I gotta thank you guys. I just installed 600' of fence in Colorado using this method and it would have taken me 3 times longer the old fashioned way. Thanks for taking the time to do this, you're making the world a better place.
Another trick an old linesman (who had to hand drive a lot of ground rods the days before battery powered tools) taught me, was to have someone pour water around whatever you were driving as it was being driven downward .Still requires muscle but It does speed the driving process up !
The first fence I built had me renting an auger that had a 2 stroke engine like a chainsaw. It didn't really work for me. I got a post hold digger and a spud bar and things went smoothly even in clay soil. That was 40 years ago and the fence is still up in spite of the high winds we have in Colorado. I've built my share of decks which require footers 32" deep to get below frost line. No problem with a post hole digger. All the posts I ever used were 4x4 pressure treated lumber which I doubt you could sink with a driver unless I'm missing something. Hope you sell a lot of them, just not to me.
Yes, you’re missing something. You can sink 4x4s with a driver if you use a pilot bit first. If YT will let me post the link, check this out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ap7UhcEKjn8.html
You guys are making brilliant content! Really helping me understand fencing which I've never done before. If your able to answer this question, even better. How do gas drivers fair through roots?
@@SWiFence very appreciated. Kind of where I thought the answer would be. I'll find a way to make it work and hopefully, only a few repairs in the future 🙏
I build fences for a living and depending on how hard the ground is the auger will dig just as fast as the gas driver will drive the posts in. The time saved comes in not cleaning up dirt and not messing with any concrete. But with that said, a post set in concrete is more sturdy than a post driven into the ground with no footing
Funny, we just tested that theory. Here's the test of the posts in concrete: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_iQnheVwAI4.html Here's the driven posts: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8jWcT17PFME.html (spoiler--driven posts perform better)
@@SWiFence I wanted to see a test of the posts, but what you are showing here seems to just be a repeating failure point for every sample: The plastic fence. If you are gonna do this over, then I suggest identical (steel) posts, and a failure-proof fencing material (perhaps a large plywood panel or a very well built wooden fence). Cool concept though. Also: If you weld some small wings top and bottom before driving, you would get way more rigidity.
My guys went out with a 4 stage post pounder. The post got squished from the pounding at the top? They were pounding 2 3/8 pipe and the tops squished like an accordion. Did they do something wrong? Was it the material. They later ripped the engine off the side -- the metal fatigue on a relatively new post pounder. (It was an inexpensive one less than $400.) but none the less it barely pound in 5-6 post before it was destroyed. I'm wondering if they hit rock and just kept pounding and pounding .... These were 8 ' posts they were setting to 5' height--- so no more than 3' of depth... I was thinking the collar may have been the wrong size for the hammering end... making the post not hit consistently in the same spot. But then as I thought about that I was like-- well that probably would have reduce fatigue on the post... Perplexed...
Yes. I build fences in north Florida. Me and my guys dug and wet set 400 feet of chain link posts (8+1 commercial )in one day. That’s digging all the holes with post hole diggers, and mixing the concrete in a wheel burrow. I would hate digging in Wyoming!!! We did that because of circumstances beyond my control my skid steer with the auger was unavailable.
Come here to south Florida. Coral rock is a tremendous pain. The digging bar bounces up when you throw it down. Pouning a post is impossible it just mushrooms. You need to jackhammer first or use the skid steer auger,
Good demo. I didn't think about pounding the steel post. My area is sandy so I will dig a hole then pound down a few inched to hold then concrete. Now I'm wondering how the fence companies do it around here.
You guys look like a blast to work for, my boss out here is a straight bastard sun up to sundown just down the road in Kearney Nebraska. Keep it up! Makes me jealous
Those automatic ones are nice but not really practical for most, as most people don't have $2,000-$3,000 lying around. I would wet the ground before pounding a post in or do it after a rain. That loosens up the soil alot. I live in Georgia in an area where there is lots of limestone and red clay. I have had to manually dig, pull out rocks and roots, and till over a period of weeks and add soil amendments to loosen it up before I can even attempt to put fence posts in.
I agree, I looked at that and said "hmm, that's gotta be a couple thousand dollars. I don't have that, but what I do have is intruders and I need a fence. So it's going to be me and a digging bar. Thanks for your advice.
Great video! Can you drive a regular square wooden post into that same hard rocky earth? I want to build a wooden fence but I really don't want to dig. I'm in northeast PA and our soil is also full of rocks and clay.
Hmmm, you could try I suppose. We would reach for a postmaster post in that scenario. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cLvM7ijI9zE.html (assuming your rocks aren't a problem)
I saw this pilot hole borer on another video. Maybe they have something like that there, or you can improvise: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ap7UhcEKjn8.html
Loved this so much I had to watch it twice. I'm in Kentucky, an area with heavy clay. Some of our local fence guys argue that driven-only Postmasters will work loose when the soil gets wet and still need concrete. Ring true to you or maybe not? Also, do you need the Postmaster drive cap to pound these, or would a slotted chuck also work fine?
We have heavy clay around us as well and have not run into any problems. One thing to make sure of is that you're getting your correct drive depth of 3'. We use the the Rhino XA with the Postmaster chuck.
Yep, sure can. Pop the extensions off and reconnect the throttle cable. If the handle & throttle aren't lower though, you'll have to compensate for that by raising yourself up higher (or reaching higher).
Hi! These are so useful! How tall do you think a fence could be with postmaster ? I’m planning on setting my posts 4 feet in the ground (I’m up in Canada!) and then build an 8 foot fence. So total 12 feet. I was thinking of welding an extra piece to lengthen the posts from 10 feet to 12.
So I started a fence company in southern Florida, and I’ve dug every hole since forever, which usually isn’t too bad because of the sandier soil. Is driving posts for a chain link fence viable in sandy conditions?
These tests were done in Florida sand: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8jWcT17PFME.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ocr73Lmo9O8.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mc92svvCRFo.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e2YU3K6Sa1M.html
Whatever work glove you've got nearby. We often just reach for a basic safety glove like these: www.swifence.com/service/search/?bs_q=gloves&limit=null&page=1
Where’s the clamshells dude? No sane person digs a fence post hole with a shovel. Post type also affects the pounding rates, so honestly totally agree with you in the beginning. Not even necessary to do THIS video. Montana in the house so I get the garbage digging conditions.
Could you share what ground conditions are not suitable for post driving? I live in the southeastern US in an area with a lot of red clay, I would really like to use a post driver like you showed in this video. Thanks!
You should be fine in red clay. You have to be careful about soil with lots of rocks or sand, as either one of those will give you a loose, shifting soil (you can still drive in sand if you go deep enough).
Depends on how you define better and what your soil conditions are like. We would say it's definitely better in a lot of circumstances because it saves a lot of time. Once you drive the post in it's already in. Once you dig a hole you still have to pour concrete and set it. There are also definitely times where it's better to dig and set. If you've got too many large rocks in your soil, or if your soil is too loose and sandy to hold the post firmly in place.
Witch one will last the longest without tipping over? I know concrete will last a long time if dug the hole right, but how about the post with no concrete? Won't the dirt get loose around the post, and start learning?
Check out our latest video on the channel: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_iQnheVwAI4.html More similar videos coming out that should answer this question thoroughly.
@@SWiFence this one was all set in concrete fun to watch, but I where can I watch the no dig wind test? And got to say thanks for sharing your fence knowledge, it nice to see things done differently. I have 6 years of building and fixing fence, from chain-link fence to cedar fence, and seeing the cool tools I never used that one day will use to new ideas I never seen, thanks and keep on keeping on
If you set it right it's not going to sink on you. Here's a windstorm test we did with concrete: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_iQnheVwAI4.html And one without concrete: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8jWcT17PFME.html
@@SWiFence that makes sense. Like you said different tools for different soil. I live in Ohio and post hole diggers work great... surprisingly I was using a gas powered post digger Saturday and it did worse than the manual diggers (rocks and roots held back the auger)
Dan, my money is on you… in Wyoming! I saw Mark digging a flagpole hole in the sand of Florida. Even with his Minions at his disposal, it was a whole day affair. Soil Conditions do dictate the best method to use… to a certain degree. But, there are others to consider… like access to equipment and physical conditioning. These I think are at least equal in steering your choice of method. Now don’t take this personally but, methinks you might have missed a golden opportunity with the shovel and bar method. I mean Dan, everyone knows that a real man would have used a clamshell digger. It weighs twice as much as a shovel. That means it will bang down into the hole with much more force and only half the effort. Yeah, true it takes twice the effort to lift them but.. you can only throw them half as far into the pasture. Those steps you save when you regain your composure, and trek out to retrieve them, have to go into the equation! So, Dan I’m not convinced that you’ve exhausted the options for putting those posts in the ground. I’m gonna go out right now, grab my clamshell digger and a shovel. Then, I’m gonna lay them side by side in the Gator and haul them out to the barn. There I can dig… through my fishing tackle and retrieve my De-Liar fish scale. Once I weigh the shovel and the clamshell… I’ll know if my precise calculations are in fact, precise… is the shovel only half as heavy as the digger? Armed with that data, I can make a wise decision about which one to use! Because my plan is to gather up my fishing gear, throw it into the canoe and attach its cart to the rear of the Gator. “What about the shovel and the digger?” You ask… well sir, I have no intention to put any posts in the ground today… instead, the heaviest of the two will be used as my canoe anchor and the lightest will be used to dig some fishing worms! Dan, don’t call me lazy… after all you told me to have a good danged day… and it don’t get no gooder than fishin’ from a canoe!
You raise a good point! I don't typically have clamshells on the truck because half the time the shovel and bar do better for me due to ground conditions. We've got some new diggers in the shop that I'll grab and test out in a future video. 👍🏻 I doubt the results are going to be greatly different--but it's worth trying.
where in my area (Reno NV) can I Rent the post master machine and adapter I cant find one and local fence companies wont do the master halco that way, they claim they aren't what they say they are. come do my Fence and prove em wrong.LOL
This is a recurring question and I wish I knew what to tell you. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of places to rent them from. We've looked into renting them out but it's not really feasible with shipping and other factors.
Our sister company, SWI Florida, does post driving all the time in the St. Augustine area. 👍🏻 It all depends on what your individual soil conditions are.
@@SWiFence Tampa Bay here. Roots are my main concern. My slave driver has already had me buy the sakrete... 😂 Subbed & love your videos. Come to Florida. Or at least, be a snow bird.
I was thinking he could have cut ten minutes off his digging time if he would have stopped complaining. I then thought back to every hole I have ever dug and there was always complaining. Conclusion,: complaining is a critical component of digging a hole and cannot be deleted. Because..... science!
Ahahahahahaha! 😑 Actually that's pretty good. 😏 We got a new pair of clamshells in the shop we need to pull out and try. I don't typically carry them on the truck just because things are so hit-and-miss around here the shovel and bar usually do me better. We'll pull them out and give them a shot in a future video. 👍🏻
Lmao I can do a 30 inch hand dig in a minute. Your first mistake was thinking you could dig a hole with a shovel. They are called post home diggets for a reason nonetheless good demonstration on how fast the others are
You'd be shocked which one is stronger. Concrete: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_iQnheVwAI4.html Dirt: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_iQnheVwAI4.html
Not saying that at all. We've used it in Florida with great success. Soil composition is going to determine how deep you need to drive. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mc92svvCRFo.html
How well do LG40 posts that are driven do in high winds with a privacy fence? We live in KS and typical daily wind is 20mph, and the last three days we had 50+. I've replaced a few cedar 4x4's with LG40 8' posts in a bag and half of quikrete at 30" down, but it is a major PITA. I'd rather replace a whole side at once (300' total) and rent a driver (or even manually drive them) over digging and concreting or using crushed rock. Looking for the high wind stability and minimal rusting through issues.
It's not uncommon for us to get 50+ mph winds out here in Wyoming. As long as you get them in here solid it works well for us. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ONA15hJym-k.html We also tested this method successfully in Florida sand: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8jWcT17PFME.html
@@SWiFence Thanks. That's what I figured. Were mainly a clay loam here and dry most of the time except for the every 5 year or so deluge. Like I said, I'd rather pound them in once than auger a tone of holes, clean them out, etc.... Our frost line is right at 30", but I figured without the concrete it wouldn't be an issue either. I can't really go more than 30" deep with the 8' poles and still have the above ground height, so hopefully that would be deep enough.
This was shot first. The post hole diggers don't often work for us in our section of Wyoming, but we did try them in the follow up video since folks were asking. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2uR4VKhp8Cc.html
You use metal posts, how do wood posts fair with the driver? Clients usually work with 3”-4” posts and wondering if it will work well Thanks in advance
