The Floyd Rose FRX is NOT a Piece of SH*T?! 

I was researching this tremolo system and saw your opinion and was like "ohh well.... Waste of time and money" 😂; Thanks for being honest and seeing the pros of this product! 🙏🇺🇸

When your first video came out on the FRX I watched some others on RU-vid. It seems the FRX is a brilliantly engineered system with some flaws in the design. I own many guitars with all types of trems but I never saw own of these in person. I would love to tinker with one but not at this price!

Yep, I am thoroughly enjoying the saga of the FRX. 😊 I can understand why moving the bar back and forth would break-in the metal edges that contact on the assembly. Anyway, Jake, I hope all is going well...🎉 Very best wishes to y'all, John...

Hey man, I've got this floyd and with over a year of fiddling with it i finally got it to return to zero every time. See the pivot posts? The texture is fucking coarse and the knife edge catches on these ridges, thats the root of all evil! I polished them smooth with some 400 grit sand paper and now its returning to perfection every god damn time.

You definitely make me laugh. 😂 looking back is always hindsight.

More drama in the latest episode of Floyd Follies. Thanks Jake!

One thing to watch out for. There is a small metal clip held by a small screw that sits behind the thumbwheel under the bridge. Where the plastic screw goes. That clip can come bent and rubs between the 2 bridge pieces causing the tuning problems. I believe it sits vertically between the 2 bridge pieces. You might be able to straighten it without taking off the bridge. I took mine out and now it stays in tune. I have it installed on a Gibson Flying V. It looks better on a V. You can get lower action using a guitar with a flat surface. I was able to get my action down real low.

I have bought FRX chrome in 2017 year and instaled it into Gibson Flying V. It was very expensive for me - bridge system and shipping to Europe from Florida 343,76$. I have the same problem with it as you. FRX doesn`t stay in tune after pulling down, pulling up and relesing the bar. I`ve made some mods with it. I`ve sharpened edges with dremel grinder and put some grease on edges, I`ve repleced sprig and the main screw on a new one. The problem has not gone away. There is still about 1/4 # difference in tune betwen bar down, relese and bar up, relese. Frustraiting.

Thank you for your video on the frx. Mine didn't come with a spacer for the string lock. I can probably make one. I was wondering if you know where I can find one? Or should I just file the nut so the strings fit better. It's not level with the nut. As of now I used a slab of leather. Thank you for your help

does it go back to 0 with out the plactic part

The only thing I had to do to a Gibson SG is notch out the bridge pickup ring the width of the saddles once I got it set up. I left off that ball screw at first, got everything parallel to the body, by adjusting spring tension, and later installed it, and now I love it. Mine is metal btw. I hated that string lock at first also, but once I thought about how it is made to fit various model guitars, it really can't be made any different. From the problems you have described about the trem contacting the body, I think it is because the angle of the neck to body is a lil bit different on various guitars. That can only be fixed if you reset the neck, or route out a pocket for contacting trem parts. I love mine, now, but it would be extremely disheartening if it contacted the body to get the right action height.

also, tighten the spring more and it will return to the correct tuning every time. Lastly, there are two different options for the string locks above the nut. There are two different thickness options for different break angles on the head stock. Great review though. ty!

I got one of these last year and stuck it on a gibson sg, and all of the issues you describe applied to me too. Same installation hassles. Same issue with the action-the spring has literally gouged a hole in my flame maple top and the action is still way too high and not well intonated. Same issue with it not returning to 0 on the pull up, basically have to end any movement of the bar on a downpush or im like a semitone higher than i tuned it. Its better than nothing vos honestly i dont want to play without a floating trem but, if i went thru this again i would get something with the normal floyd rose such as the sg diablo or just a different guitar.

I have one on my Studio and one on my Zakk Wylde Epi Les Paul. I keep the spring pretty tight and removed the detent ball. The Studio also has a Dtuna with it, (can dive only). I have ZERO tuning issues and I absolutely love the FRX. They are not cheap... but it's worth it! Palm muting takes some getting used to though. It changes the position of where your hand goes compared to a Tunomatic bridge. Also my action is perfect. The spring is super close to the top of the guitar but it has just enough space to not touch.

I like my action low aswell if you don’t mined what is your action at I’m not get it know just won’t to know how hi it makes it

The singer guitarist for the band INGROWN has an FRX on his walnut gibson sg, and I saw that guy go absolutely crazy with that trem, and he never tuned once. I wonder if the flat sg body is better? It sucks because I really want one of these for my 70s lotus les paul copy, but maybe the washburn one is better?

Your last video definitely deterred me from buying one I’ll be honest

Ok fair enough. It does add a layer of trem to the LP body, but its still a pita compared to the original floyd lol

Hope youre Video will help me later... I will do it youre way, hope i dont run into the exact same issues...😅

im about to buy a epiphone prophecy extura tiger purple and I'm going to put a Floyd Rose FRX on it to make for one bad ass explorer

You may not want to hear this, but.. Theres this new "business model" out there.. Where.. the manufacturer.. intentionally makes a "version 1" with flaws, and or lesser material designs ect. With the full knowledge that tue "version 2" will correct some, or most of the flaws. The end goal being.. They know guitarists get attached to single favorite guitars.. and they build that single favorite guitar.. So.. version one gets bought, installed, struggled with.. and then the manufacturer puts out the "version 2" that adverstises corrections from version 1 claiming to have "listened to you the guitarist" and "weve answered your call" The manufacturer sells 2 units.. per plan.. doubling their slaes and profits. You cant tell me they didnt do any research and development to build and design the version 1 and find a flaw such as "not staying in tune".. Theres no possible way.."staying in tune" wasnt a major consideration for a tremolo manufacturing and design company such as floyde rose.. Ya know what I mean? Washburn is a guitar company.. floyde rose is a tremolo company.. Presumably.. floyde rose would design the better product.. But. Universal fit.. can add some problems.. for a tremolo company.. I agree.. there are obviously some flaws /major issues.. But.. with those in mind.. I have to reason that "version 1" + "version 2" was the plan from the beginning..

いきなり、ため息はないな！

Put a set of Gotoh locking Tuners on it and a Tusq self Lubricating Nut and toss that ugly Lock Nut into you parts Box !!!

No it’s the Floyd hassle rose.

I hate those FRX Floyds heavy & ugly . Like you LP but I just my own opinion don't get the Triple Humbucker setup I cant see the benefits and takes away from the nice Look of the Guitar but if you dig it that's what counts .

Common sense tells me that any adaptor setup that requires a 3/16" - 1/4" plate on the guitar before attaching the tremolo, is going to interfere with low action capability. I think part of the reason to have a locking nut is due to the fact that the tremolo is marketed to players who use the tremolo in extreme, constant usage. If you only bend strings once in a while or use tremolo sparingly, the locking nut is not necessary. A tremolo without a locking nut is going to force the strings to move back and forth in the nut string slots. Extreme usage of the tremolo can eventually loosen the stock nut. If you put a pair of pliers on a regular nut and slightly try to wiggle it without trying to loosen the nut, it will still eventually break loose. Same principle as string movement at the nut can loosen the nut. So that is probably why this still has the nut support behind the nut, so that the nut won't loosen over heavy usage. My Strat has a Bladerunner tremolo and they actually suggest to put spacers under the string trees to lessen the string tension at the nut, to allow the strings to move back and forth in the nut easier, due to less string pressure upon the nut. I didn't like the higher string tree idea, so I moved both string trees further away from the nut, which lessens the string pressure at the nut also and you don't have to put spacers under the trees this way. Point is, this lessened string pressure at the nut also lessens the rocking motion against the nut by the strings. There is no locking nut with the Bladerunner and this supports my locking nut theory. On any guitar that has string trees, I believe you can move the string trees away from the nut to lessen the pressure at the nut, which would no longer require a locking nut. The only consideration in allowing the strings to move at the nut is that you are going to have to replace the nut more often. Like many things on a guitar, it is a trade-off that will be acceptable to some and not acceptable to others. A better nut will wear less in this scenario, but it will still wear. Not everyone can replace a nut more often, nor do they have the money to have it done.

I'm NEVER wrong. I'm right about everything 100% of the time