Excellent instructions, especially with as much emphasis on safety as on getting the job done right. But IMO the end seemed to be a bit more rushed than the rest of the video, leaving me with the same burning question that has always puzzled me about felling a tree - the position of the backcut relative to each of the 3 types of notches you mentioned. I've seen some experienced tree pros cut the backcut slightly above the horizonal or flat part of the notch and others cut it right in line with it. What is the best position for the backcut in your experience? And does that apply to all 3 types of notches? thanks much!
Just my opinion. Take a look at video 'Why an angled back cut is dangerous and unecessary when hinge cutting a tree' especially starting at 4:45. The top part of a standard notch is an angle and you never want the tree to be able to slide off of it. Back cutting too low could do this. Think of the fibers of the tree running vertically like strands of spaghetti. You want to have an inch or two (more on bigger trees) of fibers that are not cut connecting the top and bottom of the tree. I believe that the back cut should be a bit above the flat part of the notch (an inch or two, more for bigger trees). This provides a step to help the tree from falling back. There are plenty of videos that give an opinion on the exact amount. You could cut through the fibers connecting the top and bottom of the tree if you cut the backcut too high towards the notch and still have wood between the cuts. A falling tree wants to rotate around its center of gravity and the bottom could seem to jump up and smack you in the head as it rotates around. There are RU-vid videos of this happening especially when people cut thick branches with a single cut. There is definitely a sweet spot. You want a step AND connecting fibers. Wedges can be used to keep your chainsaw from getting trapped when making the horizontal backcut. And provide leverage to tip the tree over and help break the hinge (connecting fibers) as the tree falls. When the notch closes the hinge snaps.
I suggest that the backcut is in line with and on the same level as the apex of the face notch. The "hinge" of the notch should work just like the hinge of a door; control throughout the entire range of motion. If the backcut is placed too high (above the apex of the notch) or too low then there may be inconsistent fiber bending and breaking. If your concern is the tree falling backward & possibly "pinching" the chainsaw bar, then use a wedge(s) to prevent that.
My forestry books all say to make a horizontal back cut level with the lower notch cut. This is for safety, as the tree can throw itself backwards if the hinge isn’t strong enough
Thanks for these informative videos. Unfortunately the primary message these and others I've watched are conveying is to get some professional instruction before I attempt anything. But better to figure that out than to end up dead. Thanks again.
Overall, this is a good instructional video but as a beginner I would not trust all the procedures shown. Some instructions are vague and not well explained/justified.
Yes, and possibly less depending on the size of the tree. "Flexing" and "bending" a 2 inch thick hinge takes alot of force, Yes! Your mechanical advantage system and/or wedge set-up ALONG with the proper angles for each will be very important.
Where did you come up with the suggestion of a hinge 5% of the diameter, for trees over 25"... never heard that one before and strongly disagree with the thin hinge hypothesis...
Daniel, sorry it has taken a while to respond. I spoke with our experts. The bigger the diameter of the tree, the longer the hinge and the more holding wood you have. In Europe, they suggest the hinge be 7% of the diameter, regardless of tree diameter - also a reasonable compromise. Too much hinge wood and the tree will not fall when the strap is released. You would have to push or pull it.
Ellen, the intro states "the 5-step falling plan is a safe and effective way to take down a tree"... unfortunately there are just far too many variables to make such a broad statement.... This video makes no mention of the variables and the times that these steps will not work... As such it is very misleading and potentially dangerous, which is only made worse by your credentials that would seem to give it some authority...
Daniel, I head up an eight person team that has worked together on saw safety for over 5 years. We have a weekly saw safety newsletter, created videos, and held over 2,600 hours of training for over 1,000 workers in the public and private sector. Our instructors are professional trainers from North American Training Solutions. Our credentials are strong and we know what we are talking about.
0:45 - It baffles me that, in these American safety videos, it seems that the pain and suffering caused by accidents often take second place in respect to loosing work time and money because of them...
Gloves add little protection against a chainsaw cut and if both hands are on the chainsaw (as they should always be) then gloves aren't really necessary for operation. I would suggest that gloves are worn whenever servicing or performing maintenance on the saw. I have lost more flesh & cut myself more times sharpening a saw (without gloves) than doing anything else in tree care!
