071 Hi, if you still feel like you need support for your IDEX Kit, we’d love to take a look into any issues you’re experiencing, so we can quickly resolve them. Please feel free to send an email to support01@bigtree-tech.com.
@@biqu7927 Thanks for your reply, glad to see you are trying to expand to other means of communication with costumers. I have received all the support I needed from the support team and Tony BTT at Facebook messenger. Still waiting for a few replacement parts at the moment to get it working properly. I ould still recommend this kit but only to an advanced user capable of modding it and the printer.
Bought mine six months ago, exactly same issues, after a lot of hassle, they sent me another set of gears. It works, but I’m not impressed by the consistency. I haven’t been able to hit 80mm/s comfortably, but you’re much more experienced in tuning, so I’ll keep trying.
Yes, it was disappointing to see him use a mounting system that isn't available to the average Joe. I'm mounting one to an Ender 3 v2 clone (Voxelab Aquila) right now, and it is pretty fiddly. I can see why he'd want to take the easy way out with the Exchange system, but dang... a bit of help working through mounting for us regular guys would be great.
@@petercallison5765 It is a lot of printer for the price. IMO, it's one of the best Ender 3 clones around. Right out of the box, it is a very capable printer, and is easily upgraded as your printer skills grow. I've since upgraded it with dual Z axis motors, a BiQu H2 extruder/hotend combo, two POM Z axis lead screw nuts (yup, POM is an upgrade over brass), flexible Z axis couplers, adjustable Z axis motor mounts to perfectly straighten out the Z axis, a BLTouch, and a dedicated Raspberry Pi for OctoPrint. Next will be a magnetic bed with PEI print surface, primarily to reduce the weight of the Y axis for higher speed. If you enjoy tinkering, for less than half the price of a Prusa 3, you get all the features and print quality of the Prusa. I have a bit less than 400 bucks into my setup. I've enjoyed it so much that I'm already planning on purchasing a second and third.
One of the things massively overlooked when comparing the hemera is how thin the heatbreak is. This allows for much better thermal transfer and basically eliminates clog when using proper retraction. Another thing is the filament path length. The hemera is the shortest by quite a bit. I know the hemera is a lot heavier than the other extruders but with input shaping / Resonance Compensation its really not as much of an issue. I have a tool changer which has a heavy as hell gantry in comparrison and moves bloody fast and it blows any other printer ive ever seen out of the park. And thats not because of the rigidity of the tool changer (imo its not even that rigid) its due to how accurate the extrusion is with the hemera.
Do you mean the hemera has a thinner heatbreak? Or the B2 is thinner? Though mechanically fragile, thin heatbreaks reduce thermal transfer, and thus a sharper temperature gradient. Ideally, you want all the heat to be contained within the heat block, and no heat is transferred out anywhere, in which case a heat break is not necessary. However, since the heat block cannot be floating in mid air, there needs to be a heatbreak to hold it in place. Alternatively you have something like a mosquito where the heatsink and mechanical support are isolated, with the heatbreak can be made as thin as possible, and the mechanical support not caring about the temperatures.
Just a bit of a tip for your suggestions, spring washers do nothing. Better using some moderate strength threadlocker if you are worried about seizing. If doing so I would use torx head fittings to prevent rounding off upon removal.
I won one set on a FB livestream and it's clearly from the bad batch. I'm still waiting for the second set of replacement part since a new gear set did't solve the problem.
A year down, I have the H2 V2 500c installed, zero binding issues installed on CR10 V3, there is still a clicking noise on retraction/ un-retraction but I think that is due to the all metal gearing they are using, honestly though, this is a small price to pay for an all metal hot end that is now fitted with a copper/ nickel finished heat block and copper heat break. Now, for BLTouch.
So, clicking; doesn’t that mean that the extruder is missing steps. Or can’t drive/move the extruder gear. Probably that does not cause as much of a problem in retraction except for maybe more string. If there is a tension adjustment try that. In Simplify3d with my OMG DM1 extruder. I have retraction set to about 0.5mm. I hope that there is no clicking in forward extrusion/flow? I am using an OMG DM1 extruder and it worked pretty good for a month and a half until it broke. Bearing broke from one of the 2 main gears. But I printed a lot maybe 50+ big parts from it until it broke. I wonder if I need to add Gear oil from time to time and what type. I have been research a bit but have not found a good video on gear oil for extruder in particular. Any suggestions? Brands and weight. Thank You. P.S. I think for now I am going to get another OMG DM1 so I can finish my project before trying another extruder.
The H2 is only 30 grams heavier (210 vs 180) than the stock end on my creality CR6-SE and I'm quite curious as to how well it'd perform, though I think it might be wise to install it on my backup (JGAurora A3) first to give it some test runs. Absolutely love your detailed explanations of how you set it up, the challenges you faced, the steps you took to overcome them, it all adds up into a very well-presented video that feels somewhere between a casual chat with a friend, and a professional instructional video from official sources!
Hmmm... the only issue I could see with the CR6 SE is the fact that replacing the hotend with the H2 would lose the CR6's autobed leveling system, and the CR6 doesn't have any way to manual bed
I got this on an ender 6 it is amazing.. yes it is clacking on retracts .. which is solved by loosening the main nuts and twisting it a little and retightening it .
I'm probably not the first to notice you have zero option to manual feed/retract w/ that 5015 mount. Maybe "ver 2" of the system will prove to be more reliable than the 1st one that locked up.
i received mine 4 weeks ago as they were unavailable from BTT for a few weeks. Still printing off parts from sebazz 's mod for the CR6. I'll let you know how it goes. Will check the gear stiffness also. Great video as always, thanks
@@court2379 the way it moves, especially the bed is very heavy and it causes alot of gravitational movement And it has to sling that heavy bed around with a possibly heavy print on it too so the steppers will run out of torque too yes, but also the moving mass is a large factor in speedprinting in general on a CoreXY machine the bed either doesn't move or only moves on the Z axis, the X and Y are just done by the gantry so there's way less weight of the moving parts and thus on the motors & belts which is way easier to accelerate and decelerate.
@@BH4x0r Sure inertia is an issue, but still can be overcome by power. I wasn't thinking though, the design is inherently a problem. Particularly as the part on the bed gets heavier and changes the dynamics as it prints.
If you get a good one... Mine isn't one of the good ones. Gears don't spin properly, I can't tighten the bolts either, so it keeps squeaking and slowly falling apart. All I can do is to tighten the bolts holding it together a bit while spinning the gears and moving the tension arm, when they lock up I need to back out the screws a bit again, and then use it for a few more days... then I can do it again. Solution from support is just to not tighten the bolts.
I noticed the cooling fan mt blocks the heatsink exit. This is a bad idea so I'm drawing up a larger piece with a window in it to let that fancy heatsink have an exit
I have backed the BX since the start and still haven't got it. Meanwhile, I did order a separate H2 extruder around the same time and it's still sealed in the box. I shudder thinking about what I'll do if both display such poor quality control...
Just got a BIQU H2 on an Amazon flash sale for my Ender 5 Plus, after installing this, a SKR Mini E3 V2, and replacing the useless stock screen with a TFT35, I'm back to printing. Currently 2/3rds throughprinting first calibration cube, and everything seems look great. My extruder gear seems to be on the firmer side, but I roughed it up a bit with the first few filiment loads, and I've yet to get a jam. Going to try some TPU next and asee how that performs.
I do like how they are moving in a smaller form factor but i dont think the price should be that high, even if e3d is heavier and a bit more expensive i feel better ordering from them as i know it will work perfectly, but BTT is moving in the right direction with this, if it was 60 euros i would buy it.
I just checked Kickstarter and it's still available through that route. US$150 will get you one(1) master mount and three(3) tool mounts, plus hardware for mounting onto an MGN12H linear rail.
@@Waltkat huh, I was looking on my phone, even logged in couldn't see any option to buy... will have another look. Thanks Edit: nup still can't see anything to click on to get in on it.
The only issue i have had with my first unit, was a faulty thermistor, which promptly got replaced by BTT. I have yet to install my second unit, but i'm so far, very impressed.
I don't understand why all the complete extrudes neglate the part cooling and coms without it...printing one is not a good option IMO, it should be at least nylon for heat resistance That's what blocking me from buying one, I can go for an orbiter that will sit on the existing hotend, but the fillment path is long compared to this
@@nicholaslau3194 Sure, but I just prefer a complete product that wouldn't require me to print stuff I also see a lot of different duct designs that fails, following by a v2 and so on If they can include that in their R&D that will be better *PLA duct wouldn't work for me, i'm using an enclosure, it will soften in the first 30min, PETG it rated 10c above PLA, so not a big improvement
First one I got for my Ender6 never worked, it looked like the large gear was binding against the housing. The replacement is running fine (after lubrication), but came with one stripped heat-brake grub screw.
Too many printers coming out for reviewers to keep. I have just received the FLSUN Super Racer and the CR10 Smart and there are many more in the pipeline. I may have to do my own reviews for these.
Considering that you lose horizontal print volume in favor of vertical (meaning they essentially cancel each other out), the one advantage this extruder offers would be weight reduction. The one advantage of that is less ringing/vibration at higher print speed. In that case, it doesn't make much sense to print at 80 mm/s. Why not compare different extruder/hotend combination at 100-150 or even 200 mm/s (with sufficient acceleration of course.
Reliability seems a common issue of this extruder. "Design prototype test" had to completly disassemble and clean the gears with a file to make it work properly, and "3dprinting general" had to change the screw of the filament hobbed piece as it was totally stripped and it was not keeping it firm.
keep in mind DPT loves complaining and also disassembled the extruder before printing anything through it and the second one was fine.. while yes other had similar issues once you take it apart and mess with it it kinda goes out the window
I think mounting the part cooling fan like this blocks part of the cooling of the coldblock? This might be a problem when printing at higher temperatures but I am not sure.
Same. All of the competition does, and having to wait for months to get a small, $10 part off of AliExpress is just stupid. Raise the price ten bucks, and include the all metal hot end already.
Love that your wearing jimmers top! Didn't realise your a sim racer or at least a huge Jimmy's fan by buying a top. Would be fantastic to see some content that side of things, or have a separate channel.
So with these gear problems, it's definitely not an option for a serious printer. Your anonymous order shows that BiQU don't care about delivering good products
Hi, user experience is our topmost priority and we would surely like to turn this experience around. Regarding gear problems, the engineers have been optimizing its design. Rest assured, we’re here at your service. We keep trying our best to deliver good products.
Could the motor be replaced with a round Nema 14 motor to drop the weight by another ~50 grams? The square style motors are usually pretty heavy even on nema 14
I still prefer the other one you showed even tho it's worse in a lot of ways purely because it's 140. I'm tempted to make my own extruder with a 20g brushless motor and gears etc. Maybe even a DC motor? I'd use an encoder Stepperonline also has this 50g stepper I wanna try This extruder I'd a bit too expensive for it's it's quality tho sadly
Can you try the Easythreed extruder/hotend combo. It is the lightest smallest direct drive I ever seen and it is only $20. I wonder how it would perform when pushed to its limit.
Hello! After 1 year, we have H2 revo, H2 v2, Creality Sprite and Creality E-Fit. What is your opinion between these 4 models? Is it still worth buying the Biqu or for those who have ender 3 is it better to buy the Sprite or e-FIT?
3:10 Correction, the price is not in euros(€), but British pounds (£). Moreover the price with taxes included is £108, which roughly amounts to $150(USD).
Yhank you for your reaaly interesting video ! How does the H2 works for high flow printing, with a bigger nozzle, such as a 0.6 or 0.8 ? Can it handle such extractions speeds ? Or is the Hemera + Volcano still the most relevant option for this purpose ?
Hello Michael, Appreciated the review. How about a review of the Mellow Lightweight NF-sunrise V6 Dual Drive Extruder for comparison? It looks very nice on AliExpress.
Second this, the NF Sunrise is a really interesting all-in-one BMG style extruder and heatsink with native mounting holes for most Ender/CR gantry plates. Just received mine and going to replace my old ebay direct drive kit on my Ender 3.
Great video, very helpful. I'm trying to install H2 on Longer LK5 pro with marlin 2. When I enter M503 I don't see any current values and M906 returns unknown command. The marlin code is on Github for Longer. Any suggestions for entering current?
So without money being an issue, which one would you purchase. I’m using the ender 3 v2, and would gladly spend the money for the best option. I’m new to the hobby, and always into upgrading. But with so many options, all of them being the best of the best, I’m not sure what’s really worth the money.
I've got a biqu h2 mounted to my ender 5 plus... I cannot get retractions dialed in. I have 5 printers, and on all 5 I have been able to tune retractions to the point of getting perfect retraction torture tests, but with my h2 I can't even get a acceptable quality on retraction. Biqu is sending me all the new parts of the updated h2 so maybe that will fix my problem.
I've had mine for a couple of months now. Happy to see your review. Im not sure if mine was a revised version or not. My biggest problem is similar to yours where is you turn the two main access that clamp the assembly together, the filament lever binds up and doesn't allow the spring to provide any tension on the filament. I have to loosen the bolt considerably to the point I am worried that it will vibrate lose. I think this is a design flaw that needs to be fixed. I've had a lot of trouble with prints failing due to lack of bite on the filament and eventually the extruder grinds a ridge in the filament and then it is really buggered and stops extruding mid print. Also the grub screw heads have started to strip.
