I appreciate that! I really wish I could upgrade but I'm stuck with only 120v in my shop so at this point I'm just saving up for the day when I can upgrade to a big old 12" or 16" jointer!
I must tell you that you are such a joy to watch 😊 I love your attention to detail and your humble attitude. You, sir are a true artist in my opinion...
Hey Jerry, the plans for this blanket chest are now available on my website when you sign up for a membership. I'm also running an intro discount right now, so during checkout just enter the code RU-vid and you'll get $5 off either the one month or three month plan. www.redridge.ca/
Very nice work, Morgan. Like you, I cannot resist breadboard ends and will often indulge myself (and the client) and do Greene and Greene style ones, with ebony or other accent wood splines. I, too, love using my Veritas router plane. It's a very relaxing tool to use.
Really nice job. I'd like to make a Sea Chest (or Seaman's Chest ) similar. dimensions, but with sides and ends sloped -- to say 8-10 degrees -- that will test any dovetail cutting skills when done th right way -- with the pins parallel to the ground!!
Case work is spot on. Don’t really care for the green drawer and leather. Leather liner is an awesome idea, but not right for that project and one I will use sometime. So thank You very much for that inspiration.
You have quite aggressive hand tool skills. That’s not an insult. You obviously get great results so it equals speed. I’d personally have accidents at that pace. Fair play to you mate.
I always notice that when I see the video of myself, I'm still in those early stages where I'm trying to make the tool work rather than letting the tool work. I will admit that I have had one accident where I launched my block plane into the concrete, luckily everything was okay but that was a good lesson in taking lighter cuts and not moving so fast!
@@morganhurst_redridge mate, it’s what works best for you. I let tenon saws use their own weight as I have disston Philadelphia brass backs that have plenty of weight already. I give the Japanese saws a slight press on the pull cut. Just do what you’re comfortable with. I’m surprised your 'just starting out’ with the standard of your work.
I've done a decent amount of research into leather hinges and I've got plans to use them on an upcoming project! The only trick with them is the stability since they aren't solid like a metal hinge.
Very nice, good to see a younger woodworker using hand tools and not all electric. The waxoil did the grain a treat. My only crit would be screwing the base. Those slats need to expand, but you've secured and no expansion allowance. As they're T&G, I would have screwed the last piece with loose fit and 1mm loose on each slat.
As I get more into it, I'm leaning heavily into the use of hand tools. I like the control and the feel of using them but overall they look alot better in the videos! My original plan with the slats was to just screw in the first and last but I ended up making the fit to lose between the pieces. Wood movement won't be a problem though because each slat only has a single screw centered, so the wood can easily expand on either side. I made sure to leave enough room between each piece to let them reach the max potential expansion, the tongue will expand in deeper or the groove pieces will expand over the tongue further.
Beautiful project. I was wondering if cutting the breadboard ends flush with the panel creates issues with contraction during the seasons. The panels will contract more than the ends and it won't be flush anymore. Also is that a rabbeting block plane you are using to trim the tenons? My block plane doesnt reach the base of the tenons.
Yeah, over the year your main panel will sometimes stick past the ends or be slightly inset, this is one of the downsides of breadboard ends but it's really not that big of a deal. I'd highly recommend looking into a rabbet plane, a nice rabbets block plane is good but you could also get a shoulder plan that would do the same thing.
I like the bottom construction of the sliding tray. How did you build it to account for wood movement? I was trying to make something similar but couldn’t figure it out so just veneered plywood.
Being honest, I didn't consider wood movement very much. Since the pieces are about 1 3/4" wide and most are quart or rift sawn, individually they will have negligible wood movement, all together they probably won't all be at full expansion at any given time and if they do they are loosely mounted to the groove in the tray so they can just get pushed deeper into the groove. That's also why I add in the leather, as the pieces expand and contract, gaps are going to show so the more malleable leather can be glued right on and it will stretch and move with the wood. Technically speaking this is not the best way to do this, your method with the veneer is better but in this case it was a fast and efficient use of the materials I had on hand.
Nicely done. Enjoyable video. Thanks for sharing. Out of curiosity, how much time does it take once you have the video to edit it into a RU-vid video? How much faster are you at editing videos now vs. when you first started?
Depends, a video like this is made up of sections of the detailed build series and those videos I can usually do 2-3 in a day. If I just have a bunch of footage that I'm turning into a condensed video that usually takes 1-2 days since there's usually a couple hundred clips to sift through. I've definitely gotten alot more efficient with the editing, for the couple months that I was doing daily uploads I was able to figure out a really smooth rhythm . Before doing the dailys it would take me a full day just to do one build series video.
The problem I've run into in the past when I add in edge profiles to connected pieces before a glue up, is sometimes they don't line up properly afterwards. Especially with a round over, if the two pieces need any adjustment after the glue up you're just going to ruin that round over anyway. By doing it after, you're working with a finished reference surface where you've already made all the adjustment to make any joining edges meet up.
What! No Kreg pocket holes! What kind of woodworker are you anyway! By the way; your shop does not look like a suburban kitchen. You need to remedy that also!
My pocket hole jig is "broken" otherwise I definitely would have used it, since it is the superior form of joinery! Don't worry, my Ikea kitchen cabinets are coming next week so hopefully I can get my shop looking right and then I'll be a true woodworker!
Beautiful chest!! Not to sound preechy, but you need to wear a dust mask, you're gonna mess up your lungs pretty good using all those power tools without a mask (or at the very least dust collection).
Trust me I'm very careful about wearing a mask, using dust collection and running my air filter to keep myself safe in the shop. If there is a specific point in this video where you think I'm doing something unsafe let me know the timecode so I can correct myself in the future.
27:12 sander no dust mask, 27:44 router no dust mask...those fine particles will get you over time. Again it's constructive criticism, hope you don't take it the wrong way
With the orbital there's no need for a mask because I've got it hooked up to the shop vac and that pulls the majority of the dust, I also have the airflow of my shop set up so that any particles that end up in the air get pushed away from me then pulled along that back wall into an air filter. I will agree with you about the router, definitely should've had a mask on there. I apologize if I came off as aggressive, I get so many of these comments and the response I gave before is a generic one I wrote up to counteract the spam comments, so I do appreciate you taking the time to point out those two clips.
