Watched hundreds of videos and you are the only one who showed how the corners go together especially with R (foam) sheathing. Very informative and you even gave a visual computer representation and measurements. A must watch for anyone considering using R sheathing on how to frame the layout and corners. Thank you very much for this video. It greatly expanded my understanding.
Appreciate you taking the time to make these videos! Especially for us DIYers who don't have the experience of doing multiple jobs with a product, seeing how the pros do it and learning from your experiences and what you do helps so much! Bonus, like some said, is knowing the why, or seeing some of the techniques since there's always a few ways to do things. Thank you.
Pleasant banter. Succinct and fact-loaded. Even as excellent camera angles and post production. Natural born teachers like us are few and far between. Great crew makes you shine!! We spend months looking for folks like you!
Some of the most informative videos about building I’ve seen since Larry Hahn was around. Please Keep it up. A lot of people make videos about building, but the ones who can explain “the why” are the ones to watch! Thanks for the info
@@AwesomeFramers I've traveled all across this country and seen them sheath after the walls/studs were raised. I've seen this in Florida, Arizona, California and many other states out west to down south. I agree with you we've been do it our way since 60's.
A nice throwback video to include Shane! Another excellent video as usual. Love seeing the max high pressure nailer! Had the first chance to use mine for 75 sheets of advantech sheathing. What a pleasure it was to use.
Nice - videos from pros. I'm shocked at how few people install sheathing while the wall is on the deck. You can square it first, install the sheathing and the wall stays square when you tip it up. Seeing videos of people climbing ladders with a 4x8 sheet...[shakes head]. The corner details are good info too. Thxs.
Hi guys love your vid’s. We have been using R-12 zip for walls on this development. We have noticed that the width of the sheets are 1/8 short of 48” and varying sheets are 1/8 short on the length. We have told the suppliers to see what they say. But on long walls we start running off layout quick. Have you guys noticed this? Oh ya we are in northern VT. I’m not sure why we are using the R-12 it’s the developer’s choice,but we use a Big Bertha 4 1/8 spiral ring shank nail. But we noticed we are the only contractors in the development also using longer nails around windows. Thanks and I appreciate you guys!
I know the panels are supposed to be "sized for spacing" meaning they are slightly less than 48" x 96" which allows for the sheets to be gapped. Are you gapping the sheets? Thanks for the kinds words, try to stay warm up there 😁😁
Your voice over ... and production of vids is absolutely beyond the Universe. It has been overly impressive how great these vids are and seeing the build. Can't wait for more subscribers to discover the greatness here. CHEERS! Amazing!
This will be a more common practice when the IECC becomes more widely enforced in cold climates. This with a flash and batt of 2x4 bay rockwool is a killer assembly. I'm in zone 6 so we ran the r-12 with the 2" of close cell and then filled our 2x6 framing bays with 2x4 rockwool. Nice vid.
You forgot to mention nail spacing requirements. I don’t know the exact requirements, but I do know that the thicker the foam, the closer the nails need to be to get the shear strength. Great video though. I learn a little more each time you make one. Thanks.
That’s the one thing that worries me about this sheathing. Having a decent part of the nail basically unsupported and without ply-stud friction means there will be a lot more movement of the nail, and even with smaller nail spacing there could be failures in the long term.
@@PrebleStreetRecordsthe shear properties are absolutely changed if you’re adding Zip R. No two ways about it. Nailing schedule, fastener type, details should all be reviewed if you are changing from solid sheathing on stamped plans.
You don't truly know if something is idiot proof until you've had me try it. I really like your videos, they are very well done, entertaining and informative. I used to frame in my formative years, now I'm mostly remodeling and additions, would be fun to work with you guys I think.
Great video, idk if its just me having ocd but im gonna do just about everything the same on my project except im going to fill all the joints with chalking. Probably overkill but i would just feel that tiny ampunt better knowing it was all chalked in before taped
So in real life living with my house being built like this. After several years of being hit by high winds. The panels work loose around the nails, and now the siding needs to be removed and proper wood sheathing be put on.
I've never used Zip System sheathing. It looks pretty good, but I still believe the added 'flashing layer ' of Tyvek has a lot of benefits. Especially with what we now know about water infiltration and the rain screen methods developed from that information. What are your thoughts on that?
Would love to see this system applied to a retrofit. I have 2x4 wall currently and would like to add this to the outside when I reside my home. Now I understand I would need extension jams for my windows but they would all be replaced at the same time as my siding.
I installed zip r-6 on my 2x4 walls last year. House was build in early 1970, so insulation inside the walls was poor. Since you are opening the wall cavity, You basically have 2 options. Add 2inch strips to make the wall thicker (2x6) if you are planning on replacing all windows, or use zip r3. I didn’t replace the windows but I had 2 old layers of sheathing to remove, so the windows was not a problem. I removed old tho foam insulation from walls and installed mineral wool Rockwool (rodents don’t like it and better R value than rolled insulation) in wall cavity and finished wall with composite siding. Thermal comfort in the house is much better. Definitely can recommend.
One thing that I do at the corners is tape 2” wider than my corner boards so if my caulk joint fails into the future the water is met with tape and not sheathing.
they make 6" zip flashing tape and flex tape that i would recommend for outer corners of buildings. building a 40x60 shed myself right now and installing zip and the wider tape works much better on those corners. prevents need for overlapping layers and has one continuous piece from top to bottom in what i consider to be a critical exterior detail.
So I am getting ready to build a small retirement cottage here in CT. Do I use ICF, SIP's, stick built? I'm on the side stick/w the fact of eliminating thermal bridging. I've read way to much on all of this though and I am still just a bit confused. My question is when adding the exterior R factor does this or doesn't it move the dew point where it can collect moisture in the wall cavity? Isn't there factors to take into consideration when choosing the foam thickness? I sure would like to know! Thanks
Has anyone else had issues with the foam being pressed down by the nails and having uneven seams? My company is using this system for the first time and we've ran into this issue a few times on this build regardless of nail depth
Nice video Tim. I learned some things. I wonder.. does Huber make a tape with release paper that can be split lengthwise. Sure would make inside corners easier. Maybe outside corners also.
should the bottom of the panel be sealed with tape? You answered my question at the end, thanks. Is there a siding video that shows how the bottom is dealt with?
Only one stupid question. On the lower part of the side wall(time: 5.03 and 9:39), you have 2 ft pieces which seem to be about an inch below the vertical pieces. How big is this gap and is it filled with expanded foam or some type of insulated sealant, prior to taping? Thank you...
What CAD program is that? Amazing vids, your sense of humor only outdone by your skills! :-P Never mind found your answer on another comment (Sketchup) Thanks!
When you put up your corner cladding, over the lap siding, AND over ZIP-R, is there anything special you have to do? Get wider corner trim, for example?
@@AwesomeFramers I just ran across your channel. It looks like your putting out some good content. We are starting and ICF high performance home and shop build soon in SC. We decided ICFs because even though it's a little more pricey. Once we factor in the additional strength, thermal bridge, water and vapor properties it is coming in comparable to lumber. Nonetheless Cutting-edge homes and up to Kode both have good ICF channels if you're interested. Keep up the good work 💪
On an outside corner where do you get that extra 1and 7/16" for the second panel since the panels only come in 48" wide and studs are spaced 16" apart. What is the opposite end of that second panel fastened to since its displaced 1 and 7/16" and won't be covering a stud?
How do you address that the Zip R panel will be proud of the bottom plate? For example Zip R-6 will be one inch proud of the bottom plate. How do you address that 1" exposed polyiso at the bottom?
Thanks for reply. Other videos have promoted adding a strip of PT lumber covering the exposed foam at the bottom as bugs/rodents maybe able to burrow in if the barrier is just tape. Then once the lumber strip is added use tape such as Siga fentrim to cover the entire junction including the zip, lumber, and concrete basement for airtight seal. @@AwesomeFramers
@@tamil1001 Yep, this was over a crawlspace. The house we are currently working , we'll use Fentrim. I'm working on an updated video to this one as we speak. Regarding bugs/rodents, this is not a problem in our area. I'm not sure its actually a problem in other areas.
From your experience building single family homes which system is more affordable; ZIPsystems or Tyvek? I do take into account the time savings ZIPsystems provides, but if someone is doing a build themselves what would you recommend?
What about miter cutting at 45° the edge of the sheet when you are installing at corners ? Will it make sense or it’s too time consuming compared to just burn one inch by overlapping the sheet?
The layout shown results in a full thickness of insulation as well as a shorter joint compared to a 45 degree joint. More work is not always more better.
Does anyone have any actual numbers on this Thermal Bridging crisis. I'm still waiting for the Arctic to melt. I'm sure there is some. But All Thet Cold isn't coming through stud lumber. All Houses are just oddly shaped Chimneys. And they act like them. Foam the walls, minimum 2" then use aluminum double bubble across the interior side of the studs. You can do that on the outside too. It reflects heat. Rated R-19. The Secret sauce is to treat it like your zip sheets and tape it off. Everywhere. You want a continuous envelope. You will also need at least one air exchanger. Happy nailing. And don't at me I've done this and it works.
www.makitatools.com/products/details/194367-7 No need for a clamp, it has friction tape on the underside. I was skeptical at first but it works really well
Nice video! How do you prevent thermal bridging on the inside corner? The foam isn't continuous at that corner. On the outside corner, both sheets of Zip-R overlap on the foam.
If the inside corner stud for the second sheet is offset from the OSB of the first sheet (or flush to the edge) and the cavity is insulated, there would be no bridging through the depth of the stud cavity, amirite?
My only question I've wondered since my dad used zip r on his detached workshop in Minnesota. Because of the foam between the shear panel and framing does this result in less shear strength compared to shear panel tight against framing? My point the length of nail through the foam is subject to bending as the framed wall encounters forces causing racking and I predict the bending in the nails causes the shear panels to move with the forces more than it would with the shear tight against framing. Which could actually be an advantage in resisting seismic forces as the structure could possibly absorb the forces more so than if ridgid. I'm absolutely not talking down on zip r as I think it's a great product just wondering your thoughts on the topic or if you've seen test results between zip and zip r and if there is a discrepancy in shear values.
They are in B.C. which is in the ring of fire/high seismicity. His reference to his engineer's spec for the nail length leads me to believe that they are ahead of it on their seismic engineering.
I'm in a seismic zone in B.C. I'd have to consult an engineer about shear/seismic, but I'm also in a coastal temperate rainforest and we cannot put a vapor barrier on the cold side of an opaque wall assembly, so to utilize this product I'd have to go with a fully external insulation system and leave the stud cavity hollow. I suspect every climactic zone is different but might be worth looking into for you're region.
I see alot of the videos use newer building technologies. I'm in a very remote area so things like this scare people, which makes me mad. I want to use better products. So my question is this...cost wise, is it better to use the panel and insulation Batts inside, or just use regular 7/16s with a spray foam inside?
IN THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS THIS NEED TO BE INSTALL ON THE TOP OF THE PLYWOOD SHITTING.. IN MY OPINION AS A PROFESSIONAL CARPENTER THIS CAN NOT BE A STRUCTURAL HOUSE PART BECAUSE. THE EPS WILL GIVE THE GAP TO THE HOUSE BE UNLEVEL ( SHAKE) WITH HARD WIND . SEE THIS OLD HOUSE PROGRAMME ABOUT THAT
Could you clarify why you lap 3” specifically on the inside corner? Is that suggested by Huber? Wouldn’t there be a chemical seal on pressure that would prevent vapor? Thanks!
Hey Eric, great questions. The lap on the tape is a Huber requirement for tape to tape connection its shown in the video here www.huberwood.com/zip-system/insulated-r-sheathing#about
Hi Gary, I thought I addressed that in the section of the video where I tape the bottom. I probably could have been clearer. Yes, it sticks out past the mudsill. In my view this is a non issue in that no one will notice it, the siding extends 1 1/2" below it and final landscaping must be 6" or more below the siding according to the code.
@@AwesomeFramers I see. I built my place 20+ years ago using home made zip system, since it wasn't available then, using 1" celotex insulation between the sheathing and the framing. Same thing at the sill. The issue that has developed over time is that I have had mice chew through the insulation as it isn't protected. I wish I'd framed it so that only the sheathing was proud of the concrete and not the insulation. Live and learn!
Given Zip is an OSB product that created a good airtight assembly, aren’t their concerns for lack of vapor diffusion through the assembly? Or is the baseline assumption they’re going hardcore with dehumidification?
I'm not an expert on this. I know that vapor diffusion isn't an issue in our climate with this thickness of foam. I would imagine that in humid climates the wall design would done in conjunction with the mechanical design. For example down south where ac is common, that will dehumidify. Good question, I just don't know and each location has its own variables to take into consideration. We are climate zone 4c and it is very forgiving here.
@@AwesomeFramers Rad response. In our climate 4c my guess is Zip/OSB poses the greatest risk for roof sheathing. Not so much in vented attic scenarios, but more so in conditioned attic scenarios where vapor diffusion can’t occur because of Zip/OSB. The issue further compounds if the roofer uses a non-permeable WRB. For wall cavities in climate 4c I think the greatest risk is super hot summers in scenarios where cold air conditioning exists in the home. This can create wall cavity condensation if insulation thickness isn’t calculated correctly. Zip r-sheathing can trap that condensation…OR prevent the condensation altogether if the foam is thick enough. That said, using products like T-stud would completely solve this issue at the walls.
I see you use a lot of avantech floor sheathing. How does weyerhaeuser edge gold stack up to it? And where do you get your advantech from? I'm up near Tacoma and all the yards I've checked nobody stocks it.
Weyerhauser Edge Gold holds up extremely well. We've used that for nearly 20 years and never had a complaint with it. I order through Arrow Lumber and I believe they usually get the Huber products through IWP. You're right, it often isn't a stock item at the lumberyard, but its usually next day from the distributor.
@@AwesomeFramers idk if you're age is about what it looks 35ish you'd have to miss 1087 things that are obvious per minute... you'd need Everlasting life to become a billionaire that way!
All the building science stuff tells you that you should have a layer of insulation on the exterior of the sheathing so that the sheathing isn't the condensing surface for any warm, moist air that escapes from your house. What are your thoughts and experience with this?
Let me say first off that I'm not an expert on this at all. My understanding is that it doesn't matter in most climates because of the thickness of the foam. In other words at R3 and up it won't condense because there is enough insulation. I know there is a lot of testing that goes into these products and consulting from the big names in the industry. I'll ask Christine over at www.buildingsciencefightclub.com/bundles/building-science-for-architects
Oh there's so much to this. Huber has even said it's absolute best to have the insulation over the OSB, but in terms of ease of trim, cladding, etc and builder familiarity, their compromise was foam behind the OSB. There's an old Building Science article from, I really want to say Peter Straub, that even up to Climate Zone 4, the minimum R-5 insulation can still lead to several thousand hours a year of potential sheathing condensation, unless you also used closed cell spray foam on the interior. The recommendation was a 50/50 split of interior/exterior insulation without closed cell. For condensation, the biggest takeaway I've gotten is keep the air from your house getting through to the sheathing, and let any exterior water that hits your sheathing drain and let the sheathing seasonally dry. But good god, the zip R is ungodly expensive per square foot anyway. Here it's still cheaper to get regular Zip, then stick up to 1.5" of foam or Rockwool over that and it's still cheaper, even accounting for the screws.
The taping doesn't create "R-Value" but rather contributes to the air tightness of the home. That directly affects the performance of the home. instagram.com/p/B11ASZ7gXxF/
You forgot to mention how obnoxiously heavy a sheet of zip r6 is….dear god when I get to a new job and see a bunk on site I can hear my spine start to compress
Zip -R is nice stuff, buts its just to expensive. Around here, all high-end homes are wrapped in Tyvek and spray foam the walls. Until Hubers patent on Zip runs out it, will be out of reach for the masses.
@@AwesomeFramers ya know our solution? we bought a spray foam rig! haha...... literally bought it off ebay. there was a fire in the triler it was in, and insurance replaced theirs so we got it for 5k. we have a deepsea engineer on our crew, he wired it up to single phase, and we were in business. about 2k$ for 3000 BF of closed cell. we need it up here in maine. 17 below zero next tuesday!
@@timothydillon6421 They do and they are being sued for patent infringement. They started selling that 10+ years after Zip came to the market. www.prosalesmagazine.com/news/manufacturers/huber-engineered-woods-files-a-patent-infringement-lawsuit-against-lp-building-solutions_o
SO WHY IS THE SHEATHING APPLIED PARALLEL TO THE STUDS? (SEAM ON SEAM) HARDER TO INSTALL, AND IS MUCH WEAKER STRUCTURALLY.ESPECIALLY AROUND DOORS AND WINDOWS. WHY NOT LOCK IN THE GOODNESS?
Hey Barny, that's actually a common misunderstanding. The edge nailing of the panels is what provides most of the lateral resistance. Installing them vertically is stronger than horizontal for shear loads because all the panel edges are blocked. Most people that install horizontally don't block all those seams and the wall is stronger. Page 17 here www.huberwood.com/uploads/documents/technical/literature/ZIP-System-Sheathing-and-Tape-Installation-Manual.pdf
I see a lot of zip and zip-R on RU-vid but have never seen it on any house construction project. I suspect a lot of videobloggers get this stuff for free
What an outstanding line of "reasoning". Have you been to all jobsites everywhere? Why is it stocked at distributors across the country? How does Huber stay in business?
@@AwesomeFramers Driving by residential sites near where I live I have never seen it anywhere. Not in stocks in store at any Lowes nor Home Depot I've ever been to. And no, I have not been to every jobsite, nor have you.
@@10tenman10 😂😂😂 so your conclusions are based on practically zero actual facts. I'm impressed. I personally know many people who use and pay for Zip products including us. So your entire premise is flawed and a waste of time.
@@10tenman10 dude, seriously? Ok here's the point I'm making. You are making a sweeping claim based on extremely limited personal experience. That only proves your experience is very limited. You cited that 2 local to you, big box stores don't stock it. Means nothing, they stock it here. A simple Google search will show you that it can be ordered through those stores. Additionally here I can order it from all lumberyards because it's stocked at the major distributors. Driving through Washington and Oregon I've seen it on residential and multifamily. So to reiterate, your personal experience is too limited to draw an accurate conclusion. If you live in Canada, you won't see it because it's not distributed there.
WHY ARE YOU EVEN USING 2X6 STUDS? THE THERMAL BRIDGING IS TERRIBLE.. USE TWO 2X4s WITH A GAP BETWEEN THEM . . I MEAN IF YOU ARE DOING ALL THIS BECAUSE OF THERMAL BRIDGING WOULDNT YOU WANT TO REDUCE THERMAL BRIDGING ON THE WALL STUDS TOO? ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE BUILDING FROM SCRATCH..
