Sorry, tried to comment but something seems to messed up... It's a great basic video for this method and thank you for sharing it. I'm pleased the next generation is keeping these traditional skills alive. I am wondering, as a business, if this much more labor-intensive method of "scribe rule" is worth the effort as compared to traditional (and virtually as old)..." line rule"...methods found in Asia that achieve the same results with organic shapes yet do not require the test fitting nor material handling of scribe rule? Looking forward to seeing more...
Hi The technique relies on measuring the distance between the string line and the oak. I place my pencil behind the string and estimate the distance from the string to the timber. I admit I should have explained this better. Alternatively You could use a ruler to do this then simply read off the measurement. In this case the string is 2mm off the timber. So then I replicate this 2mm off the string when I make a mark the other timber. It takes 2 marks (1 at the top and 1 at the bottom of the timber) then you can draw a straight line between them. Does that explain it? To expand on this idea if the face of the top timber is 2mm off the plumb line at the top and 2mm off the string line at the bottom then the face of the top timber is plumb. Alternatively if the measurements are 1mm and 4mm off the string then the face of that timber is 3mm out of plumb.
So you have a 1mm or 2mm or whatever size pencil and you use this to eyeball the 2mm gap that you talk about in the video? So it's like one pencil width plus a smidge top and bottom and you're good to go?@@PostandBeamUK
