The Good, Bad and Ugly of Fuel and Oil Additives | Tech Tactics Live 

There are so many anecdotal opinions on the internet/ RU-vid. If you are a car guy, and you wanna respect someone with actual knowledge, Lake Speed Jr. is the Man !

This guy is a genius. I've seen him around a few different parts of the internet and he knows everything there is to know out there, it seems.

It’s ALL FACTUAL and that’s because Lake Speed is a man that loves or enjoys his job and he has expanded into more leanings or training from experience and backs himself up. He is a dying breed of man who cares to share his knowledge. THAT demands respect in my opinion.

Thanks to the Porsche Club for sharing this presentation. Getting granular helps push past marketing hype.

his presentation should've been longer also allow more time for questions and give them a microphone Having someone with his knowledge is priceless he is answering so many questions that I've had for many years

I love when I come across people so passionate in the things they do. This man is a wealth of knowledge, and has a great way of teaching. It’s hard to align all those things…. Thanks for sharing !

One of the best presentations on this subject I have ever heard.

Best RU-vid info with no BS! Thank you and keep up the good work 👍

Tip for Lake during question and answers - Repeat the question or at least summarize it for the listeners that can't hear the question asked. Most often you can guess what the question was based of the answer but not always.

That was incredibly insightful! Thank you Lake for helping us navigate the sea of marketing misinformation and thank you to the PCA for making this available to everyone.

Seeing the fuel dilution drop from 2.5 down to .93 just from a bottle of fuel treatment is so cool!

This guy was great. Thank you and thank you to PCA for being so awesome.

I worked for Mercedes Benz from 1970 to 1990 and they approved ONLY Techron for their fuel injection systems, back in 1980. Those lousy Single row timing chain 380 SL/SE/SEC engines had injector clogging. Techron cured rough idle, rough off idle, and restored injector spray patterns. Absolutely NO oil additives. And before synthetic oil, 15w/40 mineral oil was THE oil approved. All hail Lake Speed Jr. for spreading oil good will 🛢️💦👍🏆🏁

Always enjoy listening to Mr Speed. It would be helpful to hear the questions more clearly.

*PCA, thank you for bringing the genius and passion of Lake Speed to the attention of those who may be unfamiliar with him. For those interested and aside from his Motor Oil Geeking (Tribology), Lake also has a major presence on Total Seal's Piston Rings channel. Worth a look. Cheers!*

Fuel additives might be ok for Port Fuel Injected engines, but not GDI engines. The Redline fuel treatment showed in the video, cleaned a small spot at the point of the GDI spray on top of the piston. The cheap base carrier oil makes up 90% of the cleaner, oxidizes quickly and leaves a black, carboneous, gummy residue in the chamber. This means problems for the valves, when reversion occurs and really bad for compression and oil control rings. I have borescope images before and after, showing this problem. I had another friend do the same, in his GDI engines. Borescope images were the same.

Really enjoyed this lecture. It was fun!!! Next time, just give a microphone to the audience asking questions. Congrats and thanks to the organizers as well.

Thanks for having time for us

I am the guy who toldyou not to be close to the camera ,you are the man.God speed to you.

Always great info, but please, please mic up the audience if they're throwing questions!

My only suggestion would be to repeat the crowd questions in the mic, or let them ask the questions in a mic.

He blinded me with science!

Mobil came out with a PAO synthetic aircraft engine oil in the late 80s, Mobil AV1. Aviation oils have to cope with lead combustion products from leaded Avgas and keep them in suspension. AV1 was supposed to have an additive package to do this. As it turned out, the PAO molecule is so slick compared to a mineral one (like a spaghetti noodle vs a piece of fuzzy yarn) it could not support the dispersant package and thus could not hold lead oxides in suspension. A "lead paint" crisis ensued, as lead settled out of the oil and coated the internals in a paint like hard coating, as well as sludging up oil galleries. Some engine failures resulted. Big class action lawsuit in the 90s and AV1 was withdrawn. The only PAO synthetic aviation oil is an Shell product, Aeroshell 15W50, that is half PAO and half mineral, enough to hold lead byproducts. The PAO component gives it a multigrade rating of 15W50 without VI improvers. Probably the best aviation oil out there. I use it. I run auto gas in my plane and if a full PAO synthetic was available, I'd use that.

Not gonna lie.. little triggered with the Ceratec image lol and then the BMW, liquimoly engine flush and Ceratec example.. I was like dude how’d you know all that about me😂

I really enjoy the videos this guy has been making and posting.

Thanks! Simple takeaway for engine oil use the right one and change out a bit more frequently than manufacturers recommendation, all additives and flushes are basically not necessary then. However, do consider using good quality all fuel. System cleaner.

Please have the speakers repeat the questions in the future - they are inaudible.

I’ve used oil tested my diesel truck. Amsoil oil with ceratec additive. 6 oil changes and 60,000 miles. Never anything negative.

Most people have no clue how smart that man is! An absolute genius with his craft!

Great info! Wish we could hear the questions of the Q&A portion tho.

I just use what Porsche recommends: Mobil1. I have a 991.2.

Just a correction to something Lake said at 46 min. The ESP X3 is not the same as Supercar and not the same as the GM oil. ESP Formula 0W-40 was the GM oil that was rebranded Supercar 0W-40. ESP X3 is different and was designed by a separate group in a Porsche-sponsored program despite the fact that it does carry GM Dexos2 approval. I am sure they are somewhat similar oils but ESP X3 has higher HTHS and a different additive package.

Speaking of ZDDP, some years ago I had discovered I had a flat tappet lifter that had too fast of a leak down rate and would cause a miss at lower engine speeds, I thought that was a good reason to change the cam and install all new lifters since I assumed the factory 350 GM cam would have wear but I think that just caused me to go down a bad rabbit hole as the factory cam was in perfect condition. So it was a comp cam I put in and they pushed their own ZDDP additive for flat tappet cams they sell. Well I started using the additive as directed and I will never know if it was that or just engine wear that ultimately caused a lower connecting rod bearing to fail and that was the end of that engine. I never did pull the comp camp to see what it looked like but had pulled the crank and con rod caps to inspect, other than the one that went to crap and had to wonder why the bearings looked as questionable as they did. I have refrained from ever using the rest of the ZDDP I had bought, however I have been using half the bottle of GM lifter additive ( so half the volume they call for ) at each oil change after installing a brand new engine from GM and should I be ... good question, its been running fine and may very well without putting the GM additive in.

48:30 is the advice 99% of us need. Match the spec and viscosity called for by the factory. If you're in the 1% that wants to spend a lot more money, probably defeating the point of avoiding engine repair costs, then do oil analysis throughout the life of the engine.

I used a diesel fuel cleaner in my car one time and it was a big improvement better than any I've used they carry it at love's. For my 1997 s10 220,000.still running good with 40 psi oil preasure mostly i used mobile 1.and i have tryed to not go over 2000 to 2500miles at oil changes long block all original un touched. had to put intake gaskets on it .at 6 years old .the key is to let the gray permatex.(Japanese)sealer.let it setup then put on intake on tork.let it dry 24 hours before filling.than it last a long time.i had the dealer do it once but it leaked the next day.he was too fast not time to setup and harden before hardening.his second fix lasted only 3 years had to do it my self.10 years later still no leaks.the leak is at the front .the 4.3 l v6.very dependable motor for a domestic. the trans need oil changes often and kevlar frictions plates.

Great video Lake, easy to follow and very informative.

I watched another presentation where Ceratec was considered "OK". Now it is on "bad" list. I have been using Porsche Classic 20W60 and it does not have Moly. My prev owner used 15w-45 Mobile 1. The chain cover was leaking some. I switched to Porsche Classic 20w-60 about 60K miles and 4 years ago and the oil leak has slowed down to a drop or two in a week. Apparently, Porsche classic contains "seal restore". MY 97 993 reached 120K recently, and it has been reliable. I like the idea of how moly works in an engine and started using Ceratec about 6K ago. I used the 2nd time after 5K miles oil change. I am wondering if adding Ceratec to Porsche 20W60 is a good idea.

Engine flush should not have been combined with Ceratec. He should have tested Ceratec alone.

need an executive summary. good stuff though. i do send my oil samples for analysis, but i think once a year is good enough (considering in my track cars i change 2-3 times per year).

Someone asked about fuel systems cleaners, but I couldn’t understand. Did Lake say use fuel system cleaners once a year even if you always fill up with Top Tier gas (Shell premium)?

Man this was such a nice treat on a Sunday morning 👌🙃😁

Thank you for sharing this video for all of the internet to see

You knows he’s honest when he says he hates oil marketing

Why doesn't any tester ever go over the BG additives? Good luck finding it, I would love to see it.

Thank you Lake. Great presentation. My only question is the Ceratec was never tested alone. It was mixed w a flush which of course nullified any benefit of the ceratec. I would love to see how 'only' ceratec w the boron, Moly, small amount of zddp and calcium does mixed w a good oil and the the resulting wear metals. I am not a believer in additives either or trying to promote ceratec at all. But it does seem like that formulation (in ceratec) could' maybe' b an exception and help. But that is speculation not science. I would love to see a fair test w ceratec alone (mixed w a good oil) and look at wear metals and acidity/etc. Whatever the result is, is fine... But that's the only way to know. That's a fair question and scientific diagnostic thought process isnt it? I would really bet that if u did the wear metal test with just that liquid Moly flush... It would have come back w negative results. My guess is that it wasn't the ceratec that caused that. But maybe I'm wrong. Anyways... Just wanted to run that by u. I'm trying to b fair in my thinking and scientific w careful control groups and variables. Thanks Lake!

I use Archoil in all my vehicles, one of which is a 911. I had a screeching coming from the engine. Intermittent. Started using Archoil additive and the sound went away. My cars crank over faster and get gas mileage higher than what is listed as usual for said car.

Good presentation, but really nothing here for those with air cooled engines. I've been running VR1 high zinc formula because it is reportedly better for my engine, but I was hoping for some info that would help with testing that idea.

Presenter should always repeat the questions from the unamplified audience.

Thanks but it would have been helpful if we could hear the questions from the audience.

My mother worked at Southwest Research back in the early 70s.

Lake, you say not to put additives in oil especially those “Nano” type but right on Driven oils website they mention Nano technology. I’m confused 🤷‍♂️🤣🤣🤣.

2-4% Mos2 to the oil in old engines is fine Army does the same

Do you do oil analysis for the common man? If so, what’s the process. We own a 2011 Corolla with 180,000 miles and a 2014 Forester with 110,000. I’m curious about the oil after listening to this podcast

Imagine how all the university qualified chemists must feel. It's probably the same as how Steve Wozniak felt when he had to watch Steve Jobs.

I’ve been doing everything Lake said not to do :(

Maybe I missed it. Was the Techron MARINE Fuel System Treatment the one recommended from Chevron? In other words did Lake expand on why the Marine version was included?

Great presentation and very informative! Thanks for doing this!

Good stuff!

I had a chemical flush guy come to our shop and try to sell engine flush. I told him that the one and only time that i used an engine flush on a 100k engine, it spun a bearing within 10k miles. He said because if the 10k, it wasn't due to the flush. I believe otherwise.

Man I was hoping he was going to test a car with mystic marvel in the oil.

Great video and information, is there a difference between the 10oz and 12oz Gumout all in one?

Shell makes synthetic based oils via ownership of Pennzoil that synthesizes oils from natural gas. I find it very odd that he does not mention this as in other videos he has good things to say about Pennzoil. Those companies are NOT the only four that make synthetis oils! He should have mentioned Shell!

FYI Petronas Malaysia makes their own base oil and additive

I have what I hope is a simple question. I am a firm believer in more oil changes more often than what may be given by the manufacturer. The thing I’m interested in is there any downside to oil changes to earlier than recommended like say three to four thousand miles when the oil is able to go ten or so thousand and when with recycling oil and cost is not an issue.

So the final verdict is that Cera Tec is bad for your engine? The answer was not clear in the presentation?

Im guessing Marval Mystery oil treatment is a no go for oil? Even a half a once. I drive a 2000 infiniti i30 she runs great. Little over 285,000 miles.

OK, I could use some clarity here. At 30:47 minutes in, Lake presents an example of a BMW engine that showed good results using Liqui Moly 5w40, then shows a follow up where the owner used Liqui Moly 5w40 + Ceratec + LM Engine Flush. Lake states the three components were used at the SAME TIME (30:54). Is that correct? Read the bottle much? The flush is only used for 10-15 minutes at idle just before being removed with the old oil before an oil change. Did the BMW owner specify if they changed out the old oil with the engine flush in it? Did they do a proper oil change and add the Ceratec only with fresh oil? Of course the numbers and wear will jump significantly if the engine flush is still in there. Lake - will you please clarify? And great presentation! Thx!

Ive been reading all my oil labels. Seems the Super Tech from Walmart advanced full synthetic checks all the boxes

Sorry about the Tardy comment. This video just came to my attention. In response to the guy's question about Walmart oil, you pulled up your 3-supplier chart again. Of PAO. I'd be tempted to be my pension that the Walmart "Super Tech" brand and Costco's Kirland brand "synthetic", both made by Warren, are Group III dinosaur oil and probably not from one of those three PAO suppliers. Would I lose that bet? I have yet to hear to discuss that topic. Maybe it will come up in your upcoming second Q & A session? Looking forward to it.

Great video! Thanks for posting and sharing.👍

Awesome vid !

Was wondering if I should switch to using an engine flush before changing the oil, as my friend mechanic advised. Seems like it's not such a good idea!

Well done. Thank you.

I had a beloved ford ranger I bought new, about 50 thousand miles in I decided to start using mobile 1 oil, it leaked oil like crazy after that

geat tip on SP for low speed det!! THANK YOU!!

I have known that General Motors oil life monitors are superior. One of the few things General Motors actually makes that are superior. The problem I have with General Motors is I've taken apart several LS motors, and when you have an average ring gap of 30,000. That is way too large of a gap. Your oil is not going to last very long and you're going to lose a lot of it. There's no reason why a 5.3 or a 6.0 should have anything larger than an .018 to 0.020 ring Gap. Total seal Rings would help tremendously. But that top ring still needs a much tighter gap. They do it for the fact that they're making these engines by the thousands. But if you can make it in 30 thou by the thousands, you can make it in 20 thou by the thousands. In addition, you made the comment on another video that fr3 did not do anything but to thin the oil. And the reason I have used very minimal amounts of fr3 a couple of times is precisely because Gale Banks has found that it offers less parasitic drag in the application of adding to your differential oil. What did Gale Banks miss. Exactly what is in fr3. Something you did not tell us. Is it only a very thin base oil or is there something actually in it that provides some sort of a service to the oil. And what about the additive link kite which is used in almost all aircraft internal combustion applications, and has been known to work for years. And that is what we now call zMAX. What does zMAX actually do. According to my understanding it actually soaks into the metal and helps keep carbon from sticking and keeps it soluble so that it can be rinsed out of the engine. Which should, reduce wear?

Must watch!!!

Is there a benefit of using pea fuel additives in a more concentrated dose than recommended?

Priceless!

Thank you for posting this excellent presentation. I leave choice of oil in my 991 Turbo S to the technicians in the workshop at the Porsche Centre. Owning a 2000 BMW E39 M5 the choice of oil to suit its S62 V8 engine is a hard one. The MARKETING people at Castrol keep changing the formula of their 10W60 ‘Racing spec’ engine oil. My BMW specialist simply uses Mobil1 10W60 performance engine oil. I would appreciate receiving some advice! (Which I am willing to pay for)

Wow, awesome stuff here.

What about bg 44 injecter cleaner?

I'm wondering if Redline 0w40 which has an extreme additive package, including high-calcium, is too extreme for a (m278) Mercedes V8 bi-turbo, even with this engine specifies API (SN) oil. My understanding is that the low speed pre-ignition issues common in direct injection engines, actually affects the (low displacement) turbo engines, such as the 4 cylinder varieties.

if a company like liqui moly or total like to get an oem approval like vw 502 ...they need to pay 5 to 10 millions dollars or thay pickup the additive from infeniem without paying ??? please clear for as this situation !!!

Great presentation! What is your opinion on Stabil?

Sir: What's your take on Berryman's B-12 Chemtool?!

Quite the mystery!

I am tracking him from video to another to learn from him real world stuff

Lake Speed jr!

I use Liquimoly TopTec 5w30 in a MK7 1.8TSI which is 502...I switched at 90k from 5w40 and Castrol to try and get to the 504.00, SP and newers standards like 229.52 which is mid-saps for GPF...I haven't done an oil analysis, but I'm curious beyond the marketing is it good oil? No issues by the way and consumption appears minimal if any...5k changes since 65k and about to cross 114k miles.

Any recommendations for a fuel additive for diesel?

Is it best to choose an oil and stick with it for the life of the vehicle?

7:14 7:18 LAC = *_Least Additive Concentration_*

He has a YT channel!!!

Never play the chemistry that you only knew a little.

Is pro lube good ?

Don't use the electronic lazer pointer. It moves too fast, is irritating, and detracts from what the speaker is saying. contact me and I can explain why. GB

I didn't see any comments on Teflon.

My car takes just over 5L of oil so I often top it off with another brand and now im worried im adding extra wear. Would 600ml of mobil 1 0w40 mixed with 5L of Pennzoil platinum 5w30 compromise the additive pack? Going to pick up an additional quart of matching oil next time.

Funny how he fails to mention that "Driven" oils have less film strength than many off the shelf Walmart oils. Seems to think that ZDDP makes any oil a winner. I agree a additive package makes or breaks any oil...not the amount of ZDDP. These are provable and repeatable tests. Likes to tout used oil samples, but has never addressed the fact that ZDDP depletion rates are miniscule in used oil samples. Kind of tells the tale on the continuing ZDDP myth. Measured film strength for Driven oils range from 47,000 t0 104,000 psi and are bested greatly by a boatload of other widely available and cheaper priced oils. Driven "break-in" oils are particularly weak even among other manufacturers similar offerings.